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Offline Bones  
#1 Posted : 03 September 2021 12:29:10(UTC)
Bones

Australia   
Joined: 15/09/2015(UTC)
Posts: 105
Location: Queensland
I am wonder what type of solder should be used and should a temp controlled iron

Once I start to fully wire my layout I don't want to take the risk that the crimp terminals may slide off

Offline H0  
#2 Posted : 03 September 2021 12:44:35(UTC)
H0


Joined: 16/02/2004(UTC)
Posts: 15,254
Location: DE-NW
With Märklin H0 C track I use standard solder and a non-regulated soldering iron (15 W) and it works like a charm.
Soldering wires to the steel rails is a different challenge, but the tabs on the C track make it easy.
Regards
Tom
---
"In all of the gauges, we particularly emphasize a high level of quality, the best possible fidelity to the prototype, and absolute precision. You will see that in all of our products." (from Märklin New Items Brochure 2015, page 1) ROFLBTCUTS
UserPostedImage
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Offline DaleSchultz  
#3 Posted : 03 September 2021 15:05:38(UTC)
DaleSchultz

United States   
Joined: 10/02/2006(UTC)
Posts: 3,997
can you show what you mean exactly by the 'crimp terminals' you are using.
Modern IDC Connectors (insulation-displacement contact) are extremely reliable and do not require solder.
Dale
Intellibox + own software, K-Track
My current layout: https://cabin-layout.mixmox.com
Arrival and Departure signs: https://remotesign.mixmox.com
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Offline rhfil  
#4 Posted : 03 September 2021 16:12:34(UTC)
rhfil

United States   
Joined: 05/09/2014(UTC)
Posts: 422
Location: NEW HAMPSHIRE, Somersworth
I have found that there is a lack of consistency with size. It is the Goldilocks problem-some are too loose, some too tight, and some just right. I have found it is easiest to make the female connections a bit loose to make connecting easy and then tighten them with small pliers to keep them from slipping off. I have also thought about soldering them but that seems way too permanent. Some kind of a removable contact adhesive would be ideal. Unfortunately it does not seem to exist.
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Offline marklinist5999  
#5 Posted : 03 September 2021 16:39:24(UTC)
marklinist5999

United States   
Joined: 10/02/2021(UTC)
Posts: 3,075
Location: Michigan, Troy
I only used crimp terminals on my lighting transformer terminals. They did slide off when I crimped two 22 gague wires on. I soldered them with thin wire solder and a standard iron with flux. For lengthening wiring, and splicing I used heat shrink tubing. I only had to solder first when the splice was thin l.e.d. cable to 24 gague wire.
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Offline rhfil  
#6 Posted : 03 September 2021 17:48:43(UTC)
rhfil

United States   
Joined: 05/09/2014(UTC)
Posts: 422
Location: NEW HAMPSHIRE, Somersworth
Oh, good point. Is he talking about the terminals disconnecting from the wires or from the matching terminal? I assumed he was referring to the other terminal. Usually the problem with the wire coming out of the terminal is an improper crimp. I think if you double the bare wire back on itself as I think is recommended by Marklin there should not be a problem with the wire coming out of the terminal.
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Offline David Dewar  
#7 Posted : 03 September 2021 21:17:47(UTC)
David Dewar

Scotland   
Joined: 01/02/2004(UTC)
Posts: 7,333
Location: Scotland
I just solder wires which keeps them from coming loose. If you need to take a wire off again just heat the solder and the wire will come away.
Take care I like Marklin and will defend the worlds greatest model rail manufacturer.
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Offline Mr. Ron  
#8 Posted : 05 September 2021 23:14:31(UTC)
Mr. Ron

United States   
Joined: 05/07/2020(UTC)
Posts: 311
Location: Mississippi, Vancleave
Soldering wires is the right way to go. Crimp on terminals are not reusable anyway, so might as well solder them.
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