 Joined: 02/10/2013(UTC) Posts: 842 Location: West Texas
|
|
 7 users liked this useful post by Zme
|
|
|
|
 Joined: 20/02/2017(UTC) Posts: 298 Location: Flanders!
|
Thank you for bringing this into attention!
The layouts of 1zu220 are mentioned in this issue.
Last summer I made a road trip (did ~970 km on one day) to get my collection box. They showed me their layouts. Very Very impressive !!!!!
|
|
|
|
|
|
 Joined: 26/07/2021(UTC) Posts: 635 Location: Sydney
|
Another interesting issue. A good way to do window frames if you are not fanatical about a raised profile, is to score the surface of 1mm thick polycarbonate sheet (not acrylic sheet). I use an Olfa P cutter 450. The blade has a V profile. I reshape it to a U profile, this allows the scored line to hold more paint. Make sure the blade is very sharp to get clean scored edges. An Arkansas translucent sharpening stone in the best. A small triangular one is more affordable! When all the lines are scored in, use an old cotton T-shirt (100% cotton is best) to rub kids acrylic paint with colour of choice into the lines and straight away clean off excess.. Some masking tape on your finger first keeps paint off your finger. This is a 1:200 model, glazing is also mat sprayed on the back so as not to really see inside the model.    If you do want raised frames, pre paint Evergreen styrene strips and stick on with liquid dichloroethane and a Winsor Newton series 7 size 000 brush to bleed the solvent under the styrene strips. These brushes cost 3 arms and 2 legs, but they are worth it. If you need a line on the edge like on the glass balustrade in the photo. Thin out some acrylic kids paint and use an artist ruling pen ink drawing tool. Tiles on the balconies I score as well but with a V profile blade. Seats are etched stainless. I knocked up a simplified shed decades ago. The bulk of the houses I did about 3 to 4 a day but they were also simplified as well.  
|
1 user liked this useful post by Toosmall
|
|
|
|
Joined: 20/02/2017(UTC) Posts: 298 Location: Flanders!
|
Originally Posted by: Toosmall  WaoW you made all of that from scratch, in about a week? Wow, just Wow
|
1 user liked this useful post by parakiet
|
|
|
|
Joined: 02/10/2013(UTC) Posts: 842 Location: West Texas
|
Hello.
Some of us have unique talents for our hobby.
Excellent constructions. They could be sold as kits if you wanted to, they are that good!
Take good care.
Dwight
|
|
|
|
|
|
Joined: 26/07/2021(UTC) Posts: 635 Location: Sydney
|
Thanks for the comments. I am a retired architectural model maker. One is looking for speed but it needs to look good. At 1:200/220 you can get away exact detail as you won't see it from normal viewing distance. To do windows. Use high impact styrene sheet, sheets are 1370 x 760mm look au$15.00, 0.75mm is good for 1:220. Score window outlines, flex sheet, scalpel blade should follow bulge on back, flex back and forth. With practice you will be able to retain fairly fine window divisions. Then place polycarbonate behind at if installed. Run scalpel blade around edge of openings. Score frames next to scalpel lines. This one was more challenging, there was glazing on the corner, spandrel panels had to be back sprayed, then a slight green tint for all the glass. 
|
2 users liked this useful post by Toosmall
|
|
|
|
Joined: 26/07/2021(UTC) Posts: 635 Location: Sydney
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
 Joined: 09/10/2015(UTC) Posts: 581 Location: England, Cambridge
|
Originally Posted by: Toosmall
I am a retired architectural model maker.
Which, I think gives you a few decades experience over the rest of us! Bravo! Excellent work! Cheers Chris
|
|
|
|
|
|
Joined: 26/07/2021(UTC) Posts: 635 Location: Sydney
|
The biggest problem is getting a picture in your mind in 3 dimensions of a complex building from a very large set of 2 dimensional drawings. More often than not full of mistakes. Often you don't know where to start.
Larger models are simply a lot more administration and keeping really good order of all the parts. Anything that is a different colour is a seperate part. Sometimes you can't avoid masking. I have spent days masking up a model, often trying to mask for a couple of colours and avoid doing masking multiple times.
A balcony will have separate pieces for tiles and balustrade. You can end up with thousands of parts, all painted and ready to install, a bit like a huge jigsaw. You also make a bit of spare material of the same texture and colour, one invariably has some missing parts.
Architects also change things which it a real pain in the neck.
|
|
|
|
|
|
Forum Jump
You cannot post new topics in this forum.
You cannot reply to topics in this forum.
You cannot delete your posts in this forum.
You cannot edit your posts in this forum.
You cannot create polls in this forum.
You cannot vote in polls in this forum.
