Joined: 11/01/2022(UTC) Posts: 4 Location: HaMerkaz, Petah Tikva
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Need advice to overcome a ~4 mm gap in the marklin C track layout.Tried conventional method of averaging out but I still miss this gap distance. The electricity is ok on both sides but the wheels of the cars cannot pass the gap. Appreciate a solution Thanks Ef
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Joined: 16/02/2004(UTC) Posts: 15,442 Location: DE-NW
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Hi, Ef! Welcome to the forum!
If you would show what you have (track plan) then we can make better suggestions. That is, if you are interested in a solution that works without cutting an gluing. With cutting and gluing it will be easy to solve the issue. |
Regards Tom --- "In all of the gauges, we particularly emphasize a high level of quality, the best possible fidelity to the prototype, and absolute precision. You will see that in all of our products." (from Märklin New Items Brochure 2015, page 1) ROFLBTCUTS  |
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Joined: 11/01/2022(UTC) Posts: 4 Location: HaMerkaz, Petah Tikva
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Thanks Tom The problem is that the track is already embedded in the landscape and i cannot change the structure. I would like to avoid cutting/gluing options
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 1 user liked this useful post by Ephraim
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Joined: 10/02/2021(UTC) Posts: 3,882 Location: Michigan, Troy
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Hello Ephram! If you can't shim the track if it is unlevel to close the gap, you can try a dot of solder in it. I have done it with K track. Sometimes temperature changes cause tracks to move a bit. I have C track joining K track on a bridge approach. I noticed a current break when the temperature changes.
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Joined: 11/01/2022(UTC) Posts: 4 Location: HaMerkaz, Petah Tikva
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Tnx 5999 Will try the soldering approach Any particular tip with respect to track cleanup prior to soldering (acetone, ethylalcohol, isopropanol ) ?
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Joined: 11/01/2022(UTC) Posts: 4 Location: HaMerkaz, Petah Tikva
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Tnx 5999 Will try the soldering approach Any particular tip with respect to track cleanup prior to soldering (acetone, ethylalcohol, isopropanol ) ?
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Joined: 10/02/2021(UTC) Posts: 3,882 Location: Michigan, Troy
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Alcohol should be fine, just be sure it's dry afterward before soldering. Use thin wire solder so as not to make a bump in the track, or a buldge in the side. You may have difficulty filing the sides of the rail. That could also cause derailures.
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Joined: 23/04/2019(UTC) Posts: 497 Location: Copenhagen, Denmark
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I haven't any experience in soldering tracks so I don't know how well the tin will adhere to the metal. Maybe it would be a good idea to practice on some spare pieces of track before doing it on the layout?
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 1 user liked this useful post by Copenhagen
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Joined: 16/02/2004(UTC) Posts: 15,442 Location: DE-NW
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4 mm is a big gap to be filled with solder alone. More realistic to fill it with a piece of wire that is soldered in.
To resolve a purely mechanical problem it might be better to glue a little piece of plastic or even wood into the gap. |
Regards Tom --- "In all of the gauges, we particularly emphasize a high level of quality, the best possible fidelity to the prototype, and absolute precision. You will see that in all of our products." (from Märklin New Items Brochure 2015, page 1) ROFLBTCUTS  |
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Joined: 10/02/2006(UTC) Posts: 3,997
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I would sacrifice 6mm of rail from some other track, file it down to the right length and push it into place, hold it in place with superglue. |
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 2 users liked this useful post by DaleSchultz
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Joined: 23/07/2014(UTC) Posts: 8,464 Location: ENGLAND, Didcot
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Originally Posted by: DaleSchultz  I would sacrifice 6mm of rail from some other track, file it down to the right length and push it into place, hold it in place with superglue. Marklin do supply packs of track joiners for C track, for people who cut to custom lengths.
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 2 users liked this useful post by kiwiAlan
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