I have a number of loco's that are in generally good condition but where the "Marklin" word and the road number have been worn away from handling.

These raised details are really small and I'm curious to know how others have found the best way to bring the lettering and numbering back to life.

I have a couple of old 3000 bodies to use as my practise target before moving on to other items.

Looking at various videos from the factory, it seems they use a rubber block on some processes (Tamping?) and I'm assuming that the rubber block carries the absolute finest film of paint so there is no bleeding across of run-off (maybe not the correct term).

Even the absolute finest paint brush seems to be the wrong way but I've seen many repaints posted here where this has been done so there has obviously got to be a way (or several).

This is for existing raised printing so decals etc are not an option - I just want to get that fine film of paint back onto the top of those letters and numbers.

Appreciate any input from those who have done it.

And what is the correct colour, is it white? (seems to be more of a silver)

Cheers

Cookee
Melbourne

Hi Cookee,all,


>Looking at various videos from the factory, it seems they use a rubber block on some processes (Tamping?) and I'm assuming that the rubber block carries the absolute finest film of paint so there is no bleeding across of run-off (maybe not the correct term).<

I think it's 'tampon'

>Even the absolute finest paint brush seems to be the wrong way but I've seen many repaints posted here where this has been done so there has obviously got to be a way (or several).<

I have done it with a very fine brush(0000),time consuming and a steady hand to say the least,....

>Appreciate any input from those who have done it.<

I have not done it but a way to do it is to follow the 'tampon', a very small fine sponge,dipped in paint and then blotted on paper so only a thin layer of paint is left.Then carefully apply it to the raise numbers/letters.It make take several applications.You still may need to touch up the surrounding areas.

>And what is the correct colour, is it white? (seems to be more of a silver)<

Silver/steel would be closer to the prototype.

Dr D

I have succesfully repainted the raised lettering on my BR 23 by first giving the whole plate, raised and unraised stuff a coat of the number colour(I used white, but I now see that polished steel is more appropiate. Thanks Tom!)
Once the above coat has cured thoroughly, I give everything a coat of black, and with a thin rag stretched over my finger I wipe the still wet paint off the raised areas, revealing the numbering colour.

More detail and results can be found in my thread on overhauling a BR 23:
https://www.marklin-users.net/forum/yaf_postsm301041_Overhauling-a-BR-23.aspx#post301041

Good luck,
Rick

Hi Steve,all,


>With three females in the house, I try to avoid that word wherever possible, otherwise the teen and pre-teen think I'm just trying to gross them out - (although teen-grossing is a fun game!!)

And a few others?

>I'm leaning toward the rubber method, what I'm also thinking is a very light spray of paint onto the rubber, then allow it to almost dry, still wet enough to transfer, but not able to run or go where there is no direct contact or pressure.<

Let us know how you make out.

Dr D

Smart trick!
I'll take it as an "advanced payment" for the ROXY BLS Ae 6/8 repair recipe!
Cheers

Cool!
Thanks

Agreed, pink or the white drafting type erasers work well too; the type used for Mylar especially when working with larger scales such as 0 or 1 gauge. I like the pencil type for H0, as it gives one excellent control. Just like when handwriting, or as we used to called it when much much younger, Joined-Up-Writing.

When using the larger types for larger scales, one would need to make a holder or handle of some sort to ensure control and that the surface contacts the raised lettering all at the same time.

Peter B.

The foam would need to be very firm, otherwise the raised lettering would press into the foam too far and then much more than the lettering would get a coating of paint. Most foam strip tape available here is very soft.

Peter B.

Sounds like a plan, I am curious to know how you make out. The more methods we know about that work, the more options members will have to meet their needs.

Peter B.