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Offline Rohit279  
#1 Posted : 25 September 2019 22:16:57(UTC)
Rohit279

Bahrain   
Joined: 12/09/2018(UTC)
Posts: 27
HI !

I recently purchased a MARKLIN 37030 digital HO steam engine over eBay. The seller sold me the unit in an an un-used condition and is genuine. Unfortunately, the engine suffered some damage while shipping. There is some damage to the engine body but most importantly, the contact shoe has come off. Now I am not sure if this is how MARKLIN packages the new engines.

The manual states that the engine is compatible with with Delta or other Marklin digital systems.

I managed to clip in the contact shoe back. Upon placing the engine on the track, I managed to configure the engine while using the database as 37030 BR 38 2581. While I see the lights on the engine coming on, the engine refuses to move. I then tried the automatic recognition system on the MS and it got picked up as MM2 -26. However the result is the same. The engine refuses to move an inch !

Any suggestions how could I resolve this ? In this issue related to some internal damage ?


PS ... I tried even to manually rotate the engine wheels... they won't move despite applying some good force.


Regards,

Rohit
Offline TEEWolf  
#2 Posted : 25 September 2019 23:46:50(UTC)
TEEWolf

Germany   
Joined: 01/06/2016(UTC)
Posts: 1,934
Originally Posted by: Rohit279 Go to Quoted Post
HI !

I recently purchased a MARKLIN 37030 digital HO steam engine over eBay. The seller sold me the unit in an an un-used condition and is genuine. Unfortunately, the engine suffered some damage while shipping. There is some damage to the engine body but most importantly, the contact shoe has come off. Now I am not sure if this is how MARKLIN packages the new engines.

The manual states that the engine is compatible with with Delta or other Marklin digital systems.

I managed to clip in the contact shoe back. Upon placing the engine on the track, I managed to configure the engine while using the database as 37030 BR 38 2581. While I see the lights on the engine coming on, the engine refuses to move. I then tried the automatic recognition system on the MS and it got picked up as MM2 -26. However the result is the same. The engine refuses to move an inch !

Any suggestions how could I resolve this ? In this issue related to some internal damage ?


PS ... I tried even to manually rotate the engine wheels... they won't move despite applying some good force.


Regards,

Rohit


Searching about your problems in German communities, I was referred back to a thead at - yes - Maerklin-User-Net.

https://www.marklin-user...-driving-chars#post74342

A thread from 2009. Perhaps it may help you and I hope it starts moving your beautiful loco again. Because as I see it is from the year 2006

https://www.maerklin.de/...s/details/article/37030/

Has a very good motor (Glockenanker) and a fx-decoder, which is also not bad. If an engine was not used for about 13 years, well it may cause problems with its moving parts. Do not know the English word for it. In German we say "verharzen", in English it shall be gumming.

CS 3 is a controller system from Märklin - not a central station.
Offline river6109  
#3 Posted : 26 September 2019 04:24:11(UTC)
river6109

Australia   
Joined: 22/01/2009(UTC)
Posts: 12,579
Location: On 1965 Märklin Boulevard just around from Roco Square
Rohit, looking at the spare part list the motor has worm gears and moving them by force wouldn't have helped it in your situation.

its always a risk when buying from ebay and you haven't experienced the seller before, I had a seller with inadequate protection when he send me a parcel from Germany to Australia,I've showed him some photos of the package and he blamed the postal service, although nothing was damaged so far the item was concerned and not admitting some responsibility I will most probably not buy any more stuff from him.
getting back to your scenario, there are several options you've got, unfortunately you've excepted the parcel and it may didn't show any sign outside. if you paid via PayPal you can ask for a refund mentioning the loco doesn't work. you also can get in contact with the seller and tell him what has happened, I wouldn't mention that you've tried to move the wheels by hand under some force.
it will lie in your hands what you tell the seller and for future references never try to move the wheels by hand unless its a loco driven by cogwheels and worm gears and in my opinion you have contributed to the failure of your loco although you may not have damaged the loco further but tampered with it.
If something doesn't work and you are not sure how to fix it without either losing out on your guarantee or reporting the item as not working, do not try to fix it yourself.

another point I like to make usually a seller will point out the digital decoder number or makes a statement the loco is in good working order.

Whatever is wrong with the loco you should ask or tell the seller, how the loco arrived, you've registered it with your MS2 and the decoder registered under the number 26. but the loco wouldn't move and see what his respond is. if he can't come with answers you should start a procedure whereas you file a complain for a return., hoping you've paid with PayPal.

good luck

regards.,

John
https://www.youtube.com/river6109
https://www.youtube.com/6109river
5 years in Destruction mode
50 years in Repairing mode
Offline applor  
#4 Posted : 26 September 2019 06:33:16(UTC)
applor

Australia   
Joined: 21/05/2004(UTC)
Posts: 1,394
Location: Brisbane, Queensland
One or both of the wires to the motor is likely open circuit.

On this model the boiler lifts entirely off the frame. If you follow the manual instructions and remove the boiler (which has the motor) and then apply 12v DC to the motor terminals to check if the motor works separate from the decoder.
modelling 1954 Germany (era IIIa)
thanks 2 users liked this useful post by applor
Offline Rohit279  
#5 Posted : 27 September 2019 08:40:28(UTC)
Rohit279

Bahrain   
Joined: 12/09/2018(UTC)
Posts: 27
Hi Guys ,

Thanks for the suggestions.

Hi John... regretfully, I did not use my pay pal account to pay for this transaction. I have however initiated a return process through eBay. The seller is acting a bit funny for now. Says he will only refund 50 % of the amount and that I can try and fix the problem myself. I have obviously declined. This loco is of no use to me in its current condition. Let's see how this will go.

I was thinking of opening the body of the loco to see if I can figure out what is wrong. Also to clarify, I really did not force the wheels to tun manually. Just tried it somewhat to see if they would move. The loco is as it very delicate so I was extremely careful. I don't think I would have caused any further harm.

You did mention that the loco is quite old ( 2006). However from the looks of it I can tell that it has not been run before. So you think that the motor may have got clogged on its now with time time ?

Regards,


Rohit
Offline hxmiesa  
#6 Posted : 27 September 2019 09:31:34(UTC)
hxmiesa

Spain   
Joined: 15/12/2005(UTC)
Posts: 2,726
Location: Spain
From what you say here;
I would carefully remove the body shell, and have a look inside.
If the lok really is as-new, any loose wires or hardened oil/grease should be visible right away.
You might gain a good new lok, instead of going through a frustrating return-process with will need time, patience and money, and in the end leave ypou with zero new rolling stock to show for all the effort.
Best regards
Henrik Hoexbroe ("The Dane In Spain")
http://hoexbroe.tripod.com
Offline Rohit279  
#7 Posted : 27 September 2019 18:18:48(UTC)
Rohit279

Bahrain   
Joined: 12/09/2018(UTC)
Posts: 27
hi,

I really could not resist my curiosity to see if there is something minor that I could fix . I opened up the body shell . Didn't really see anything wrong with the wiring / soldering. All seems to be fine. I again put the loco on the track as is and my MS picked it up.

I did notice the cog wheel at the base of the loco. I used a fine screwdriver to rotate the cog wheel and it moved freely. This also made the loco's wheels to turn

There is another cog wheel at the base of the loco's boiler which sits on first cog wheel. This wheel too turned freely. This is now leading me to believe that the fault lies in the motor, which is inside the boiler. How do I test that ? IMG_5090.jpgIMG_5091.jpgIMG_5093.jpg

IMG_5090.jpg
Offline TEEWolf  
#8 Posted : 27 September 2019 18:44:11(UTC)
TEEWolf

Germany   
Joined: 01/06/2016(UTC)
Posts: 1,934
Originally Posted by: Rohit279 Go to Quoted Post
hi,

I really could not resist my curiosity to see if there is something minor that I could fix . I opened up the body shell . Didn't really see anything wrong with the wiring / soldering. All seems to be fine. I again put the loco on the track as is and my MS picked it up.

I did notice the cog wheel at the base of the loco. I used a fine screwdriver to rotate the cog wheel and it moved freely. This also made the loco's wheels to turn

There is another cog wheel at the base of the loco's boiler which sits on first cog wheel. This wheel too turned freely. This is now leading me to believe that the fault lies in the motor, which is inside the boiler. How do I test that ?


Good question, because it is a Glockenanker (or Faulhaber - which is a synonym for the Glockenanker engine) motor. They are pretty expensive, but very good. Here some more information about the Glockenanker motor.

https://www.glockenankermotor.com/

https://www.sb-modellbau.com/

https://www.fischer-mode...ockenankermotor-fm1020ds

https://www.sb-modellbau...u_durch_sb_modellbau.pdf


Your pictures look like this loco were used and is not brand new. At the end of the day it is really a money decision as @hxmiesa wrote already.

I think, finally it depends on the price of the loco and the shipping costs for you living in Bahrain. But even for myself here in Germany I would not bother. I would change the motor (costs about 30 €) and probably change the fx decoder against a new mSD/3 with sound and the automtic registering function, even it is not necessary. Because the loco is really a beauty and worthwhile to get updates. I myself would keep it, even it gets more expensive as I would have thought before buying the loco.

The fx decoder is not lost. You may use it for other devices. Perhaps you build into a coach and toggle the interior lights.
CS 3 is a controller system from Märklin - not a central station.
Offline Purellum  
#9 Posted : 27 September 2019 20:41:14(UTC)
Purellum

Denmark   
Joined: 08/11/2005(UTC)
Posts: 3,168
Location: Mullerup, 4200 Slagelse
Cool

The loco looks new to me, no wear to be seen on the wheels Cool

You should follow Applor's advice, and try to apply 12V DC ( Or 9V DC ) directly to the motor in the boiler.

The electrical connections from the motor in the boiler to the printed circuit board in the frame has to touch
each other very accurate, it could be those connections which are not working as intended.

Can you control the lights on the loco with your MS?

If the seller will give you half the price back, and you feel confident doing the repairs yourself; I would do so.

Per.

Cool
If you can dream it, you can do it!

I, the copyright holder of this work, hereby release it into the public domain. This applies worldwide.

In case this is not legally possible:
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Offline Purellum  
#10 Posted : 27 September 2019 20:49:08(UTC)
Purellum

Denmark   
Joined: 08/11/2005(UTC)
Posts: 3,168
Location: Mullerup, 4200 Slagelse
Cool

Originally Posted by: TEEWolf Go to Quoted Post
or Faulhaber - which is a synonym for the Glockenanker engine


No it's not Cool

Faulhaber makes thousands of different motors, only a very small percentage of which are Glockenanker motors.

The motor in this loco is a Maxon motor.

Per.

Cool
If you can dream it, you can do it!

I, the copyright holder of this work, hereby release it into the public domain. This applies worldwide.

In case this is not legally possible:
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Offline Rohit279  
#11 Posted : 27 September 2019 22:00:17(UTC)
Rohit279

Bahrain   
Joined: 12/09/2018(UTC)
Posts: 27
The motor works !!!BigGrin Tried touching the contact points ( pins) with the power current and the motor started to work, rotating the cog wheel in the boiler. it however strutters after every 5 seconds ......but it spins fine. Also, I am able to control the light with my MS. I can change the directions of the light as well.

So this could be as well an issue of the contact points not being properly fed ? The contact pins are spring loaded and extend from the boiler and touches the soldering pads at the base of the loco. I tried to observe as closely as possible but really cannot tell if the contact is good enough. So how do I rectify this now ? Also, the fact that the motor is making a strutting noice every 5 seconds means that it has gone bad ?

Also, another issue could be that the soldering pads where the boiler pins make contact themselves do not have power. Confused

If I manage to make good the contact, I may was well have some chance with the loco...Mellow


IMG_5095.jpgIMG_5097.jpgIMG_5096.jpg
Offline TEEWolf  
#12 Posted : 27 September 2019 22:23:03(UTC)
TEEWolf

Germany   
Joined: 01/06/2016(UTC)
Posts: 1,934
Originally Posted by: Rohit279 Go to Quoted Post
The motor works !!!BigGrin Tried touching the contact points ( pins) with the power current and the motor started to work, rotating the cog wheel in the boiler. it however strutters after every 5 seconds ......but it spins fine. Also, I am able to control the light with my MS. I can change the directions of the light as well.

So this could be as well an issue of the contact points not being properly fed ? The contact pins are spring loaded and extend from the boiler and touches the soldering pads at the base of the loco. I tried to observe as closely as possible but really cannot tell if the contact is good enough. So how do I rectify this now ? Also, the fact that the motor is making a strutting noice every 5 seconds means that it has gone bad ?

Also, another issue could be that the soldering pads where the boiler pins make contact themselves do not have power. Confused

If I manage to make good the contact, I may was well have some chance with the loco...Mellow


Good work. You wake up a sleeping machine. Isn't this a good news too? Decoder is working, motor is working, why shall the mistake not be at the soldering pads? Can you not all these soldering points resolder?

CS 3 is a controller system from Märklin - not a central station.
Offline DTaylor91  
#13 Posted : 27 September 2019 22:23:11(UTC)
DTaylor91


Joined: 31/08/2007(UTC)
Posts: 371
Location: Kennesaw, GA
Originally Posted by: Rohit279 Go to Quoted Post
The motor works !!!BigGrin Tried touching the contact points ( pins) with the power current and the motor started to work, rotating the cog wheel in the boiler. it however strutters after every 5 seconds ......but it spins fine. Also, I am able to control the light with my MS. I can change the directions of the light as well.

So this could be as well an issue of the contact points not being properly fed ? The contact pins are spring loaded and extend from the boiler and touches the soldering pads at the base of the loco. I tried to observe as closely as possible but really cannot tell if the contact is good enough. So how do I rectify this now ? Also, the fact that the motor is making a strutting noice every 5 seconds means that it has gone bad ?

Also, another issue could be that the soldering pads where the boiler pins make contact themselves do not have power. Confused

If I manage to make good the contact, I may was well have some chance with the loco...Mellow



Try re-assembling the loco and check that the bottom of the boiler is sitting flush with the frame. If there is too much of a gap, the gears will not engage. Conversely, if the boiler to frame fit is too tight, the motor can bind up, or draw extra current because of the tension against the bearings. If it's binding, you can use shims to add a little clearance.
Offline TEEWolf  
#14 Posted : 27 September 2019 22:48:14(UTC)
TEEWolf

Germany   
Joined: 01/06/2016(UTC)
Posts: 1,934
Originally Posted by: Purellum Go to Quoted Post
Cool

Originally Posted by: TEEWolf Go to Quoted Post
or Faulhaber - which is a synonym for the Glockenanker engine


No it's not Cool

Faulhaber makes thousands of different motors, only a very small percentage of which are Glockenanker motors.

The motor in this loco is a Maxon motor.

Per.

Cool


Could be a Maxon motor. Does not alter anything.

"Bell armature motors are high-quality motors for model railway traction vehicles. The name bell-shaped armature motor derives from the bell shape of the armature winding.

Bell armature motors are also called "Faulhaber motors" or "Fauli" in the jargon, since the drive principle with ironless skew winding of the armature coil of a bell armature motor was applied for a patent by Dr. Faulhaber in 1958."

https://www.modellbahnte...ldung/glockenankermotor/


Faulhaber products are described themselves as "... offers the largest consolidated portfolio of miniature and micro drive technologies available in the world today."

https://www.faulhaber.com/en/products/

I do not think it is very logic, when their percentage at the Glockenanker motors production are so small, if they are the world wide leader in this product class.
CS 3 is a controller system from Märklin - not a central station.
Offline Purellum  
#15 Posted : 27 September 2019 23:13:20(UTC)
Purellum

Denmark   
Joined: 08/11/2005(UTC)
Posts: 3,168
Location: Mullerup, 4200 Slagelse
Cool

Originally Posted by: TEEWolf Go to Quoted Post
Bell armature motors are also called "Faulhaber motors"


No, a Faulhaber motor is a motor manufactured by Faulhaber!

You Google a lot, and posts a lot of links; but far too often you don't get the facts right.

Even the link you provided to modellbahntechnik-aktuell.de lists 4 rebuilds using Maxon motors and only one using Faulhaber motor.

Originally Posted by: TEEWolf Go to Quoted Post
I do not think it is very logic, when their percentage at the Glockenanker motors production are so small, if they are the world wide leader in this product class.


It's not a question about what you find logical, it's a question about what are the facts.

You could say that Rolls Royce is the world leader of building extreme quality / luxury cars; but it's not their main business.

Siemens is a world leader in building wind turbines; but it's not their main business.

Faulhaber have 1.900 employees, not all of those are making model train motors LOL

Could you try to get you facts correct?

And as you can see now, the motor is not dead........... Cool

Per.

P.S: Maxon also claims to be the "worldwide leading provider of high-precision drive systems" BigGrin

https://www.maxongroup.c...xon/view/content/company

Cool
If you can dream it, you can do it!

I, the copyright holder of this work, hereby release it into the public domain. This applies worldwide.

In case this is not legally possible:
I grant anyone the right to use this work for any purpose, without any conditions, unless such conditions are required by law.

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Offline Purellum  
#16 Posted : 27 September 2019 23:41:52(UTC)
Purellum

Denmark   
Joined: 08/11/2005(UTC)
Posts: 3,168
Location: Mullerup, 4200 Slagelse
Cool

Originally Posted by: Rohit279 Go to Quoted Post
Tried touching the contact points ( pins)with thepower current and the motor started to work, rotating the cog wheel in the boiler.ithowever strutters after every 5 seconds ......but it spins fine.


Which "power current" ? Be sure to only use a "clean" DC power. If in doubt, use a 9V battery.

Originally Posted by: Rohit279 Go to Quoted Post
Also, another issue could be that the soldering pads where the boiler pins make contact themselves do not have power.


I expect you don't have a multi meter; but if you have a small 24V bulb, you can see if there's power on the pads.

Maybe scratch a little on top of the pads with a screwdriver, to make sure they are clean - when there's no power on! BigGrin

If the motor runs and the pads have power, follow DTaylor91's advice Cool

Per.

Cool
If you can dream it, you can do it!

I, the copyright holder of this work, hereby release it into the public domain. This applies worldwide.

In case this is not legally possible:
I grant anyone the right to use this work for any purpose, without any conditions, unless such conditions are required by law.

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Offline Rohit279  
#17 Posted : 28 September 2019 00:29:18(UTC)
Rohit279

Bahrain   
Joined: 12/09/2018(UTC)
Posts: 27
Hi,

Here are a short clip of the motor actually working. I used the contact points that I fix on to the tracks.from the MS... didn't have any other source handy.

motor .mov (14,562kb) downloaded 21 time(s). motor 2.mov (5,253kb) downloaded 11 time(s).


I will try and see if the soldering pads are being supplied the power with help of a bulb as suggested. Hope I will be able to make this loco work with all the suggestions and guidance. Thanks ..... BigGrin

Rohit
Offline Purellum  
#18 Posted : 28 September 2019 00:42:03(UTC)
Purellum

Denmark   
Joined: 08/11/2005(UTC)
Posts: 3,168
Location: Mullerup, 4200 Slagelse
Cool

Originally Posted by: Rohit279 Go to Quoted Post
I used the contact points that I fix on to the tracks.from the MS... didn't have any other source handy.



STOP !!!

This is NOT a DC supply, you might damage the motor !!

Buy a 9V battery if you ever need to do this test again Cool

Per.

Cool
If you can dream it, you can do it!

I, the copyright holder of this work, hereby release it into the public domain. This applies worldwide.

In case this is not legally possible:
I grant anyone the right to use this work for any purpose, without any conditions, unless such conditions are required by law.

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Offline Rohit279  
#19 Posted : 28 September 2019 00:54:13(UTC)
Rohit279

Bahrain   
Joined: 12/09/2018(UTC)
Posts: 27
OOOOOOPSSSSS.!!!!!...... will get hold of a 9 V battery and connector to repeat the test ..... thanks for the caution
Offline Purellum  
#20 Posted : 28 September 2019 01:01:10(UTC)
Purellum

Denmark   
Joined: 08/11/2005(UTC)
Posts: 3,168
Location: Mullerup, 4200 Slagelse
Cool

Originally Posted by: Rohit279 Go to Quoted Post
will get hold of a 9 V battery and connector to repeat the test


Good BigGrin

I'll bet there's no more stuttering then Cool

Per.

P.S: Quite often USB cables for phones gets damaged at the small connector going in to the phone.

If you have one of those, cut the small connector off, strip the wires, and use your USB-charger as a 5V DC supply Cool

Cool
If you can dream it, you can do it!

I, the copyright holder of this work, hereby release it into the public domain. This applies worldwide.

In case this is not legally possible:
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Offline HO Collector  
#21 Posted : 29 September 2019 18:37:57(UTC)
HO Collector

United Kingdom   
Joined: 21/02/2016(UTC)
Posts: 98
Location: Just north of London
Originally Posted by: Rohit279 Go to Quoted Post
The seller sold me the unit in anan un-used condition and is genuine.


To be honest, I don't see a reason for a complaint, you knew that it is not working, you bought it and you bought the risk and the chance that you can make it to work.

I have a loco in the same condition, one of the wheel axels has seized and I could not make it turn. I have cleaned and oiled but nothing so used WD40....
then repacked all locos and now cant remember which one it is so can't check Cursing Cursing LOL LOL
Offline Purellum  
#22 Posted : 29 September 2019 18:52:38(UTC)
Purellum

Denmark   
Joined: 08/11/2005(UTC)
Posts: 3,168
Location: Mullerup, 4200 Slagelse
Cool

Originally Posted by: HO Collector Go to Quoted Post
you knew that it is not working


???? Why would anyone expect an un-used loco to be "not working" ???

I've bought a lot of ( too many BigGrin ) locos on Ebay, and to me "un-used" does not mean "not working".

It could be seized, and that's actually a good thing; because then you know for sure that it never ran.

Per.

Cool
If you can dream it, you can do it!

I, the copyright holder of this work, hereby release it into the public domain. This applies worldwide.

In case this is not legally possible:
I grant anyone the right to use this work for any purpose, without any conditions, unless such conditions are required by law.

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Online Rwill  
#23 Posted : 29 September 2019 19:33:41(UTC)
Rwill

United Kingdom   
Joined: 04/05/2015(UTC)
Posts: 547
Location: England, London
Originally Posted by: Purellum Go to Quoted Post
Cool


You could say that Rolls Royce is the world leader of building extreme quality / luxury cars; but it's not their main business.


Cool


Just to put the record straight Rolls Royce Motors is a subsidiary of BMW. When they bought the business from Rolls Royce Corporation the guys that make Jet engines and lumps of planes etc they also bought the right to continue to use the name - it suited them both

thanks 1 user liked this useful post by Rwill
Offline Webmaster  
#24 Posted : 29 September 2019 19:38:44(UTC)
Webmaster


Joined: 25/07/2001(UTC)
Posts: 10,847
I myself think it's yet another case of stuck gears, due to hardened oil... Especially if the loco is of some age and is "never run"...

Do not use excessive force trying to move the wheels by hand, since you are likely to bend valve gear and make the "quartering" of wheels off geometry.

Add some drops of very light oil to the gears and onto the main wheels axles inside of the wheels, wait for a bit and then gently try to move the wheels.
Then try to move them some hours later again.

I have the 37039 DRG version of this, and it does have Maxxon bell-shaped armature DC motor in it...
Juhan - "Webmaster", at your service...
He who asks a question is a fool for five minutes. He who does not ask a question remains a fool forever. [Old Chinese Proverb]
thanks 1 user liked this useful post by Webmaster
Offline Purellum  
#25 Posted : 29 September 2019 21:34:04(UTC)
Purellum

Denmark   
Joined: 08/11/2005(UTC)
Posts: 3,168
Location: Mullerup, 4200 Slagelse
Cool

Originally Posted by: Rwill Go to Quoted Post
Just to put the record straight Rolls Royce Motors is a subsidiary of BMW.


You are of course right, in this context I should've been more specific Blushing

Originally Posted by: Webmaster Go to Quoted Post
I have the 37039 DRG version of this, and it does have Maxxon bell-shaped armature DC motor in it...


Exxxxactly ( BigGrin ), and you would of course never try to sell it, claiming it had a Faulhaber motor Cool

Originally Posted by: Rohit279 Go to Quoted Post
will get hold of a 9 V battery and connector to repeat the test


Please tell us the results BigGrin

Per.

Cool
If you can dream it, you can do it!

I, the copyright holder of this work, hereby release it into the public domain. This applies worldwide.

In case this is not legally possible:
I grant anyone the right to use this work for any purpose, without any conditions, unless such conditions are required by law.

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Offline hxmiesa  
#26 Posted : 30 September 2019 08:58:58(UTC)
hxmiesa

Spain   
Joined: 15/12/2005(UTC)
Posts: 2,726
Location: Spain
Originally Posted by: TEEWolf Go to Quoted Post
[
Bell armature motors are also called "Faulhaber motors" or "Fauli" in the jargon, since the drive principle with ironless skew winding of the armature coil of a bell armature motor was applied for a patent by Dr. Faulhaber in 1958."

This kind of mistakes unfortunatly happens a lot;
It´s the same with "legos" for any type of plastic binding block, or "nylons" for any kind of PA-reinforced stockings. -Just to mention a few.
In fact it´s a huge problem today for the companies who actually OWNS de names of these brands (Like The Lego Company o DuPont Chemicals; It leeads´s to a bleeding-out of the property rights of these product names.
In my Lego asociation we use to say that "a puppy dies every time you say ´legos´", in order for people to stop using this wrong form of identification.
Best regards
Henrik Hoexbroe ("The Dane In Spain")
http://hoexbroe.tripod.com
Offline TEEWolf  
#27 Posted : 30 September 2019 21:31:11(UTC)
TEEWolf

Germany   
Joined: 01/06/2016(UTC)
Posts: 1,934
Originally Posted by: hxmiesa Go to Quoted Post

This kind of mistakes unfortunatly happens a lot;


What kind of mistake are you writing?


Originally Posted by: hxmiesa Go to Quoted Post

It´s the same with "legos" for any type of plastic binding block, or "nylons" for any kind of PA-reinforced stockings. -Just to mention a few.
In fact it´s a huge problem today for the companies who actually OWNS de names of these brands (Like The Lego Company o DuPont Chemicals; It leeads´s to a bleeding-out of the property rights of these product names.
In my Lego asociation we use to say that "a puppy dies every time you say ´legos´", in order for people to stop using this wrong form of identification.


What has it to do with a plastic piece named LEGO?

"The company was founded on 10 August 1932 by Ole Kirk Christiansen.[6] The word "lego" is derived from the Danish words "leg godt", meaning "play well"."

See at Wikipedia "The Lego Group"

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/The_Lego_Group

This bell-type armature motor (Glockenankermotor) is not named by an akronym, made out of two words (leg godt). This small very specific (no ferrite core containing) motor is named either by its working principle (Glockenanker) or by its inventor Faulhaber.

CS 3 is a controller system from Märklin - not a central station.
Offline Purellum  
#28 Posted : 30 September 2019 22:11:18(UTC)
Purellum

Denmark   
Joined: 08/11/2005(UTC)
Posts: 3,168
Location: Mullerup, 4200 Slagelse
Cool

Originally Posted by: TEEWolf Go to Quoted Post
This bell-type armature motor (Glockenankermotor) is not named by an akronym, made out of two words (leg godt). This small very specific (no ferrite core containing) motor is named either by its working principle (Glockenanker) or by its inventor Faulhaber.


You just don't get it, and you've been fooled again by not understanding your Google-results. BigGrin

A Faulhaber motor is ( in the model train world ) a bell shaped armature motor ( Glockenankermotor ) manufactured by Faulhaber.

A Maxon motor is ( in the model train world ) a bell shaped armature motor ( Glockenankermotor ) manufactured by Maxon.

A Namiki motor is ( in the model train world ) a bell shaped armature motor ( Glockenankermotor ) manufactured by Namiki.

IMHO Faulhaber makes the best bell shaped armature motors, and definitely the most expensive.

Try selling one of your locos with a Maxon motor, claiming that it has a Faulhaber motor, and you'll be F***ed by the buyer,
by Ebay or by Paypal and / or whoever else is involved in the transaction. Cool

If you want to answer EVERY question asked on this forum; instead of only answering the ones where you know the answer
from experience, you have to improve your Google'ing skills a lot - and start reading the questions you are answering.

In this topic your answer to "How do I test the motor" was wrong information about the motor, 4 links totally irrelevant to the question,
a strange statement about the loco not being new and a lot of bla bla bla about buying a new motor and a new decoder. LOL

Why??

Per.

P.S: To the rest of the forum: Sorry guys; but so much misinformation p***es me off, and someone has to correct it.

P.P.S: And we still miss the link to the information about MS2s not being able to update MS2s.............. Glare

Cool
If you can dream it, you can do it!

I, the copyright holder of this work, hereby release it into the public domain. This applies worldwide.

In case this is not legally possible:
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Offline TEEWolf  
#29 Posted : 30 September 2019 22:27:01(UTC)
TEEWolf

Germany   
Joined: 01/06/2016(UTC)
Posts: 1,934
Originally Posted by: Purellum Go to Quoted Post
Cool

Originally Posted by: TEEWolf Go to Quoted Post
This bell-type armature motor (Glockenankermotor) is not named by an akronym, made out of two words (leg godt). This small very specific (no ferrite core containing) motor is named either by its working principle (Glockenanker) or by its inventor Faulhaber.


You just don't get it, and you've been fooled again by not understanding your Google-results. BigGrin

A Faulhaber motor is ( in the model train world ) a bell shaped armature motor ( Glockenankermotor ) manufactured by Faulhaber.

A Maxon motor is ( in the model train world ) a bell shaped armature motor ( Glockenankermotor ) manufactured by Maxon.

A Namiki motor is ( in the model train world ) a bell shaped armature motor ( Glockenankermotor ) manufactured by Namiki.

IMHO Faulhaber makes the best bell shaped armature motors, and definitely the most expensive.

Try selling one of your locos with a Maxon motor, claiming that it has a Faulhaber motor, and you'll be F***ed by the buyer,
by Ebay or by Paypal and / or whoever else is involved in the transaction. Cool

If you want to answer EVERY question asked on this forum; instead of only answering the ones where you know the answer
from experience, you have to improve your Google'ing skills a lot - and start reading the questions you are answering.

In this topic your answer to "How do I test the motor" was wrong information about the motor, 4 links totally irrelevant to the question,
a strange statement about the loco not being new and a lot of bla bla bla about buying a new motor and a new decoder. LOL

Why??

Per.

P.S: To the rest of the forum: Sorry guys; but so much misinformation p***es me off, and someone has to correct it.

P.P.S: And we still miss the link to the information about MS2s not being able to update MS2s.............. Glare

Cool


The only one who does not understand something, even are not able to read written words, are a North European nerd.
CS 3 is a controller system from Märklin - not a central station.
Offline Purellum  
#30 Posted : 30 September 2019 22:57:38(UTC)
Purellum

Denmark   
Joined: 08/11/2005(UTC)
Posts: 3,168
Location: Mullerup, 4200 Slagelse
Cool

Originally Posted by: TEEWolf Go to Quoted Post
The only one who does not understand something, even are not able to read written words, are a North European nerd.


That's a very good, almost winning argument, you really know how to show just how much you know about this subject LOL

Faulhaber doesn't use the term "Faulhaber motor", they call it a "bell-type armature motor": https://www.faulhaber.co...faulhaber-gmbh-co-kg-de/

Märklin doesn't use the term "Faulhaber motor", on Märklin.de you can find only one loco where the name "Faulhaber"
is used, and Märklin knows well enough not to call the motor a "Faulhaber motor", they write exactly this:

Originally Posted by: Märkli Go to Quoted Post
Hintere Achse direkt von einem Glockenankermotor (System Faulhaber) angetrieben.


Maxon and Namiki don't use the term "Faulhaber motor", they also call it a "bell-type armature motor".

But you, you have found a page somewhere on the internet, where someone calls all "Glockenankermotors" for
"Faulhaber motors", and instead of realizing that this is wrong, you want everybody all over the world to follow your mistake?

When you get Märklin, Maxon and Namiki to use the term "Faulhaber motors" about all "Glockenanker motors", I'll follow.

Per.

Cool



If you can dream it, you can do it!

I, the copyright holder of this work, hereby release it into the public domain. This applies worldwide.

In case this is not legally possible:
I grant anyone the right to use this work for any purpose, without any conditions, unless such conditions are required by law.

UserPostedImage
Offline hxmiesa  
#31 Posted : 01 October 2019 09:07:39(UTC)
hxmiesa

Spain   
Joined: 15/12/2005(UTC)
Posts: 2,726
Location: Spain
Originally Posted by: TEEWolf Go to Quoted Post
What kind of mistake are you writing?

About the dilution of branding-names and product-descriptions. It is clear from the Faulhaber-context.

Quote:
What has it to do with a plastic piece named LEGO?

It was just an example of similar problems of brand-dilution. The "Nylon" was another similar example.

Have fun!
Best regards
Henrik Hoexbroe ("The Dane In Spain")
http://hoexbroe.tripod.com
thanks 1 user liked this useful post by hxmiesa
Online Rwill  
#32 Posted : 01 October 2019 13:02:45(UTC)
Rwill

United Kingdom   
Joined: 04/05/2015(UTC)
Posts: 547
Location: England, London
I apologise so far of topic but:

Band Aid, Hoover, Thermos flask, Jacuzzi, Sellotape, Jeep, Lilo, Kleenex, Vaseline, Formica, Biro, Bubble wrap, JCB, Cashpoint.

All in common usage - all brand names
Offline Purellum  
#33 Posted : 01 October 2019 13:31:30(UTC)
Purellum

Denmark   
Joined: 08/11/2005(UTC)
Posts: 3,168
Location: Mullerup, 4200 Slagelse
Cool

Originally Posted by: Rwill Go to Quoted Post
I apologise so far of topic but:

Band Aid, Hoover, Thermos flask, Jacuzzi, Sellotape, Jeep, Lilo, Kleenex, Vaseline, Formica, Biro, Bubble wrap, JCB, Cashpoint.

All in common usage - all brand names


Exactly BigGrin

But nobody in their right mind would use the term "a Maxon Faulhaber motor" Cool

Per.

Cool

If you can dream it, you can do it!

I, the copyright holder of this work, hereby release it into the public domain. This applies worldwide.

In case this is not legally possible:
I grant anyone the right to use this work for any purpose, without any conditions, unless such conditions are required by law.

UserPostedImage
Offline DTaylor91  
#34 Posted : 01 October 2019 19:13:54(UTC)
DTaylor91


Joined: 31/08/2007(UTC)
Posts: 371
Location: Kennesaw, GA
Originally Posted by: DTaylor91 Go to Quoted Post


Try re-assembling the loco and check that the bottom of the boiler is sitting flush with the frame. If there is too much of a gap, the gears will not engage. Conversely, if the boiler to frame fit is too tight, the motor can bind up, or draw extra current because of the tension against the bearings. If it's binding, you can use shims to add a little clearance.


Reposting this, I fear it may have gotten lost in all the off-topic arguing
thanks 4 users liked this useful post by DTaylor91
Offline Rohit279  
#35 Posted : 06 October 2019 21:52:00(UTC)
Rohit279

Bahrain   
Joined: 12/09/2018(UTC)
Posts: 27
Hi Everyone !

I had to travel out of country on an assignment for a week so was unable to post any update. So here is the current status with my loco :-

I connected the main motor in the loco barrel using a 9V battery and a 9V battery connector as suggested BigGrin and confirm that the motor works.
This then lead me to check the soldering pads where the connector pins from the loco's barrel connect with the base.
I took the loco to a local electrical shop. The guy checked the soldering pads with a multi meter and confirmed that it was relaying power. The voltage also varied ( up and down ) while turning the MS dial up or down.


So, the loco connects to the track, my MS recognizes the same, I am able to control the lights .... all is fine. The motor in the barrel works when I connect the 9V battery and so does the soldering pads. So my problem could be related to one of the following :-

Bad connection meaning that the connector pins from the barrel are not contacting the the soldering pads properly. This is actually difficult to determine once the upper body lands on to the loco base. I requested the guy at the electrical shop to add a little more soldering to the pads just in case. I am also thinking to solder two wires from the soldering pads at the base to the connector pins in the barrel so that I negate the issue of bad connection. In this a good idea ? Confused

OR

The barrel is sitting too tight on the base making the gears fuse together and causing them to jam.


Any more suggestions ????

Regards,

ROHIT

IMG_5186.JPGIMG_5184.JPG
Offline DTaylor91  
#36 Posted : 07 October 2019 01:24:57(UTC)
DTaylor91


Joined: 31/08/2007(UTC)
Posts: 371
Location: Kennesaw, GA
If the body is indeed too tight on the frame, try inserting a shim of paper between the two and test again. If nothing, or very little happens, and another layer of paper, and repeat until it runs freely. A more permanent solution can be made with thin sheet plastic of the appropriate thickness
Offline Rohit279  
#37 Posted : 12 October 2019 07:44:14(UTC)
Rohit279

Bahrain   
Joined: 12/09/2018(UTC)
Posts: 27
Hi Everyone !

Wanted to update and request suggestions on my case with the loco. Progress so far has been as follows :-

1.Fitted the contact shoe.
2.MS recognized the loco when put on the track as MM2-26
3.I am able to control the direction lights.
4.I guess that point # 2 and 3 means that the decoder is working and internal wiring of the loco is working ok.
5.Tested the main motor in the loco barrel using a 9V battery and connector. The motor works fine.
6.Tested the soldering pads on which the contact points of the motor in the barrel rests and found it to be relaying the current.

Now, this is where the problem starts.....when I put the barrel back on to the main body so that the contact pins touch the soldering pads, nothing happens. It won't turn on the motor. So I am guessing that this could be an issue of an improper contact. I even put extra soldering material on the pads so as to raise the hight of the pads but still the motor does not works.

I am now thinking of soldering two separate wires from the soldering pads to the contact pins.



Would appreciate any suggestions / guides ? Is my idea of soldering wires between the contact pads and pins good ? I just want to negate any possibility of an improper contact.

Mellow

ROHIT
Offline applor  
#38 Posted : 12 October 2019 09:50:18(UTC)
applor

Australia   
Joined: 21/05/2004(UTC)
Posts: 1,394
Location: Brisbane, Queensland
I suggest temporarily wiring the motor outputs from the decoder to the terminal pins on the boiler motor contacts - with the boiler off of course.
Then try and drive the loco and see if the motor spins.

It may be a contact problem or it may be the decoder motor outputs are not working. This will determine if its the decoder or not.
modelling 1954 Germany (era IIIa)
Offline kiwiAlan  
#39 Posted : 12 October 2019 14:15:00(UTC)
kiwiAlan

United Kingdom   
Joined: 23/07/2014(UTC)
Posts: 4,545
Location: ENGLAND, Didcot
Originally Posted by: applor Go to Quoted Post
I suggest temporarily wiring the motor outputs from the decoder to the terminal pins on the boiler motor contacts - with the boiler off of course.
Then try and drive the loco and see if the motor spins.

It may be a contact problem or it may be the decoder motor outputs are not working. This will determine if its the decoder or not.


Don't solder to the contacts, you will ruin them for their original purpose. Use small crocodile clips to make the connection.

thanks 1 user liked this useful post by kiwiAlan
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