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Offline Mark5  
#1 Posted : 14 May 2022 21:40:13(UTC)
Mark5

Canada   
Joined: 29/01/2012(UTC)
Posts: 1,355
Location: Montreal, Canada
Hello All,

No doubt many of us do film our MMR with all kinds of equipment and for all kinds of purposes, from social media or Forum posts to something for youtubers like Martin from Marklin of Sweden, our own home grown Forum youtuber. So its seems worthwhile posting this under photography since we do not have a separate category for video and filming. Of course they overlap, and many (most?) DSLR cameras now have video with audio pick up aux. I have a couple old DSLRs but old now from 2009.

I have wanted to do short films for a years, and the work I have done with MMR has been very limited, most just off my old cell phones, and before that my laptop webcam. The other day a local shop had a used and locked S21 which is supposed to have a great (triple) camera and was about to buy it from him to try and play with taking MMR and Macro shots, but it was sold upon my return visit. This led me to think more about what the best way would be to Macro film something (pre) semi-professional on a limited budget.

So I did do a Forum search and there are worthwhile comments already posted. I don't want to duplicate. However the technology changes so quickly and I thought an up to date discussion would be in order, especially since the primary question is FILM for this thread. Cool

I search with keywords Macro and Film and find some great threads.
If I missed relevant old threads, please let me know I will add them to the list.

Some of the somewhat recent discussions that I found from that search:
https://www.marklin-user...657-Multi-focus-Software
This thread has comments in 2013 and again bumped up with comments in 2018, 2019
My thought on multifocus was that the cell phone with 3 simultaneous built in cameras might just be enough of a solution for some of our purposes. However the technical comments in the linked thread wrt to DoF (Depth of Field) are valuable for various kinds of equipment. That said, there are times we do not want every detail in focus for (film or still) movement and atmosphere.

Older version of the focus stacking discussion from 2012. Beautiful results from examples using CS6, again its still shots.
https://www.marklin-user...re---Focus-Stacking.aspx

A good 2016 discussion here on Macro vs Telephoto with some great examples.
https://www.marklin-user...6506-Macro-vs--Telephoto

Also enjoyed discussion here... and GlennM's discussion of pinhole could be a whole other interesting thread. Would love to see MMR shots in pinhole. Amazingly nostalgic and atmospheric effects... but not suitable for film
https://www.marklin-user.../posts/t18411-Macro-lenz

Thanking you ahead of time!
- Mark

PS Enjoy the following for inspiration!
https://www.pcmag.com/ne...ing-miniature-movie-sets
DB DR FS NS SNCF c. 1955-65, fan of station architecture esp. from 1920-70.
Email or PM anytime or then we chat live here: https://discord.gg/jAEKyTWQPQ
thanks 2 users liked this useful post by Mark5
Offline Toosmall  
#2 Posted : 23 May 2022 11:25:57(UTC)
Toosmall

Australia   
Joined: 26/07/2021(UTC)
Posts: 456
Location: Sydney
Nothing wrong with a 2009 DSLR. I shot these photos with a 2008 Canon 5D2.

Eta Aquariids meteorites
_MG_0279crop_051238.jpg

A screw flame blued on a Vienna clock weight.
_MG_0332_104940.jpg

Both with Canon 85mm f1.4 the 4mm OD screw also with 12mm extension and B&W +4 close up filter. The astroid photo I shot a dark frame to remove a few hot pixels, changed to a difference layer. A bit of sharpening (L) and blurring (AB) in LAB colour space for the screw, plus worked on the image firstly double pixel size, helps with sharpening quality.
thanks 1 user liked this useful post by Toosmall
Offline Mark5  
#3 Posted : 24 May 2022 15:19:53(UTC)
Mark5

Canada   
Joined: 29/01/2012(UTC)
Posts: 1,355
Location: Montreal, Canada
Originally Posted by: Toosmall Go to Quoted Post
Nothing wrong with a 2009 DSLR. I shot these photos with a 2008 Canon 5D2.

Eta Aquariids meteorites
[....]

A screw flame blued on a Vienna clock weight.
[....]

Both with Canon 85mm f1.4 the 4mm OD screw also with 12mm extension and B&W +4 close up filter. The astroid photo I shot a dark frame to remove a few hot pixels, changed to a difference layer. A bit of sharpening (L) and blurring (AB) in LAB colour space for the screw, plus worked on the image firstly double pixel size, helps with sharpening quality.


Nice work Toosmall!

Have you done any video on tiny 'toosmall' scale? I am working in H0 scale, but Z scale must be even more of a challenge to get close-up video without too much blur in movement.

The question to me is really about getting foreground, subject and background to work together adequately with both the subject and background moving with respect to the other along with having a stabilized camera movement. I am thinking of jigs that move on pivots and/or rails for small cameras or cell phones. Slow movements as well as those that can follow the trains.

DB DR FS NS SNCF c. 1955-65, fan of station architecture esp. from 1920-70.
Email or PM anytime or then we chat live here: https://discord.gg/jAEKyTWQPQ
Offline Toosmall  
#4 Posted : 24 May 2022 23:25:08(UTC)
Toosmall

Australia   
Joined: 26/07/2021(UTC)
Posts: 456
Location: Sydney
I'm not a video person.

The smaller the camera sensor the more DOF you can get. But you get more sensor noise, but cameras are very good these days.

I have an old Canon S90 & it has great DOF. I had a Canon X9 but broke it. It had better quality but not quite as good DOF.

Have a look a GoPro or similar cameras and see if they are ok for your purpose.

All these small sensor cameras keep them on the lowest ISO to reduce sensor noise. So plenty of light on the scene.


You may need to knock up custom brackets and rails to shoot in tight places.
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Offline Toosmall  
#5 Posted : 25 May 2022 00:39:04(UTC)
Toosmall

Australia   
Joined: 26/07/2021(UTC)
Posts: 456
Location: Sydney
Have look at the Polaroid Cube.

https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=0rpX2ELPmZ4
thanks 1 user liked this useful post by Toosmall
Offline bph  
#6 Posted : 02 June 2022 22:39:20(UTC)
bph

Norway   
Joined: 04/08/2018(UTC)
Posts: 729
This seems to be an interesting lens. Cool

thanks 5 users liked this useful post by bph
Offline PMPeter  
#7 Posted : 03 June 2022 16:32:29(UTC)
PMPeter

Canada   
Joined: 04/04/2013(UTC)
Posts: 1,255
Location: Port Moody, BC
Originally Posted by: Toosmall Go to Quoted Post
Have look at the Polaroid Cube.

https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=0rpX2ELPmZ4



That Polaroid Cube+ camera is exactly what I have been looking for. However, I wonder if it is no longer being made. All the recommended Retail suggestions show No Stock and not sure if it will be available again. There are also none available on eBay, just the older Polaroid Cube.

Perhaps it is another victim of the chip shortage, or perhaps being replaced with something else.
thanks 1 user liked this useful post by PMPeter
Offline PacoM  
#8 Posted : 14 February 2023 21:45:46(UTC)
PacoM

Spain   
Joined: 20/08/2020(UTC)
Posts: 54
I have discovered this thread now and have really enjoyed the information and the links. But, sincerely, I have not found a satisfactory answer to the title of the thread, cameras and techniques to provide videos with sharp focus. My experience in this field is very limited, all I have been able to try is tracking the focused object and supplying as much light as possible so as to close the aperture, always with slowly moving objects (the shutter speed cannot be increased). Has nobody had good results, now that modern cameras and even phones offer high resolution videos?
The links refer to still photos, focus bracketing and stacking. I supplied some examples in https://www.marklin-user...0-MkII-for-model-photos. Recently, I contributed to discuss this subject in another forum and tried to show how it is possible to focus from 50 to 300cm (or even further). I share the result, with an image of my small shadow station. These are the technical details:
Camera: Olympus E-PL9; lens, standard 14-42 at 42mm.
ISO 250, speed 1,6 sec, aperture 8.
6 pictures taken focusing different objects (the vehicles shown were placed to make it easier).
Lights: 60W lamp at the front for the foreground, LEDs strip up in the middle of the shelf and a 300W torch at 2m for the background.
EST oculta.jpg
thanks 3 users liked this useful post by PacoM
Offline Toosmall  
#9 Posted : 16 February 2023 21:38:49(UTC)
Toosmall

Australia   
Joined: 26/07/2021(UTC)
Posts: 456
Location: Sydney
If the camera has plenty of resolution, you could shoot a wider angle image and crop it. Often very wide angle lenses are larger and can be difficult to get into tight areas.

This is also a good way to keep verticals vertical. Crop off either top or bottom.
thanks 1 user liked this useful post by Toosmall
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