Due to the frequent requests of the motor parts needed to do a conversion with other decoders than the rather expensive M kits, here's the list... (Thanks Bigdaddynz, Guus & H0)


Partnumbers for DCM motor (60901)

E386820 anchor
E389000 field magnet
E386940 motor shield
E516520 RF Chokes x 2
E601460 pair of brushes
E276770 lamp socket (incl cables) or 604180 (no cables and much cheaper)


Partnumbers in SFCM motor (60903)

E210888 anchor - 8 teeth
E224615 field magnet
E224613 motor shield
E516520 RF Chokes x 2
E601460 pair of brushes
E276770 lamp socket (incl cables) or 604180 (no cables and much cheaper)



Partnumbers in LFCM motor (60904)

E214118 anchor - 7 teeth
E210888 anchor - 8 teeth
E210882 field magnet
E214121 motor shield
E210881 motor shield (some installations may require this motor shield rather than the 214121)
E516520 RF Chokes x 2
E601460 pair of brushes
E276770 lamp socket (incl cables) or E604180 (no cables and much cheaper)



You may also want:

E231470 Soldering lugs for grounding the motor
E600760 Capacitors
E516520 RF Chokes
E601460 Brushes
E610080 Lamp bi pin 0.7 VA @ 19 V Digital
ESU 51950 Female cable kit for NEM 652 8-pin plugs (Beware! DCC colour scheme)
ESU 51967 21MTC-Adapterplatine, 21 pin adapter for mfx decoders.
HAG 501025-75 Schnittstelle 21pol. It is equivalent with the ESU, however it's already completely wired.


ESU HAMO magnets for use with existing AC motors

ESU 51960 Permanent magnet like Marklin 220560, (LFCM)
ESU 51961 Permanent magnet like Marklin 220450, (SFCM)
ESU 51962 Permanent magnet like Marklin 235690, (DCM)
ESU 51965 Permanent magnet for 3015 Crocodile and 1 Gauge AC motors

Additional items of interest

ESU 51968 - MTC connector plate with f3-f4 outputs

E784810 Motor shield screw M 3,0 x 12mm
E784820 Motor shield screw M 2,5 x 12mm


Money saving tip:

E516520 Inductors/Chokes are 3.9 uH (micro-Hendry) inductors available from local electronic component stores.

These are the ones you connect inline to the motor feeds. They look like resistors, but are not.


How do I know if a loco already is digital or not?

37xx is digital (6090 decoder, load regulation).
36xx is digital (6080 decoder, no load regulation).
35xx is analog (but regulated 5* motor)
38xx analog two-rail DC
39xx is analog (loco assembly kit).
30xx/31xx are analog
33xx is analog (with electric reversing unit)
34xx is delta (may have DIP switches or solder pads for address selection)

To have more numbers, Märklin switched to 5-digit numbers in the early '90s.
Nowadays you cannot clearly tell from the number what you'll get.

39xxx: c-sine motor or SDS
37xxx: digital (load regulation, 6090 or 6090x decoder, some with SDS motor)
36xxx: digital, some with load regulation
34xxx: delta
33xxx: delta (IIRC)
30xxx: analog or delta or digital

What is called "load regulation" in the list is when the decoder electronics compensates for eg uphill and downhill and tries to keep a constant speed with varying loads. In cars it's called "cruise control"...

Edited by moderator 27 January 2021 22:40:01(UTC)  | Reason: Added ESU 51965 magnet details

I thought about doing this, but (aside from not knowing the relevant part numbers) I read in the 03/2008 Märklin Magazine in the ongoing series about digital conversions, a recommendation to use the existing screws rather than the ones that come in the kits. I would agree with that, because the screws in the kits, in my experience, are often longer, and using them cramps the motor up too tight, causing it not to run. So, for that reason, I would stick with the existing screws.


BTW, Lutz refers to the Hamburger Insider pages, they can be found here:- http://www.hamst.de/html/umbausatze.html

Thanks for the information, Juhan and lutz.

Eric, part of the reason for the chokes is for RF suppression, but also to prevent high voltage spikes from the motor feeding back into the decoder, which could possibly damage it.

I also have never used the chokes for ESU & Hamo conversions, and so far I have had no problems.

In one conversion (3084 Br50) involving the 60760 kit, which includes the chokes, I ended up leaving one of the chokes out because, no matter how I angled it, it would prevent the body from closing properly. I was lazy really. I could have re-positioned the chokes in the tender, but I had been trying for ages and I was tired, so I just left it out. So far, I have had no trouble with it.

Ray

Perhaps its like everything Maerklin does, it is totally upwards and downwards compatibal. I admire them in their efforts.
Eric

The "chokes" (3,3-3,8 uH inductors) are there to protect the decoder from sudden voltage spikes from the motor... They have nothing to do with radio interference. They are connected between decoder drive outputs and the motor and have nothing to do with the overall layout electrical feeds...

Capacitors are however used to supress noise in the "radio" frequencies, and track capacitors shoud be removed with digital operation. Also capacitors from motor drive connections to chassis ground should be removed since they may disturb the digital signal... I know, some M digital loks (mostly 6090) have these capacitors from one motor feed to the chassis - don't ask me why...

Nev you numpty it already is a 'Sticky' topic. I asked for that when I sent the list to Juhan, and he very kindly obliged.

Have a look in the Digital section of the forum.

That's understandable. You've been looking at Lord Macca's butt cheeks!

I think it is common knowledge not to remove the chokes.
ESU does however mention to remove the capacitors.
You will find that every DCC loco that I've seen has chokes installed for the reason mentioned many times before me.
All märklin locos with a highefficiencey motors have them.
Allthough the parts list is correct, buying them from Märklin stock can be very expensive.
I've found a german firm that supplies just the conversion set without the decoder around Euro 30.00 and with an ESU lokpilot V3 an other Euro 25.00 - 30.00.
Märklin has offered an other conversion set with decoder at a much cheaper price (apparently for a restricted time until stock lasts. Can't recall the part number at the moment.
I also found the ESU 8 pole wire harness very helpful and handy just in case for any future alterations regarding decoders are concerned.

Hi John,

I get my 3.0 lokpilot decoders for US $27.99 and the magnets for $11.20 - frrom Eurolokshop.com.

I have done over 20 or 30 conversions without adding the chokes. I have checked with 2 other people who have done a lot of conversions and they do not add back chokes. I've had no problems so far. The ESU manual (as you noted) does say to take the capacitors off but it does not say or show anything in their diagrams about adding chokes.
I'm a little surprised that yours is the only response to my original post.

I have also had no problems with leaving the old bulbs in as the 3.0 version of the decoder seems to have plenty of output for the old bulb. I have replaced the screw in type bulbs with the new LEDs with built in resistors and they are great.
Eric

Hi,
You comment on the ESU magnet price. I thought they were cheaper than the Marklin ones. Are there other cheaper ones available? See www.trainaidsa.com for screw in type leds with built in resistors.
Thanks,
Eric

Welcome to the forum, Peter.

Eric,
the price I've quoted was not just for the magnet it is a whole conversion set without the decoder.
The conversion parts are made by märklin and not by ESU.
Esu does however sell or offer magnets for conversions of analog locos without changing the armature and the motorshield.
The Märklin conversion kit is sold as mentioned before by kikiluky (ebay seller)

Peter,

can you give me a couple of Mouser reference items for these chockes? I bought in the past but can't find them anymore.

Thanks

That was the first thing I discovered!

Even with the motor cover upside down, there is still very little room for the chokes.

Sorry being so late for the answer you've asked:
Yes it is the firm you've mentioned.
BR 50, I've put mine in the tender.

3001 (E 63)is another loco which has difficulties using screws for a highefficiency motor.
the right hand bottom screw does'nt fit because the wheel obstructs the entry point. I've used a countersunk screw.

John

Eric, use them (chokes) for the reasons Juhan gives in his post. Better to be safe than sorry, especially over a few cents!

Thanks Thomas.

Thomas, you can buy the individual parts to make up the kit. Our Marklin dealer here in NZ has them all.

www.toottoot.co.nz

You may need to view kikiluky's items for sale from ebay.de rather than ebay.com as items may not necessarily be advertised on ebay.com. She currently has 2 motor kits available, one for 60903 and one for 60904.


http://cgi.ebay.de/Maerk...hnen?hash=item3a5a0a3127


http://cgi.ebay.de/Maerk...hnen?hash=item3a5a0197b6

I've been lazy, and gone with the original bulbs.

Thomas, I live with the flicker. I may get some of the lamp holders later on and fix that, but for now I live with it.


I think kikiluky does accept Paypal for international transactions, she just doesn't advertise it. You can ask that of her if you like, she will respond quite quickly.

Juhan,

How about adding the following?


784810 motor shield screw M 3,0 x 12mm
784820 motor shield screw M 2,5 x 12mm



Regards,


Thomas

Juhan,

How about adding the 60760?

386820 anchor
389000 field magnet
386940 motor shield


Plus decoder 121 341??





Regards,


Thomas

I think I picked up an alternate to these from a local electronics store, Thomas. They aren't resistors (although they look like them), they are chokes/inductors - 3.9uH (not ohms but micro Henries).

Updated first post with clarification of 516520 Chokes/inductors alternatives...


I lied, they are 3.3uH, not 3.9uH, as I originally said, and they are called RF Chokes, which is what they are for, suppressing radio frequency interference. See http://www.jaycar.co.nz/...MIT.x=30&SUBMIT.y=10 I've changed the descriptions and values in the first post to suit. /BDNZ