Hello, I would like to add a "City Station" to my layout, however I don't have the skills or patience to assemble one properly from a kit -- my attempts at kit-building in the past have been awful! For this reason, I prefer the assembled "built-up" models which are offered by Woodland Scenics, for example. Unfortunately, I have not found an assembled railway station (City Station) that is suitable; the Woodland Scenics people offer only "train depots" which are quite small. Does anyone know of a resource for this? For example, someone who would assemble and paint a kit professionally for a fee? If this has been asked and answered already, I apologize -- I just couldn't find any similar inquiry. Thanks for any and all help!

Hi there,
PM send long time ago.

I am a professional architectural model builder, retired now, building physical and 3D models.

Most people are surprised at the complexity, time and cost involved. A small marketing model of a block of units will take about 3 weeks to construct.

And that is if you get a good set of architectural drawing. Often I refused work because it simply wasn't worth dealing with shocking drawings. One could see where it would lead to. Not worth the stress.

The more detail on the model, the longer it takes to build.

You could get a model 3D printed. But it still has to be build as a working 3D model, a lot of work. I have seen some failures as the 3D model had mistakes with points and polygons. Every single one has to be exact.

Then painting, usually in separate parts for painting different colours. I have spent 3 days simply masking a model as it was too difficult to do separate parts.

Then you have glazing, you can only do so many windows per hour. Window frames, more time.

Brima in Germany offers the service, I'm sure. But it won't be cheap. I would expect EUR several hundred for a medium sized model.

The way I read the request, the member (no name?) was looking for someone to assemble an already-produced kit - ie Faller, Auhagen, Kibri etc, rather than designing and constructing something from scratch.

Correct me if I'm wrong of course.

Either way, even a basic very simple kit can easily take an hour or two, and that's literally a 4-sided box with a base and roof.

Some station buildings are quite elaborate, and the more 'glass' there is (windows etc) the more fiddly it can be. nothing spoils a windows or join more than a run of glue or a smudge.

It would help a great deal for a reference to an existing model that was desired, or at least something close to it.

All the major manufacturers have their catalogue online or a simple google search for railway stations in the style you want would be a starting point.

The likelihood is that the labour to build the kit could easily exceed the cost of the kit itself. In the earlier years of Faller, they offered fully assembled versions of many of their models and they were definitely more expensive than the kits, because of the labour factor.

If you have a retailer you intend to purchase from, why not ask them?, they may be prepared to build it for you, or have customers they know to ask if they are interested.

But do be realistic about the time it will take and the possible costs. You might also consider approaching a local model-railway club if you have one in your area, they could either offer assistance or refer you on to a member willing to assist.

And don't overlook younger people. With the right guidance they may do an excellent job. Having young eyes and nimble fingers can make a big difference. But have them practice on a couple of test 'sacrificial' kits first to see what their skills are like.

This is a "nothing" building, already spent a good days work on it. Made from 1mm styrene, no glazing yet. Will need to get some "Aral blue" or similar. Still need to make the pumps etc. So far the most fiddly bit is the Aral fascia board which has a split angle front face. Not really difficult, but basically fiddly. On one hand the fascia is a minor issue but as one looks at roofs on all scale models whether architectural or railway, it is worth putting in the effort on roofs... sadly! The actual metal roofing is separate from the fascia so I can paint it separately to save masking.

Toosmal, will you be able to get cheaper petrol ?

Here is the raw 0.75 and 1.0mm styrene skeleton of the finished model. This is probably the hardest part of building the model. Initially turning two dimensions into three.

You have to look at what surfaces you can leave off to paint separately, like balcony tiles, roof surfaces, obviously glazing, louvres will be separate, balustrade whether glass or metal will be added later but you need to plan ahead so it can be attached in a presentable form, maybe a slot or held with a gap at the edge of the tiles.

The model is like a giant jigsaw puzzle, different colours, different textures like balcony tiles.

I couldn't separate all of this model, so had to mask off some of the brick surfaces. I will mask off balconies even though tiles go on top so paint doesn't build up.

Always spray paint the difficult corners first.

Fortunately these models are rarely lit, but if it is, it needs to be painted black inside when white.

For glazing you still need to build the model so it doesn't collapse but still have access to get the glazing in. Modern buildings with lots of glazing are difficult to build as there is lot less structure to hold it together. You do have to build a model with structural integrity.

I have often had feedback from builders and even architects that they refer to the model to see how the finished building will look like. The model maker finds the skyhooks in the architectural drawings!

A physical model has no option but to work. A 3D model you can get away with things not actually working.

It's a pain in the neck when architects have curves in their design. It takes 10 times longer to build. There are various tricks to help, but curves are more painful.

If the model needs custom metal etched balustrade or other features. This has its own lead time so you need to design that to fit the model, looking for all the architectural drawing mistakes.


1:200 scale model

Like 1:1 scale, build templates to form curve & laminate a few layers of thinner styrene.

It's over a decade since I bought any, from memory in Silverwater. But if you look up 'high impact styrene'. 1370 x 760mm or 2440 x 1220mm sheets, I always bought the smaller sheets, easier to do the cut. It's really cheap so don't waste energy trying to save every last piece.

0.75 & 1.0mm are the most used thickness, 1:200 models most 0.75mm. A sheet of 0.5mm (for laminating curves) & 1.5mm (for structural areas) is handy. You can roll up the sheets for transport, same with Forex (3mm is a bit stiff, 1 & 2mm is easy)

Forex is a brand name, it is foamed PVC, there are different qualities.

A sheet or 1mm polycarbonate for windows. If you want translucent glazing, back spray it.

Some suppliers (Australia, Sydney):
https://www.mulfordplastics.com.au

https://www.allplastics.com.au

https://www.perspexonline.com.au

1370 x 760mm
0.75mm $14.03
1.0mm $18.70

The styrene I usually cut of a 300mm wide piece x 760mm (Toledo (best ruler & mat finish) 1m ruler makes life easier), then cut that to, often, 150mm the other way. It is worthwhile cutting absolutely square so when you get down to the latter cuts you know you always have a square piece. Just saves time in the long run. I always remove the protection film from the whole sheet. Also usually work on the back of the sheet. Often give the polished side a light sanding.

An engineer's square is extremely handy for cutting edge.

If you need spray glue 3M Super77 (Eckersley's, while there get a scoring tool so you can make your own tiles etc) is the only one worth using. A can goes a very long way.


A small engineer's square is your third most used tool, a 150mm square is handy as well, but get a little one first. I have even cut a few of the 150mm rulers down for measuring inside of buildings for usually doing glazing.



This is for another project but one can't have too many Toledo rulers. For model making I have bent a few so they hold down more firmly on the surface.



Mentioned elsewhere, a Winsor Newton series 7 brush for solvents, start with a 0 or 1 size. They are the only brushes that last long term.

Notes on tools:

You need an 'engineers square' it has a block on one side & the block needs to come close to the outside edge of the thin arm.
(Australia)
https://sydneytools.com....75mm-3-machinists-square
You use the square to cut off walls. Window openings you score one side, flex the styrene, then you see the stress crack on the back & the scalpel blade will follow the line. Then flex back & forth to pop out the piece for the opening. After practice you can get very thin widths between 2 openings.

Get a double sided ruler with imperial on the back, often they are cheaper anyway. If you start scoring tiles or lines, it gives you another range of different width markings.
(Australia)
https://www.totaltools.c...inless-steel-ruler-30012

(Australia, Sydney)
Hardware & General, industrial shop (top floor), Brookvale, have Toledo rulers.

Files not needed, make sanding blocks, much more useful.

A couple of nickel scalpel handles & a box or 2 of 10A blades.

A few tweezers. Blunt point, fine point. Later you may want to bend some to place things better. Often stabbing a small part with scalpel blade is quicker & easier than tweezers, especially dipping end in solvent.

Masking tape to tape styrene & rulers together, you are doing this quite often, the reason I have so many 300mm rulers, & also painting!

A cutting Matt, again a small one is all you need.

I don't really use a pin vise that often. A spike often is quicker.

A good area light, a couple of LED fluro types. Or just good window lighting with something to defuse the light a bit to get going.

Better that the desktop is darker for better contrast compared to the actual job. A piece of cardboard from newsagent will do. It is also to soak up excess solvent on tiny parts.
(cutting mat is 3 decades old)
A wide block if your solvent is in a jar so you don't knock it over, you can make a holder from some offcuts of styrene. Also make sure you have a bit of ventilation.


I do spread out when doing paid work (for multi story highrise buildings & other large complex models I stick a second copy of each drawing up on the walls for quick reference, sometimes the floor is also covered with drawings as well. Far easier that flipping through drawings on the screen. Often you need 2, 3 or 4 drawings at one time, usually because the architect has got it wrong & you are trying to work out what he is incapable of drawing, a regular occurrence!). There are other things on the table, but basically you really don't need a lot for building. The main tool is one's head!