I am searching for detailed information/instructions regarding the installation of reed switches. I do have the 'Controling, Switching, Running" manual but not that helpful for me on this topic. Maybe this is a simple topic but having little knowledge of electrical concepts and not currently having a sample reed, I can not picture what connections are needed. Searched the web but not much information.

I have M-track and a CS1. Looking to (possibly) obtain an S88 decoder to control switching track. Obviously, I want to first experiment. I would appreciate any references to sites that provide more detail.

Harvey

David - I see from your comment that you solder the reed switch under the M track. Do you use the Marklin reed switches or do you buy any type at all? Are the magnets mounted on the locos strong enough to activate the reed switch through the track. I may consider that option if it works. I bought a load of 5104/5105 contact tracks earlier this year, but since then Marklin technical support say that I should not use them to switch signals and points as they are not momentary contacts. Please advise me, what are really for.Thanks in advance.

Dave - thanks for that info. I see from the catalog that the reed switches are for both C and K track. Do they also fit in the old M track?

Alan, I use reed switches available from a local electronics supplier, and mount them on the top side of the M track. One of the wires from the reed switch is passed through a hole drilled in the track and soldered to the underneath of the track.


You need to be careful with the reed switches as once you bend the leads it is difficult to bend them again without breaking the glass vial of the reed switch.

Where there is room underneath a wagon, I will use some magnets available from a local variety store, otherwise the one that Marklin sell are good for wagons/locos with low clearance underneath. The magnet do need to be fairly strong, but not too strong otherwise the magnet will derail the wagon when it tries to attach itself to the metal M track.

Contact tracks are good for occupancy detection, i.e. detecting if any thing (train, loco, whatever) is sitting in a given section of track. Reed switches are better for momentary switching, and also for detecting whether a train has cleared a certain point before taking some sort of action, e.g., has the train (with a magnet on the last wagon) cleared a point before switching that point to a different setting.

Naked reed switches are available in electronics supply stores as Radio Shack and similar. Work just as fine as the expensive 7555, but you don't get a fancy plastic cover with them... Just pain the reed switch in a color that matches and they will be hard to see unless you really look for them on the layout.

Sometimes you need to cut the leads, then do invest in a wire cutter that has one straight edge. The normal cheap wire cutters have a "V" shape edge and that introduces a mechanical shock effect when cutting that may damage the internals of the reed contact inside the glass tube.

And as David says, be careful while bending the leads. Best practice is to have 2 narrow flatnose pliers, one holding the lead close to where you are bending, and another to do the bending... Sensitive bastards they are...