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Offline Drongo  
#1 Posted : 05 June 2011 12:03:17(UTC)
Drongo

Australia   
Joined: 03/06/2008(UTC)
Posts: 1,248
Location: Sydney, NSW
One of the most used parts of a train set are the couplings, however, they seem to have very little detailed information about them.

Firstly, what are the different types of couplings available from Marklin and how are they used? Confused

Secondly, I've found it is sometimes difficult to couple carriages together, AND, impossible to couple together on a curve. Bored

Can you please assist me with some details.

Regards
Greg
Take it easy . . . . or any other way you can get it !!!!
Offline kbvrod  
#2 Posted : 05 June 2011 14:47:48(UTC)
kbvrod

United States   
Joined: 23/08/2006(UTC)
Posts: 2,597
Location: Beverly, MA
Hi Greg,all,
What Märklin coaches?Older ones had what I call 'hook&loop' and are frame mounted.
Coupling on curves is difficult as MR track has a much tighten radius than real railroads.

Dr D
Offline Yumgui  
#3 Posted : 05 June 2011 15:29:39(UTC)
Yumgui

United States   
Joined: 20/03/2011(UTC)
Posts: 1,660
Location: Paris, France
@ youngagain,

Most every Märklin catalog has a list of coupler parts ... see attached (from 94-95 catalog).

The "hook & loop" coupler kbvrod spoke about are pictured upper right on the first page ...

You will hopefully find your happiness in there. ThumpUp

Yum Wink
Yumgui attached the following image(s):
Märklin 1994-95 Yearbook E_page 142.jpg
Märklin 1994-95 Yearbook E_page 140.jpg
Märklin 1994-95 Yearbook E_page 141.jpg
If your M track is rusted ... DON'T throw it out !
Working on: https://studiogang.com/projects/all
My heavy train station renovation: https://youtu.be/QQlyNiq416A
Inspired by: http://www.nakedmarklin.com/... Am not alone in this universe, phew.
Offline hennabm  
#4 Posted : 05 June 2011 15:31:12(UTC)
hennabm

Scotland   
Joined: 22/09/2009(UTC)
Posts: 2,073
Location: Edinburgh,
Kolls full book if you have access will show you all the various couplings issued by M*.
I have models from the 50s to the close clouplers and all do fit together. A reason for them not doing is is that they are not aligned or bent.

As for coupling on a curve - this is very difficlt as Dr D mentioned because of the radii.
1957 - 1985 era
What's digital?
Offline H0  
#5 Posted : 05 June 2011 20:31:55(UTC)
H0


Joined: 16/02/2004(UTC)
Posts: 15,435
Location: DE-NW
Hi, Greg!
Originally Posted by: youngagain Go to Quoted Post
Secondly, I've found it is sometimes difficult to couple carriages together, AND, impossible to couple together on a curve. Bored
Can you please assist me with some details.

Close couplers won't couple in curves. But I prefer them as trains look better.

Roco's universal couplers are compatible with Märklin and couple more easy (for cars and coaches with NEM pockets).
Regards
Tom
---
"In all of the gauges, we particularly emphasize a high level of quality, the best possible fidelity to the prototype, and absolute precision. You will see that in all of our products." (from Märklin New Items Brochure 2015, page 1) ROFLBTCUTS
UserPostedImage
Offline RayF  
#6 Posted : 05 June 2011 21:35:42(UTC)
RayF

Gibraltar   
Joined: 14/03/2005(UTC)
Posts: 15,870
Location: Gibraltar, Europe
Marklin has basically three types of wagon coupling in use over the last 50 years.

The oldest is the metal type Relex coupler, which is on the older 46xx and 45xx series of freight wagons. It is also used on the 40xx passenger coaches with metal bodies.

The next development from Marklin was the plastic type relex coupler. This is found on 44xx freight wagons, and on most earler plastic bodied passenger coaches. It is currently only found on hobby wagons.

The most recent type is the close coupler. This is found on all modern wagons except hobby wagons.

Although they are all meant to work together, my experience is that the metal relex work well with the plastic relex, and the plastic relex work well with the close couplers, but the metal relex and close couplers are harder to couple and uncouple together.

Couplers from other makes tend to work better with the relex couplers than with the close couplers.

Some cheap Marklin locos have just a simple hook. These work well with both types of relex, but are really difficult to couple with close couplers.

Ray
Mostly Marklin.Selection of different eras and European railways
Small C track layout, control by MS2, 100+ trains but run 4-5 at a time.
thanks 1 user liked this useful post by RayF
Offline Joseph Meiring  
#7 Posted : 05 June 2011 22:19:37(UTC)
Joseph Meiring

South Africa   
Joined: 27/12/2009(UTC)
Posts: 1,165
Location: Western Cape Cape Town
I agree Ray, the plastic and metal relex are quite compatible. I do prefer the older metal relex; the newer plastic ones "bend" away from each other quite easily even on a "slight" curve - you need to be a fair distance away from a reverse curve in the shunting bays for the plastic couplers to align in the straight position, bit of a pain if space is at a premium!! I have invested in a coupling gauge, and am slowly sorting out all my damaged couplers!
I also invested in a pack of relex couplers to change the close couplers for easier coupling the metal to plastic relex......Joe
Offline kimballthurlow  
#8 Posted : 05 June 2011 22:52:02(UTC)
kimballthurlow

Australia   
Joined: 18/03/2007(UTC)
Posts: 6,762
Location: Brisbane, Australia
Hi,

The reliability of the so called Relex coupler is legendary. It couples easily.

All my Marklin rolling stock is post 1995, so all have the new style 7203 coupler, so called close coupler "with guide" which is the little plastic tongue that guides two couplers together.

In my experience, these do not couple easily. And never on curves. It actually annoys me mildly.

I am thinking one day I could switch all my couplers to Kadee. You can purchase Kadee for the modern NEM coupler pockets. Kadee are the only prototypical action/look couplers in the world, and are widely used, especially in the US. I will have to test first if they couple Marklin stock on curves.

The club I belong to uses all Kadees on American models, and they work beautifully. I think it will be quite an expensive to change all my couplers. I will weigh up the cost v the intended benefits before I commit.

As I said earlier, I am only mildly annoyed with the coupler issue, as I am a hands on sort of modeller anyway.

regards
Kimball

HO Scale - Märklin (ep II-III and VI, C Track, digital) - 2 rail HO (Queensland Australia, UK, USA) - 3 rail OO (English Hornby Dublo) - old clockwork O gauge - Live Steam 90mm (3.1/2 inch) gauge.
Offline ricky  
#9 Posted : 09 June 2011 00:17:38(UTC)
ricky


Joined: 07/06/2011(UTC)
Posts: 313
Location: California
Originally Posted by: kimballthurlow Go to Quoted Post
Hi,

The reliability of the so called Relex coupler is legendary. It couples easily.

All my Marklin rolling stock is post 1995, so all have the new style 7203 coupler, so called close coupler "with guide" which is the little plastic tongue that guides two couplers together.

In my experience, these do not couple easily. And never on curves. It actually annoys me mildly.

I am thinking one day I could switch all my couplers to Kadee. You can purchase Kadee for the modern NEM coupler pockets. Kadee are the only prototypical action/look couplers in the world, and are widely used, especially in the US. I will have to test first if they couple Marklin stock on curves.

The club I belong to uses all Kadees on American models, and they work beautifully. I think it will be quite an expensive to change all my couplers. I will weigh up the cost v the intended benefits before I commit.

As I said earlier, I am only mildly annoyed with the coupler issue, as I am a hands on sort of modeller anyway.

regards
Kimball



Hi Kimball,

thanks for the tip about Kadee. I looked at their web site; the NEM 362 coupler (the one to be used with Märklin cars with NEM pocket) has 4 shank "options": short, medium, long, and extra long. Do you know or anybody knows which one will be the best for Märklin cars? Could it be different for different lengths of cars?

They are not cheap, but I guess you could start replacing them either by era (if you do not mix eras) or first for passenger cars, and later for freight cars or vice versa.

I am also wondering if the lower part of the coupler is just to "look like" the braking pipe between cars, or something else? Unsure
If it is, it seems more american than european, as the braking pipe(s) in Europe are on the side of the cars, not in the middle.

Cheers,
Ricky. Smile
Offline ricky  
#10 Posted : 09 June 2011 00:21:19(UTC)
ricky


Joined: 07/06/2011(UTC)
Posts: 313
Location: California
Originally Posted by: H0 Go to Quoted Post
Roco's universal couplers are compatible with Märklin and couple more easy (for cars and coaches with NEM pockets).


Hi Tom,

just curious about the Roco and Märklin couplers compatibility. Does this work well with 27 cm cars? Do the cars touch each other in straight line, or not?

Thanks,
Ricky. Smile
Offline kimballthurlow  
#11 Posted : 09 June 2011 01:06:08(UTC)
kimballthurlow

Australia   
Joined: 18/03/2007(UTC)
Posts: 6,762
Location: Brisbane, Australia
Originally Posted by: ricky Go to Quoted Post
Originally Posted by: kimballthurlow Go to Quoted Post
Hi,

......
I am thinking one day I could switch all my couplers to Kadee. You can purchase Kadee for the modern NEM coupler pockets. Kadee are the only prototypical action/look couplers in the world, and are widely used, especially in the US. I will have to test first if they couple Marklin stock on curves.

....
regards
Kimball



Hi Kimball,

thanks for the tip about Kadee. .......
I am also wondering if the lower part of the coupler is just to "look like" the braking pipe between cars, or something else? Unsure
If it is, it seems more american than european, as the braking pipe(s) in Europe are on the side of the cars, not in the middle.

Cheers,
Ricky. Smile


Hi Ricky,
Yes, I think the lower curved pin which is used as an uncoupling swivel under the influence of a track mounted magnet, is marginally designed to look like a brake hose. Quite clever. It certainly looks OK on American or Australian stuff, would not be sure for European, as I have never studied that.

While the short kinematic couplers have certainly added some perceptive advantage to model trains, I do question their practical effectiveness. They do of course considerably shorten a long goods train.

regards
Kimball
HO Scale - Märklin (ep II-III and VI, C Track, digital) - 2 rail HO (Queensland Australia, UK, USA) - 3 rail OO (English Hornby Dublo) - old clockwork O gauge - Live Steam 90mm (3.1/2 inch) gauge.
Offline kimballthurlow  
#12 Posted : 09 June 2011 01:08:57(UTC)
kimballthurlow

Australia   
Joined: 18/03/2007(UTC)
Posts: 6,762
Location: Brisbane, Australia
Hi,

I for one am quite interested in the coupler question. On my Marklin layout, I use two lots of couplers. One is the latest Marklin 7203, and I also use the older Fleischmann hook coupler. I do this because I am enamoured of the older Fleischmann rolling stock that comes with this coupler riveted on.

It is easy for me to change the NEM coupler on the tender of an engine, just for a running session to use these older wagons. They couple well on curves, and I really like the Fleischmann construction method on these old wagons, because I easily change the wheels for AC running.

regards
Kimball
HO Scale - Märklin (ep II-III and VI, C Track, digital) - 2 rail HO (Queensland Australia, UK, USA) - 3 rail OO (English Hornby Dublo) - old clockwork O gauge - Live Steam 90mm (3.1/2 inch) gauge.
Offline H0  
#13 Posted : 09 June 2011 09:53:41(UTC)
H0


Joined: 16/02/2004(UTC)
Posts: 15,435
Location: DE-NW
Originally Posted by: ricky Go to Quoted Post
just curious about the Roco and Märklin couplers compatibility. Does this work well with 27 cm cars? Do the cars touch each other in straight line, or not?

I'd say they have the same length as the M* close couplers, so distance will be the same.

I use them for all my non-Märklin rolling stock, so I don't have 27 cm coaches with this type.
Only exception are some Piko Hobby locos, but that is the fault of the loco (some work with the height adjustable Roco universal coupler (shaft is slightly longer), some still have hook and loop coupler).

The distance will be slightly shorter with the Roco close coupler (which is not compatible with M* coupler or Roco universal coupler).
My train of 30 cm coaches uses them between the coaches with universal couplers on the outside.

AFAIK the Roco universal coupler is M* compatible without restrictions. And it's smaller (not so high) so it can be used where M*'s close coupler touches the buffers.
I'll try to post some pictures (if I find the time).
Regards
Tom
---
"In all of the gauges, we particularly emphasize a high level of quality, the best possible fidelity to the prototype, and absolute precision. You will see that in all of our products." (from Märklin New Items Brochure 2015, page 1) ROFLBTCUTS
UserPostedImage
Offline kariosls37  
#14 Posted : 09 June 2011 12:41:09(UTC)
kariosls37

New Zealand   
Joined: 02/01/2009(UTC)
Posts: 1,067
Location: Auckland, New Zealand
Originally Posted by: kimballthurlow Go to Quoted Post
Originally Posted by: ricky Go to Quoted Post
Originally Posted by: kimballthurlow Go to Quoted Post
Hi,

......
I am thinking one day I could switch all my couplers to Kadee. You can purchase Kadee for the modern NEM coupler pockets. Kadee are the only prototypical action/look couplers in the world, and are widely used, especially in the US. I will have to test first if they couple Marklin stock on curves.

....
regards
Kimball



Hi Kimball,

thanks for the tip about Kadee. .......
I am also wondering if the lower part of the coupler is just to "look like" the braking pipe between cars, or something else? Unsure
If it is, it seems more american than european, as the braking pipe(s) in Europe are on the side of the cars, not in the middle.

Cheers,
Ricky. Smile


Hi Ricky,
Yes, I think the lower curved pin which is used as an uncoupling swivel under the influence of a track mounted magnet, is marginally designed to look like a brake hose. Quite clever. It certainly looks OK on American or Australian stuff, would not be sure for European, as I have never studied that.

While the short kinematic couplers have certainly added some perceptive advantage to model trains, I do question their practical effectiveness. They do of course considerably shorten a long goods train.

regards
Kimball


I am experimenting a bit with Kadees at the moment, after deciding to go with them for my scratchbuilt stuff. I still have to figure out quite a bit of their ins and outs, but I don't have the time at the moment.

They couple very well, it should not move the wagon from it's spot if you do it carefully. They are a bit harder to uncouple manually, but they uncouple really well with magnets, provided that the couplers are adjusted correctly(the tolerances are a bit smaller than the usual couplers) Just like Marklin's Relex couplers, they have a way to uncouple and then push the wagon off the uncoupling magnet allowing you to leave the wagon there.

I hope this sheds a little more light onto the Yankee side of this subject

Rick
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