 Joined: 11/05/2013(UTC) Posts: 488
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On some of my loks the raised white lettering has worn off. I have tried to redo with a paint brush but with no success. Has any one found out a better way of doing it? Thanks-Fred.
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 Joined: 31/05/2011(UTC) Posts: 868 Location: Brazil
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Originally Posted by: SteamNut  On some of my loks the raised white lettering has worn off. I have tried to redo with a paint brush but with no success. Has any one found out a better way of doing it? Thanks-Fred. Hello Fred! At that size, I do not think anything other than use a waterslide paper. Regards, Walter
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Joined: 11/05/2013(UTC) Posts: 488
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Thanks for the reply but what is a water slide paper (whiteout?)
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Joined: 09/12/2011(UTC) Posts: 2,533 Location: VA
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 1 user liked this useful post by BrandonVA
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Joined: 31/05/2011(UTC) Posts: 868 Location: Brazil
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Originally Posted by: SteamNut Thanks for the reply but what is a water slide paper (whiteout?) Hi. It's a special sheet of paper with a film, that you print what do you want, spray some fix, cut the print, put the piece of paper in a small plate with water, wait 30 sec., and slide the film to where you created the print. It's more easy than the instructions...  Something like this: http://www.ebay.com/itm/...&hash=item4ac552d508Very common on model cars and airplanes. Regards, Walter
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1 user liked this useful post by waorb
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 Joined: 18/08/2007(UTC) Posts: 1,081 Location: Denmark
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2 users liked this useful post by sjlauritsen
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 Joined: 31/12/2010(UTC) Posts: 4,000 Location: Paremata, Wellington
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Originally Posted by: SteamNut Thanks for the reply but what is a water slide paper (whiteout?) Otherwise known as 'Transfers', very common in plastic kits, ie Faller, also model cars, airplanes etc. However those suggestions won't actually help because as per the original message, the lettering has come off RAISED numbers which I am taking to mean lettering etc which is actually molded as part of the design, rather than lettering applied to a flat surface (and is where a transfer would work well but is not at all suitable for touching up raised lettering). The topic has been discussed before, various techniques include a VERY steady hand and a fine paint brush and various other suggestions. I have personally experimented with various methods, one which I had some encouraging success with was to use normal pencil rubber (eraser), onto which I spray-painted a very fine single coat, then while it was still wet I carefully pressed it up against the raised lettering. It was not bad but needs more time and practice to determine if I could make this work. Another suggestion was to mask around and then spray the area of the raised lettering with very fine covering of something like WD40, then use a paper towel or tissue to carefully wipe off just the tops of the raised letters to dry them, then give a quick spray of paint which should only stick to the dry raised lettering surfaces. Once the paint has dried then clean off the protective film by blotting and pressing into the recesses. Don't try anything on a good model until you have a method that works well while you develop your skill. An old 3000 body is perfect as they are easy to find with raised lettering usually worn off. I'd certainly be interested to hear how you get on Cheers Steve |
Cookee Wellington  |
1 user liked this useful post by cookee_nz
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Joined: 18/08/2007(UTC) Posts: 1,081 Location: Denmark
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Originally Posted by: cookee_nz However those suggestions won't actually help because as per the original message, the lettering has come off RAISED numbers which I am taking to mean lettering etc which is actually molded as part of the design, rather than lettering applied to a flat surface (and is where a transfer would work well but is not at all suitable for touching up raised lettering). Yeah, you might be right. Perhaps if SteamNut provides a picture of the problem, we could be more accurate in our responses. A picture would help a lot - or perhaps locomotive class / product number. |
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Joined: 02/01/2009(UTC) Posts: 1,067 Location: Auckland, New Zealand
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It's in one of the threads linked already, but here is how I did the raised stuff on my souped up BR 23/DA 800 straight from the source Originally Posted by: kariosls37 ... The other things to be painted white were the running numbers. Plan A was to carefully paint the numbers by hand. I very quickly realised that it was not going to work. Off to plan B then. this involved first painting the whole number plate white. I left it overnight to completely cure the paint ready for the next step. The next day I painted the whole number plate, including numbers black. While the paint was still wet, I stretched a bit of clean cloth over my finger, and lightly brushed the paint off the raised surfaces. If you work carefully, you get this:  Note that while I used white, the correct colour should actually be polished steel, which Humbrol and Gunze to name a few offer as paint which you can buff to make it look real good. Cheers, Rick
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2 users liked this useful post by kariosls37
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Joined: 04/03/2009(UTC) Posts: 149 Location: Denmark
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Originally Posted by: cookee_nz
Another suggestion was to mask around and then spray the area of the raised lettering with very fine covering of something like WD40, then use a paper towel or tissue to carefully wipe off just the tops of the raised letters to dry them, then give a quick spray of paint which should only stick to the dry raised lettering surfaces. Once the paint has dried then clean off the protective film by blotting and pressing into the recesses.
Inspired by Steve's suggestions above, I got the idea to use some kind of wax (beeswax, candle or whatever) to fill the gaps between the lettering, flatten the top flush with the letters, paint it and remove the wax after the paint has dried. You need to use some solvent that takes away the wax, but not the paint, of course. I think maybe you can remove beeswax with hot water and a toothbrush, but try it out first. Jens |
Best regards,
Jens
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This account is no longer active
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1 user liked this useful post by TouchCab
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Joined: 20/03/2011(UTC) Posts: 1,660 Location: Paris, France
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Originally Posted by: waorb ... waterslide paper ... Even if the topic has now gone elsewhere ... Originally Posted by: cookee_nz Otherwise known as 'Transfers' ... ... also known as "Decals" ... good key word in searches for simple flat transfers ^^ Y  PS: Søren from Denmark posted it even on 25/09 ... ^^ Edited by user 28 September 2013 20:03:49(UTC)
| Reason: Søren from Denmark |
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Joined: 31/12/2010(UTC) Posts: 4,000 Location: Paremata, Wellington
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Originally Posted by: Yumgui Originally Posted by: waorb ... waterslide paper ... Even if the topic has now gone elsewhere ... Originally Posted by: cookee_nz Otherwise known as 'Transfers' ... ... also known as "Decals" ... good key word in searches for simple flat transfers ^^ Y DECALS !! - Yes that's the word I was looking for, fancy being told by a Frenchman how to use my own language - oh the shame  Thanks Yum, once again you are to the rescue  |
Cookee Wellington |
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Joined: 11/05/2013(UTC) Posts: 488
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Thanks everybody for your help! I rescued a Steppenferd that had seen some hard use. I installed new traction tires, brushes, reversing spring and some LaBelle 108 oil to make it run again. This Marklin lok 3003 has a series number 24 058 and has a manual reversing switch also. I decided to touch the body to match the mechanical inside. I used Polly Scale steam powder black and Testors satin red. I used cookie nz idea with a eraser which did not turn out bad one my first for the worn out lettering. See below for results. [img]  [/img] Thanks again everyone-Fred
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1 user liked this useful post by SteamNut
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Joined: 20/03/2011(UTC) Posts: 1,660 Location: Paris, France
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Good news Steamnut ! Looks good, gotta start somewhere ... And Steve, Gotta remember that I'm actually an roaming 'merican living here in FRA ^^, state of fact for which FD is 90% responsible, and the other 10% remaining to be elucidated :) Strangely, as I understand it, the English word "decal" is derived from the french word "délacomanie" ... which gets real close to the original "waterslide paper" idea mentioned by waorb above ^^. Y  |
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1 user liked this useful post by Yumgui
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 Joined: 05/09/2011(UTC) Posts: 219
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May sound obvious, but have you tried dry-brushing it?. It is easy and works fine in most scenarios. |
Best regards.
Luis. |
1 user liked this useful post by Sparrow
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Joined: 31/12/2010(UTC) Posts: 4,000 Location: Paremata, Wellington
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Originally Posted by: Sparrow May sound obvious, but have you tried dry-brushing it?. It is easy and works fine in most scenarios. Hi Sparrow, (another handle for the thread) Have you actually tried dry-brushing raised lettering? It's VERY precise work indeed and others have tried re-touching them with a very fine brush that one would assume was only barely coated in paint. Got any examples of your own success you could add photo or video of?, a picture paints 1,000 words Cheers Steve |
Cookee Wellington |
1 user liked this useful post by cookee_nz
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Joined: 05/09/2011(UTC) Posts: 219
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Hi Steve. I have got no pictures at hand, but will make some and post them later today. I really think it is not that difficult.
Regards. |
Best regards.
Luis. |
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Joined: 05/09/2011(UTC) Posts: 219
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Hi again. I was searching for a good enough picture, but I didn´t find any that showed clearly my results with dry-brushing (wich is not that different to what Steve describes as re touching with a fine brush). Opportunely, my 3029 was in need of some touch-up, so I did it and took a video. In fact there are five videos, since I cut the brush cleaning and change of colours routines. But otherwise videos are taken in real time. The whole job took me about 30 minutes, but take into account that using a camera does not make the task easier! First and second videos show paintwork on cab´s both side numerals and Märklin lettering. I had previously painted black the remaining original paintwork. I used black and silver Vallejo acrylics. The dry-brush technique implies dipping the brush in paint, and then remove most of it with a cloth. When brush contacts the raised lettering is almost dry, so you need to pass it several times to achive the effect. Third video shows some touch-up in black to remove several rogue silver spots, and the forth shows again silver dry-brushing to complete the job. Forth video tries to show the final effect, comparing it to the numerals in the front and back of the locomotive, which had suffered fading less than those on the cab sides. To the naked eye it is difficult to tell the original paintwork from the new one, but of course you can when magnifying. Videos are HD. Remember to change youtube settings. Hope you find it interesting By the way, I have not tried Steve´s rubber technique, but sounds good. |
Best regards.
Luis. |
4 users liked this useful post by Sparrow
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 Joined: 22/01/2009(UTC) Posts: 14,879 Location: On 1965 Märklin Boulevard just around from Roco Square
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I've found a way of lettering older locos by spraying white paint sparsely onto a sheet of paper the size you want to print and than place the lettering over the paint.
regards.,
John |
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3 users liked this useful post by river6109
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Joined: 09/12/2011(UTC) Posts: 2,533 Location: VA
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Originally Posted by: Sparrow Hi again. I was searching for a good enough picture, but I didn´t find any that showed clearly my results with dry-brushing (wich is not that different to what Steve describes as re touching with a fine brush).
Opportunely, my 3029 was in need of some touch-up, so I did it and took a video. Sparrow, Thanks for these. A picture is worth 1000 words, in this case I think the video is worth more! I wonder how Marklin did these at the factory years ago? -Brandon |
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 Joined: 14/03/2005(UTC) Posts: 15,871 Location: Gibraltar, Europe
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I did these two with a fine brush loaded with very little paint. Notice that I did not try to pick out the "Marklin" wording above the numbers on the cabsides. I'm pretty sure this is how it would have been done at the factory. Bear in mind that a brand new model just out of the mould will have much more crisp lettering and numbering which is easier to paint.   |
Ray
Mostly Marklin.Selection of different eras and European railways
Small C track layout, control by MS2, 100+ trains but run 4-5 at a time.
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4 users liked this useful post by RayF
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Joined: 07/06/2013(UTC)
Posts: 432
Location: Florida
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Originally Posted by: SteamNut On some of my loks the raised white lettering has worn off. I have tried to redo with a paint brush but with no success. Has any one found out a better way of doing it? Thanks-Fred. I responded yesterday, September 27th, 2013, to another post on the same subject. Here is a link: https://www.marklin-user...bers-etc.aspx#post336539Scroll down to near the bottom and you will see how I did it. It works very well. Peter B. |
Peter B.
In Sunny Florida most of the time.
Marklin, Trix Express, Trix Twin, Fleischmann, Liliput, Hornby Dublo, and Others, 2 & 3 Rail, AC, DC and Digital, Course Scale Wheels & Fine, 1935 to 1960s usually. |
1 user liked this useful post by mb300e4m
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