Originally Posted by: Aussie Susan 
OK - I think I just about have what I need but I'd like to get a 'sanity check' before I start ordering the wrong things.
My old engines are:
- 3000 - now called the 30000 - looks like the cost of a new one is about the same as a conversion kit so I'm taking that path
- 3021 - now called 30210;
=> 60944 conversion kit for the motor
=> 60972 mfx decoder
- 3937 - this was a kit that gave you a 3037 (???) and it looks like the 37108 but mine is green, not blue (I don't think this is significant)
=> 60921 conversion kit - I've seen references to this in this forum but I can't find it in the various model shops i've checked
=> ???? Decoder
So:
1) can I use the 60944 conversion kit for both the (old numbered) 3021 an 3937 engines?
2) ditto for the 60972 decoder?
Hello Susan,
as said some others, do not transpose ancient numbers in new, it's not the same even if it's similar.
30210 is reengineered in the same body, and 37018 is just simply a new construction, not more similar to the ancient model than a VW New Beetle to a 1960 VW Beetle.
Yes, your 3021 needs a 60944 motor.
Your 3937, yes it's a kit of 3037, you have to look at the motor. Because, for number of these locos that were in production for a long time, the motor has changed. Internet listings often only show one version, generally the latest...
I have two E41, one in the first series (it's a 3034 but it differs from 3037 only by the painting), with a little lever for manual action on the reverse relais, and it has the SFCM (small flat collector motor), the same as in your 3000. So it will need a 60943 kit. But the other, from mid 70's, has a DCM (drum collector motor) and will need the 60941 kit.
The DCM motor seems similar to the kit motor which has a drum collector, too - but the DCM rotor has only three poles (kit: 5), and is tinier than the kit motor.
Both locos are quite simple to convert, the only thing to watch is to avoid all contact from electronic parts to the loco body or chassis, because these are under rail tension, and it's deadly dangerous for the decoder.
About the lights : you have several options.
The simple option : keep the bulb lights, connect only the "LV" and "LR" wires in place of the existing cable. The circuit is made by the chassis. Lights will be less bright (that's fine), but under some conditions they will twinkle a little bit. I am sensitive to this but I never found my loco lights twinkling...
More sophisticated: you may find some fittings for bulbs type Märklin E610080 - they are proposed by Märklin, as E604180. (With these numbers you may find them on the net.) The fittings stick in the old fittings for screwed bulbs, and you rely them to the decoder by orange wire and LV/LR (LV in front, LR in rear).
I do like the bulb light, which is warmer than LED light and more similar to the real loco light, with bulbs.
Even more sophisticated but not a problem for you : replace the light conductor by big LED bicolor. These give you the possibility to light the red train end lights, when the loco goes without train from one station to another, or when it pushes a reversible train. Both, E41 and V200, were fitted for reversible trains. I did not do this up tu now, I am very old school in these things.
I do not need to explain you that LED lightings need resistances...
Your choice, be glad with it.