Joined: 07/01/2015(UTC) Posts: 729 Location: England, Suffolk
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Good evening everyone, I'm having a bit of problems soldering. I have an ERSA soldering iron with 30 W power I'm using 60/40 rosin core solder that has a diameter of 0.8 mm
The point of my soldering tip doesn't get hot, only the sides do, soldering becomes really difficult when I have to solder decoder cables on the decoder chip itself because everything becomes hot and impossible to do.
Solder does not stick to the cables but on the soldering tip so this too gets difficult in tight spots
I do not use any extra soldering liquids on the parts that need soldering.
Should I try replacing the soldering tip first ? A more powerful soldering iron would not improve things, I believe, but I may be wrong.
Thank you M
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Joined: 19/08/2008(UTC) Posts: 1,049
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Sounds like the tip is bad. If the sides are hot the heat should be conducted to the tip. It is screwed all the way in, right?
Regards, Roger |
Modeling Immensee, mile/km 0 on the Gottard. SBB Era V.
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Joined: 17/03/2012(UTC) Posts: 138
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Try using a file to clean the tip(unplugged) File off the tin/solder to the base metal(copper) and plug in try again.
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Joined: 10/02/2006(UTC) Posts: 3,997
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on occasion I have to replace the tips of my Weller iron when the solder no longer sticks to the tip.
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 1 user liked this useful post by DaleSchultz
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Joined: 15/10/2006(UTC) Posts: 2,319 Location: Washington, Pacific Northwest
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The tip should absolutely be hot - if that isnt' the case there is a problem with the heat conduction to the soldering iron tip or the iron. That must get solved first. A pre-requisite to good soldering is an iron that is has a hot enough tip, and the power to keep the tip hot once applied to the thing you are soldering. For model railroad wiring the 30W should be enough.
With a hot tip, soldering to wires and wires to decoders and boards will require just a brief touching of the iron to the contact area to get the solder to melt and flow, so overheating nearby components becomes a non-issue. When you don't get proper heat and are holding the iron in contact with the work for a second or more, THEN you will damage nearby stuff.
So get that iron sorted out first.. that is, its failure to heat its tip. Using a damp sponge to clean the tip when hot is a good practice. |
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 4 users liked this useful post by Minok
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Joined: 15/08/2012(UTC) Posts: 234 Location: Perth, Western Australia.
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OK it sounds Like the tip isn't conducting the heat. Try wiping it hot across a wet tissue. The water on the wet the tissue should be deminearalsed or distilled otherwise the chemicals in normal tap water will contaminate the tip. The water actually thermally shocks the tip clean. You may also require some liquid flux and you only need a little to help clean the wires and component legs to assist with getting the solder to flow.your choice of 60/40 solder is good. At the hobby level the use of non lead solder only complicates things and requires a higher temperature to work. NEVER file the tip of a soldering iron used for electronic work. The tips have special nickel coatings.
Regards..... Chook
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Joined: 20/01/2015(UTC) Posts: 1,201 Location: Kerikeri
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Apparently, soldering iron tips have a special plating on them. Cleaning with sandpaper ruins that plating. Without that coating, the solder wont tin onto the tip, and so the tip want transfer heat to the solder joint. You need a new tip. Always clean with a wet sponge after every use. { yes, the recommendation is to clean the tip after every single use, but how many of us go to the trouble of doing this \]
I was having trouble like you. I googled soldering and got the results mentioned. I suggest yo do the same. Buy several tips as well.
I have a soldering iron on which the tip is stuffed but I use it for less finicky jobs. I have a good solder station now which I use for the delicate jobs.
Dereck |
Northland. NZ REMEMBER 0228 for ä |
 1 user liked this useful post by dominator
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Joined: 07/01/2015(UTC) Posts: 729 Location: England, Suffolk
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Hi everyone, thank you for your tips I removed the tip from the soldering iron and gave it a good rub with the Dremel copper wire disc. It returned to the original shiny splendour of when I bought it 10+ years ago. There was a lot of oxidation on the stem of the tip. I also cleaned with a Dremel bit the interior of the holder of the tip, lots of black muck came down.
Tomorrow I'll try the tip and see what happens, before leaving for my business trip I'll pop over to the model shop I have round the corner and see what they have. Otherwise saturday I'll have to go to a Homebase or B&Q and see if they have any tips. I'll also look on-line.
I have read what some of you say about NOT using abrasive materials to clean the tip, if I have to change the tip, so be it.
Will let you know how it goes Marco
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 2 users liked this useful post by ocram63_uk
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Joined: 21/05/2004(UTC) Posts: 1,768 Location: Brisbane, Queensland
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You should be constantly wiping your soldering tip on a water soaked sponge during use which will prevent this happening. |
modelling era IIIa (1951-1955) Germany |
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Joined: 05/12/2008(UTC) Posts: 1,801 Location: Crozet, Virginia
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Originally Posted by: applor  You should be constantly wiping your soldering tip on a water soaked sponge during use which will prevent this happening. Excellent advice. My Hakko soldering station has a holder for a wet sponge and some metal mesh built right into the rest for the iron. Because this makes it so convenient to do, I clean my soldering tip after each and every use. This makes it easy to keep it clean and working correctly at all times. If your cleaning did not fix this problem simply replace that tip. That is why they are so easily replaceable on most irons, allowing you to always be able to produce high quality solder joints without overheating other components. As Minok said, you should not have to heat for more than a second or so before the solder flows. |
Regards,
Jim
I have almost all Märklin and mostly HO, although I do have a small number of Z gauge trains!
So many trains and so little time. |
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Joined: 15/10/2006(UTC) Posts: 2,319 Location: Washington, Pacific Northwest
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Stands are cheap around $10 on Amazon. Tips for your iron make should be similar price.  |
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 1 user liked this useful post by Minok
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Joined: 26/03/2006(UTC) Posts: 1,423 Location: Brisbane, QLD
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Don't leave the tip "dry" (i.e. with no solder coating). When you've finished, wipe the tip on the damp sponge as usual, then re-wet the tip with solder, and leave it to cool like that. This will help prevent oxidization of the tip. |
Cheers, Damon |
 2 users liked this useful post by DamonKelly
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Joined: 07/01/2015(UTC) Posts: 729 Location: England, Suffolk
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hi Damon, you mean before putting it away, correct?
All, I tried soldering again after having cleaned the tip. It is now something extremely neat and easy. I still have to replace the tip though, it resists much better now that I wipe it on the wet sponge as you all suggested. I might have to buy a new soldering iron if I can't find the correct tip though. Thank you M
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 1 user liked this useful post by ocram63_uk
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Joined: 23/07/2014(UTC) Posts: 8,464 Location: ENGLAND, Didcot
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Originally Posted by: waltklatt  Try using a file to clean the tip(unplugged) File off the tin/solder to the base metal(copper) and plug in try again. Fileing a tip is a quick way to a very short life for the tip. The reason is that the tips are iron plated and when you file through to the copper the solder eats away the copper extremely fast. It will take no time at all for the tip to become very pitted and useless.
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 1 user liked this useful post by kiwiAlan
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Joined: 07/01/2015(UTC) Posts: 729 Location: England, Suffolk
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hi Alan what you say, and after what I've read from you guys, this is correct but how do you get rid of the oxidation of the tip after hours of the soldering unit being on ? the oxidation goes on even if you clean the tip on the sponge and leave the iron on all day, or not ?
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Joined: 11/06/2018(UTC) Posts: 9 Location: Indy
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To clean a used soldering iron tip use a tinning block, also called sal ammoniac. Gently rub the dirty tip while hot until it starts to cook the block and smoke. Add some solder and wipe the tip thru the molten solder. This recoats the tip and transfers the oxidation, burnt flux and impurities to the block. The tip should be evenly coated and shiny when thru. Don't do this under the smoke alarm, learned the hard way!
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 4 users liked this useful post by Hoosiertom
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Joined: 21/05/2004(UTC) Posts: 1,768 Location: Brisbane, Queensland
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Originally Posted by: ocram63_uk  hi Alan what you say, and after what I've read from you guys, this is correct but how do you get rid of the oxidation of the tip after hours of the soldering unit being on ? the oxidation goes on even if you clean the tip on the sponge and leave the iron on all day, or not ? The tip will always oxidise after a short while. This is why you wipe it before and after each use, to clean the tip. You should only have the iron on when you are using it and not left on for hours at a time without being used. If there are some stubborn dull spots, melt a heap of solder under the tip and then wipe it all off again on the pad. It sounds like there may be nothing wrong with your soldering tip, you just haven't been taught how to use it correctly. |
modelling era IIIa (1951-1955) Germany |
 3 users liked this useful post by applor
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Joined: 26/03/2006(UTC) Posts: 1,423 Location: Brisbane, QLD
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Originally Posted by: ocram63_uk  you mean before putting it away, correct? Correct. Applor's advice is also good -- you do not need to leave the iron on all the time. It should take only about a minute to warm up, so turn it off if you are doing something else that will take more than a few minutes. |
Cheers, Damon |
 3 users liked this useful post by DamonKelly
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