 Joined: 15/03/2003(UTC) Posts: 9,593 Location: Australia
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What are some of the options for attaching this track to the Noch Preformed layouts?  |
Adrian Australia flag by abFlags.com |
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Joined: 04/12/2013(UTC) Posts: 2,261 Location: Hobart, Australia
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Originally Posted by: xxup  What are some of the options for attaching this track to the Noch Preformed layouts? Hi Adrian, I was interested in your post. Are you into Z track? Regards, Philip
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Joined: 15/03/2003(UTC) Posts: 9,593 Location: Australia
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Ah no.. I bought FD a z scale Christmas start set and the Noch St Anton layout for Christmas after we realised we would not be able to set up the 1 Gauge set and the big tree last Christmas. We have the track and some tiny tiny pins that don't look like they will hold the track down properly. |
AdrianAustralia flag by abFlags.com |
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Joined: 27/08/2005(UTC) Posts: 11,071 Location: Murrumba Downs QLD
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ADrian, be v. Careful of the track pins, it is very easy to deform the track. ( I have the cap and tee shirt). Use PVA glue or Hot glue as both easy to take up. as easy to take up if needed |
NOt wearing the Pink Pinny, which is hard to see and now I have a white Pinny which also is hard to see against MY pure white Skin Still have 2 new shiny tin Hips that is badly in Need of Repair matching rusting tin shoulders
and a hose pipe on the aorta
Junior member of the Banana Club, a reformist and an old Goat with a Bad memory, loafing around |
 3 users liked this useful post by nevw
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 Joined: 22/01/2014(UTC) Posts: 186 Location: CALIFORNIA, Irvine
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Märklin 8999 track nails works fine into the foam layouts ... can also use Peter Post 08056 screws. Yes screws for Märklin z tracks. |
Frank Daniels Owner - z.scale.hobo A Noch "Top Dealer" Marklin Dealer and Z Locomotive Service Irvine, California, USA www.zscalehobo.com |
2 users liked this useful post by zscalehobo
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Joined: 31/05/2018(UTC) Posts: 62 Location: Arvada
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I used a pin vice to pre-drill holes and then pushed in the Marklin Z scale nails using tweezers to attach track to my Cortina layout. It was a painstaking and time consuming task. Edited by user 21 March 2022 15:07:22(UTC)
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1 user liked this useful post by veloboldie
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Joined: 15/03/2003(UTC) Posts: 9,593 Location: Australia
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Two hundred of the tiny tiny screws arrived on Thursday. I am on the hunt for a suitable screwdriver. I may already have one, but I would really like one with a sleeve.
I have a few house things to get done first and then I will resume the layout project for FD. |
AdrianAustralia flag by abFlags.com |
1 user liked this useful post by xxup
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 Joined: 22/09/2009(UTC) Posts: 2,073 Location: Edinburgh,
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Hi Im also in the process of wondering how to secure the tracks. Having purchased some M nails, I too am not sure of their ability. Plus if I need to raise the track, a nail is not as easy to remove as a screw. I’ve had a look at the small screws but can only find them in the USA. The packets containing the screws appear to be written in German, so is there a European supplier, or is the USA the sole provider? Many thanks Mike  |
1957 - 1985 era
What's digital? |
1 user liked this useful post by hennabm
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 Joined: 23/07/2014(UTC) Posts: 8,475 Location: ENGLAND, Didcot
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Originally Posted by: hennabm Hi Im also in the process of wondering how to secure the tracks. Having purchased some M nails, I too am not sure of their ability. Plus if I need to raise the track, a nail is not as easy to remove as a screw. I’ve had a look at the small screws but can only find them in the USA. The packets containing the screws appear to be written in German, so is there a European supplier, or is the USA the sole provider? Many thanks Mike Mike, Have a look at Peco track pins. One Z scale layout I obtained used track pins to hold the track down. I think they were Peco ones. Instead of having a round head like a dressmaking pin these had the top bent sideways almost like a full size track nail. See https://peco-uk.com/products/track-fixing-pins for what I'm thinking of.
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1 user liked this useful post by kiwiAlan
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Joined: 26/07/2021(UTC) Posts: 635 Location: Sydney
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The Marklin nail is 0.55mm x 8.5mm 1.25mm head ∅. The Peco nail is 0.60mm x 14mm 1.5mm head ∅.
The Peco nail head does look a touch large on the sleeper, but it is acceptable.
Pre push a nail through the sleeper hole with the sleeper pre warmed in your hand, as holes are a bit tight, or at least warm up a touch with hair dryer, you don't need to over do the heating. If you need holes in other sleepers pre-drill with 0.5mm drill bit in a pin vise.
Because the Peco nail is so long, if you need push it into a timber base you will need to pre-drill holes or you will end up bending a few nails & breaking sleepers getting them in. You don't need the nails in so tight like a masonry anchor.
You can cut them shorter, but file or Dremel a point.
P.S. What gradient do have at the back. If you raise all the track a bit, then lower the lower rear track to split the gradient between the upper and lower level. Any gradient more than 2.5% will give you headaches later on. Just avoid it like the plague.
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1 user liked this useful post by Toosmall
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Joined: 26/07/2021(UTC) Posts: 635 Location: Sydney
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I noticed you are using the 8590 power feed track. They are ugly on a finished layout and one item that can be avoided. Unless you can hide them, solder wire on the rail. Use lead/tin solder, it's easier than tin only. 
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1 user liked this useful post by Toosmall
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Joined: 26/07/2021(UTC) Posts: 635 Location: Sydney
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Marklin nail left, Peco nail right.  I have a few old Marklin nails and they were 5.5mm long. Depending how tough the timer is, a 0.4mm pilot hole for the Marklin nail will help. Also use a nail punch, trying to hit the nail directly will cause you not to hit it square.
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1 user liked this useful post by Toosmall
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Joined: 26/07/2021(UTC) Posts: 635 Location: Sydney
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If you use the Marklin 7599 countersunk phillips head screws. Quite handy for fixing problems. They are 1.45mm ∅, so drill a pilot hole 1mm ∅ so you don't snap them off. Really hard timber say 1.2mm ∅ pilot hole.
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1 user liked this useful post by Toosmall
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Joined: 22/09/2009(UTC) Posts: 2,073 Location: Edinburgh,
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Originally Posted by: Toosmall
P.S. What gradient do have at the back. If you raise all the track a bit, then lower the lower rear track to split the gradient between the upper and lower level. Any gradient more than 2.5% will give you headaches later on. Just avoid it like the plague.
The gradient uses standard Marklin pillars at the moment and so ends up 40mm above the base. To get the height quickly the pillared are every 55mm (half straight). I have tested it with a Bo Bo electric and a 4-6-2 steamer and both climb it well. I plan to use only a rail bus or an engine and one thunder box up there as it is quite steep. Mike |
1957 - 1985 era
What's digital? |
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Joined: 26/07/2021(UTC) Posts: 635 Location: Sydney
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Try a few carriages on the loco. Most people get a bit frustrated in the long run. Even massaging the track here and there can knock off a few gradient percentage points without too much effort. Soldered power connections 
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1 user liked this useful post by Toosmall
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