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Offline Zme  
#1 Posted : 17 September 2022 17:13:14(UTC)
Zme

United States   
Joined: 02/10/2013(UTC)
Posts: 562
Location: West Texas
Hello everyone, hope you are well.

The latest Trainini update was released and here is a link to it:


https://www.trainini.eu/...Trainini_int_2022-08.pdf


That Loco Shed looks very realistic, enjoy your weekend.

Take good care.

Dwight
thanks 6 users liked this useful post by Zme
Offline parakiet  
#2 Posted : 18 September 2022 11:40:06(UTC)
parakiet

Belgium   
Joined: 20/02/2017(UTC)
Posts: 178
Location: Flanders!
Thank you for bringing this into attention!

The layouts of 1zu220 are mentioned in this issue.
Last summer I made a road trip (did ~970 km on one day) to get my collection box. They showed me their layouts. Very Very impressive !!!!!
Offline Toosmall  
#3 Posted : 18 September 2022 15:31:09(UTC)
Toosmall

Australia   
Joined: 26/07/2021(UTC)
Posts: 276
Location: Sydney
Another interesting issue.


A good way to do window frames if you are not fanatical about a raised profile, is to score the surface of 1mm thick polycarbonate sheet (not acrylic sheet). I use an Olfa P cutter 450. The blade has a V profile. I reshape it to a U profile, this allows the scored line to hold more paint. Make sure the blade is very sharp to get clean scored edges. An Arkansas translucent sharpening stone in the best. A small triangular one is more affordable!

When all the lines are scored in, use an old cotton T-shirt (100% cotton is best) to rub kids acrylic paint with colour of choice into the lines and straight away clean off excess.. Some masking tape on your finger first keeps paint off your finger.

This is a 1:200 model, glazing is also mat sprayed on the back so as not to really see inside the model.

IMG_7330_102227.jpg

IMG_73301_102230.jpg

_MG_74141_114327.jpg

If you do want raised frames, pre paint Evergreen styrene strips and stick on with liquid dichloroethane and a Winsor Newton series 7 size 000 brush to bleed the solvent under the styrene strips. These brushes cost 3 arms and 2 legs, but they are worth it.

If you need a line on the edge like on the glass balustrade in the photo. Thin out some acrylic kids paint and use an artist ruling pen ink drawing tool.

Tiles on the balconies I score as well but with a V profile blade. Seats are etched stainless.


I knocked up a simplified shed decades ago. The bulk of the houses I did about 3 to 4 a day but they were also simplified as well.

Z-buildings_123040.jpg

Z scale buildings_123043.jpg
thanks 1 user liked this useful post by Toosmall
Zme
Offline parakiet  
#4 Posted : 18 September 2022 19:30:18(UTC)
parakiet

Belgium   
Joined: 20/02/2017(UTC)
Posts: 178
Location: Flanders!
Originally Posted by: Toosmall Go to Quoted Post
Another interesting issue.


*if you are not fanatical*

IMG_7330_102227.jpg

IMG_73301_102230.jpg

_MG_74141_114327.jpg

Z-buildings_123040.jpg

Z scale buildings_123043.jpg




WaoW you made all of that from scratch, in about a week? Wow, just Wow
thanks 1 user liked this useful post by parakiet
Zme
Offline Zme  
#5 Posted : 18 September 2022 22:11:12(UTC)
Zme

United States   
Joined: 02/10/2013(UTC)
Posts: 562
Location: West Texas
Hello.

Some of us have unique talents for our hobby.

Excellent constructions. They could be sold as kits if you wanted to, they are that good!

Take good care.

Dwight
Offline Toosmall  
#6 Posted : 19 September 2022 01:28:47(UTC)
Toosmall

Australia   
Joined: 26/07/2021(UTC)
Posts: 276
Location: Sydney
Thanks for the comments.

I am a retired architectural model maker. One is looking for speed but it needs to look good. At 1:200/220 you can get away exact detail as you won't see it from normal viewing distance.


To do windows. Use high impact styrene sheet, sheets are 1370 x 760mm look au$15.00, 0.75mm is good for 1:220. Score window outlines, flex sheet, scalpel blade should follow bulge on back, flex back and forth. With practice you will be able to retain fairly fine window divisions.

Then place polycarbonate behind at if installed. Run scalpel blade around edge of openings.

Score frames next to scalpel lines.


This one was more challenging, there was glazing on the corner, spandrel panels had to be back sprayed, then a slight green tint for all the glass.
IMG_0992_091009.jpg
thanks 1 user liked this useful post by Toosmall
Zme
Offline Toosmall  
#7 Posted : 19 September 2022 05:46:57(UTC)
Toosmall

Australia   
Joined: 26/07/2021(UTC)
Posts: 276
Location: Sydney
If one wants to have a go at some easy glazing have a look at this thread. You don't even need to rub paint in.

https://www.marklin-user.../posts/t47945-Glass-lift
Offline Poor Skeleton  
#8 Posted : 19 September 2022 20:28:40(UTC)
Poor Skeleton

United Kingdom   
Joined: 09/10/2015(UTC)
Posts: 472
Location: England, Cambridge
Originally Posted by: Toosmall Go to Quoted Post


I am a retired architectural model maker.


Which, I think gives you a few decades experience over the rest of us! Bravo! Excellent work!

Cheers


Chris
Offline Toosmall  
#9 Posted : 20 September 2022 01:16:54(UTC)
Toosmall

Australia   
Joined: 26/07/2021(UTC)
Posts: 276
Location: Sydney
The biggest problem is getting a picture in your mind in 3 dimensions of a complex building from a very large set of 2 dimensional drawings. More often than not full of mistakes. Often you don't know where to start.

Larger models are simply a lot more administration and keeping really good order of all the parts. Anything that is a different colour is a seperate part. Sometimes you can't avoid masking. I have spent days masking up a model, often trying to mask for a couple of colours and avoid doing masking multiple times.

A balcony will have separate pieces for tiles and balustrade. You can end up with thousands of parts, all painted and ready to install, a bit like a huge jigsaw. You also make a bit of spare material of the same texture and colour, one invariably has some missing parts.

Architects also change things which it a real pain in the neck.
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