Joined: 31/12/2010(UTC) Posts: 4,013 Location: Paremata, Wellington
|
I have a number of loco's that are in generally good condition but where the "Marklin" word and the road number have been worn away from handling.
These raised details are really small and I'm curious to know how others have found the best way to bring the lettering and numbering back to life.
I have a couple of old 3000 bodies to use as my practise target before moving on to other items.
Looking at various videos from the factory, it seems they use a rubber block on some processes (Tamping?) and I'm assuming that the rubber block carries the absolute finest film of paint so there is no bleeding across of run-off (maybe not the correct term).
Even the absolute finest paint brush seems to be the wrong way but I've seen many repaints posted here where this has been done so there has obviously got to be a way (or several).
This is for existing raised printing so decals etc are not an option - I just want to get that fine film of paint back onto the top of those letters and numbers.
Appreciate any input from those who have done it.
And what is the correct colour, is it white? (seems to be more of a silver)
Cheers
Cookee Melbourne |
Cookee Wellington  |
 1 user liked this useful post by cookee_nz
|
|
|
Joined: 29/07/2007(UTC) Posts: 1,438 Location: Switzerland
|
I think you are on the right track concerning the "rubber block" or a miniature paint roller. At least that was I was told by the old-timers at HAG, a Swiss manufacturer who also had raised lettering and numbering on their models until the end of the 1960's. These tips here come from a different hobby field, but I think they also apply to what you are attempting: http://antiqueradios.com...opic.php?f=7&t=58935A second method instead of brushes is the use of a fine paint marker.
|
 1 user liked this useful post by Unholz
|
|
|
Joined: 23/08/2006(UTC) Posts: 2,597 Location: Beverly, MA
|
Hi Cookee,all, >Looking at various videos from the factory, it seems they use a rubber block on some processes (Tamping?) and I'm assuming that the rubber block carries the absolute finest film of paint so there is no bleeding across of run-off (maybe not the correct term).< I think it's 'tampon' >Even the absolute finest paint brush seems to be the wrong way but I've seen many repaints posted here where this has been done so there has obviously got to be a way (or several).< I have done it with a very fine brush(0000),time consuming and a steady hand to say the least,.... >Appreciate any input from those who have done it.< I have not done it but a way to do it is to follow the 'tampon', a very small fine sponge,dipped in paint and then blotted on paper so only a thin layer of paint is left.Then carefully apply it to the raise numbers/letters.It make take several applications.You still may need to touch up the surrounding areas. >And what is the correct colour, is it white? (seems to be more of a silver)< Silver/steel would be closer to the prototype. Dr D
|
|
|
|
Joined: 31/12/2010(UTC) Posts: 4,013 Location: Paremata, Wellington
|
Originally Posted by: kbvrod  Hi Cookee,all, >Looking at various videos from the factory, it seems they use a rubber block on some processes (Tamping?) and I'm assuming that the rubber block carries the absolute finest film of paint so there is no bleeding across of run-off (maybe not the correct term).< I think it's 'tampon' >Even the absolute finest paint brush seems to be the wrong way but I've seen many repaints posted here where this has been done so there has obviously got to be a way (or several).< I have done it with a very fine brush(0000),time consuming and a steady hand to say the least,.... >Appreciate any input from those who have done it.< I have not done it but a way to do it is to follow the 'tampon', a very small fine sponge,dipped in paint and then blotted on paper so only a thin layer of paint is left.Then carefully apply it to the raise numbers/letters.It make take several applications.You still may need to touch up the surrounding areas. >And what is the correct colour, is it white? (seems to be more of a silver)< Silver/steel would be closer to the prototype. Dr D Appreciate the feedback, I'm sure I'm not the first to face this "how do I do that" issue? With three females in the house, I try to avoid that word wherever possible, otherwise the teen and pre-teen think I'm just trying to gross them out - (although teen-grossing is a fun game!!) I'm leaning toward the rubber method, what I'm also thinking is a very light spray of paint onto the rubber, then allow it to almost dry, still wet enough to transfer, but not able to run or go where there is no direct contact or pressure. Re-detailing the raised lettering can make all the difference to a model which is otherwise ok. With die-cast models I could simply lightly sand off any remaining paint and just allow the colour of the underlying alloy be the raised emphasis but you can't do that with plastic. I'll wait a bit and see what others may suggest Thanks Steve |
Cookee Wellington  |
 1 user liked this useful post by cookee_nz
|
|
|
Joined: 02/01/2009(UTC) Posts: 1,067 Location: Auckland, New Zealand
|
I have succesfully repainted the raised lettering on my BR 23 by first giving the whole plate, raised and unraised stuff a coat of the number colour(I used white, but I now see that polished steel is more appropiate. Thanks Tom!) Once the above coat has cured thoroughly, I give everything a coat of black, and with a thin rag stretched over my finger I wipe the still wet paint off the raised areas, revealing the numbering colour. More detail and results can be found in my thread on overhauling a BR 23: https://www.marklin-users.net/forum/yaf_postsm301041_Overhauling-a-BR-23.aspx#post301041Good luck, Rick
|
|
|
|
Joined: 20/03/2011(UTC) Posts: 1,660 Location: Paris, France
|
Tampons, rubbers ... omg ! I'll also try the "dauber" (or dabber) concept, very cool ... Have previously done it with a POSCA fine tipped "uni" silver marker; was dicey though ^^ Good info ! Yum |
|
 1 user liked this useful post by Yumgui
|
|
|
Joined: 23/08/2006(UTC) Posts: 2,597 Location: Beverly, MA
|
Hi Steve,all, >With three females in the house, I try to avoid that word wherever possible, otherwise the teen and pre-teen think I'm just trying to gross them out - (although teen-grossing is a fun game!!) And a few others? >I'm leaning toward the rubber method, what I'm also thinking is a very light spray of paint onto the rubber, then allow it to almost dry, still wet enough to transfer, but not able to run or go where there is no direct contact or pressure.< Let us know how you make out. Dr D
|
|
|
|
Joined: 07/06/2013(UTC) Posts: 432 Location: Florida
|
Originally Posted by: cookee_nz  I have a number of loco's that are in generally good condition but where the "Marklin" word and the road number have been worn away from handling.
These raised details are really small and I'm curious to know how others have found the best way to bring the lettering and numbering back to life.
I have a couple of old 3000 bodies to use as my practise target before moving on to other items.
Looking at various videos from the factory, it seems they use a rubber block on some processes (Tamping?) and I'm assuming that the rubber block carries the absolute finest film of paint so there is no bleeding across of run-off (maybe not the correct term).
Even the absolute finest paint brush seems to be the wrong way but I've seen many repaints posted here where this has been done so there has obviously got to be a way (or several).
This is for existing raised printing so decals etc are not an option - I just want to get that fine film of paint back onto the top of those letters and numbers.
Appreciate any input from those who have done it.
And what is the correct colour, is it white? (seems to be more of a silver)
Cheers
Cookee Melbourne Hi Cookie, I just found your post about painting raised lettering and came upon a solution some time ago by trial and error. The key was to find a wooden pencil with an eraser attached to the end. Who remembers them? Using an xacto knife the sides of the eraser were shaved to form a rectangular end (on the eraser) about 3mm by5mm give or take a bit. Then I took some white enamel paint and applied it to a piece of shiny cardboard with a small brush, making sure that the paint was thinly spread. Then dabbing the eraser end in the paint ensuring the rectangular end was covered in paint, thinly of course, The end was lightly pressed against the raised lettering. Perfect results were achieved by using this method. The pencil itself provided the perfect handle to the eraser and the length of the whole thing gave good control over the application of the paint. It has seen lots of use since. I have attached a picture showing typical before and after. Peter B. mb300e4m attached the following image(s): |
Peter B. In Sunny Florida most of the time. Marklin, Trix Express, Trix Twin, Fleischmann, Liliput, Hornby Dublo, and Others, 2 & 3 Rail, AC, DC and Digital, Course Scale Wheels & Fine, 1935 to 1960s usually. |
 7 users liked this useful post by mb300e4m
|
|
|
Joined: 01/03/2008(UTC) Posts: 2,883 Location: South Western France
|
Smart trick! I'll take it as an "advanced payment" for the ROXY BLS Ae 6/8 repair recipe! Cheers |
Jacques Vuye aka Dr.Eisenbahn Once a vandal, learned to be better and had great success! |
|
|
|
Joined: 07/06/2013(UTC) Posts: 432 Location: Florida
|
Originally Posted by: jvuye  Smart trick! I'll take it as an "advanced payment" for the ROXY BLS Ae 6/8 repair recipe! Cheers Your are most welcome Jacques. I have attached a couple of pictures of the "Tool". The BLS is lurking in the background. mb300e4m attached the following image(s): |
Peter B. In Sunny Florida most of the time. Marklin, Trix Express, Trix Twin, Fleischmann, Liliput, Hornby Dublo, and Others, 2 & 3 Rail, AC, DC and Digital, Course Scale Wheels & Fine, 1935 to 1960s usually. |
 2 users liked this useful post by mb300e4m
|
|
|
Joined: 01/03/2008(UTC) Posts: 2,883 Location: South Western France
|
|
Jacques Vuye aka Dr.Eisenbahn Once a vandal, learned to be better and had great success! |
|
|
|
Joined: 25/07/2001(UTC) Posts: 11,165
|
This is indeed "tampon printing" using the same principle as in the mrr factories...
Excellent tip!!!
Could probably also work well with erasers only as well... Or any dense & slighly flexible foam/rubber product with no large surface pores... |
Juhan - "Webmaster", at your service... He who asks a question is a fool for five minutes. He who does not ask a question remains a fool forever. [Old Chinese Proverb] |
 2 users liked this useful post by Webmaster
|
|
|
Joined: 07/06/2013(UTC) Posts: 432 Location: Florida
|
Originally Posted by: Webmaster  This is indeed "tampon printing" using the same principle as in the mrr factories...
Excellent tip!!!
Could probably also work well with erasers only as well... Or any dense & slighly flexible foam/rubber product with no large surface pores... Agreed, pink or the white drafting type erasers work well too; the type used for Mylar especially when working with larger scales such as 0 or 1 gauge. I like the pencil type for H0, as it gives one excellent control. Just like when handwriting, or as we used to called it when much much younger, Joined-Up-Writing. When using the larger types for larger scales, one would need to make a holder or handle of some sort to ensure control and that the surface contacts the raised lettering all at the same time. Peter B. |
Peter B. In Sunny Florida most of the time. Marklin, Trix Express, Trix Twin, Fleischmann, Liliput, Hornby Dublo, and Others, 2 & 3 Rail, AC, DC and Digital, Course Scale Wheels & Fine, 1935 to 1960s usually. |
|
|
|
Joined: 25/07/2001(UTC) Posts: 11,165
|
One crazy idea that came into my head while reading the tip (in case pencils are not found) was to use door/window isolation foam strip tape pieces on a piece of Lego or such... |
Juhan - "Webmaster", at your service... He who asks a question is a fool for five minutes. He who does not ask a question remains a fool forever. [Old Chinese Proverb] |
 1 user liked this useful post by Webmaster
|
|
|
Joined: 07/06/2013(UTC) Posts: 432 Location: Florida
|
Originally Posted by: Webmaster  One crazy idea that came into my head while reading the tip (in case pencils are not found) was to use door/window isolation foam strip tape pieces on a piece of Lego or such... The foam would need to be very firm, otherwise the raised lettering would press into the foam too far and then much more than the lettering would get a coating of paint. Most foam strip tape available here is very soft. Peter B. |
Peter B. In Sunny Florida most of the time. Marklin, Trix Express, Trix Twin, Fleischmann, Liliput, Hornby Dublo, and Others, 2 & 3 Rail, AC, DC and Digital, Course Scale Wheels & Fine, 1935 to 1960s usually. |
 1 user liked this useful post by mb300e4m
|
|
|
Joined: 25/07/2001(UTC) Posts: 11,165
|
I'll just have to try my idea during the winter holiday... Have a couple of old plastic loco shells for testing... |
Juhan - "Webmaster", at your service... He who asks a question is a fool for five minutes. He who does not ask a question remains a fool forever. [Old Chinese Proverb] |
|
|
|
Joined: 07/06/2013(UTC) Posts: 432 Location: Florida
|
Originally Posted by: Webmaster  I'll just have to try my idea during the winter holiday... Have a couple of old plastic loco shells for testing... Sounds like a plan, I am curious to know how you make out. The more methods we know about that work, the more options members will have to meet their needs. Peter B. |
Peter B. In Sunny Florida most of the time. Marklin, Trix Express, Trix Twin, Fleischmann, Liliput, Hornby Dublo, and Others, 2 & 3 Rail, AC, DC and Digital, Course Scale Wheels & Fine, 1935 to 1960s usually. |
 1 user liked this useful post by mb300e4m
|
|
|
Forum Jump
You cannot post new topics in this forum.
You cannot reply to topics in this forum.
You cannot delete your posts in this forum.
You cannot edit your posts in this forum.
You cannot create polls in this forum.
You cannot vote in polls in this forum.