 Joined: 19/09/2022(UTC) Posts: 459 Location: Kaarina
|
Hi,
I'm quite sure I know the answer, because smoke generators are connected the same way, but just to make sure:
I can use old incandescent bulbs with modern decoders so that front light/rear light is connected to the the tip of the bulbs and bulb "hull" is connectd to the loco chassis and to the ground?
The loco in question is 89 005 which has the bulbs pointin out of the shell of the loco. Can't easily be changed to LEDs.
Should I also use a series resistor?
I've so far converted maybe 50 locos but always replaces bulbs with LEDs.
-Eino
|
|
|
|
|
|
 Joined: 09/08/2008(UTC) Posts: 1,919 Location: Auckland,
|
Hi Eino,
Yes it is ok to earth the bulbs through the chassis with the digital upgrade. The only downside is you will get the flickering effect in the lights.
Cheers….
Mike
|
|
|
|
|
|
 Joined: 04/08/2018(UTC) Posts: 1,159
|
one solution is to e.g. use a Marklin E276770, just press it down in the old socket. when used with E610080 no resistor is needed.
|
|
|
|
|
|
 Joined: 05/09/2014(UTC) Posts: 676 Location: NEW HAMPSHIRE, Somersworth
|
My understanding, which is admittedly limited. is that an incandescent bulb is essentially a resistor and the filament glows because of the resistance. So as long as the bulb is rated for the voltage you should be fine. If not it will either glow brightly for a very shot time or dully for ever.
|
|
|
|
|
|
Joined: 08/12/2021(UTC) Posts: 141 Location: California, Sonoma County
|
Hi: I have both the 3023 and 3024 where the front 2 incandescent light bulbs are screwed in after the body is put back on the chassis. The 2 bulbs are inserted into a small metal frame that is then screwed in front and back into the body. I still use the 60902 dip-switch decoder and that works fine. (I also had a LPV3, and LPV4 in this loco for a time) Yes, there is a little bit of light flickering. No resistors needed with these incandescent light bulbs. I am very happy how they run, and so I can live with a little flickering. The light bulbs are very bright and look nice, very vintage looking. Some pictures posted by others of the chassis with the light frame. https://www.marklin-user...armature-does-not-rotateEdited by user 19 March 2025 07:48:34(UTC)
| Reason: Not specified
|
|
|
|
|
|
 Joined: 28/11/2007(UTC) Posts: 8,233 Location: Montreal, QC
|
The older models had the lights which went bright when you initiated a reverse pulse, so those bulbs were designed to withstand 24 or 25VAC surges. Since the 1980s, the new reverse units did not make the lights flash, so many models started to have lights with a rating of 18VAC.
When the digital system was introduced, it involved constant current which meant that lights were on all the time (when on) and did not dim at low speeds (low voltages). This meant that the lights had to withstand constant voltage and constant use, so once again, higher tolerances became an issue. For example, Hag recommended that all models that were digital or digitized should have the lights replaced.
One issue for Maerklin was that many analog models used the frame for ground return, so the lights were connected by one live lead to the circuit board and the return was via the frame. The second generation digital models started having the lights connected to the circuit board/decoder with live and return cables. The first generation models had lights that were not active in analog use and flickered in digital operation, which led to the search for a better system.
Regular bulbs can be used if they are appropriate to the model. As long as it fits in the space and has the proper connections (screw, pins, etc) and can withstand constant use at 19V, you should be ok.
Some models may have warnings with risk of heat damage from constant or prolonged use, such as the first model of the Hag SBB Re 450 where the plastic destination sign holder would melt from heat.
Regards
Mike C
|
|
|
|
|
|
Joined: 19/09/2022(UTC) Posts: 459 Location: Kaarina
|
Thanks guys! I don't know what the rating for these bulbs are, so I think I'll put in 100-200 ohm extra resistor just to be sure. Here are a couple of photos of this particular light installment. BR, Eino  
|
|
|
|
|
|
Joined: 16/02/2004(UTC)
Posts: 15,446
Location: DE-NW
|
Originally Posted by: einotuominen  Should I also use a series resistor? No. Same story for light bulbs and smoke generators: If connected that way, they will only get about 75% of the power, so the "analogue" type of light bulbs (19 V) and smoke generators (up to 16 V) can be used. If both poles are connected to the decoder, use "digital" light bulbs (22 V) and smoke generators (16 V to 22 V). Lights will flicker, but this cannot be noticed with smoke generators. |
Regards Tom --- "In all of the gauges, we particularly emphasize a high level of quality, the best possible fidelity to the prototype, and absolute precision. You will see that in all of our products." (from Märklin New Items Brochure 2015, page 1) ROFLBTCUTS  |
 1 user liked this useful post by H0
|
|
|
|
Joined: 09/08/2008(UTC) Posts: 1,919 Location: Auckland,
|
No need for resistors. I have the same setup on a BR89 (cm800) and it runs off the decoder without any issues.
|
|
|
|
|
|
Joined: 04/08/2018(UTC) Posts: 1,159
|
|
1 user liked this useful post by bph
|
|
|
|
Forum Jump
You cannot post new topics in this forum.
You cannot reply to topics in this forum.
You cannot delete your posts in this forum.
You cannot edit your posts in this forum.
You cannot create polls in this forum.
You cannot vote in polls in this forum.
