Motor parts for digital conversion of M locos...

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Webmaster		#1 Posted : 02 September 2008 22:23:18(UTC) Retweet
Joined: 25/07/2001(UTC) Posts: 11,165		Due to the frequent requests of the motor parts needed to do a conversion with other decoders than the rather expensive M kits, here's the list... (Thanks Bigdaddynz, Guus & H0) Partnumbers for DCM motor (60901) E386820 anchor E389000 field magnet E386940 motor shield E516520 RF Chokes x 2 E601460 pair of brushes E276770 lamp socket (incl cables) or 604180 (no cables and much cheaper) Partnumbers in SFCM motor (60903) E210888 anchor - 8 teeth E224615 field magnet E224613 motor shield E516520 RF Chokes x 2 E601460 pair of brushes E276770 lamp socket (incl cables) or 604180 (no cables and much cheaper) Partnumbers in LFCM motor (60904) E214118 anchor - 7 teeth E210888 anchor - 8 teeth E210882 field magnet E214121 motor shield E210881 motor shield (some installations may require this motor shield rather than the 214121) E516520 RF Chokes x 2 E601460 pair of brushes E276770 lamp socket (incl cables) or E604180 (no cables and much cheaper) You may also want: E231470 Soldering lugs for grounding the motor E600760 Capacitors E516520 RF Chokes E601460 Brushes E610080 Lamp bi pin 24mA @ 22 V for Digital use E600080 Lamp bi pin 50mA @ 19 V for Analog use ESU 51950 Female cable kit for NEM 652 8-pin plugs (Beware! DCC colour scheme) ESU 51967 21MTC-Adapterplatine, 21 pin adapter for mfx decoders. HAG 501025-75 Schnittstelle 21pol. It is equivalent with the ESU, however it's already completely wired. ESU HAMO magnets for use with existing AC motors ESU 51960 Permanent magnet like Marklin 220560, (LFCM) ESU 51961 Permanent magnet like Marklin 220450, (SFCM) ESU 51962 Permanent magnet like Marklin 235690, (DCM) ESU 51965 Permanent magnet for 3015 Crocodile and 1 Gauge AC motors Additional items of interest ESU 51968 - MTC connector plate with f3-f4 outputs E784810 Motor shield screw M 3,0 x 12mm E784820 Motor shield screw M 2,5 x 12mm Money saving tip: E516520 Inductors/Chokes are 3.9 uH (micro-Hendry) inductors available from local electronic component stores. These are the ones you connect inline to the motor feeds. They look like resistors, but are not. Note: The classic Märklin BR01 - F800 / 3008 / 3026 / 3048 / Primex 3193 - requires a special motor kit as the front brushplate has different locations of screw mountings. Part number for the kit is E188838. They are readily available on eBay - search for the part number. How do I know if a loco already is digital or not? 37xx is digital (6090 decoder, load regulation). 36xx is digital (6080 decoder, no load regulation). 35xx is analog (but regulated 5* motor) 38xx analog two-rail DC 39xx is analog (loco assembly kit). 30xx/31xx are analog 33xx is analog (with electric reversing unit) 34xx is delta (may have DIP switches or solder pads for address selection) To have more numbers, Märklin switched to 5-digit numbers in the early '90s. Nowadays you cannot clearly tell from the number what you'll get. 39xxx: c-sine motor or SDS 37xxx: digital (load regulation, 6090 or 6090x decoder, some with SDS motor) 36xxx: digital, some with load regulation 34xxx: delta 33xxx: delta (IIRC) 30xxx: analog or delta or digital What is called "load regulation" in the list is when the decoder electronics compensates for eg uphill and downhill and tries to keep a constant speed with varying loads. In cars it's called "cruise control"... Adding the chart detailing LFCM motors and whether a particular loco has a 7 tooth armature or an 8 tooth armature. Chart taken from Svein's (Intruder) website, since the versions Märklin had are no longer on the Internet. https://www.marklin-users.net/Intruder/ Click on 'Digital Conversions' then 'Large Flat Commuter motor (LCFM)' (at the bottom of the page) *List of motor conversion kits* 60941: Five Pole Motor Conversion Kit for Locos with Drum Commutator Motor (DCM) 60943: Five Pole Motor Conversion Kit for Locos with Small Flat Commutator Motor (SFCM) 60944: Five Pole Motor Conversion Kit for Locos with Large Flat Commutator Motor (LFCM) 60670: Decoder and Five Pole Motor Conversion Kit for Locos with Drum Commutator Motor (DCM) Edited by moderator 30 December 2022 05:01:30(UTC) \| Reason: Added LFCM chart
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sudibarba		#2 Posted : 03 September 2008 06:09:50(UTC) Retweet
Joined: 28/07/2006(UTC) Posts: 880 Location: Augusta, GA USA		Are the chokes really required? Eric


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Bigdaddynz		#3 Posted : 03 September 2008 09:22:38(UTC) Retweet
Joined: 17/09/2006(UTC) Posts: 18,771 Location: New Zealand		Quote: [size=1" face="Verdana" id="quote]quote:Originally posted by Hemmerich <br />What's as well useful to list are the relevant screws for the different conversions. I thought about doing this, but (aside from not knowing the relevant part numbers) I read in the 03/2008 Märklin Magazine in the ongoing series about digital conversions, a recommendation to use the existing screws rather than the ones that come in the kits. I would agree with that, because the screws in the kits, in my experience, are often longer, and using them cramps the motor up too tight, causing it not to run. So, for that reason, I would stick with the existing screws. BTW, Lutz refers to the Hamburger Insider pages, they can be found here:- http://www.hamst.de/html/umbausatze.html
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Bigdaddynz		#4 Posted : 04 September 2008 07:56:37(UTC) Retweet
Joined: 17/09/2006(UTC) Posts: 18,771 Location: New Zealand		Thanks for the advice Lutz. The 2 conversions I did with a 60901 kit were to a 3357 E103 (kit screws were OK) and to a 3353 BR120 (kit screws were too long, and cramped the motor). All my other DCM conversions have been with the 60670 kit, which does not include screws, but the original screws were OK.
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steventrain		#5 Posted : 04 September 2008 16:42:08(UTC) Retweet
Joined: 21/10/2004(UTC) Posts: 31,692 Location: United Kingdom		Thanks for the information, Juhan and lutz.
		Large Marklinist 3- Rails Layout with CS2/MS2/Boosters/C-track/favorites Electric class E03/BR103, E18/E118, E94, Crocodiles/Steam BR01, BR03, BR05, BR23, BR44, BR50, Big Boy.


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sudibarba		#6 Posted : 11 September 2008 06:46:38(UTC) Retweet
Joined: 28/07/2006(UTC) Posts: 880 Location: Augusta, GA USA		Well I guess I will ask again. I never put the chokes on my ESU & magnet conversions. No problems. I thought they were for radio interference protection which is not a problem for me. Why should we put them on? Eric


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RayF		#7 Posted : 11 September 2008 11:22:55(UTC) Retweet
Joined: 14/03/2005(UTC) Posts: 15,870 Location: Gibraltar, Europe		Eric, part of the reason for the chokes is for RF suppression, but also to prevent high voltage spikes from the motor feeding back into the decoder, which could possibly damage it. I also have never used the chokes for ESU & Hamo conversions, and so far I have had no problems. In one conversion (3084 Br50) involving the 60760 kit, which includes the chokes, I ended up leaving one of the chokes out because, no matter how I angled it, it would prevent the body from closing properly. I was lazy really. I could have re-positioned the chokes in the tender, but I had been trying for ages and I was tired, so I just left it out. So far, I have had no trouble with it. Ray
		Ray Mostly Marklin.Selection of different eras and European railways Small C track layout, control by MS2, 100+ trains but run 4-5 at a time.


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sudibarba		#8 Posted : 15 September 2008 06:04:43(UTC) Retweet
Joined: 28/07/2006(UTC) Posts: 880 Location: Augusta, GA USA		Ray, I think they have to do with the old AM radio and interference with their signal. We are mostly on cable now so it is not an issue. Anyway, in my house I have no problems with with the 30 or so I have converted with ESU magnets and decoders. Eric


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sudibarba		#9 Posted : 15 September 2008 06:08:28(UTC) Retweet
Joined: 28/07/2006(UTC) Posts: 880 Location: Augusta, GA USA		Perhaps its like everything Maerklin does, it is totally upwards and downwards compatibal. I admire them in their efforts. Eric


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Redd		#10 Posted : 03 January 2009 00:13:48(UTC) Retweet
Joined: 24/04/2008(UTC) Posts: 9 Location: Lutz, FL		Quote: [size=1" face="Verdana" id="quote]quote:Originally posted by sudibarba <br />Ray, I think they have to do with the old AM radio and interference with their signal. We are mostly on cable now so it is not an issue. Anyway, in my house I have no problems with with the 30 or so I have converted with ESU magnets and decoders. Eric Hello, Eric: The NMRA is of the opinion that noise suppression components must be removed when DCC is installed. That applies to suppressor caps on track as well. This is being presented for what it's worth. I have no preference myself. Back in the infancy of TV, my HR800 would cause horizontal streaks to run through the picture during operation of the lok. It had no suppressor coil or capacitors. The antenna feed from the roof was unprotected 300-ohm twinlead. So, once there was a need for suppressors to keep noise out of TV sets and AM radios. Redd
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Webmaster		#11 Posted : 03 January 2009 02:00:30(UTC) Retweet
Joined: 25/07/2001(UTC) Posts: 11,165		The "chokes" (3,3-3,8 uH inductors) are there to protect the decoder from sudden voltage spikes from the motor... They have nothing to do with radio interference. They are connected between decoder drive outputs and the motor and have nothing to do with the overall layout electrical feeds... Capacitors are however used to supress noise in the "radio" frequencies, and track capacitors shoud be removed with digital operation. Also capacitors from motor drive connections to chassis ground should be removed since they may disturb the digital signal... I know, some M digital loks (mostly 6090) have these capacitors from one motor feed to the chassis - don't ask me why...
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nevw		#12 Posted : 03 January 2009 02:37:39(UTC) Retweet
Joined: 27/08/2005(UTC) Posts: 11,071 Location: Murrumba Downs QLD		Webmaster could you make this a sticky. very handy. NN
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Bigdaddynz		#13 Posted : 03 January 2009 03:13:55(UTC) Retweet
Joined: 17/09/2006(UTC) Posts: 18,771 Location: New Zealand		Quote: [size=1" face="Verdana" id="quote]quote:Originally posted by nevw <br />Webmaster could you make this a sticky. very handy. NN Nev you numpty it already is a 'Sticky' topic. I asked for that when I sent the list to Juhan, and he very kindly obliged. Have a look in the Digital section of the forum.
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nevw		#14 Posted : 03 January 2009 07:17:26(UTC) Retweet
Joined: 27/08/2005(UTC) Posts: 11,071 Location: Murrumba Downs QLD		Must be going blind. twice in one day. same problem. NN going blind and senile. NO I am not blind and senile. solved. when you look at a list of Active topics U do not see the sticky bit. [:(!][^][^][^][:p]
		NOt wearing the Pink Pinny, which is hard to see and now I have a white Pinny which also is hard to see against MY pure white Skin Still have 2 new shiny tin Hips that is badly in Need of Repair matching rusting tin shoulders and a hose pipe on the aorta Junior member of the Banana Club, a reformist and an old Goat with a Bad memory, loafing around

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Bigdaddynz		#15 Posted : 03 January 2009 07:26:43(UTC) Retweet
Joined: 17/09/2006(UTC) Posts: 18,771 Location: New Zealand		Quote: [size=1" face="Verdana" id="quote]quote:Originally posted by nevw <br />NN going blind and senile. That's understandable. You've been looking at Lord Macca's butt cheeks!
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sudibarba		#16 Posted : 04 January 2009 23:32:24(UTC) Retweet
Joined: 28/07/2006(UTC) Posts: 880 Location: Augusta, GA USA		Quote: [size=1" face="Verdana" id="quote]quote:Originally posted by Webmaster <br />The "chokes" (3,3-3,8 uH inductors) are there to protect the decoder from sudden voltage spikes from the motor... They have nothing to do with radio interference. They are connected between decoder drive outputs and the motor and have nothing to do with the overall layout electrical feeds... Capacitors are however used to supress noise in the "radio" frequencies, and track capacitors shoud be removed with digital operation. Also capacitors from motor drive connections to chassis ground should be removed since they may disturb the digital signal... I know, some M digital loks (mostly 6090) have these capacitors from one motor feed to the chassis - don't ask me why... I do not see any mention of installing chokes in the ESU Lokpilot 3.0 manual. They do say to remove the capacitors. I know Marklin supplies them with their kits but ESU doesn't seem to care. Eric


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river6109		#17 Posted : 22 January 2009 11:08:28(UTC) Retweet
Joined: 22/01/2009(UTC) Posts: 14,875 Location: On 1965 Märklin Boulevard just around from Roco Square		I think it is common knowledge not to remove the chokes. ESU does however mention to remove the capacitors. You will find that every DCC loco that I've seen has chokes installed for the reason mentioned many times before me. All märklin locos with a highefficiencey motors have them. Allthough the parts list is correct, buying them from Märklin stock can be very expensive. I've found a german firm that supplies just the conversion set without the decoder around Euro 30.00 and with an ESU lokpilot V3 an other Euro 25.00 - 30.00. Märklin has offered an other conversion set with decoder at a much cheaper price (apparently for a restricted time until stock lasts. Can't recall the part number at the moment. I also found the ESU 8 pole wire harness very helpful and handy just in case for any future alterations regarding decoders are concerned.
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Bigdaddynz		#18 Posted : 22 January 2009 11:32:28(UTC) Retweet
Joined: 17/09/2006(UTC) Posts: 18,771 Location: New Zealand		John, what is the German firm you refer to. Is it one of the ebay sellers (ebay seller kikiluky provides motor part kits)? The other conversion kit you refer to is the 60760 kit, which is for DCM motor conversions only. It is still available.
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sudibarba		#19 Posted : 23 January 2009 03:59:41(UTC) Retweet
Joined: 28/07/2006(UTC) Posts: 880 Location: Augusta, GA USA		Quote: [size=1" face="Verdana" id="quote]quote:Originally posted by river6109 <br />I think it is common knowledge not to remove the chokes. ESU does however mention to remove the capacitors. You will find that every DCC loco that I've seen has chokes installed for the reason mentioned many times before me. All märklin locos with a higheffeciencey motors have them. Allthough the parts list is correct, buying them from Märklin stock can be very expensive. I've found a german firm that supplies just the conversion set without the decoder around Euro 30.00 and with an ESU lokpilot V3 an other Euro 25.00 - 30.00. Märklin has offered an other conversion set with decoder at a much cheaper price (apparently for a restricted time until stock lasts. Can't recall the part number at the moment. I also found the ESU 8 pole wire harness very helpful and handy just in case for any future alterations regarding decoders are concerned. Hi John, I get my 3.0 lokpilot decoders for US $27.99 and the magnets for $11.20 - frrom Eurolokshop.com. I have done over 20 or 30 conversions without adding the chokes. I have checked with 2 other people who have done a lot of conversions and they do not add back chokes. I've had no problems so far. The ESU manual (as you noted) does say to take the capacitors off but it does not say or show anything in their diagrams about adding chokes. I'm a little surprised that yours is the only response to my original post. I have also had no problems with leaving the old bulbs in as the 3.0 version of the decoder seems to have plenty of output for the old bulb. I have replaced the screw in type bulbs with the new LEDs with built in resistors and they are great. Eric


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river6109		#20 Posted : 23 January 2009 14:35:00(UTC) Retweet
Joined: 22/01/2009(UTC) Posts: 14,875 Location: On 1965 Märklin Boulevard just around from Roco Square		Fancy hearing that, only respond. All my locos over 200,and I don't like to sound like a rich person, have been converted. It was simple mathematic, why spend 10.000 if you can shop around and pay half of the amount. Paying that much for magnets is a bit steep, but nevertheless, still cheaper than buying the conversion kit. That's a new one for me led's with buildin resistors. I think I've heard of it. All my Märklin locos have leds, even the BR 151 (3058/3059) Have drilled a hole into the dummy red taillight and shaved away some metal on the inside to be able to insert the red led's into the 2mm hole. The bulb was replaced with a soft white led. The red led's had function 1 & 2. + the motor was converted. I also converted a Roco 2nd tender for Loco 18201 (Tender is available as a unmotorized version) added motor, sound decoder ESU V3.5 and 4 pin Roco electrical coupling. 4 Pin electrical Fleischmann coupling between tenders. Lokpilot V3 in 1st tender. this loco can now carry up to 14 carriages even up hill. all of my Passenger locos have Roco 4 pin electrical couplings on one side. I can't remember, but I've read somewhere, that it could damage the decoder, as outl;ined by a previuos message.
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sudibarba		#21 Posted : 31 January 2009 04:53:34(UTC) Retweet
Joined: 28/07/2006(UTC) Posts: 880 Location: Augusta, GA USA		Quote: [size=1" face="Verdana" id="quote]quote:Originally posted by river6109 <br />Fancy hearing that, only respond. All my locos over 200,and I don't like to sound like a rich person, have been converted. It was simple mathematic, why spend 10.000 if you can shop around and pay half of the amount. Paying that much for magnets is a bit steep, but nevertheless, still cheaper than buying the conversion kit. That's a new one for me led's with buildin resistors. I think I've heard of it. All my Märklin locos have leds, even the BR 151 (3058/3059) Have drilled a hole into the dummy red taillight and shaved away some metal on the inside to be able to insert the red led's into the 2mm hole. The bulb was replaced with a soft white led. The red led's had function 1 & 2. + the motor was converted. I also converted a Roco 2nd tender for Loco 18201 (Tender is available as a unmotorized version) added motor, sound decoder ESU V3.5 and 4 pin Roco electrical coupling. 4 Pin electrical Fleischmann coupling between tenders. Lokpilot V3 in 1st tender. this loco can now carry up to 14 carriages even up hill. all of my Passenger locos have Roco 4 pin electrical couplings on one side. I can't remember, but I've read somewhere, that it could damage the decoder, as outl;ined by a previuos message. Hi, You comment on the ESU magnet price. I thought they were cheaper than the Marklin ones. Are there other cheaper ones available? See www.trainaidsa.com for screw in type leds with built in resistors. Thanks, Eric


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digitus		#22 Posted : 04 February 2009 23:43:53(UTC) Retweet
Joined: 04/02/2009(UTC) Posts: 1 Location: Pittsburgh, PA		R: chokes Switching the motor on and off @ up to 40kHz generates a lot of spikes - I checked it out w/ an oscilloskope - especially under heavy load. This can kill the driver FETs. I recommend to install the chokes wherever there is room. SMD types may be useful in crammed space. Buy them directly at electronics distibutors (i.e. mouser.com in the US). In combination with the capacitor the chokes form a low pass keeping the spikes in check. Worked for all my conversions! Peter


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steventrain		#23 Posted : 05 February 2009 11:31:00(UTC) Retweet
Joined: 21/10/2004(UTC) Posts: 31,692 Location: United Kingdom		Welcome to the forum, Peter.
		Large Marklinist 3- Rails Layout with CS2/MS2/Boosters/C-track/favorites Electric class E03/BR103, E18/E118, E94, Crocodiles/Steam BR01, BR03, BR05, BR23, BR44, BR50, Big Boy.


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Guus		#24 Posted : 13 February 2009 19:03:46(UTC) Retweet
Joined: 13/10/2004(UTC) Posts: 2,616		ESU has a new 21 pin adapter on its products list. The adapter has the shape of a Märklin 6090 decoder and amplifiers build in for AUX 3 and AUX 4. product number 51968 http://www.esu.eu/produkte/zube.../21mtc-adapterplatine-2/ Guus
		Kind regards, Guus


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river6109		#25 Posted : 14 February 2009 01:42:59(UTC) Retweet
Joined: 22/01/2009(UTC) Posts: 14,875 Location: On 1965 Märklin Boulevard just around from Roco Square		Eric, the price I've quoted was not just for the magnet it is a whole conversion set without the decoder. The conversion parts are made by märklin and not by ESU. Esu does however sell or offer magnets for conversions of analog locos without changing the armature and the motorshield. The Märklin conversion kit is sold as mentioned before by kikiluky (ebay seller)
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MarioFabro		#26 Posted : 09 March 2009 22:17:29(UTC) Retweet
Joined: 16/10/2001(UTC) Posts: 793 Location: Pittsburgh,		Quote: [size=1" face="Verdana" id="quote]quote:Originally posted by river6109 <br />Märklin has offered an other conversion set with decoder at a much cheaper price (apparently for a restricted time until stock lasts. Can't recall the part number at the moment. Would that be Item 60760? I have ordered abnout 10 of them (31 $ -VAT at Lokshop). But these are no mfx decoders. Still good to up-grade most older models
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MarioFabro		#27 Posted : 09 March 2009 22:28:55(UTC) Retweet
Joined: 16/10/2001(UTC) Posts: 793 Location: Pittsburgh,		Quote: [size=1" face="Verdana" id="quote]quote:Originally posted by digitus <br />... Buy them directly at electronics distibutors (i.e. mouser.com in the US).... Peter, can you give me a couple of Mouser reference items for these chockes? I bought in the past but can't find them anymore. Thanks
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Bigdaddynz		#28 Posted : 09 July 2009 15:34:57(UTC) Retweet
Joined: 17/09/2006(UTC) Posts: 18,771 Location: New Zealand		Quote: [size=1" face="Verdana" id="quote]quote:Originally posted by RayPayas <br />In one conversion (3084 Br50) involving the 60760 kit, which includes the chokes, I ended up leaving one of the chokes out because, no matter how I angled it, it would prevent the body from closing properly. I was lazy really. I could have re-positioned the chokes in the tender, but I had been trying for ages and I was tired, so I just left it out. So far, I have had no trouble with it. Ray Ray, there's a 'gotcha' with the BR50. You need to mount the DCM motor cover upside down on this model type. If you put it in the normal way, the cover catches on the loco body, preventing it closing properly.
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RayF		#29 Posted : 09 July 2009 16:39:26(UTC) Retweet
Joined: 14/03/2005(UTC) Posts: 15,870 Location: Gibraltar, Europe		Quote: [size=1" face="Verdana" id="quote]quote:Originally posted by Bigdaddynz <br /> Quote: [size=1" face="Verdana" id="quote]quote:Originally posted by RayPayas <br />In one conversion (3084 Br50) involving the 60760 kit, which includes the chokes, I ended up leaving one of the chokes out because, no matter how I angled it, it would prevent the body from closing properly. I was lazy really. I could have re-positioned the chokes in the tender, but I had been trying for ages and I was tired, so I just left it out. So far, I have had no trouble with it. Ray Ray, there's a 'gotcha' with the BR50. You need to mount the DCM motor cover upside down on this model type. If you put it in the normal way, the cover catches on the loco body, preventing it closing properly. That was the first thing I discovered! Even with the motor cover upside down, there is still very little room for the chokes.
		Ray Mostly Marklin.Selection of different eras and European railways Small C track layout, control by MS2, 100+ trains but run 4-5 at a time.


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Bigdaddynz		#30 Posted : 10 July 2009 04:16:28(UTC) Retweet
Joined: 17/09/2006(UTC) Posts: 18,771 Location: New Zealand		Yes I also had problems with this, until I saw a picture of Huib Maaskant's BR50 conversion, on his website, which reminded me to fit the cover upside down.
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river6109		#31 Posted : 12 August 2009 16:54:10(UTC) Retweet
Joined: 22/01/2009(UTC) Posts: 14,875 Location: On 1965 Märklin Boulevard just around from Roco Square		Quote: [size=1" face="Verdana" id="quote]quote:Originally posted by Bigdaddynz <br />Yes I also had problems with this, until I saw a picture of Huib Maaskant's BR50 conversion, on his website, which reminded me to fit the cover upside down. Sorry being so late for the answer you've asked: Yes it is the firm you've mentioned. BR 50, I've put mine in the tender. 3001 (E 63)is another loco which has difficulties using screws for a highefficiency motor. the right hand bottom screw does'nt fit because the wheel obstructs the entry point. I've used a countersunk screw. John
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H0		#32 Posted : 23 December 2009 21:10:27(UTC) Retweet
Joined: 16/02/2004(UTC) Posts: 15,443 Location: DE-NW		Hi! Instead of 276770 lamp socket (with cables, RRP 7.99 Euro) you can also buy 604180 lamp socket (without cables, RRP 1.49 Euro): it's cheaper, but you must solder cables on ...
		Regards Tom --- "In all of the gauges, we particularly emphasize a high level of quality, the best possible fidelity to the prototype, and absolute precision. You will see that in all of our products." (from Märklin New Items Brochure 2015, page 1) ROFLBTCUTS


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Bigdaddynz		#33 Posted : 29 December 2009 07:29:01(UTC) Retweet
Joined: 17/09/2006(UTC) Posts: 18,771 Location: New Zealand		Quote: [size=1" face="Verdana" id="quote]quote:Originally posted by sudibarba <br /> Quote: [size=1" face="Verdana" id="quote]quote:Originally posted by Webmaster <br />The "chokes" (3,3-3,8 uH inductors) are there to protect the decoder from sudden voltage spikes from the motor... They have nothing to do with radio interference. They are connected between decoder drive outputs and the motor and have nothing to do with the overall layout electrical feeds... Capacitors are however used to supress noise in the "radio" frequencies, and track capacitors shoud be removed with digital operation. Also capacitors from motor drive connections to chassis ground should be removed since they may disturb the digital signal... I know, some M digital loks (mostly 6090) have these capacitors from one motor feed to the chassis - don't ask me why... I do not see any mention of installing chokes in the ESU Lokpilot 3.0 manual. They do say to remove the capacitors. I know Marklin supplies them with their kits but ESU doesn't seem to care. Eric Eric, use them (chokes) for the reasons Juhan gives in his post. Better to be safe than sorry, especially over a few cents!
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GSRR		#34 Posted : 21 April 2010 23:24:52(UTC) Retweet
Joined: 01/03/2009(UTC) Posts: 1,339 Location: USA		Link to nice photo layout of various parts. http://www.modelspoorh0....n%20en%20Esu%20info..pdf Regards, Thomas
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Bigdaddynz		#35 Posted : 22 April 2010 00:53:48(UTC) Retweet
Joined: 17/09/2006(UTC) Posts: 18,771 Location: New Zealand		Thanks Thomas.
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GSRR		#36 Posted : 22 April 2010 02:47:18(UTC) Retweet
Joined: 01/03/2009(UTC) Posts: 1,339 Location: USA		Bigdaddynz wrote: Thanks Thomas. Sure thing Dave. John, It seems that the eBay dealer kikiluky is not selling the motor sets anymore? Do you have another source offering a similar kit? Regards, Thomas
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Bigdaddynz		#37 Posted : 22 April 2010 03:44:10(UTC) Retweet
Joined: 17/09/2006(UTC) Posts: 18,771 Location: New Zealand		Thomas, you can buy the individual parts to make up the kit. Our Marklin dealer here in NZ has them all. www.toottoot.co.nz You may need to view kikiluky's items for sale from ebay.de rather than ebay.com as items may not necessarily be advertised on ebay.com. She currently has 2 motor kits available, one for 60903 and one for 60904. http://cgi.ebay.de/Maerk...hnen?hash=item3a5a0a3127 http://cgi.ebay.de/Maerk...hnen?hash=item3a5a0197b6
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GSRR		#38 Posted : 22 April 2010 04:01:00(UTC) Retweet
Joined: 01/03/2009(UTC) Posts: 1,339 Location: USA		Dave, Thanks for that. Not a problem getting the individual pieces, I just like these preassembled kits without the decoder. Should have tried ebay.de first. By the way, do you keep the original bulb, and live with the flicker or go with the newer digital type bulbs? Regards, Thomas
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Bigdaddynz		#39 Posted : 22 April 2010 04:20:02(UTC) Retweet
Joined: 17/09/2006(UTC) Posts: 18,771 Location: New Zealand		I've been lazy, and gone with the original bulbs.
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GSRR		#40 Posted : 22 April 2010 04:24:27(UTC) Retweet
Joined: 01/03/2009(UTC) Posts: 1,339 Location: USA		Do you do anything with the wiring at all, or just live with the flicker? Seems like she does not accept PayPal? Oh well.
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Bigdaddynz		#41 Posted : 22 April 2010 05:30:19(UTC) Retweet
Joined: 17/09/2006(UTC) Posts: 18,771 Location: New Zealand		Thomas, I live with the flicker. I may get some of the lamp holders later on and fix that, but for now I live with it. I think kikiluky does accept Paypal for international transactions, she just doesn't advertise it. You can ask that of her if you like, she will respond quite quickly.
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GSRR		#42 Posted : 22 April 2010 05:57:59(UTC) Retweet
Joined: 01/03/2009(UTC) Posts: 1,339 Location: USA		Bigdaddynz wrote: Thomas, I live with the flicker. I may get some of the lamp holders later on and fix that, but for now I live with it. I think kikiluky does accept Paypal for international transactions, she just doesn't advertise it. You can ask that of her if you like, she will respond quite quickly. Thanks, appreciate that. Cheers, Thomas
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GSRR		#43 Posted : 22 April 2010 07:34:25(UTC) Retweet
Joined: 01/03/2009(UTC) Posts: 1,339 Location: USA		Juhan, How about adding the following? 784810 motor shield screw M 3,0 x 12mm 784820 motor shield screw M 2,5 x 12mm Regards, Thomas
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digitaltrainshort		#44 Posted : 21 June 2010 13:52:40(UTC) Retweet
Joined: 10/06/2010(UTC) Posts: 33 Location: Serbia		Hello to all! I have one question for you: will ESU HAMO magnet(s) prevent bigger spikes on the rotor's (LFCM and SFCM) collector and minimize the damages of the collector caused by the spikes and high frequency used in Marklin digital system and make such motors to live longer? Thank You all on your time! Zarko Kristic
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GSRR		#45 Posted : 15 November 2010 19:54:16(UTC) Retweet
Joined: 01/03/2009(UTC) Posts: 1,339 Location: USA		Juhan, How about adding the 60760? 386820 anchor 389000 field magnet 386940 motor shield Plus decoder 121 341?? Regards, Thomas
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GSRR		#46 Posted : 19 January 2011 04:28:15(UTC) Retweet
Joined: 01/03/2009(UTC) Posts: 1,339 Location: USA		516520 Inductor - Choke I'm looking for an alternative to this Marklin part. There are a lot of possible combination's to choose from, appreciate any correct information. Color combo Orange, White, Gold, Silver indicates 3,9 uH with +/- 10% tolerance? Size indicates that this 1/4 watt? Type is Axial? And is this a Metal Film, or just Ceramic? r/Thomas
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Bigdaddynz		#47 Posted : 19 January 2011 04:31:47(UTC) Retweet
Joined: 17/09/2006(UTC) Posts: 18,771 Location: New Zealand		I think I picked up an alternate to these from a local electronics store, Thomas. They aren't resistors (although they look like them), they are chokes/inductors - 3.9uH (not ohms but micro Henries).
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GSRR		#48 Posted : 19 January 2011 06:00:12(UTC) Retweet
Joined: 01/03/2009(UTC) Posts: 1,339 Location: USA		Originally Posted by: Bigdaddynz I think I picked up an alternate to these from a local electronics store, Thomas. They aren't resistors (although they look like them), they are chokes/inductors - 3.9uH (not ohms but micro Henries). Thanks Dave.
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Webmaster		#49 Posted : 31 January 2011 20:06:29(UTC) Retweet
Joined: 25/07/2001(UTC) Posts: 11,165		Updated first post with clarification of 516520 Chokes/inductors alternatives... I lied, they are 3.3uH, not 3.9uH, as I originally said, and they are called RF Chokes, which is what they are for, suppressing radio frequency interference. See http://www.jaycar.co.nz/...MIT.x=30&SUBMIT.y=10 I've changed the descriptions and values in the first post to suit. /BDNZ
		Juhan - "Webmaster", at your service... He who asks a question is a fool for five minutes. He who does not ask a question remains a fool forever. [Old Chinese Proverb]
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robinpk		#50 Posted : 24 April 2011 19:53:25(UTC) Retweet
Joined: 02/11/2006(UTC) Posts: 42 Location: Los Llanos de Aridane, S/C de Tenerife (La Palma)		Dear Juhan, What kind of motor parts would I be needing for the Alaska (3462), The Warbonnet (3362) and the Rio Grande (3062)? As people are telling me they have DCM motors and others the LFCM version. Please avise Robin
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