As a beginner I occasionally find myself stuck for all those short C track pieces needed for a layout. My supplier has them posted almost immediately but it can still be a few days before they arrive and then even more days before I get a chance to use them.

This is what I do when I’m stuck and impatient. I can have the track I need in an hour or so and custom lengths are easy too. My apologies to the experts who’ve seen it all before.

In this case a 24188, 24094 and 24071 were needed to make 353.3mm as shown. This can be cut from two the 24188s shown down below. Try to avoid cutting at the webs which can be in the way in the joining process – juggle the pieces used to avoid this if you can.


Cut the plastic tabs off one end of the track that will stay full length. Use a sharp knife to remove them and a small file to smooth the area. This will join with the cut end of the other track.


Cut the track to be shortened. I usually leave 0.5 mm extra and trim back from there to allow for any little slips while cutting. A small saw or cutting wheel works well – but don’t melt the plastic. For the final product to look good the end must then be made straight and square.


It is also possible to mill the end of C track if you have the equipment and go slowly!


Align the pieces on a level surface with a thin straight edge against the rails as a guide. Connect the two pieces electrically and, with them firmly weighted in the correct place, join them with 5 minute Araldite (which really takes over 20 minutes to set). Be careful not to mound up the Araldite to the point where the track will not sit flat when turned over. I’m going to try that UV instant setting glue to try to speed things up next time.

There is possibility that some Araldite might leak through the gap between the two rails if they haven’t been finished flat and square. In this case just use a tiny bit of Araldite to pre-seal the gap and allow it to firm up before doing the bulk application.


Check the finished item. Make sure it all sits flat, trim any excess Araldite. Minor leakage of Araldite can sometimes be hidden by using a grey felt pen. This is what you get – the top one is with stock pieces, the bottom one is the creation.

Testing the limits of C-track bendiness! Beautiful and useful. Here's what I think you did - rotated 45 degrees just because the part numbers are more legible on the plan this way around...

Love it!

Kimball

I can't work out why they have used R1 curves to come off an R2 point. I guess it makes the tracks slightly closer together, but I haven't tried to workout just how much difference it would make.

Here's the R2 version. It's not as compact. There's not a really handy stock track length to balance the legs but a 24236 will make a passing loop.

Before, when I said storage track, I should have been clearer and said hidden storage track where an R1/R2 mix wouldn't be an issue - to me anyway.

I'll give laser cutting C track a try - just because I'm curious to see how it will go. The metal cutting seen in the picture looks violent but mirror smooth precision cuts are possible. Oxygen is used when cutting some metals. Compressed air is used for plastics. The C track metal and plastic combination might take some fine tuning. You could cut a kit for the R2 version in a few seconds.

How about cutting the 2461x turnout profile directly at the frog (and replace the removed curved section by a short straight section)? This results in a 16° "angle" which can be offset by a 24115/24215/24315 15° curve (the 1° difference does not matter in practice as it can be absorbed by the track pieces involved). The inserted straight piece defuses the dreaded S-curve even further.


Source: Miba 1998-11

Here is a simulation, supposing the turnout is cut at 15º

SORRY, there is an obvious mistake at the right of the bottom image. This is the right one

Hello,

I have borrowed this plan from member GenDemo in another post.
It is his elegant solution for fitting a double slip 24624 into two tangential R1 circles.



If you wish to see a larger image, here is the link to the original post.
GenDemo double slip ideas


Kimball

Hi all,

Here are a couple of ideas for a figure-of-8 :

There is one 24207 of 7.5* and 8x 24106 of 5.7* in the small print in each bow.


Or we can make one like this, using one 24224 of 24.3* and 5x 24106 of 5.7* in each bow.


I used a mathematical table approach to calculate optimum angles for the bow, and I used the C-Track measure to fit the straight pieces.
It's not a perfect fit due to the odd angle which is used in C-Track, but it's the best fit.

Regards
John

That is FACINATING!!!!!

... such as the perfect and symmetric version

If you want this (lower left straight gap between turnout and diamond crossing to filled by customised track segment)...

you have to do that:


The resulting C track segment counts 14 sleepers (versus the standard 24094 with 13 sleepers). 24094 would have been too short and 2x 24064 too long.

The flip side.

(Never mind the inverted cable colour code.)

Edited by user 10 September 2021 10:48:04(UTC)  | Reason: Not specified

Now, the actual look

Thanks Paco, that is very illuminating.

Firstly I find it annoying that we have to spoil a large radius curve (R9) with an R2 section to achieve a part or a full circle.

Secondly, yes the R9 does make for delightful parade track scenarios as well as any flexible track.
I have dealt with flexible track for the last 50 years, and frankly I am over it.
C track has genuinely lifted a huge burden from my shoulders in building a model train layout.

Here is my example shown in your diagram, though this has a longer straight.
It is double track with the straight on the bridge.
Sorry, I have to use more than one available photo to show the extent.

Overhead view, with 2 x 24912 at each end of the bridge:



A side view showing bridge styles:



Loco depot end.




Kimball

Edited by user 30 October 2021 02:51:55(UTC)  | Reason: Replaced one photo with aerial view

And another ornament.