I have wondered the same so will be interested in any replys/suggestions.

I get the impression one of those is included in the 5104 and 5107 kits mentioned (and linked at bottom of that page). The 5104 and 5107 appear to be complete railroad crossing kits with barriers, St Andrews cross signs and all the other signs and bits to go around a crossing, the difference between the two kits being the barrier style.

Hi Geir

I did it on a Faller old-style crossing to adapt it for the Car System, and it was based on C Track
I used thin plywood (3 mm) with lots of filing. Between the rails, I used a spare plastic (polistyrene) of a dark colour, I used brass nails to figure the studs and placed them so they would not interfere with the Car system (Slider and wheels)
I used also the Faller "grove machine" to cut the grove for the cutting wire.
Here it is during the trimming

And here it is a little later during operation

There is a lot of trimming and filing but the result is fun

There is anoter approach to C Track level crossing (but I did not try it myself:
- use a long straight (e.g. 24188) use a powerful soldering iron to heat the studs from underneath so that they come 0.5 mm above the rail surface.
- then prepare a long rectangle out of a dark plastic to make the "planks" between the rails and mak the studs location, drill them
- install the "planks" between the rails and adjust

Note: you may have to cut a rectangle in the in-between space between the rails to allow the studs to be raised in a gentle slope
Why dark plastic? Because of abrasion, sooner or later, the paint will go away in small places (wheel friction, Car System friction)

Cheers
Jean

Hi @geir,

Here is my take on this subject: https://www.marklin-user...erailing-zone#post584543 (and subsequent posts). I also used a thin plastic sheet plus a wire for the 3rd rail contact. Later I've managed to hide the wire even better, by digging a channel in the plastic and leaving just the very top of the wire exposed.

But now seeing @Alsterstreek's post, it would be a great way to achieve it, that's really neat!

Cheers,

.costin

More food for thought:

https://www.marklin-user...49-C-track-road-crossing

I have chosen another solution for filling in between the K tracks in our harbor area.

The two tracks are lying parallel, and originally there was a transverse of two long switches 22716, but they were removed,as I found it impossible to cover the gaps.

I chose to use an N-flex rail as the center conductor, and it is 0.5 mm high. And at one end, where the approach is, the rail is bent downwards!

They were each equipped with soldered wires + a couple of controls made of straight 1½ square copper. The wires were held down underneath by guts from plastic electrical terminal blocks.

The spaces between all the rails were filled with plastic cobblestone sheets from Auhagen, and this covering matched the height of the K rails just fine, as it was just below the top of the rails, when laid on rail nails.

Before that, the gray color had been adjusted darker.

It lasts well, and still fits well!

Pictures can be requested if desired.


At other transitions in the port area, there are e.g. used the Faller gizmos, but also made a place with a thin copper wire.


However, I have a problem with a crossing over a switch, and here a temporary solution with some cut-to-size cardboard has been used, but it's not that nice, so it's on the list of changes. I have considered laser cutting it 1mm MDF, but drawings are difficult to make …..

The first two links are a bad gateway.

Great picture and idea. How would they be fashioned? Finding the correct metal gauge and using a bench grinder?