HI !

I recently purchased a MARKLIN 37030 digital HO steam engine over eBay. The seller sold me the unit in an an un-used condition and is genuine. Unfortunately, the engine suffered some damage while shipping. There is some damage to the engine body but most importantly, the contact shoe has come off. Now I am not sure if this is how MARKLIN packages the new engines.

The manual states that the engine is compatible with with Delta or other Marklin digital systems.

I managed to clip in the contact shoe back. Upon placing the engine on the track, I managed to configure the engine while using the database as 37030 BR 38 2581. While I see the lights on the engine coming on, the engine refuses to move. I then tried the automatic recognition system on the MS and it got picked up as MM2 -26. However the result is the same. The engine refuses to move an inch !

Any suggestions how could I resolve this ? In this issue related to some internal damage ?


PS ... I tried even to manually rotate the engine wheels... they won't move despite applying some good force.


Regards,

Rohit

Rohit, looking at the spare part list the motor has worm gears and moving them by force wouldn't have helped it in your situation.

its always a risk when buying from ebay and you haven't experienced the seller before, I had a seller with inadequate protection when he send me a parcel from Germany to Australia,I've showed him some photos of the package and he blamed the postal service, although nothing was damaged so far the item was concerned and not admitting some responsibility I will most probably not buy any more stuff from him.
getting back to your scenario, there are several options you've got, unfortunately you've excepted the parcel and it may didn't show any sign outside. if you paid via PayPal you can ask for a refund mentioning the loco doesn't work. you also can get in contact with the seller and tell him what has happened, I wouldn't mention that you've tried to move the wheels by hand under some force.
it will lie in your hands what you tell the seller and for future references never try to move the wheels by hand unless its a loco driven by cogwheels and worm gears and in my opinion you have contributed to the failure of your loco although you may not have damaged the loco further but tampered with it.
If something doesn't work and you are not sure how to fix it without either losing out on your guarantee or reporting the item as not working, do not try to fix it yourself.

another point I like to make usually a seller will point out the digital decoder number or makes a statement the loco is in good working order.

Whatever is wrong with the loco you should ask or tell the seller, how the loco arrived, you've registered it with your MS2 and the decoder registered under the number 26. but the loco wouldn't move and see what his respond is. if he can't come with answers you should start a procedure whereas you file a complain for a return., hoping you've paid with PayPal.

good luck

regards.,

John

Hi Guys ,

Thanks for the suggestions.

Hi John... regretfully, I did not use my pay pal account to pay for this transaction. I have however initiated a return process through eBay. The seller is acting a bit funny for now. Says he will only refund 50 % of the amount and that I can try and fix the problem myself. I have obviously declined. This loco is of no use to me in its current condition. Let's see how this will go.

I was thinking of opening the body of the loco to see if I can figure out what is wrong. Also to clarify, I really did not force the wheels to tun manually. Just tried it somewhat to see if they would move. The loco is as it very delicate so I was extremely careful. I don't think I would have caused any further harm.

You did mention that the loco is quite old ( 2006). However from the looks of it I can tell that it has not been run before. So you think that the motor may have got clogged on its now with time time ?

Regards,


Rohit

The loco looks new to me, no wear to be seen on the wheels

You should follow Applor's advice, and try to apply 12V DC ( Or 9V DC ) directly to the motor in the boiler.

The electrical connections from the motor in the boiler to the printed circuit board in the frame has to touch
each other very accurate, it could be those connections which are not working as intended.

Can you control the lights on the loco with your MS?

If the seller will give you half the price back, and you feel confident doing the repairs yourself; I would do so.

Per.

Try re-assembling the loco and check that the bottom of the boiler is sitting flush with the frame. If there is too much of a gap, the gears will not engage. Conversely, if the boiler to frame fit is too tight, the motor can bind up, or draw extra current because of the tension against the bearings. If it's binding, you can use shims to add a little clearance.

No, a Faulhaber motor is a motor manufactured by Faulhaber!

You Google a lot, and posts a lot of links; but far too often you don't get the facts right.

Even the link you provided to modellbahntechnik-aktuell.de lists 4 rebuilds using Maxon motors and only one using Faulhaber motor.



It's not a question about what you find logical, it's a question about what are the facts.

You could say that Rolls Royce is the world leader of building extreme quality / luxury cars; but it's not their main business.

Siemens is a world leader in building wind turbines; but it's not their main business.

Faulhaber have 1.900 employees, not all of those are making model train motors

Could you try to get you facts correct?

And as you can see now, the motor is not dead...........

Per.

P.S: Maxon also claims to be the "worldwide leading provider of high-precision drive systems"

https://www.maxongroup.c...xon/view/content/company

Hi,

Here are a short clip of the motor actually working. I used the contact points that I fix on to the tracks.from the MS... didn't have any other source handy.

motor .mov (14,562kb) downloaded 47 time(s). motor 2.mov (5,253kb) downloaded 36 time(s).


I will try and see if the soldering pads are being supplied the power with help of a bulb as suggested. Hope I will be able to make this loco work with all the suggestions and guidance. Thanks .....

Rohit

OOOOOOPSSSSS.!!!!!...... will get hold of a 9 V battery and connector to repeat the test ..... thanks for the caution

To be honest, I don't see a reason for a complaint, you knew that it is not working, you bought it and you bought the risk and the chance that you can make it to work.

I have a loco in the same condition, one of the wheel axels has seized and I could not make it turn. I have cleaned and oiled but nothing so used WD40....
then repacked all locos and now cant remember which one it is so can't check

Just to put the record straight Rolls Royce Motors is a subsidiary of BMW. When they bought the business from Rolls Royce Corporation the guys that make Jet engines and lumps of planes etc they also bought the right to continue to use the name - it suited them both

You are of course right, in this context I should've been more specific



Exxxxactly ( ), and you would of course never try to sell it, claiming it had a Faulhaber motor



Please tell us the results

Per.

What kind of mistake are you writing?




What has it to do with a plastic piece named LEGO?

"The company was founded on 10 August 1932 by Ole Kirk Christiansen.[6] The word "lego" is derived from the Danish words "leg godt", meaning "play well"."

See at Wikipedia "The Lego Group"

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/The_Lego_Group

This bell-type armature motor (Glockenankermotor) is not named by an akronym, made out of two words (leg godt). This small very specific (no ferrite core containing) motor is named either by its working principle (Glockenanker) or by its inventor Faulhaber.

The only one who does not understand something, even are not able to read written words, are a North European nerd.

About the dilution of branding-names and product-descriptions. It is clear from the Faulhaber-context.


It was just an example of similar problems of brand-dilution. The "Nylon" was another similar example.

Have fun!

Exactly

But nobody in their right mind would use the term "a Maxon Faulhaber motor"

Per.

Hi Everyone !

Wanted to update and request suggestions on my case with the loco. Progress so far has been as follows :-

1.Fitted the contact shoe.
2.MS recognized the loco when put on the track as MM2-26
3.I am able to control the direction lights.
4.I guess that point # 2 and 3 means that the decoder is working and internal wiring of the loco is working ok.
5.Tested the main motor in the loco barrel using a 9V battery and connector. The motor works fine.
6.Tested the soldering pads on which the contact points of the motor in the barrel rests and found it to be relaying the current.

Now, this is where the problem starts.....when I put the barrel back on to the main body so that the contact pins touch the soldering pads, nothing happens. It won't turn on the motor. So I am guessing that this could be an issue of an improper contact. I even put extra soldering material on the pads so as to raise the hight of the pads but still the motor does not works.

I am now thinking of soldering two separate wires from the soldering pads to the contact pins.



Would appreciate any suggestions / guides ? Is my idea of soldering wires between the contact pads and pins good ? I just want to negate any possibility of an improper contact.



ROHIT

Don't solder to the contacts, you will ruin them for their original purpose. Use small crocodile clips to make the connection.