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Offline einotuominen  
#1 Posted : 18 March 2025 18:14:34(UTC)
einotuominen

Finland   
Joined: 19/09/2022(UTC)
Posts: 459
Location: Kaarina
Hi,

I'm quite sure I know the answer, because smoke generators are connected the same way, but just to make sure:

I can use old incandescent bulbs with modern decoders so that front light/rear light is connected to the the tip of the bulbs and bulb "hull" is connectd to the loco chassis and to the ground?

The loco in question is 89 005 which has the bulbs pointin out of the shell of the loco. Can't easily be changed to LEDs.

Should I also use a series resistor?

I've so far converted maybe 50 locos but always replaces bulbs with LEDs.

-Eino
Offline mvd71  
#2 Posted : 18 March 2025 18:51:01(UTC)
mvd71

New Zealand   
Joined: 09/08/2008(UTC)
Posts: 1,916
Location: Auckland,
Hi Eino,

Yes it is ok to earth the bulbs through the chassis with the digital upgrade. The only downside is you will get the flickering effect in the lights.

Cheers….

Mike
Offline bph  
#3 Posted : 18 March 2025 20:01:45(UTC)
bph

Norway   
Joined: 04/08/2018(UTC)
Posts: 1,144
one solution is to e.g. use a Marklin E276770, just press it down in the old socket. when used with E610080 no resistor is needed.
Offline rhfil  
#4 Posted : 18 March 2025 20:59:40(UTC)
rhfil

United States   
Joined: 05/09/2014(UTC)
Posts: 674
Location: NEW HAMPSHIRE, Somersworth
My understanding, which is admittedly limited. is that an incandescent bulb is essentially a resistor and the filament glows because of the resistance. So as long as the bulb is rated for the voltage you should be fine. If not it will either glow brightly for a very shot time or dully for ever.
Offline Bill L  
#5 Posted : 19 March 2025 00:54:02(UTC)
Bill L

United States   
Joined: 08/12/2021(UTC)
Posts: 140
Location: California, Sonoma County
Hi:

I have both the 3023 and 3024 where the front 2 incandescent light bulbs are screwed in after the body is put back on the chassis. The 2 bulbs are inserted into a small metal frame that is then screwed in front and back into the body. I still use the 60902 dip-switch decoder and that works fine. (I also had a LPV3, and LPV4 in this loco for a time) Yes, there is a little bit of light flickering. No resistors needed with these incandescent light bulbs. I am very happy how they run, and so I can live with a little flickering. The light bulbs are very bright and look nice, very vintage looking.
Some pictures posted by others of the chassis with the light frame. https://www.marklin-user...armature-does-not-rotate

Edited by user 19 March 2025 07:48:34(UTC)  | Reason: Not specified

Offline mike c  
#6 Posted : 19 March 2025 05:34:18(UTC)
mike c

Canada   
Joined: 28/11/2007(UTC)
Posts: 8,216
Location: Montreal, QC
The older models had the lights which went bright when you initiated a reverse pulse, so those bulbs were designed to withstand 24 or 25VAC surges. Since the 1980s, the new reverse units did not make the lights flash, so many models started to have lights with a rating of 18VAC.
When the digital system was introduced, it involved constant current which meant that lights were on all the time (when on) and did not dim at low speeds (low voltages). This meant that the lights had to withstand constant voltage and constant use, so once again, higher tolerances became an issue. For example, Hag recommended that all models that were digital or digitized should have the lights replaced.
One issue for Maerklin was that many analog models used the frame for ground return, so the lights were connected by one live lead to the circuit board and the return was via the frame. The second generation digital models started having the lights connected to the circuit board/decoder with live and return cables. The first generation models had lights that were not active in analog use and flickered in digital operation, which led to the search for a better system.
Regular bulbs can be used if they are appropriate to the model. As long as it fits in the space and has the proper connections (screw, pins, etc) and can withstand constant use at 19V, you should be ok.
Some models may have warnings with risk of heat damage from constant or prolonged use, such as the first model of the Hag SBB Re 450 where the plastic destination sign holder would melt from heat.

Regards

Mike C
Offline einotuominen  
#7 Posted : 19 March 2025 07:17:49(UTC)
einotuominen

Finland   
Joined: 19/09/2022(UTC)
Posts: 459
Location: Kaarina
Thanks guys!

I don't know what the rating for these bulbs are, so I think I'll put in 100-200 ohm extra resistor just to be sure.

Here are a couple of photos of this particular light installment.

BR,
Eino

IMG_6705 Large.jpegIMG_6706 Large.jpeg
Offline H0  
#8 Posted : 19 March 2025 07:39:56(UTC)
H0


Joined: 16/02/2004(UTC)
Posts: 15,432
Location: DE-NW
Originally Posted by: einotuominen Go to Quoted Post
Should I also use a series resistor?
No.
Same story for light bulbs and smoke generators:
If connected that way, they will only get about 75% of the power, so the "analogue" type of light bulbs (19 V) and smoke generators (up to 16 V) can be used.
If both poles are connected to the decoder, use "digital" light bulbs (22 V) and smoke generators (16 V to 22 V).

Lights will flicker, but this cannot be noticed with smoke generators.
Regards
Tom
---
"In all of the gauges, we particularly emphasize a high level of quality, the best possible fidelity to the prototype, and absolute precision. You will see that in all of our products." (from Märklin New Items Brochure 2015, page 1) ROFLBTCUTS
UserPostedImage
thanks 1 user liked this useful post by H0
Offline mvd71  
#9 Posted : 19 March 2025 08:57:31(UTC)
mvd71

New Zealand   
Joined: 09/08/2008(UTC)
Posts: 1,916
Location: Auckland,
No need for resistors. I have the same setup on a BR89 (cm800) and it runs off the decoder without any issues.
Offline bph  
#10 Posted : 19 March 2025 11:05:34(UTC)
bph

Norway   
Joined: 04/08/2018(UTC)
Posts: 1,144
One solution to remove the flicker in these locomotives is to use an optocoupler
eg: https://digitaltog.dk/wordpress/flimmerfrit-lys-med-optokobler/ (In danish)

and the lights remain dimable. eg you dim the aux out in the decoder and you will also dim the light.

more on it on this site:https://moba-hgh.de/modellbahn/tipps-tricks-infos/1718-tuning-der-rauchsatzansteuerung-jetzt-raucht-s-richtig.html

thanks 1 user liked this useful post by bph
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