Z scale catenary is fully functional. I have a Crocodile (8856) that has a small screw head in the roof to switch from wheel to pantograph pickup. Other than that I can't comment on special concerns.

Cripes! H0 scale catenary is fiddly - Z must be a nightmare to set up..

Even though I don't speak German, I do know enough to get around in z scale.

Search "spur z oberleitung" at YouTube and the first hit is here:


And in z scale, many times the catenary is more reliable than electrical pickup through the wheels. The wheels can accumulate grime and then end up cutting out the electricity. This can, of course, be fixed with routine maintenance, but the overhead catenary does not need this maintenance. :)

First point. If you are doing block sections then you need everything on the same set of blocks. So why not use one of the rails. You could then incorporate a secondary feed (catenary) into the set of block sections to run those locos at, say a different speed, but still function within the one set of block sections. But, is it really worth all the extra wiring. More than likely not.

If you want to run locos via catenary it is the same wiring as with a rail just 37mm higher! That's the only difference.

It is very simple to do block sections. No point having less than 3 block section.

If you want to do it automatically used the Marklin 8599 rail switch (or you could wire in a beam across the track). You can easily add overriding momentary switches on your control panel for each block section.

When the loco goes over the 8599 it briefly closes a circuit. This circuit you wire to a latching relay to "open" the circuit of the previous block and also to "close" the circuit of the latching relay for the block before that block section.

You need a latching relay for each of the block sections. So if you have 7 block sections, you need 7 latching relays. The opening and closing you wire to chase around the loop, easy.

I have set my mine up as effectively plug & play. If a relay were to fail (not likely) I simply plug a new one into a 16pin IC seat. The latching relay I used is double pole double throw, so very easy to wire in both open circuit for previous block section and closed for the block section before that, easy.


This wiring may look complex on the surface. But the only complexity is to make it simple. So if a switch or relay fails, I can simply plug in a new generic unit. All switch wiring is exactly the same. Each of the 1 to 8 switches are exactly the same. A have spares made up.


Knock up a 3 block section test loop to get your head around the wiring. You will eventually see the simplicity. Then whether you have 3 blocks or dozens, it will make sense, be patient, but you will get there.

Is there any software that lets you design track with Märklin miniclub Z scale catenary ?
I am using AnyRail 6 which does not have catenary.

Hello, hope all is well.

Catenary setup and operation seems like a somewhat neglected topic in Z. There are some who set it up for looks without the intention of actually using it,but it is easy to understand the potential for reliable operation, once it is properly installed. Catenary sets are expensive and one set might not meet the needs for your entire layout. Other vendors make catenary for z scale, but the German sources are also expensive and are more prototypical in appearance.

A track planning guide was recently mentioned in one of the topics posted here. Page 52 begins the short description of catenary. Just search recent posts if you want to review this document. I am not aware of an extensive manual for catenary setup, but I imagine, the same principles of setup which are found in HO guides would apply to Z. Further research may lead to an answer to the many questions we have.

I also found the instructions included with the two different catenary sets which are available from Marklin.

8198-8199-8914-8921-8926-8927.pdf (1,157kb) downloaded 103 time(s)..

I checked with a track planning software which I am aware of called SCARM. The description does not mention the topic of catenary in Z scale, but may in fact be supported.

Hope this helps a bit.

Take good care.

Dwight

Thanks for all your feedback.

After some searching, the track design software, in AnyRail in particular, wasn't built-in as catenary requires a lot of fiddling and tweaks - even in the real world.

So I'll take TooSmall's approach and design on paper. This requires having a few physical parts to design with.
Before I make the purchase, I have some catenary pieces that I manually moved around the layout, eye-balled, and penciled in to get an idea of how many pieces I would need to order.
I'll order a few extra for contingency.
The blue pen is track, the gray pencil is catenary.



This pencil layout was then transferred into AnyRail, I've also made the straights longer.



It allows for the train to automatically run from the inner to outer loop and vice versa. Works in both directions.
Max train length would be about 400mm so that there is no potential derailment when the points are switched.
I've marked catenary masts in by hand.
I've also marked the wiring with the coloured lines.
The brown rectangles will be the baseboard support beams.

And here is a mock-up of what the curved turnout section would look like:



BTW: I'm a beginner, just starting a small diorama with working track/switch/section. This catenary layout you see is something to play with/learn about whilst making the diorama - parts will be re-purposed once I get to making a proper layout.

Edited by user 15 November 2022 07:52:05(UTC)  | Reason: Add updates of design

The mast installed in the metal clip. There is the normal inner position & there is the outer position, though not ideal it should allow clearance. You need to nail the clip down through the hole in outside end of the clip.

Yes, that could work. I'd need to super glue the masts into their outer position. Should still be able to nail them in place as the feet won't have any hold on the track.
Also I'll test with catenary wire to see if the locomotive still picks up power - should be alright as the mast is only moved by ~0.5mm

A mock-up of how I did the track bed base and mast base. The white base is only about 50mm wide to allow for greater topography height variation. Plan your topography at the start. It is actually the original elevation which otherwise you will have to spend a lot of effort on with the excavators. Look at the landscape first.

Your diorama is looking good. You can improve the Märklin catenary posts with a bit of paint - darken the metals bits, highlight the insulators, etc and then some weathering.

Carim

Amen to that ...



Ditto - its amazing what you can get away with by hinting at the existence of something.
The other thing to remember is that there is no such thing as a mistake in scenery, you'll find an example of it somewhere in the world.