 Joined: 24/11/2022(UTC) Posts: 5 Location: Binghamton, New York
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Good Evening,
I recently bought a HAG DC Ae 4/7 (135), how do I convert it ro run on analog AC? I've never tried a conversion before, but this was the only option I had at the time.
Do I need to buy a slider, and does it have to be HAG brand, or can I use one from Märklin?
Thank you,
Andy B.
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 Joined: 28/11/2007(UTC) Posts: 8,225 Location: Montreal, QC
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You will need to find the proper slider and may have to modify the wheel contacts so that the return works properly. Your best bet would be to convert it to digital AC, which would still work with an analog layout. The reason for this is that there is not a significant difference in cost between a basic Lok Pilot decoder and an electronic reverse unit. I don't know whether Hag continued the production and retained the parts/molds for the Ae 4/7, even though it was part of the "New Generation". Most of the models that have come out of Stansstad have been Re 4/4II, Re 6/6 and Re 460. You can possibly send the locomotive to Hag and have it converted by them. I did that with a DC Re 460, but that was back in the Moerschwil days. I don't know if the circuit board on the DC Ae 4/7 was the same as the AC version. The non-insulated wheel sets have a different spacing than the DC ones. Maybe Stefan (Unholz) can help you find a source for the parts. You can try Christian at eyro.ch. He may be able to help you as well. See: https://www.hag.swiss/wp...ste-Ersatzteile-2022.pdf (Gruppe 13 Ae 4/7) Regards Mike C
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 Joined: 29/07/2007(UTC) Posts: 1,435 Location: Switzerland
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Item no. 135? That would be one of the comparatively rare "Sécheron" varieties with printed road number 10951 and silver-colored ventilation grilles on one side. I am a layman but would consider a conversion to AC as difficult. The HAG slider you would need is part no. 138075-90, available for instance here: https://eyro.ch/onlinesh...03d10df8007ff5892fa4bac1
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 Joined: 22/01/2009(UTC) Posts: 14,874 Location: On 1965 Märklin Boulevard just around from Roco Square
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I prefer DC locos, they are easier to convert to AC when running them digital, as I use the pantographs as the middle contact.
John |
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Joined: 24/11/2022(UTC) Posts: 5 Location: Binghamton, New York
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I got a chance to take a look at it today, and it's already equipped with a LokPilot decoder. I was able to order a slider (thanks Stefan!), so that should be here in a week or 2.
After swapping the slider for the pickups, is there anything else I have to do?
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 Joined: 23/07/2014(UTC) Posts: 8,467 Location: ENGLAND, Didcot
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Originally Posted by: SlowOrder  I got a chance to take a look at it today, and it's already equipped with a LokPilot decoder. I was able to order a slider (thanks Stefan!), so that should be here in a week or 2.
After swapping the slider for the pickups, is there anything else I have to do? You may need to check what protocols are enabled in the decoder. There is always the possibility it is a DCC only decoder, although in Europe it is more likely to be a multi-protocol decoder, but could have some protocols turn off so that only DCC is operational. Do you know which model Lokpilot is fitted (V3, v4 or v5)?
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Joined: 24/11/2022(UTC) Posts: 5 Location: Binghamton, New York
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We got the model apart today, and it's a LokPilot V2.0. I changed out the wheel pickup for the AC slider, and it's shorting out the layout. Is there something I have to rewire on the inside? Is the 2.0 not compatible with an analog AC layout?
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Joined: 29/07/2007(UTC) Posts: 1,435 Location: Switzerland
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Sorry, misunderstanding, please delete!
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Joined: 28/11/2007(UTC) Posts: 8,225 Location: Montreal, QC
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Originally Posted by: SlowOrder We got the model apart today, and it's a LokPilot V2.0. I changed out the wheel pickup for the AC slider, and it's shorting out the layout. Is there something I have to rewire on the inside? Is the 2.0 not compatible with an analog AC layout? The DC model has wheel contacts for both sides (+ and -). To convert the model to AC, you need to remove all leads from one side to the circuit board and bridge them to the other side (common ground/return), add the AC slider and solder the wire to the terminal that you freed up. You would also need to ensure that the particular ESU Lokpilot is capable of AC operation. If you have not completely redone the connections, this will result in a connection between the live and return (short). Some models may require slight modifications to the motor as well. If you need professional assistance in your area, you can try contacting Scott at Helmut's Hobbies (VA). I don't know of any Hag experts in your immediate region. You can also contact Hag and see if they can provide you with a wiring diagram for the AC and DC versions of this model This is in German, but may help: https://www.forum.hag-in...c-ac-und-digitalisieren/Regards Mike C
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 2 users liked this useful post by mike c
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Joined: 10/02/2021(UTC) Posts: 3,884 Location: Michigan, Troy
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Yes, as Mike states, and also here is what I learned from rewiring only one pick-up shoe ever. If you are not a skilled solderer and aren't used to precise work, if the bare end of the sho lead is too long, it can short on the top of the bogie frame after the hole. If the solder point on the shoe has too much solder, it can short out on the bogie frame as the studs raise up the shoe. So recheck your work.
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