 Joined: 04/11/2016(UTC) Posts: 153 Location: Maryland, South Laurel
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Hey everyone! My dad just got a 1 gauge Marklin 54562. We are both new to 1 gauge and don't even have any track yet. Is there a way to test the locomotive using an AC transformer and placing the wires on the wheels? I've set the switches according to the manual for AC operation. Dip switch 9 and 10 (0) are set to off and the larger switch is set to AC (forward position). Where do you need to touch the transformer wires to test the motor? 
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 Joined: 17/09/2006(UTC) Posts: 18,772 Location: New Zealand
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The pickup contacts for large Gauge 1 steam locos are normally on the tender wheels (the decoder is probably also in the tender), so find those and apply the wires to those wheels.
I'd advise you to get some soft foam blocks to support the loco - G1 locos weigh quite a bit and all that weight on the smokestack and boiler domes is not a good idea. Plus once the wheels start turning the loco will tend to want to fall over so you will need something to support the loco while it is upside down.
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 1 user liked this useful post by Bigdaddynz
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Joined: 04/11/2016(UTC) Posts: 153 Location: Maryland, South Laurel
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We tried touching the transformer wires to all wheel combinations on the tender (where you can see the pickup locations) and nothing. We are using a 76646 transformer, 32 VA, 1.9 A output. Smoke and sound switches have been switched off. Have also confirmed good voltage from the wires with a multimeter. Any ideas?
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Joined: 17/09/2006(UTC) Posts: 18,772 Location: New Zealand
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The alternate is to find someone with some track - a dealer or club or a friend who has some track. The loco will probably run OK on LGB straights (don't try curves or points).
If they also have a digital controller, that's an extra bonus.
I presume the tender is properly plugged into the loco with the plug properly seated. I'm also assuming the loco isn't brand new, did the previous owner have it running?
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1 user liked this useful post by Bigdaddynz
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Joined: 04/11/2016(UTC) Posts: 153 Location: Maryland, South Laurel
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Yes, next step would be to try it on some actual track. I have an MS2 for my HO layout so we could try that as well. Regarding the tender, it appears to be plugged in, but we may need to figure out how to take the body off or take the tender apart to check. There does not appear to be any access to the connectors without taking things apart. The loco is also not new and I'm unsure of the previous owner's experience with it. We could try reaching out for help. I've attached a few pics of inside the tender. Are there any tricks to opening these up further to check electrical connections? When applying power to the wheels, not even the lights illuminate.   
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1 user liked this useful post by AmalfiCoast
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 Joined: 01/05/2016(UTC) Posts: 623 Location: Athens
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Hi Below you will see my conversion of the same loco with an ESU Loksound 5 XL decoder The tender after removing the case. (is a bit complicated but with patient is OK)  First is the decoder PCB  Next is another PCB with the support electronics remove it as well  And the base PCB. There is no need to remove it. There is a connector with the loco which can go on both connectors on the PCB, they are exactly the same. The one looking to the loco is most convenient. There are Hall sensors in the loco. You don't need them. Just not connect the three cables for the HALL With a multimeter you have to find the connections. The Märklin color code is used. So you need to find the U+ (orange), Front light (gray), Rear light (yellow) AUX1 Smoke (Br/red) and green + blue motor. The resistors for the LED's are already installed on the PCB  The ESU base plate for the decoder (ESU 51971) is fitted in place and all the soldering work is done  You need some spacers and screws to fix the base plate over the old one   The ESU 58515 LocSound 5 XL decoder   The decoder in place   Programming with the ESU LokProgrammer  The result is fantastic. The cost of the decoder + Base plate is 230€ The new decoder with the beautiful sounds (you can check them on the ESU website) and the excellent driving characteristics give a new dimension and life to this beautiful loco. If you need any more help don't hesitate to ask. Best Regards Costas
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3 users liked this useful post by ktsolias
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Joined: 04/11/2016(UTC) Posts: 153 Location: Maryland, South Laurel
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Hi Costas,
Thanks for the detailed writeup and photos! We will look into upgrading the decoder, especially if the we still cannot get the locomotive to run as is. Have you taken the body off the locomotive to inspect the motor and associated components? What is the best way to take the body off?
Also, what MS2 and booster should be used for 1 scale?
David
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Joined: 01/05/2016(UTC) Posts: 623 Location: Athens
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The plan of the loco https://www.maerklin.de/...lnummer=54561&lang=2You can take off the cabinet and to have access to the motor but the hole operation is not very easy. You can check the motor without the disassembly of the body if you give a 10-16 V= to the blue and green wire. Check also if the wheels and gears are free or if are stacked from hardened oil. You can clean with a brush and isopropyl alcohol. Costas
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1 user liked this useful post by ktsolias
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Joined: 01/05/2016(UTC) Posts: 623 Location: Athens
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For Märklin 1 the recommended controller is a CS3 with a 100VA transformer.
But for just one loco you can use MS2 as well
Costas
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1 user liked this useful post by ktsolias
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Joined: 04/11/2016(UTC) Posts: 153 Location: Maryland, South Laurel
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Hi Costas,
Thanks again. We will take another look at it tonight and let you know what we find. For applying power to the green and blue wires to test the motor, can that be power from the leads of an AC transformer or does it need to be a separate DC voltage?
David
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 Joined: 08/11/2005(UTC) Posts: 3,528 Location: Mullerup, 4200 Slagelse
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 Originally Posted by: AmalfiCoast  Hi Costas,
Thanks again. We will take another look at it tonight and let you know what we find. For applying power to the green and blue wires to test the motor, can that be power from the leads of an AC transformer or does it need to be a separate DC voltage?
David DC when connecting directly to the motor Per. |
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2 users liked this useful post by Purellum
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Joined: 12/01/2016(UTC) Posts: 165 Location: Michigan, Ann Arbor
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Originally Posted by: AmalfiCoast Yes, next step would be to try it on some actual track. I have an MS2 for my HO layout so we could try that as well. Regarding the tender, it appears to be plugged in, but we may need to figure out how to take the body off or take the tender apart to check. There does not appear to be any access to the connectors without taking things apart. The loco is also not new and I'm unsure of the previous owner's experience with it. We could try reaching out for help. I've attached a few pics of inside the tender. Are there any tricks to opening these up further to check electrical connections? When applying power to the wheels, not even the lights illuminate. Late to the party here, and not familiar with this particular loco but looks to me like connector between the loco and tender came unplugged.  |
Phil S. |
1 user liked this useful post by phils2um
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Joined: 04/11/2016(UTC) Posts: 153 Location: Maryland, South Laurel
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Will check this tonight! Costas shows another connector on the PCB off to the side so it may be plugged in at the secondary location but will verify. Thanks for the suggestion!
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Joined: 01/05/2016(UTC) Posts: 623 Location: Athens
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Originally Posted by: phils2um Originally Posted by: AmalfiCoast Yes, next step would be to try it on some actual track. I have an MS2 for my HO layout so we could try that as well. Regarding the tender, it appears to be plugged in, but we may need to figure out how to take the body off or take the tender apart to check. There does not appear to be any access to the connectors without taking things apart. The loco is also not new and I'm unsure of the previous owner's experience with it. We could try reaching out for help. I've attached a few pics of inside the tender. Are there any tricks to opening these up further to check electrical connections? When applying power to the wheels, not even the lights illuminate. Late to the party here, and not familiar with this particular loco but looks to me like connector between the loco and tender came unplugged. Yes this is the connector where the plug is original. I mention that and after the conversion you have to use this connector. The other is far away and the cable is sort
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1 user liked this useful post by ktsolias
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Joined: 03/06/2007(UTC) Posts: 169
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Hello everyone, I have a Maxi 54562 loco also. Unfortunately the manual is missing. Is there someone out there that could take a picture of the english part that explains the decoder pots and the smoke generator switch - Is forward on or off?
Thanks in advance!
Rick
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