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MHauge		#1 Posted : 06 April 2006 22:13:43(UTC) Retweet
Joined: 19/10/2005(UTC) Posts: 393 Location: Aarhus C, DK		I just bought a nice old M 3029 lok. But it's analogue, so got to put a decoder in it.[:(] My dealer talked about a M 60760 decoder with engine upgrade so it would be a 5 headed rotor, but was not sure it would fit, he has asked M what loks it is for - they won't tell him... Is this the right set for this loko ? His price for the decoder was around 45 €, is this an ok price for it ? It's going to be my first conversion - so hope it will be good. Michael
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MHauge		#2 Posted : 06 April 2006 22:18:38(UTC) Retweet
Joined: 19/10/2005(UTC) Posts: 393 Location: Aarhus C, DK		Or how about an MFX decoder - would the 60921 be the right one ? I think it's an DCM engine, but have not opened it yet. Michael
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MHauge		#3 Posted : 06 April 2006 22:44:15(UTC) Retweet
Joined: 19/10/2005(UTC) Posts: 393 Location: Aarhus C, DK		Just opened it up. Not DCM, guess it's a SFCM. So MFX:60923 ? Delta:66032 ? How about normal Digital ? Michael
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MärCo		#4 Posted : 06 April 2006 22:44:58(UTC) Retweet
Joined: 06/03/2005(UTC) Posts: 1,159 Location: The Netherlands		I think it is overkill. A 3029 is too small for a decoder. A 66032 could be build in, but you have to make the frame a bit wider under the boiler. Actually, you only wish to control the motor with 66032. It is possible to remove the parts of 66032 that controls lights and so on. But you have to find out which parts that are.
		Absolutly AFB-NOHAB fan ;-)
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john black		#5 Posted : 06 April 2006 22:59:37(UTC) Retweet
Joined: 22/04/2004(UTC) Posts: 12,139 Location: New York, NY		Quote: [size=1" face="Verdana" id="quote]quote:Originally posted by MHauge <br />My dealer asked M what loks it is for - they won't tell him ... Huh ... ??????
		I hope no one visits a poor Southener's layout in Brooklyn. Intruders beware of Gators. AT&SF, D&RGW, T&P, SP, WP, UP, BN, NYC, ARR, epI-III - analog & digital Marklin Classics only. CU#6021 FX-MOTOROLA DIGITAL SYSTEM. Fast as lightning and no trouble. What else ... Outlaw Member of BIG JUHAN's OUTSIDER CLUB. With the most members, worldwide
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MHauge		#6 Posted : 07 April 2006 00:06:33(UTC) Retweet
Joined: 19/10/2005(UTC) Posts: 393 Location: Aarhus C, DK		I wondered about that too, he says he both called them and emailed them, they would not tell him. On Märklins homepage there is no info about which engines/loks it's for either. I was just thinking about buing a Hamo magnet and a lokpilot mfx or lokpilot micro to put in it. Would cost around the same as the set my dealer showed me, then it would still be the 3 headed rotor, but i guess that would be ok ? Michael
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pat		#7 Posted : 07 April 2006 01:41:21(UTC) Retweet
Joined: 06/01/2004(UTC) Posts: 913 Location: The Central Coast		In my 3029 I put in a cheap little pd101 decoder that works fine only no lights
		worse things happen at sea
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rschaffr		#8 Posted : 07 April 2006 02:24:36(UTC) Retweet
Joined: 03/01/2003(UTC) Posts: 5,180 Location: Southern New Jersey, USA		I have tried a few conversions retaining the 3 pole rotor and have never liked the way they ran in digital. One was with a Uhlenbrock 75200 and the other was a Lenz and HAMO conversion. They were a few of my early experiments, and I now always go for the 5 pole motor, regardless of what decoder I use. For that little lok, you don't have a lot of space. I would get the motor parts for the upgrade and try the new ESU micro decoder.
		-Ron Digital, Epoch IV-V(K-track/CS3/6021Connect/60216051), Epoch III(C-track/6021/6036/6051) http://www.sem-co.com/~rschaffr/trains/trains.html
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john black		#9 Posted : 07 April 2006 02:52:32(UTC) Retweet
Joined: 22/04/2004(UTC) Posts: 12,139 Location: New York, NY		Michael, I'm sure Jorge will have an perfect solution for you ... [:p]
		I hope no one visits a poor Southener's layout in Brooklyn. Intruders beware of Gators. AT&SF, D&RGW, T&P, SP, WP, UP, BN, NYC, ARR, epI-III - analog & digital Marklin Classics only. CU#6021 FX-MOTOROLA DIGITAL SYSTEM. Fast as lightning and no trouble. What else ... Outlaw Member of BIG JUHAN's OUTSIDER CLUB. With the most members, worldwide
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MHauge		#10 Posted : 07 April 2006 06:44:02(UTC) Retweet
Joined: 19/10/2005(UTC) Posts: 393 Location: Aarhus C, DK		Quote: [size=1" face="Verdana" id="quote]quote:Originally posted by rschaffr <br />I would get the motor parts for the upgrade and try the new ESU micro decoder. Do i need anything else than the decoder and hamo magnet ? Michael
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rschaffr		#11 Posted : 07 April 2006 07:02:35(UTC) Retweet
Joined: 03/01/2003(UTC) Posts: 5,180 Location: Southern New Jersey, USA		Actually, the LokSound series of decoders (including the micro) can be operate the AC motor without modification. I have never done this, but it may be an option you would want to consider. If you were not happy with the performance, you could use the same decoder and put the HAMO magnet in the engine to convert it to DC. See page 8 of the manual at http://www.loksound.de/download...ung_Auflage_IV_ebook.pdf
		-Ron Digital, Epoch IV-V(K-track/CS3/6021Connect/60216051), Epoch III(C-track/6021/6036/6051) http://www.sem-co.com/~rschaffr/trains/trains.html
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MHauge		#12 Posted : 07 April 2006 07:39:27(UTC) Retweet
Joined: 19/10/2005(UTC) Posts: 393 Location: Aarhus C, DK		The LokSound is a bit expensive, so i think i'll go with a LokPilot instead, but that requires a hamo magnet. Don't think there is room for the speaker either. Michael
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MHauge		#13 Posted : 07 April 2006 08:02:15(UTC) Retweet
Joined: 19/10/2005(UTC) Posts: 393 Location: Aarhus C, DK		Strange: ESU states that the 3029 should have the ESU 51962 (Märklin 235690) Hamo magnet. Märklin states it has the 200680 rotor, so it should have the ESU 51961 (Märklin 220450) Hamo magnet. Who is right ? Michael
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Lars Westerlind		#14 Posted : 07 April 2006 09:47:56(UTC) Retweet
Joined: 19/10/2001(UTC) Posts: 2,379 Location: Lindome, Sweden		I did this a long time ago, see https://www.marklin-user...digital/DI3029LE130.html It certainly is a SFCM. I'm sure that modern decoders will give a better (more silent) result. Some kind of extra weight in front will come in handy. /Lars
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RayF		#15 Posted : 07 April 2006 12:48:12(UTC) Retweet
Joined: 14/03/2005(UTC) Posts: 15,840 Location: Gibraltar, Europe		I just did a conversion on a loco (3037) with a SFCM. I used a LokpilotV2 and Hamo magnet 51961. see: https://www.marklin-user...ault.aspx?g=posts&t=4310 The result is much smoother than using a delta 66032, though you have to fiddle with the cv values to get the best running.
		Ray Mostly Marklin.Selection of different eras and European railways Small C track layout, control by MS2, 100+ trains but run 4-5 at a time.
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MHauge		#16 Posted : 07 April 2006 19:51:11(UTC) Retweet
Joined: 19/10/2005(UTC) Posts: 393 Location: Aarhus C, DK		Just bought a Uhlenbrock 76200 decoder for it, that does not require any engine parts, so should be easy to install. I'll let you know how it goes, perhaps even with a photo or two.. Michael
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MHauge		#17 Posted : 07 April 2006 21:36:40(UTC) Retweet
Joined: 19/10/2005(UTC) Posts: 393 Location: Aarhus C, DK		Im in the process of installing the decoder, but my german is to bad for this. I dont realy understand the instructions. Anyone installed this decoder ? The text is : Quote: [size=1" face="Verdana" id="quote]quote: Trennen Sie die Verbindung zwischen den Motorschild und der Feldspuhle auf. Die beiden Drähte in dem Leitungsende, das von der Feldspuhle kommt, müssen miteinander verlötet bleiben. Isolieren Sie das Leitungsende. Es wird für den Betrieb mit dem Decoder nicht mehr benötigt. Trennen Sie alle andere Leitungsverbindungen zwischen dem Motorschild und dem Lokchassis auf. Die Leitungen des Decoders werden wie folgt angeschlossen: die beiden weissen Leitungen an die Zuleitungen für Feldspule, die grüne und die blaue Leitung an die beiden Anschlüsse am motorschild, die braune Leitung an Masse und die rote Leitung direct an den Schleifer. Die Entstörelemente verbleiben am Motor. As far as i understand it: Red to middle-rail. Brown to ground/wheels. Blue+green to engine. But what about the two white ones ? And the coil at the end of the engine should be shorted ? And the wire going from coil to engine shold be cut ? Like this picture Michael
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rschaffr		#18 Posted : 07 April 2006 21:50:06(UTC) Retweet
Joined: 03/01/2003(UTC) Posts: 5,180 Location: Southern New Jersey, USA		I am at work and don't have my notes or the diagram in front of me, but my recollection (on the 75200) is that the center tap from the field coil is spliced together, and the white wires go to the end taps from the field coil. Other than that, what you say is correct. You may have to futz with the blue and green to get the directon to correspond to the lights.
		-Ron Digital, Epoch IV-V(K-track/CS3/6021Connect/60216051), Epoch III(C-track/6021/6036/6051) http://www.sem-co.com/~rschaffr/trains/trains.html
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MHauge		#19 Posted : 07 April 2006 22:21:29(UTC) Retweet
Joined: 19/10/2005(UTC) Posts: 393 Location: Aarhus C, DK		Yoy mean the one white wire is connected to the two shorted ones, and the other to the cut wire, on the coil end ? Michael
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rschaffr		#20 Posted : 07 April 2006 22:45:41(UTC) Retweet
Joined: 03/01/2003(UTC) Posts: 5,180 Location: Southern New Jersey, USA		No, the shorted ones are insulated and left alone (these are the double wire going to the brushplate now). Just remove them and make sure they remain in contact. I put a small piece of heatshrink over them to insure that they didn't contact anything. The two other (single) wires coming from the field coil go to the white wires from the decoder.
		-Ron Digital, Epoch IV-V(K-track/CS3/6021Connect/60216051), Epoch III(C-track/6021/6036/6051) http://www.sem-co.com/~rschaffr/trains/trains.html
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al_pignolo		#21 Posted : 07 April 2006 23:50:41(UTC) Retweet
Joined: 30/09/2005(UTC) Posts: 904 Location: bologna, BO		About installing Uhl 76200 I got all the informations in this topic: https://www.marklin-user...ault.aspx?g=posts&t=2923 Bye. Pietro
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MHauge		#22 Posted : 08 April 2006 09:08:56(UTC) Retweet
Joined: 19/10/2005(UTC) Posts: 393 Location: Aarhus C, DK		I still don't get it. On my engine there are 3 wires from the field coil, 2 was connected to the reversing-unit, the last one to one of the 2 engine connections. So if 2 must be shorted, and not used, then only one left for the 2 white wires from decoder ? Can someone make a picture/drawing of how it must be connected ? Michael
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al_pignolo		#23 Posted : 08 April 2006 11:08:54(UTC) Retweet
Joined: 30/09/2005(UTC) Posts: 904 Location: bologna, BO		In that case you must solder two of the wires together. Now I don't remember wich ones but, to find them, you should see a picture in uhlembrock instructions, with the coil and the wires to solder. If you still have problems, tomorrow I'll take a picture of one of my locos, hoping to help you.
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rschaffr		#24 Posted : 08 April 2006 16:50:11(UTC) Retweet
Joined: 03/01/2003(UTC) Posts: 5,180 Location: Southern New Jersey, USA		The wire(s) going to the engine brush plate is actually two wires, and these are the ones that should be kept together and isolated. The two going to the reversing unit are connected to the white wires.
		-Ron Digital, Epoch IV-V(K-track/CS3/6021Connect/60216051), Epoch III(C-track/6021/6036/6051) http://www.sem-co.com/~rschaffr/trains/trains.html
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MHauge		#25 Posted : 08 April 2006 18:53:14(UTC) Retweet
Joined: 19/10/2005(UTC) Posts: 393 Location: Aarhus C, DK		Thanks for the help, it was the short one that was going to the engine that confused me. It's running fine in digital mode now
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MHauge		#26 Posted : 12 April 2006 21:13:10(UTC) Retweet
Joined: 19/10/2005(UTC) Posts: 393 Location: Aarhus C, DK		This loco pulls pretty nice, i just tryed putting 12 2-axled cars behind it. It has a little problems in turns, but after all it only has one traction tyre. With the 12 cars and my track cleaning car it wont move much, but that's not so strange, it's dragging those pads against the tracks.. Michael
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