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Offline SlowOrder  
#1 Posted : 24 November 2022 02:28:39(UTC)
SlowOrder

United States   
Joined: 24/11/2022(UTC)
Posts: 4
Location: Binghamton, New York
Good Evening,

I recently bought a HAG DC Ae 4/7 (135), how do I convert it ro run on analog AC? I've never tried a conversion before, but this was the only option I had at the time.

Do I need to buy a slider, and does it have to be HAG brand, or can I use one from Märklin?

Thank you,
Andy B.
Offline mike c  
#2 Posted : 24 November 2022 05:41:21(UTC)
mike c

Canada   
Joined: 28/11/2007(UTC)
Posts: 7,545
Location: Montreal, QC
You will need to find the proper slider and may have to modify the wheel contacts so that the return works properly.
Your best bet would be to convert it to digital AC, which would still work with an analog layout. The reason for this is that there is not a significant difference in cost between a basic Lok Pilot decoder and an electronic reverse unit.

I don't know whether Hag continued the production and retained the parts/molds for the Ae 4/7, even though it was part of the "New Generation".
Most of the models that have come out of Stansstad have been Re 4/4II, Re 6/6 and Re 460.
You can possibly send the locomotive to Hag and have it converted by them. I did that with a DC Re 460, but that was back in the Moerschwil days.

I don't know if the circuit board on the DC Ae 4/7 was the same as the AC version. The non-insulated wheel sets have a different spacing than the DC ones.

Maybe Stefan (Unholz) can help you find a source for the parts. You can try Christian at eyro.ch. He may be able to help you as well.

See: https://www.hag.swiss/wp...ste-Ersatzteile-2022.pdf (Gruppe 13 Ae 4/7)

Regards

Mike C
Offline Unholz  
#3 Posted : 24 November 2022 09:55:22(UTC)
Unholz

Switzerland   
Joined: 29/07/2007(UTC)
Posts: 1,354
Location: Switzerland
Item no. 135? That would be one of the comparatively rare "Sécheron" varieties with printed road number 10951 and silver-colored ventilation grilles on one side.

I am a layman but would consider a conversion to AC as difficult. The HAG slider you would need is part no. 138075-90, available for instance here:
https://eyro.ch/onlinesh...03d10df8007ff5892fa4bac1
Offline river6109  
#4 Posted : 24 November 2022 12:11:27(UTC)
river6109

Australia   
Joined: 22/01/2009(UTC)
Posts: 14,110
Location: On 1965 Märklin Boulevard just around from Roco Square
I prefer DC locos, they are easier to convert to AC when running them digital, as I use the pantographs as the middle contact.

John
https://www.youtube.com/river6109
https://www.youtube.com/6109river
5 years in Destruction mode
50 years in Repairing mode
Offline SlowOrder  
#5 Posted : 27 November 2022 19:26:55(UTC)
SlowOrder

United States   
Joined: 24/11/2022(UTC)
Posts: 4
Location: Binghamton, New York
I got a chance to take a look at it today, and it's already equipped with a LokPilot decoder. I was able to order a slider (thanks Stefan!), so that should be here in a week or 2.

After swapping the slider for the pickups, is there anything else I have to do?
Offline kiwiAlan  
#6 Posted : 28 November 2022 00:15:37(UTC)
kiwiAlan

United Kingdom   
Joined: 23/07/2014(UTC)
Posts: 7,387
Location: ENGLAND, Didcot
Originally Posted by: SlowOrder Go to Quoted Post
I got a chance to take a look at it today, and it's already equipped with a LokPilot decoder. I was able to order a slider (thanks Stefan!), so that should be here in a week or 2.

After swapping the slider for the pickups, is there anything else I have to do?


You may need to check what protocols are enabled in the decoder. There is always the possibility it is a DCC only decoder, although in Europe it is more likely to be a multi-protocol decoder, but could have some protocols turn off so that only DCC is operational.

Do you know which model Lokpilot is fitted (V3, v4 or v5)?

Offline SlowOrder  
#7 Posted : 04 January 2023 21:26:16(UTC)
SlowOrder

United States   
Joined: 24/11/2022(UTC)
Posts: 4
Location: Binghamton, New York
We got the model apart today, and it's a LokPilot V2.0. I changed out the wheel pickup for the AC slider, and it's shorting out the layout. Is there something I have to rewire on the inside? Is the 2.0 not compatible with an analog AC layout?
Offline Unholz  
#8 Posted : 05 January 2023 12:36:29(UTC)
Unholz

Switzerland   
Joined: 29/07/2007(UTC)
Posts: 1,354
Location: Switzerland
Sorry, misunderstanding, please delete!
Offline mike c  
#9 Posted : 05 January 2023 15:19:23(UTC)
mike c

Canada   
Joined: 28/11/2007(UTC)
Posts: 7,545
Location: Montreal, QC
Originally Posted by: SlowOrder Go to Quoted Post
We got the model apart today, and it's a LokPilot V2.0. I changed out the wheel pickup for the AC slider, and it's shorting out the layout. Is there something I have to rewire on the inside? Is the 2.0 not compatible with an analog AC layout?


The DC model has wheel contacts for both sides (+ and -). To convert the model to AC, you need to remove all leads from one side to the circuit board and bridge them to the other side (common ground/return), add the AC slider and solder the wire to the terminal that you freed up.
You would also need to ensure that the particular ESU Lokpilot is capable of AC operation.

If you have not completely redone the connections, this will result in a connection between the live and return (short).
Some models may require slight modifications to the motor as well.

If you need professional assistance in your area, you can try contacting Scott at Helmut's Hobbies (VA).
I don't know of any Hag experts in your immediate region.

You can also contact Hag and see if they can provide you with a wiring diagram for the AC and DC versions of this model

This is in German, but may help:
https://www.forum.hag-in...c-ac-und-digitalisieren/

Regards

Mike C
thanks 2 users liked this useful post by mike c
Offline marklinist5999  
#10 Posted : 05 January 2023 15:48:03(UTC)
marklinist5999

United States   
Joined: 10/02/2021(UTC)
Posts: 2,025
Location: Michigan, Troy
Yes, as Mike states, and also here is what I learned from rewiring only one pick-up shoe ever. If you are not a skilled solderer and aren't used to precise work, if the bare end of the sho lead is too long, it can short on the top of the bogie frame after the hole. If the solder point on the shoe has too much solder, it can short out on the bogie frame as the studs raise up the shoe. So recheck your work.
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