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tiono		#151 Posted : 11 July 2019 08:58:11(UTC) Retweet
Joined: 09/02/2010(UTC) Posts: 234		hi Dale, I tested my regulators; input voltage 17.5V, output voltage 7.5V, without load. Below is the result: MP 1584 drew 0.3 mA Unkown chip (they erased the marking) drew 1.5 mA MP 2307 drew 2 mA MP 1484 drew 7 mA Out of 10 MP2307s, I got one which drew 40 mA and very hot quickly. This is quality control problem; it use bad inductor. I replaced the inductor, and it drew 5 mA (still a bit higher because I don't have better inductor). The inductor is very important to the efficiency. If your regulator drew more than 10mA without load, then most likely the inductor is low quality. Buying from eBay is always hit-and-miss, look at the photo below; the regulator at the top (MP1584) use better quality inductor than the rest (it was also more expensive than the rest).
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DaleSchultz		#152 Posted : 11 July 2019 15:26:27(UTC) Retweet
Joined: 10/02/2006(UTC) Posts: 4,044 Location: In the process of moving to the UK		thanks so much Tiono, you have confirmed that I got a bad batch! I now know to test each one before using !
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dominator		#153 Posted : 12 July 2019 04:08:01(UTC) Retweet
Joined: 20/01/2015(UTC) Posts: 1,205 Location: Kerikeri		I bought 5 of these. I guess I will have to test them. I might be lucky to have 2-3 that are ok. They didnt cost much and arrived here within 12 days.
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DaleSchultz		#154 Posted : 12 July 2019 17:27:13(UTC) Retweet
Joined: 10/02/2006(UTC) Posts: 4,044 Location: In the process of moving to the UK		So I decided to see what replacements I could buy - how can one guess which are good and which are bad.... I also looked at the MP1584 and found this: at https://www.amazon.com/e...RID=PZKF95G4Z57JPXFB1KQM the 4th image has a note: Do not use without a load or a load < 10% of it rated output... and that would be 300mA! I am wondering of testing these without load could be destroying them ??? If the MP2307 modules have the same restriction then running a single strip using 0.5 to 1mA is going to be way too small a load also....
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mario54i		#155 Posted : 12 July 2019 18:59:57(UTC) Retweet
Joined: 28/03/2007(UTC) Posts: 308 Location: Torino,		The test results I showed a few posts before are measured on a MP1584 stepdown converter like yours. As you can see it worked down to no load without problems. Today I ordered stepdown converters using MP2307 and MP2315 and as soon as I receive them (from Spain, should be fast) I will test them the same way. I have already used converters using also MC34063 am L5470 and no one has ever had problems with light loads. Just efficiency is lower than at high load. For light loads I prefer using these linear regulators based on Holtek HT7533, fixed 3.3 V regulator used as variable regulator, I built myself. Regards
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DaleSchultz		#156 Posted : 12 July 2019 19:04:19(UTC) Retweet
Joined: 10/02/2006(UTC) Posts: 4,044 Location: In the process of moving to the UK		A very interesting read on the MP2307 at http://www.epanorama.net/newepa/2017/06/17/small-switch-mode-psu-module-mps-mp2307-fail/ People have been finding the same issues, too hot, and too much current.... One suggestion is that a new batch was ok with '100' stamped on the coil.
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DaleSchultz		#157 Posted : 12 July 2019 19:44:11(UTC) Retweet
Joined: 10/02/2006(UTC) Posts: 4,044 Location: In the process of moving to the UK		anyone tried these ? they also look nice and small; 11mm x 20.5mm https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0758ZTS61/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?smid=AFHAE9RJVUMB&psc=1 Its claims: Static Current: 0.85mA Does that mean the no load current consumption? The company is Hong Kong based but least they have a web site! https://www.droking.com/5-pcs-lot-mini-power-supply-module-car-adapter-dc-4.5-24v-to-5v-3a-buck-converter-adjustable-voltage-regulator-driver-module-charger
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Minok		#158 Posted : 12 July 2019 20:21:19(UTC) Retweet
Joined: 15/10/2006(UTC) Posts: 2,323 Location: Washington, Pacific Northwest		In traditional electrical engineering, static state (as opposed to dynamic state ) is the current when the circuit has stabilized, as opposed to in a state change that has not stabilized. What 'static current' means, I'm not sure. I'm assuming / guessing it means that the regulator (when fed with input voltage in spec and producing an output voltage as set), itself uses 0.84mA as part of the regulation circuit (with the load being constant).
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DaleSchultz		#159 Posted : 12 July 2019 20:51:53(UTC) Retweet
Joined: 10/02/2006(UTC) Posts: 4,044 Location: In the process of moving to the UK		yes I am hoping so also. I have sent them an email to ask what the consumption is. (That will also tell us how responsive they are as a company.) I think I will try a set of these.
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mario54i		#160 Posted : 12 July 2019 21:15:22(UTC) Retweet
Joined: 28/03/2007(UTC) Posts: 308 Location: Torino,		Originally Posted by: DaleSchultz anyone tried these ? they also look nice and small; 11mm x 20.5mm https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0758ZTS61/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?smid=AFHAE9RJVUMB&psc=1 If you compare the pictures, it's the same shown by dominator four posts before yours. It uses a MP2315 IC
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DaleSchultz		#161 Posted : 12 July 2019 21:22:45(UTC) Retweet
Joined: 10/02/2006(UTC) Posts: 4,044 Location: In the process of moving to the UK		true, they do look the same.... I have ordered some which should arrive Monday, I will test and report!
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tiono		#162 Posted : 13 July 2019 04:40:24(UTC) Retweet
Joined: 09/02/2010(UTC) Posts: 234		Originally Posted by: DaleSchultz So I decided to see what replacements I could buy - how can one guess which are good and which are bad.... Impossible to know the quality just by looking on the photo. But you may see the telltale sign. The important component in switching regulator which manufacturer sometimes cut-corner to lower the cost; is the inductor. Therefore try to guess (from the photo) whether the inductor is crappy or good. Inductor manufactured by well-established company usually has marking (value marking such as: 4R7, 100, 330, etc), the letters are crisp and clear, not blurry. Also look at the molding of the casing, whether it is as good as Marklin's metal body locomotive, or looks rough (some of dirt-cheap inductor does not even use molding, but merely sandwiched with ceramic plates and resin filling). Those dirt-cheap inductors never pass any quality control, so the result will vary widely, like playing jackpot, if you're lucky, you may get excellent quality on very low price. Look at the photo below. The inductors on three regulators on the left, were made by the same manufacturer, notice the sandwiched plates and same contact pin. These are cheap inductors. While the rightmost regulator use a good inductor, molded casing with crisp lettering. Those three regulators cost me less than $1 each, while the the good one cost me almost $2.
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kiwiAlan		#163 Posted : 13 July 2019 11:52:00(UTC) Retweet
Joined: 23/07/2014(UTC) Posts: 8,614 Location: ENGLAND, Didcot		Originally Posted by: tiono If your regulator drew more than 10mA without load, then most likely the inductor is low quality. I have looked at the data sheets for the MP1584, MP2307 and MP2315, and any of these should work satisfactorily with no or minimum load, although the problem with these modules is probably that the module designers have worked on the basis of supplying maximum current (3A in all three cases) and used components best suited to that market. This may mean that the components are sub-optimal for very low currents (especially the inductor), not necessarily that the components are of low quality (although that can be a factor, especially for the capacitors). Another problem is very likely the layout of the printed circuit board. This can have a considerable effect on how the converter works as there can be some significant switching currents going where you don't want them, even under no load, which can produce the sort of effects being described in this thread.
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tiono		#164 Posted : 13 July 2019 14:22:12(UTC) Retweet
Joined: 09/02/2010(UTC) Posts: 234		Originally Posted by: kiwiAlan I have looked at the data sheets for the MP1584, MP2307 and MP2315, and any of these should work satisfactorily with no or minimum load, although the problem with these modules is probably that the module designers have worked on the basis of supplying maximum current (3A in all three cases) and used components best suited to that market. This may mean that the components are sub-optimal for very low currents (especially the inductor), not necessarily that the components are of low quality (although that can be a factor, especially for the capacitors). Another problem is very likely the layout of the printed circuit board. This can have a considerable effect on how the converter works as there can be some significant switching currents going where you don't want them, even under no load, which can produce the sort of effects being described in this thread. I purchased those cheap regulators from eBay. Whenever I got a regulator which became hot quickly and drew more than 10mA of idle current, then I replaced the inductor. It work fine then.
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DaleSchultz		#165 Posted : 13 July 2019 15:55:16(UTC) Retweet
Joined: 10/02/2006(UTC) Posts: 4,044 Location: In the process of moving to the UK		thanks, good info on trying to pick quality.... I have ordered 5 from droking as they company seems to be making good stuff and if they are good, we can order from the same place again!
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DaleSchultz		#166 Posted : 14 July 2019 19:16:30(UTC) Retweet
Joined: 10/02/2006(UTC) Posts: 4,044 Location: In the process of moving to the UK		I got an email reply from droking already (a good sign) stating: <in response to asking it it can run with no or small load> If the output range of converter matches your load, it should be oK. Actual output current is decided by load, it is not adjustable. (in response to power consumed with no load> Quiescent current is around 0.85 mA. so , I am feeling confident in this company so far...
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dominator		#167 Posted : 15 July 2019 01:05:29(UTC) Retweet
Joined: 20/01/2015(UTC) Posts: 1,205 Location: Kerikeri		If I wanted to be able to run carriages on analogue as well as digital, what voltage regulator do you think I would need. The max output on my most powerful transformer puts out 29 V AC in the reverse circuit which equates to under 50 V DC. Could this be done or would I need to have master carriages fro each system. Dereck
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tiono		#168 Posted : 15 July 2019 05:37:19(UTC) Retweet
Joined: 09/02/2010(UTC) Posts: 234		Originally Posted by: dominator If I wanted to be able to run carriages on analogue as well as digital, what voltage regulator do you think I would need. The max output on my most powerful transformer puts out 29 V AC in the reverse circuit which equates to under 50 V DC. Could this be done or would I need to have master carriages fro each system. Dereck High voltage switching regulator is probably too big to be put inside a passenger carriage, so most likely you have to use linear regulator. If the LED draw less than 15mA at 8V, then a fix-output linear voltage regulator will be the best. Example: ZXTR2108, very small, able to handle 60V DC, 0.5W max dissipation, output fix at 8V. But if you insist on using the tiny switching regulator from eBay, then must put an over-voltage protection circuit at its input. The protection circuit consist of just three components: a transistor, resistor, and zener diode. (See picture below) Assuming total current of LED + regulator is less than 15mA. ZD1 = 18V zener, 1N4746 R = 3K3 ohm TR1 = small signal transistor with max dissipation 600mW, Vce higher than 50V. e.g.: 2N5551 or MPSA43
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dominator		#169 Posted : 15 July 2019 06:51:23(UTC) Retweet
Joined: 20/01/2015(UTC) Posts: 1,205 Location: Kerikeri		Thanks Tiono. I imagine that Zener diode might need a heat sink. We have large ones of those on our old British motorcycles. A nice simple circuit. I did look at some buck regulators and the ideal one for the 50 v was a wee bit big at 43x30x12 mm . The ac/dc ones didn't have the capacity either. I think the buck regulators I got might be a bit on the small side but not expensive so something else to play around with in the future.
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tiono		#170 Posted : 15 July 2019 08:05:32(UTC) Retweet
Joined: 09/02/2010(UTC) Posts: 234		Originally Posted by: dominator I imagine that Zener diode might need a heat sink. The zener is 1N4746 which is rated 1W max dissipation, does not need heat sink, small size. There is small buck regulator which is able to accept 55V input, but apparently nobody sell the completed module on eBay. If you would like to make a pcb and solder the component by yourself, then may consider MP4560. This chip is small, max input 55V. The completed module can be as small as those low-voltage buck regulators sold on eBay.
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kiwiAlan		#171 Posted : 15 July 2019 14:42:43(UTC) Retweet
Joined: 23/07/2014(UTC) Posts: 8,614 Location: ENGLAND, Didcot		Originally Posted by: tiono High voltage switching regulator is probably too big to be put inside a passenger carriage, so most likely you have to use linear regulator. It should be possible to get a switching regulator to handle that input without being any larger than the modules discussed previously. There are suitable switching regulator chips available, many of them designed for the automotive market, which is tending towards higher voltages than the 12V that has been used for years, there is now a common standard 48V bus, and there are switching regulators designed for this that will handle the switching spikes that will exist on this bus.
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mario54i		#172 Posted : 15 July 2019 15:46:37(UTC) Retweet
Joined: 28/03/2007(UTC) Posts: 308 Location: Torino,		Originally Posted by: kiwiAlan Originally Posted by: tiono High voltage switching regulator is probably too big to be put inside a passenger carriage, so most likely you have to use linear regulator. It should be possible to get a switching regulator to handle that input without being any larger than the modules discussed previously. There are suitable switching regulator chips available, many of them designed for the automotive market, which is tending towards higher voltages than the 12V that has been used for years, there is now a common standard 48V bus, and there are switching regulators designed for this that will handle the switching spikes that will exist on this bus. like this LM5164 (ACTIVE) 6-V to 100-V input, 1-A synchronous buck DC-DC converter with ultra-low IQ
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DaleSchultz		#173 Posted : 15 July 2019 16:52:11(UTC) Retweet
Joined: 10/02/2006(UTC) Posts: 4,044 Location: In the process of moving to the UK		I presume that the lower voltage buck converters could be used (in the 'load' area) of the overvoltage circuit provided by tiono. i.e. we don't need a high voltage buck converter. If so we could see three modules: a) over voltage protection (for analog usage) b) rectifier and DC converter c) anti flicker module These could be combined as needed to feed almost any desired DC voltage down the train. Edit: I see that the over voltage circuit is designed around an 8V output which would suggest that we no longer need the DC-DC converter.... But... one advantage of the converter is that it manages to maintain the output as the input drops (due to loss of contact and the anti-flicker capacitor losing voltage) So perhaps the analog spike circuit should aim at putting out 18V rather than 8, and then we run that through a mini DC-DC converter, this allows the capacitor to obtain a charge high enough to provide a voltage to the DC-DC converter during short periods of power loss If the input is just 8 Volts the capacitor will only supply a maximum of 8V and the lights will go dim during moments of power loss.
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tiono		#174 Posted : 15 July 2019 17:00:06(UTC) Retweet
Joined: 09/02/2010(UTC) Posts: 234		Originally Posted by: kiwiAlan Originally Posted by: tiono High voltage switching regulator is probably too big to be put inside a passenger carriage, so most likely you have to use linear regulator. It should be possible to get a switching regulator to handle that input without being any larger than the modules discussed previously. There are suitable switching regulator chips available, many of them designed for the automotive market, which is tending towards higher voltages than the 12V that has been used for years, there is now a common standard 48V bus, and there are switching regulators designed for this that will handle the switching spikes that will exist on this bus. Of course there are many chip which able to handle more than 50V. But I understand that the context of conversation is; We do not want to make the module ourselves, instead we are looking to purchase the completed, ready-to-use module of those chip (which cheap and small enough to be inside passenger carriage. The size and cost reference were on previous message in this thread). If somebody willing to make pcb and do soldering, then I have already suggested to use MP4560 chip, which can be assembled in small module.
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DaleSchultz		#175 Posted : 15 July 2019 20:10:01(UTC) Retweet
Joined: 10/02/2006(UTC) Posts: 4,044 Location: In the process of moving to the UK		I have added some more thoughts to my earlier post about how the analog spike circuit could be used.
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DaleSchultz		#176 Posted : 16 July 2019 03:41:35(UTC) Retweet
Joined: 10/02/2006(UTC) Posts: 4,044 Location: In the process of moving to the UK		I am pleased to report good results from the 5 Droking modules that arrived today. They arrived well packaged, with a small data sheet printed in color and a card saying to contact them if there are any issues. The 5 modules are in a single strip and each one can be separated easily with a bit of bending. The inductors are marked: 4.7uH 1629NY These modules are in fact even smaller than the MP2307 based mini DC-DC converters I initially tried. (Drok on left and MP2307 on the right) Test results with 17.5 Volts input no load 10V output (default as shipped): 0.79mA no load 7.5V output: 0.71mA 12 LED strip 0.41mA load @ 7.49 Volts 1.25mA! Those measurement match their consumption rating of 0.85mA plus the 0.4mA load -> 1.25mA I have only tested one so far, but these, and the company, look like a winner! We essentially have a solution that consumes about 0.5mA per lighted coach with an overhead of about 0.85mA per train! Edit: these cost $8.99 for 5 from amazon.com and arrived in 2 days. So $1.80 cost per pickup shoe.
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tiono		#177 Posted : 16 July 2019 04:51:44(UTC) Retweet
Joined: 09/02/2010(UTC) Posts: 234		Originally Posted by: DaleSchultz We essentially have a solution that consumes about 0.5mA per lighted coach with an overhead of about 0.85mA per train! Edit: these cost $8.99 for 5 from amazon.com and arrived in 2 days. So $1.80 cost per pickup shoe. Finally you found a solution. Seems as the Droking regulator use MP2315 chip and good inductor (probably Vishay 4.7uH IHLP-4040ED-5A). Can I conclude the following: - buying cheap regulators from eBay most likely will get lower efficiency than it should. - good regulator will not be the cheapest ( less than $1 from eBay versus more than $1 from Droking) - good low voltage buck regulator shall draw idle current (without load) of less than 1mA (I have regulator module which consume only 0.3mA) My personal standard: < 1mA = good 1mA to 10mA = not so good but still usable > 10mA = not good/low quality, will heat up quickly well, I will purchase some from Droking as well.
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DaleSchultz		#178 Posted : 16 July 2019 19:13:08(UTC) Retweet
Joined: 10/02/2006(UTC) Posts: 4,044 Location: In the process of moving to the UK		yes I agree with all your conclusions. I have some 1.25" JST connectors on their way and will see what they are like when they get here
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mario54i		#179 Posted : 16 July 2019 20:48:31(UTC) Retweet
Joined: 28/03/2007(UTC) Posts: 308 Location: Torino,		found another stepdown regulator board from Banggood looks smaller, uses another IC, a Richtek RT8272 regards
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Minok		#180 Posted : 16 July 2019 21:02:19(UTC) Retweet
Joined: 15/10/2006(UTC) Posts: 2,323 Location: Washington, Pacific Northwest		Those are solid conclusions. Low cost factories tend to use the lowers cost components to save a few pennies, but in some components: capacitors and inductors for example, saving a $ or 2 degrades the performance and reliability. Its saving in the wrong place to hit a price target. Looks like these are a winner. Question: I think I see the point with selecting the voltage by bridging it via solder to the output pad one can solder a wire to more easily, but the cutting of the adjustable voltage trace isn't clear. Can this only output one voltage or rather, if you want a fixed voltage, do you cut that trace to take the varistor out of the circuit? -image: amazon.com product listing
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DaleSchultz		#181 Posted : 16 July 2019 21:48:40(UTC) Retweet
Joined: 10/02/2006(UTC) Posts: 4,044 Location: In the process of moving to the UK		yes, by cutting the trace, I believe it removes the variable resistor. By bridging one of the other options, you include a resistor that sets the output voltage exactly. It would be nice if 9V was just right, but I find 9V is even too bright....
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DaleSchultz		#182 Posted : 16 July 2019 21:52:10(UTC) Retweet
Joined: 10/02/2006(UTC) Posts: 4,044 Location: In the process of moving to the UK		Originally Posted by: mario54i found another stepdown regulator board from Banggood looks smaller, uses another IC, a Richtek RT8272 but 10x more expensive!
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mario54i		#183 Posted : 17 July 2019 09:27:01(UTC) Retweet
Joined: 28/03/2007(UTC) Posts: 308 Location: Torino,		Originally Posted by: DaleSchultz but 10x more expensive! I see 20pcs 4.75V-24V To 0.92V-15V DC-DC Adjustable Power Supply Buck Converter Step Down Module at 20 USD
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DaleSchultz		#184 Posted : 17 July 2019 14:26:56(UTC) Retweet
Joined: 10/02/2006(UTC) Posts: 4,044 Location: In the process of moving to the UK		Originally Posted by: mario54i I see 20pcs 4.75V-24V To 0.92V-15V DC-DC Adjustable Power Supply Buck Converter Step Down Module at 20 USD ah, yes I am sorry, I totally missed that, thinking it was for just one! silly me!
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mario54i		#185 Posted : 18 July 2019 21:51:14(UTC) Retweet
Joined: 28/03/2007(UTC) Posts: 308 Location: Torino,		Regulators using MP2303 and 2315 arrived, two samples each. Look like yours. The first ones at power up caused the power supply to trip, too much inrush current. I had to raise the current limit to 130 mA to have them working. Then supply current at no load was 10-15 mA for both. At least voltage was settable and stable. I would say the inductor was heating. The second ones worked better, no inrush current problems. Only 0.3 mA of no load current, but only one one worked correctly, the other was not settable well. Tomorrow I'll test them more deeply regards
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dominator		#186 Posted : 21 August 2019 23:03:37(UTC) Retweet
Joined: 20/01/2015(UTC) Posts: 1,205 Location: Kerikeri		Success in a round about way. After looking at Lewistrain's topic https://www.marklin-user...nd-remote-control--ROUGH Thanks Lewis and reading all here, I have used both to achieve a good result with my tin plate coaches. Remote testing so far. Bridge rectifier, Buck converter input 8-55v to 12v output the Buck Converter used coach with pickup and connectors. i have used three wire connectors in case I want to use earth pickups from every coach. LED lightsd in coach plus LED remote testing I have used the above Buck Converter with the idea that the coaches can then run on the digital track or the analogue track. The remote allows the lights to be switched on and off as well as dimmed [ plus other unnecessary modes ]. Lewis came up with this idea and it answered my question about turning lights on and off. All the materials were purchased at very low cost, and they allow me to make things work, which to me, is part of the enjoyment of the hobby. I will look at fitting capacitors in each coach, attached to the LED ribbon. Its been a while getting this sorted, and just have to work out the best way to run the wiring. I have even been thinking about fitting the power supplies in some of the larger analogue steam engines tenders, but that is for the future. Dereck Edited at: by user 13 September 2019 00:17:41(UTC)  | Reason: Not specified
		Northland. NZ
3 users liked this useful post by dominator		PeFu, DaleSchultz, lewistrain
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LongHairedDavid		#187 Posted : 22 August 2019 10:36:11(UTC) Retweet
Joined: 04/01/2019(UTC) Posts: 344 Location: England, Ipswich		I am lost here amongst all of the in depth discussions. Can I ask a "simple" question then. I want to power an LED strip in a coach from a slider. Can you summarise all of the above so that I can grasp this? I did study electronics but in 1975 so I am a bit out of date- grin.
		Long Haired David AKA David Pennington A mystified Maerklin Newbie
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DaleSchultz		#188 Posted : 22 August 2019 13:22:55(UTC) Retweet
Joined: 10/02/2006(UTC) Posts: 4,044 Location: In the process of moving to the UK		Originally Posted by: LongHairedDavid I am lost here amongst all of the in depth discussions. Can I ask a "simple" question then. I want to power an LED strip in a coach from a slider. Can you summarise all of the above so that I can grasp this? I did study electronics but in 1975 so I am a bit out of date- grin. Well, if simplicity is the only goal, then I guess using 24 Volt LED strip and single diode will do the trick. It will flicker. They may be too bright.
		Dale Intellibox + own software, K-Track My current layout: https://cabin-layout.mixmox.com Arrival and Departure signs: https://remotesign.mixmox.com
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DaleSchultz		#189 Posted : 22 August 2019 13:28:30(UTC) Retweet
Joined: 10/02/2006(UTC) Posts: 4,044 Location: In the process of moving to the UK		When have finished my testing, I do plan on writing up the optimal solution. (low current draw, flicker free, cheap)
		Dale Intellibox + own software, K-Track My current layout: https://cabin-layout.mixmox.com Arrival and Departure signs: https://remotesign.mixmox.com
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LongHairedDavid		#190 Posted : 22 August 2019 17:03:16(UTC) Retweet
Joined: 04/01/2019(UTC) Posts: 344 Location: England, Ipswich		Originally Posted by: DaleSchultz Originally Posted by: LongHairedDavid I am lost here amongst all of the in depth discussions. Can I ask a "simple" question then. I want to power an LED strip in a coach from a slider. Can you summarise all of the above so that I can grasp this? I did study electronics but in 1975 so I am a bit out of date- grin. Well, if simplicity is the only goal, then I guess using 24 Volt LED strip and single diode will do the trick. It will flicker. They may be too bright. That I can do without help!
		Long Haired David AKA David Pennington A mystified Maerklin Newbie
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Minok		#191 Posted : 22 August 2019 20:05:06(UTC) Retweet
Joined: 15/10/2006(UTC) Posts: 2,323 Location: Washington, Pacific Northwest		Originally Posted by: LongHairedDavid I am lost here amongst all of the in depth discussions. Can I ask a "simple" question then. I want to power an LED strip in a coach from a slider. Can you summarise all of the above so that I can grasp this? I did study electronics but in 1975 so I am a bit out of date- grin. The summary of all that is that he's getting the track power, then sending it through a circuit that regulates/controls the voltage at a much lower than 'track' DC level, to very efficiently power the LED lighting he's installing, and he's routing the power from car to car via couplers. The voltage is matched to the LED and other diodes to get reliable operations even across short track power interruptions (dirt, slider disconnect)
		Toys of tin and wood rule! --- My Layout Thread on marklin-users.net: InterCity 1-3-4 My YouTube Channel: https://youtube.com/@intercity134
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LongHairedDavid		#192 Posted : 23 August 2019 11:07:18(UTC) Retweet
Joined: 04/01/2019(UTC) Posts: 344 Location: England, Ipswich		Originally Posted by: Minok Originally Posted by: LongHairedDavid I am lost here amongst all of the in depth discussions. Can I ask a "simple" question then. I want to power an LED strip in a coach from a slider. Can you summarise all of the above so that I can grasp this? I did study electronics but in 1975 so I am a bit out of date- grin. The summary of all that is that he's getting the track power, then sending it through a circuit that regulates/controls the voltage at a much lower than 'track' DC level, to very efficiently power the LED lighting he's installing, and he's routing the power from car to car via couplers. The voltage is matched to the LED and other diodes to get reliable operations even across short track power interruptions (dirt, slider disconnect) I rather hoped that someone would list the components required.
		Long Haired David AKA David Pennington A mystified Maerklin Newbie
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DaleSchultz		#193 Posted : 24 August 2019 02:22:56(UTC) Retweet
Joined: 10/02/2006(UTC) Posts: 4,044 Location: In the process of moving to the UK		Originally Posted by: LongHairedDavid I rather hoped that someone would list the components required. when complete, I will do just that....
		Dale Intellibox + own software, K-Track My current layout: https://cabin-layout.mixmox.com Arrival and Departure signs: https://remotesign.mixmox.com
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LongHairedDavid		#194 Posted : 24 August 2019 11:23:53(UTC) Retweet
Joined: 04/01/2019(UTC) Posts: 344 Location: England, Ipswich		Originally Posted by: DaleSchultz Originally Posted by: LongHairedDavid I rather hoped that someone would list the components required. when complete, I will do just that.... Thank you.
		Long Haired David AKA David Pennington A mystified Maerklin Newbie
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DaleSchultz		#195 Posted : 18 November 2020 19:13:09(UTC) Retweet
Joined: 10/02/2006(UTC) Posts: 4,044 Location: In the process of moving to the UK		So, at long last, I have an update on this project.... I have installed an entire train using a DROK DC-DC converter and it works very well. See https://cabin-layout.mixmox.com/2020/11/whole-train-lighting.html for details.... I have also written up the whole LED circuit design explanation, starting from the basics and working up to train lighting..... That is at https://cabin-layout.mixmox.com/2019/10/modelling-with-leds.html
		Dale Intellibox + own software, K-Track My current layout: https://cabin-layout.mixmox.com Arrival and Departure signs: https://remotesign.mixmox.com
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dominator		#196 Posted : 18 November 2020 21:45:20(UTC) Retweet
Joined: 20/01/2015(UTC) Posts: 1,205 Location: Kerikeri		Current conducting couplers are cheaper when you make your own. I like the idea of being able to uncouple the coaches easily if needed. Even my tin plate couches are easily uncoupled as a result of the 1.25 Jc 2 pin socket connectors. The DC-DC converters I bought were useless so went for the micro bridge rectifiers, 2 x 1000UF capacitors and resistors instead . I dont get any flickering at all. Time consuming but very worthwhile. See my post under HO. Dereck
		Northland. NZ
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DaleSchultz		#197 Posted : 18 November 2020 21:55:57(UTC) Retweet
Joined: 10/02/2006(UTC) Posts: 4,044 Location: In the process of moving to the UK		yes, being able to uncouple them is nice. I may yet experiment with tiny plugs if I find the whole train stuff is unmanageable. I wonder if the plugs could somehow be merged with the 3D printed permanent couplers.... I think I did see your post - nice work.
		Dale Intellibox + own software, K-Track My current layout: https://cabin-layout.mixmox.com Arrival and Departure signs: https://remotesign.mixmox.com
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Minok		#198 Posted : 19 November 2020 01:27:30(UTC) Retweet
Joined: 15/10/2006(UTC) Posts: 2,323 Location: Washington, Pacific Northwest		They have magnetically bound current conducting couplers as well, but as you said, its not free at $15 a coupling if its an EU export. Getting them direct from the China factory is probably cheaper. For what they are I'd think they could be sold direct from China for $5. https://meisesmobacenter...stromfuehrend-2-stk.html
		Toys of tin and wood rule! --- My Layout Thread on marklin-users.net: InterCity 1-3-4 My YouTube Channel: https://youtube.com/@intercity134
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5HorizonsRR		#199 Posted : 19 November 2020 03:05:34(UTC) Retweet
Joined: 05/12/2004(UTC) Posts: 3,042 Location: CA, USA		Originally Posted by: DaleSchultz So, at long last, I have an update on this project.... I have installed an entire train using a DROK DC-DC converter and it works very well. See https://cabin-layout.mixmox.com/2020/11/whole-train-lighting.html for details.... I have also written up the whole LED circuit design explanation, starting from the basics and working up to train lighting..... That is at https://cabin-layout.mixmox.com/2019/10/modelling-with-leds.html Hi Dale! Well done! This is exactly the sort of solution I've been dreaming of. I seemed to have gotten the concept 75% right on my own, but botched a few ideas along the way. A few small questions for you if you don't mind, regarding the DC-DC converter method: 1- Do I read correctly that they can be turned on or off? (usage case: I normally run digital, but one day want to run the consist on analogue and not have the lighting go crazy or burn out. Simply turn the lights off via the converter and I'm good?) 2- you mention the converter having a pot for dimming. In a usage case with a 5 car consist, if I added or deleted a car or two, I could simply adjust the pot, correct? As opposed to the resistor method where consist length cannot be altered? If both those scenarios work out, these are worth the extra money to go that route on my end. I'm excited to give it a go this winter, possibly even converting the whole fleet!
		SBB Era 2-5
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dominator		#200 Posted : 19 November 2020 03:40:43(UTC) Retweet
Joined: 20/01/2015(UTC) Posts: 1,205 Location: Kerikeri		Hi Dale. The plugs do need a wee bit if effort to plug together or unplug, so maybe might not be able to be integrated withe the 3D printed couplers. That is beyond my capabilities though. For what little they cost, and the limited number of times I remove them, its worth it. Those magnet ones do look good Minok but at NZ $21.70 per pair [ U S $15.00 ] , that's more than some of my coaches cost. I enjoy the challenge of what I have done so far and I guess that's part of the hobby. I have made a few purchasing stuff ups though but its peanuts really compared to the Marklin values in general. Well done Dale. I have followed your posts closely when I have had time. You put a lot of effort into them, and it's obvious you enjoy what you are doing. Keep up the good work. Dereck
		Northland. NZ
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