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Offline Zme  
#1 Posted : 24 January 2017 01:01:20(UTC)
Zme

United States   
Joined: 02/10/2013(UTC)
Posts: 842
Location: West Texas
Hello everyone, I have been watching YouTube videos of Ultrasonic Jewelry Cleaners being used to clean parts for z scale Locos etc. I have even seen where the electric motor is emerged in a liquid and the dirt can actually be seen streaming off.

Has anyone had experience with the use of these? If okay, what precautions should be taken with these units? What is a useful feature to look for with these cleaners? Is it really okay to add an electric motor in a liquid and what kind of liquid should be used?

I am really interested and may purchase one. It takes hours of brushing and rubbing to get parts clean, if I can use one of these safely, and save time, I am all for it. Let me know what you think especially if you are currently using them.

Thanks.
Offline Bigdaddynz  
#2 Posted : 24 January 2017 05:28:43(UTC)
Bigdaddynz

New Zealand   
Joined: 17/09/2006(UTC)
Posts: 18,764
Location: New Zealand
There have been a number of previous threads on the forum discussing ultrasonic cleaners

https://www.marklin-users.net/fo...ing-solution-for-engines

https://www.marklin-users.net/fo...-to-clean-Marklin-TT-800

https://www.marklin-users.net/fo...-to-make-a-total-upgrade

https://www.marklin-users.net/fo...osts/t12601-3004-Rebuild

https://www.marklin-users.net/fo...4471-Ultrasonic-cleaners

https://www.marklin-users.net/fo...6551-Ultrasonic-Cleaners

Most sellers of ultrasonic cleaners that I have seen recommend using tap water along with a bit of detergent. You obviously would not put anything with electronics in water, so the electronics would have to be removed first.

Alternatively, there is a jewelry cleaning solution available which you might be able to source from somewhere closer to home.

This is on a NZ auction site - http://www.trademe.co.nz/jewell...r/auction-1244706900.htm
thanks 1 user liked this useful post by Bigdaddynz
Offline Chook  
#3 Posted : 26 January 2017 07:11:01(UTC)
Chook

Australia   
Joined: 15/08/2012(UTC)
Posts: 234
Location: Perth, Western Australia.
Dave I had had to repair a video camera which was immersed in salt water to a depth of 2 metres for an hour and not given to me until 5 weeks after the event. I learned a lot to get it working reliably but the process was to immerse the whole thing back into distilled water and brush every thing clean followed by the same process into alcohol then drying. Most of the damage was caused because the unit still had battery power connected which caused aggressive electrolysis until the battery finally went flat. Components which were affected by this had to be replaced. So in effect using water on electronic components is fine as long as you dry them thoroughly before corrosion has a chance to begin. I have not used ultrasonics but would assume that they penetrate deeper and so must be dried more thoroughly. Just don't take the drying temperature above the most heat susceptible component on the printed circuit board. I have also had experience with my wifes watch and vehicle remote control after water immersion - don't ask!!


Regards.........Chook.
thanks 1 user liked this useful post by Chook
Offline DamonKelly  
#4 Posted : 26 January 2017 14:26:43(UTC)
DamonKelly

Australia   
Joined: 26/03/2006(UTC)
Posts: 1,423
Location: Brisbane, QLD
Originally Posted by: Chook Go to Quoted Post
Dave I had had to repair a video camera which was immersed in salt water to a depth of 2 metres for an hour and not given to me until 5 weeks after the event. I learned a lot to get it working reliably but the process was to immerse the whole thing back into distilled water and brush every thing clean followed by the same process into alcohol then drying. Most of the damage was caused because the unit still had battery power connected which caused aggressive electrolysis until the battery finally went flat. Components which were affected by this had to be replaced. So in effect using water on electronic components is fine as long as you dry them thoroughly before corrosion has a chance to begin. I have not used ultrasonics but would assume that they penetrate deeper and so must be dried more thoroughly. Just don't take the drying temperature above the most heat susceptible component on the printed circuit board. I have also had experience with my wifes watch and vehicle remote control after water immersion - don't ask!!


Regards.........Chook.


Correct.
Nowdays, electronic PCBs are cleaned with water based processes, so they are "water-proof".
The secret is to let them dry thoroughly. Using distilled water is good.
Washing with alcohol is a good method -- wash with distilled water, then (isopropol) alcohol, then blow-dry. Another water wash may be needed. A toothbrush to scrub thing out helps.

The "reflow" soldering process involves temperatures of about 200C or more, so temperature itself isn't a problem.
A judiciously applied domestic hairdryer is an excellent drying tool. Just watch the "spot temperatures" ... ie. local heat spots. Keep waving that hairdryer around!

Note that the temperature limits of the PCB may be somewhat higher than the whole device, since the plastic housing, batteries and membrane switches may be much more fragile.

Trust me, I'm an electronic engineer (he says to the ladies, to little effect...Blink )
Cheers,
Damon
thanks 1 user liked this useful post by DamonKelly
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