Hello Richard,

I'll make a try. It's true, you should remove the old reversing relay, and disconnet the cable from the motor. The field coil has 3 cables, or maybe 4 where two are connected togheter, to a drossle (hf coil) which goes to one of the motor connection I think; this connection is not used anymore, but if it consists of tow separate wires, those should be soldered together and isolated from the rest. The othet two wires from the field coil should be connected to the white cables from decoder. I'm not 100 % sure here, but this is the only interpretation that makes sense to me.

The other things are straightforward. Keep the capacitator between the two brushes, which take the blue and green cables from decoder; no other connection to the motor should be present when finished. Yellow and grey goes to the direction dependent lights where grey preferable is forward. If the direction of travel differs from the lit end when finished, you may change this by programming CV 29; but of course, there is also the option of wait with grey and yellow until everything else is done and you may test what direction it travels.

Red goes as usual to the slider, and brown to the chassis; you the old 'main soldering point' which I think is situated at the lower left screw of the motor. This has connection both to wheels and to the lamsps.

Do you need f1 and f2? In the german manual those are denoted A1 and A2, and must be soldered to the PCB by yourself. And I don't think those will be usable with a 6020 central.

In case the engine goes with wrong speed, or changes direction, you could buy 71500, two drossles and a capacitator connected as shown; however, I would suggest you try without thsese, just keeping the capacitator as said above.

Programming is preferable done with a DCC central, but also possible with a Märklin central. Please tell if you want instruction for this as well.

Regards,
Lars

Lars - nicely done. That's exactly how it's done! The only slight difference is that, usually, if the light change is not in line with the direction change, you would swap the green and blue cables.

This is where I "stray" a little from the installation instructions.

I don't solder green/blue until I know they are right. I just turn on the speed at a really low setting, then briefly hold both cable ends to the field coil connections. The loco will make a brief jump. Enough for me to work out which cable goes to where!

Yes, great idea. I'll add that to my conversion process. Thanks.

Wouldn't learning german solve your problem as well?
/Lars

I agree,
the meaning was unclear to me too. I had to use other knowledge too in order to figure out a meaning that made sense. And think Richard confirmed that this interpretation was correct.
/Lars

Martin: I have started using the ESU decoders almost exclusively, but I still convert to 5 pole motors. The loks I had converted with HAMO magnets and the old 3 pole rotors just didn't run to my satisfaciton. I know it is more expensive, but really, the parts don't cost THAT much compared to what you have already invested in the decoder.

Hallo. I too had problems on mounting 76200 decoder in my old locomotives... because I don't speak german, too, (and also my english is very bad, as you can see..) I first tried with a 3039 (BR 110) following Lars' instructions and finding that it is quite easy...
But I still have 3 problems, hoping that someone can help me:

1) I read somewhere that some decoders can't support "normal" Maerklin lightbulbs (60015), because they drain too much current and could damage the decoder[xx(]: I didn't link the lights by now. Do I have to change them with 610080 or something like that?

2) I don't know how to program CVs, like address, etc. with my 6021. A friend of mine also tried with his Intellibox but we didn't have success. How can I program the decoder and wich are the most important CVs? The CVs' function are the same of other decoder (like Zimo, ec?)

3) I left the old 3 pole motors. But I found that its runnig in digital purpose is worse than before. I think I could have better results on setting the frequency of the PVM... but how can I do it?

FInally, my answer to chon... based on my little experience: yes, you must remove all the capacitors ("pastille-like elements") except for the one between the motor brushes. If you don't do that, the digital signal is grounded and the locomotive doesn't move.

Bye.

I've two remarks.

1. Some of you say it's better to remove the capacitors, except the one between the brushes. But when I did it, nothing runs. If I don't do it, everything runs perfectly. So, it seems that Uhlenbrock is right saying you don't need to change anything to the motor.

2. When I wrongly solder the green and the blue wires, so that the direction doesn't match with the lights, if I use CV29 instead of soldering the wires correctly, have noticed some strange behaviour of the engines at very slow motion : they hesitate which direction to follow. I have noticed it twice. So, I prefer to solder the wires again, correctly this time .

For the rest, I'm very satisfied with this decoder. The locos run more smoothly than before and, in DCC-mode, you can effectively run at very slow motion, what was impossible before.