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Offline AmalfiCoast  
#1 Posted : 14 January 2022 01:20:19(UTC)
AmalfiCoast

United States   
Joined: 04/11/2016(UTC)
Posts: 153
Location: Maryland, South Laurel
Hey everyone! My dad just got a 1 gauge Marklin 54562. We are both new to 1 gauge and don't even have any track yet. Is there a way to test the locomotive using an AC transformer and placing the wires on the wheels? I've set the switches according to the manual for AC operation. Dip switch 9 and 10 (0) are set to off and the larger switch is set to AC (forward position). Where do you need to touch the transformer wires to test the motor?1642119585798944644430895146205.jpg
Offline Bigdaddynz  
#2 Posted : 14 January 2022 02:27:51(UTC)
Bigdaddynz

New Zealand   
Joined: 17/09/2006(UTC)
Posts: 18,409
Location: New Zealand
The pickup contacts for large Gauge 1 steam locos are normally on the tender wheels (the decoder is probably also in the tender), so find those and apply the wires to those wheels.

I'd advise you to get some soft foam blocks to support the loco - G1 locos weigh quite a bit and all that weight on the smokestack and boiler domes is not a good idea. Plus once the wheels start turning the loco will tend to want to fall over so you will need something to support the loco while it is upside down.
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Offline AmalfiCoast  
#3 Posted : 14 January 2022 02:48:13(UTC)
AmalfiCoast

United States   
Joined: 04/11/2016(UTC)
Posts: 153
Location: Maryland, South Laurel
We tried touching the transformer wires to all wheel combinations on the tender (where you can see the pickup locations) and nothing. We are using a 76646 transformer, 32 VA, 1.9 A output. Smoke and sound switches have been switched off. Have also confirmed good voltage from the wires with a multimeter. Any ideas?
Offline Bigdaddynz  
#4 Posted : 14 January 2022 03:54:33(UTC)
Bigdaddynz

New Zealand   
Joined: 17/09/2006(UTC)
Posts: 18,409
Location: New Zealand
The alternate is to find someone with some track - a dealer or club or a friend who has some track. The loco will probably run OK on LGB straights (don't try curves or points).

If they also have a digital controller, that's an extra bonus.

I presume the tender is properly plugged into the loco with the plug properly seated. I'm also assuming the loco isn't brand new, did the previous owner have it running?
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Offline AmalfiCoast  
#5 Posted : 14 January 2022 04:37:58(UTC)
AmalfiCoast

United States   
Joined: 04/11/2016(UTC)
Posts: 153
Location: Maryland, South Laurel
Yes, next step would be to try it on some actual track. I have an MS2 for my HO layout so we could try that as well.

Regarding the tender, it appears to be plugged in, but we may need to figure out how to take the body off or take the tender apart to check. There does not appear to be any access to the connectors without taking things apart.

The loco is also not new and I'm unsure of the previous owner's experience with it. We could try reaching out for help. I've attached a few pics of inside the tender. Are there any tricks to opening these up further to check electrical connections? When applying power to the wheels, not even the lights illuminate. IMG_20220113_220240220_HDR.jpgIMG_20220113_222707736_HDR.jpgIMG_20220113_222815169.jpg
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Offline ktsolias  
#6 Posted : 14 January 2022 12:31:59(UTC)
ktsolias

Greece   
Joined: 01/05/2016(UTC)
Posts: 580
Location: Athens
Hi
Below you will see my conversion of the same loco with an ESU Loksound 5 XL decoder

The tender after removing the case. (is a bit complicated but with patient is OK)
IMG_82260_resize.JPG

First is the decoder PCB
IMG_82261_resize.JPG

Next is another PCB with the support electronics remove it as well
IMG_82262_resize.JPG

And the base PCB. There is no need to remove it. There is a connector with the loco which can go on both connectors on the PCB, they are exactly the same. The one looking to the loco is most convenient.

There are Hall sensors in the loco. You don't need them. Just not connect the three cables for the HALL
With a multimeter you have to find the connections. The Märklin color code is used. So you need to find the U+ (orange), Front light (gray), Rear light (yellow) AUX1 Smoke (Br/red) and green + blue motor.
The resistors for the LED's are already installed on the PCB
IMG_82263_resize.JPG

The ESU base plate for the decoder (ESU 51971) is fitted in place and all the soldering work is done
IMG_82268_resize.JPG

You need some spacers and screws to fix the base plate over the old one
IMG_82269_resize.JPG

IMG_82264_resize.JPG

The ESU 58515 LocSound 5 XL decoder
IMG_82270_resize.JPG
IMG_82271_resize.JPG

The decoder in place
IMG_82273_resize.JPG

IMG_82272_resize.JPG

Programming with the ESU LokProgrammer
IMG_82292_resize.JPG

The result is fantastic.
The cost of the decoder + Base plate is 230€

The new decoder with the beautiful sounds (you can check them on the ESU website) and the excellent driving characteristics give a new dimension and life to this beautiful loco.

If you need any more help don't hesitate to ask.

Best Regards

Costas




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Offline AmalfiCoast  
#7 Posted : 14 January 2022 18:38:22(UTC)
AmalfiCoast

United States   
Joined: 04/11/2016(UTC)
Posts: 153
Location: Maryland, South Laurel
Hi Costas,

Thanks for the detailed writeup and photos! We will look into upgrading the decoder, especially if the we still cannot get the locomotive to run as is. Have you taken the body off the locomotive to inspect the motor and associated components? What is the best way to take the body off?

Also, what MS2 and booster should be used for 1 scale?

David
Offline ktsolias  
#8 Posted : 14 January 2022 19:26:58(UTC)
ktsolias

Greece   
Joined: 01/05/2016(UTC)
Posts: 580
Location: Athens
The plan of the loco

https://www.maerklin.de/...lnummer=54561&lang=2

You can take off the cabinet and to have access to the motor but the hole operation is not very easy.

You can check the motor without the disassembly of the body if you give a 10-16 V= to the blue and green wire.

Check also if the wheels and gears are free or if are stacked from hardened oil.

You can clean with a brush and isopropyl alcohol.

Costas
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Offline ktsolias  
#9 Posted : 14 January 2022 19:40:48(UTC)
ktsolias

Greece   
Joined: 01/05/2016(UTC)
Posts: 580
Location: Athens
For Märklin 1 the recommended controller is a CS3 with a 100VA transformer.
But for just one loco you can use MS2 as well

Costas
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Offline AmalfiCoast  
#10 Posted : 14 January 2022 20:28:44(UTC)
AmalfiCoast

United States   
Joined: 04/11/2016(UTC)
Posts: 153
Location: Maryland, South Laurel
Hi Costas,

Thanks again. We will take another look at it tonight and let you know what we find. For applying power to the green and blue wires to test the motor, can that be power from the leads of an AC transformer or does it need to be a separate DC voltage?

David
Offline Purellum  
#11 Posted : 14 January 2022 21:00:49(UTC)
Purellum

Denmark   
Joined: 08/11/2005(UTC)
Posts: 3,441
Location: Mullerup, 4200 Slagelse
Cool

Originally Posted by: AmalfiCoast Go to Quoted Post
Hi Costas,

Thanks again. We will take another look at it tonight and let you know what we find. For applying power to the green and blue wires to test the motor, can that be power from the leads of an AC transformer or does it need to be a separate DC voltage?

David


DC when connecting directly to the motor Cool

Per.

Cool
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Offline phils2um  
#12 Posted : 14 January 2022 22:44:58(UTC)
phils2um

United States   
Joined: 12/01/2016(UTC)
Posts: 157
Location: Michigan, Ann Arbor
Originally Posted by: AmalfiCoast Go to Quoted Post
Yes, next step would be to try it on some actual track. I have an MS2 for my HO layout so we could try that as well.

Regarding the tender, it appears to be plugged in, but we may need to figure out how to take the body off or take the tender apart to check. There does not appear to be any access to the connectors without taking things apart.

The loco is also not new and I'm unsure of the previous owner's experience with it. We could try reaching out for help. I've attached a few pics of inside the tender. Are there any tricks to opening these up further to check electrical connections? When applying power to the wheels, not even the lights illuminate. IMG_20220113_220240220_HDR.jpgIMG_20220113_222707736_HDR.jpgIMG_20220113_222815169.jpg


Late to the party here, and not familiar with this particular loco but looks to me like connector between the loco and tender came unplugged.
x.jpg
Phil S.
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Offline AmalfiCoast  
#13 Posted : 14 January 2022 23:00:29(UTC)
AmalfiCoast

United States   
Joined: 04/11/2016(UTC)
Posts: 153
Location: Maryland, South Laurel
Will check this tonight! Costas shows another connector on the PCB off to the side so it may be plugged in at the secondary location but will verify. Thanks for the suggestion!
Offline ktsolias  
#14 Posted : 14 January 2022 23:08:00(UTC)
ktsolias

Greece   
Joined: 01/05/2016(UTC)
Posts: 580
Location: Athens
Originally Posted by: phils2um Go to Quoted Post
Originally Posted by: AmalfiCoast Go to Quoted Post
Yes, next step would be to try it on some actual track. I have an MS2 for my HO layout so we could try that as well.

Regarding the tender, it appears to be plugged in, but we may need to figure out how to take the body off or take the tender apart to check. There does not appear to be any access to the connectors without taking things apart.

The loco is also not new and I'm unsure of the previous owner's experience with it. We could try reaching out for help. I've attached a few pics of inside the tender. Are there any tricks to opening these up further to check electrical connections? When applying power to the wheels, not even the lights illuminate. IMG_20220113_220240220_HDR.jpgIMG_20220113_222707736_HDR.jpgIMG_20220113_222815169.jpg


Late to the party here, and not familiar with this particular loco but looks to me like connector between the loco and tender came unplugged.
x.jpg


Yes this is the connector where the plug is original. I mention that and after the conversion you have to use this connector. The other is far away and the cable is sort

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Offline owidgie  
#15 Posted : 09 July 2022 02:16:44(UTC)
owidgie

United States   
Joined: 03/06/2007(UTC)
Posts: 115
Hello everyone, I have a Maxi 54562 loco also. Unfortunately the manual is missing. Is there someone out there that could take a picture of the english part that explains the decoder pots and the smoke generator switch - Is forward on or off?

Thanks in advance!

Rick
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