 Joined: 16/08/2014(UTC) Posts: 619 Location: Aylesbury, Buckinghamshire
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Hi,
What do people do with regards to clips for holding underboard wires and also how do you label wires? (Do you label them?)
Thanks |
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Modelling west Denmark era IV - possibly with some out-of-place elements!
Marklin C-track + CS3+
12m2 layout to be controlled by RocRail |
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 Joined: 17/04/2003(UTC) Posts: 997 Location: Netherlands
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Hi, I use a staple gun on low power setting to avoid piercing the insulation.  I don't label the wires, just the relevant connection points Best regards, Gregor
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 1 user liked this useful post by Gregor
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Joined: 01/06/2016(UTC)
Posts: 2,465
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Originally Posted by: morsing  Hi,
What do people do with regards to clips for holding underboard wires and also how do you label wires? (Do you label them?)
Thanks 40, 50 years ago we used cramps to connect the cables to the wooden plate. Today are easier fixing systems available. Of course you should label all your cables and never forget to keep in line with the defined cable colours of Maerklin. Makes life easier searching faults in the electric. https://www.maerklin.de/.../MM_Verkabelung_2013.pdfusage of the Maerklin colour scheme https://www.maerklin.de/...faq/Technik-Tipp-102.pdfEven you do not speak German, you understand the pictures and cabling plans in the articles too.
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 Joined: 10/02/2006(UTC) Posts: 3,997
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I typically do not label the wires. They are color coded, and I mark where the boundaries are between booster sections.
Each S88 module is numbered so I see no point of labeling the wire plugged into port 5 of s88 module 4. It can only be s88 #53 (4-1)*16 + 5
I do give a letter to each big bundle of s88 sensor wires.
Similarly k83 wires come from a numbered port on a k83 module, either red or green.
I like to have some slack in the wires so that whatever they are connected to can be lifted if needed, and that gets in the way of neat clipping into place, so the end points do look a bit jumbled.
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Joined: 15/10/2006(UTC) Posts: 2,319 Location: Washington, Pacific Northwest
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Some of the module builders I've watched use dabs of hot-glue to attache and route the wires under the layout bottoms. Others use the affordable book spine combs as conduit, others still use proper electrical conduit channels with lids, eg for areas exposed visibly.
For labeling color code on wires is a key first step. Then you can use a black marker to add lines/ticks to differentiate different wires in a same color bundle, or use tape labels or shrink tube printed with labels.
Like many things in life, what you do depends in part on what you are willing to spend, what you get some enjoyment out of doing generally, how much in life you have had to debug a wiring system and the mark it left on you.... |
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Joined: 12/08/2006(UTC)
Posts: 9,273
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I use copper wires at 0,75 mm square for the digital system while analog i use between 0,14-0,25 mm square.
Of course with difference color too.
There is a lot of variation to connect the wires.
With the digital i use clips to feed digital system by split it. |
H0
DCC = Digital Command Control
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Joined: 16/08/2014(UTC) Posts: 619 Location: Aylesbury, Buckinghamshire
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Ok, thanks.
Colour coded wires are out the door. I have randomised green/red/blue/brown wires on all the tracks and it's too late to change now.
Stapling, yeah, just not easy if you want to move or replace cables. Hot glue, my experience is it's very weak and the wires will probably fall off.
Hmm... I will have a think.
I've spent most of my life debugging wiring on my old cars, so that part doesn't scare me.
Thank |
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Modelling west Denmark era IV - possibly with some out-of-place elements!
Marklin C-track + CS3+
12m2 layout to be controlled by RocRail |
1 user liked this useful post by morsing
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 Joined: 03/08/2011(UTC) Posts: 1,571
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If you are using a wooden frame work for your baseboard you can simply drill holes through the horizontal frames for the wire bus. For my s88 feedback cables, lots of them, i have bought cable trunks with self adhesive tape that runs underneath the base board. I also uses these types of cable clips: https://www.amazon.co.uk...ent-Holder/dp/B01MTYRVKQI don’t see any need for labelling the wires itself. The main labelling is on the individual decoders (K83/84). Best Regards Lasse |
Digital 11m2 layout / C (M&K) tracks / Era IV / CS3 60226 / Train Controller Gold 9 with 4D sound. Mainly Danish and German Locomotives. |
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 Joined: 04/04/2013(UTC) Posts: 1,291 Location: Port Moody, BC
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I use eye screws spaced at regular intervals and usually have a column of 5 so that each screw holds the different purpose wiring - 1 for power red, 1 for return/ground brown, 1 for yellow lighting, 1 for grey sensor feedback, and 1 for solenoid and signal accessories.
Peter
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2 users liked this useful post by PMPeter
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 Joined: 21/05/2004(UTC) Posts: 1,768 Location: Brisbane, Queensland
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modelling era IIIa (1951-1955) Germany |
3 users liked this useful post by applor
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Joined: 10/02/2006(UTC) Posts: 3,997
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Originally Posted by: applor
I use stripped cat5 cable for my S88 wiring, gives 8 different colours which makes finding the right wire easy enough.
Standardised/universal colours for power bus and for lighting bus.
same here... Step by step stages, with pictures, of s88 wiring using bundled cable at https://cabin-layout.mixmox.com/2014/08/s88-cable.html |
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1 user liked this useful post by DaleSchultz
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 Joined: 04/02/2011(UTC) Posts: 3,559 Location: Paris, France
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Hi My wiring is certainly not a model but rather a living thing. I keep on adding things and improvements.  I use long staples (for roof insulation) with an electric stapler. Staples are not inserted with full strength that way it gives a nice loop to have wires through them allowing later additions and changes. Because I still have some flat cable for S88 (6088 and 60880) it is kept away from other cables to avoid perturbing signals As said before color coding is important (I mean observing Märklin color codes) and adding new colors for specific purposes (LED lighting, DC for Car System, etc). I get most colors from a flat multicolor cable. Digital power (5 Amps) is distributed through 2.5 mm² cables (for loudspeakers) and then feeders (approx. .75 mm² distribute power to rail sections. At present I have made a mistake of mixing the wiring of rail and decoders so I need to change this. I have added LED lights for warning (e.g.: Car System Stop solenoid activation, car System "Rollende Landstrasse" release coils) and thermal components in series with solenoids (they switch off solenoids when temperature is above 70°C and below have a resistor of a fraction of ohm. Other LEDs are there for signalling logic (e.g.: detection of truck that mut go a different route). Cheers Jean |
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1 user liked this useful post by JohnjeanB
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Joined: 31/12/2010(UTC) Posts: 3,994 Location: Paremata, Wellington
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Personally, I'm really drawn to these plastic clips which hold the wires in neat tidy parallel runs, and remind me very much of the method used by M. for their factory built layouts - you can always tell one by this method. What I'd like to know is how many different manufacturers make clips of this type and whether anyone has found any that are really good value on the likes of AliExpress etc? This deal offered here might actually be quite good, works out at about $25 - $30 NZD or about $1 per strip but i really like them. Seems to me they would be cheap to produce and real easy to fit and work with. Just wondering also who else might have used or tried them out and how they perform? https://www.ebay.com/itm...Railway-H1-/332477559886Image added below also for when the auction expires I found these also..... http://www.modellbahn-al...-holder-25-slots-10-pcs, same seller has packs of 25, 50 & 100 and seems to work out between .40 - .50 Eurocents per strip And a couple of other sellers but I can't tell who the actual manufacturer of these is. It's the sort of thing you might expect from Noch or Brawa, Viessman etc? I found more similar items from further searching including Noch item 60160, but in yellow, perhaps they also make the clear ones? Auction Image 25 pcs  Detail image  Noch 60160  Viessmann 6809  SCHNEIDER 5120 BY FAR THE BEST DEAL - around .11 Eurocents each !! but that may come at a trade-off in quality - anyone used them? I'm not sure that they are as flexible as the others and not as wide as some of the others http://schneider-feinwer...e/Kabelhalter-100-Stueck |
Cookee Wellington  |
5 users liked this useful post by cookee_nz
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