On some of my loks the raised white lettering has worn off. I have tried to redo with a paint brush but with no success. Has any one found out a better way of doing it? Thanks-Fred.

Thanks for the reply but what is a water slide paper (whiteout?)

Hi.

It's a special sheet of paper with a film, that you print what do you want, spray some fix, cut the print, put the piece of paper in a small plate with water, wait 30 sec., and slide the film to where you created the print.

It's more easy than the instructions...

Something like this:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/...&hash=item4ac552d508

Very common on model cars and airplanes.

Regards,

Walter

Otherwise known as 'Transfers', very common in plastic kits, ie Faller, also model cars, airplanes etc.

However those suggestions won't actually help because as per the original message, the lettering has come off RAISED numbers which I am taking to mean lettering etc which is actually molded as part of the design, rather than lettering applied to a flat surface (and is where a transfer would work well but is not at all suitable for touching up raised lettering).

The topic has been discussed before, various techniques include a VERY steady hand and a fine paint brush and various other suggestions.

I have personally experimented with various methods, one which I had some encouraging success with was to use normal pencil rubber (eraser), onto which I spray-painted a very fine single coat, then while it was still wet I carefully pressed it up against the raised lettering. It was not bad but needs more time and practice to determine if I could make this work.

Another suggestion was to mask around and then spray the area of the raised lettering with very fine covering of something like WD40, then use a paper towel or tissue to carefully wipe off just the tops of the raised letters to dry them, then give a quick spray of paint which should only stick to the dry raised lettering surfaces. Once the paint has dried then clean off the protective film by blotting and pressing into the recesses.

Don't try anything on a good model until you have a method that works well while you develop your skill. An old 3000 body is perfect as they are easy to find with raised lettering usually worn off.

I'd certainly be interested to hear how you get on

Cheers

Steve

It's in one of the threads linked already, but here is how I did the raised stuff on my souped up BR 23/DA 800 straight from the source



Note that while I used white, the correct colour should actually be polished steel, which Humbrol and Gunze to name a few offer as paint which you can buff to make it look real good.

Cheers,
Rick

Even if the topic has now gone elsewhere ...


... also known as "Decals" ... good key word in searches for simple flat transfers ^^

Y

PS: Søren from Denmark posted it even on 25/09 ... ^^

Edited by user 28 September 2013 20:03:49(UTC)  | Reason: Søren from Denmark

Thanks everybody for your help! I rescued a Steppenferd that had seen some hard use. I installed new traction tires, brushes, reversing spring and some LaBelle 108 oil to make it run again. This Marklin lok 3003 has a series number 24 058 and has a manual reversing switch also. I decided to touch the body to match the mechanical inside. I used Polly Scale steam powder black and Testors satin red. I used cookie nz idea with a eraser which did not turn out bad one my first for the worn out lettering. See below for results.

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Thanks again everyone-Fred

May sound obvious, but have you tried dry-brushing it?. It is easy and works fine in most scenarios.

Hi Steve. I have got no pictures at hand, but will make some and post them later today. I really think it is not that difficult.

Regards.

I've found a way of lettering older locos by spraying white paint sparsely onto a sheet of paper the size you want to print and than place the lettering over the paint.

regards.,

John

I did these two with a fine brush loaded with very little paint. Notice that I did not try to pick out the "Marklin" wording above the numbers on the cabsides. I'm pretty sure this is how it would have been done at the factory. Bear in mind that a brand new model just out of the mould will have much more crisp lettering and numbering which is easier to paint.