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Offline abisel  
#51 Posted : 17 February 2013 19:41:36(UTC)
abisel

United States   
Joined: 07/12/2012(UTC)
Posts: 139
Location: St. Charles, Missouri
^^^ Steve,
It is my understanding that the factory installs solid plugs and then drills them on a jig.


An update:

I received the DuraCoat firearms finish in Semigloss HK Black. After a little reading of the instructions and a test on a piece of sheet metal, I think it is about as close as you can get to the original color and gloss of the old 3048 and it would be a hard durable finish once fully cured.

DuraCoat is a two-part coating that can be applied, to parkerizing, bluing, anodized aluminum or on bare metal without a primer. The instructions recommend cleaning the part with their degrease/cleaner, media blasting with aluminum oxide then blowing off the dust with an air gun. My part had already been blasted so I just cleaned with the degrease/cleaner and blow dry with an air gun.

The color and hardener are mixed at a 12:1 ratio. No reducer is needed unless you airbrush with a fine needle/nozzle. I had the pressure set to 25psi on the compressor. My airbrush is an older Badger 150 with a medium needle and nozzle. The instructions say to apply a thin coat, let it flash off for a couple minutes and then apply another coat. If a third coat is wanted, a second flash off is needed before the third coat. Very much like what is done with automotive paints.

It turned out pretty nice. The instructions say to wait 24 hours before assembly and 3 to 4 weeks for a full cure.

A few pictures:
Test spray on a piece of sheet metal. Nice semigloss sheen.
DSC_0045.JPG

The components after the chassis had been painted:
DSC_0043-1.JPG

A close-up:
DSC_0046.JPG

Edited by user 30 November 2017 03:54:24(UTC)  | Reason: Not specified

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Offline cookee_nz  
#52 Posted : 17 February 2013 19:52:55(UTC)
cookee_nz

New Zealand   
Joined: 31/12/2010(UTC)
Posts: 3,411
Location: Paremata, Wellington
Good job, looks just like a new one and I can almost smell the paint.

Did you put the rods through the bearings to stop paint overspray?, don't forget to clean out the Armature bearing also, easier to do when the paint is still soft.

Cookee
Wellington
NZ image
Offline abisel  
#53 Posted : 17 February 2013 20:13:54(UTC)
abisel

United States   
Joined: 07/12/2012(UTC)
Posts: 139
Location: St. Charles, Missouri
Yeah, I stuck Q-tips into the bearings to keep overspray from getting inside, plus it helped to handle the thing while painting it.

I do plan to clean up the bearing surface for the armatur. Also the hole for the shaft of the first gear after the armature and the hole for the shaft of the second gear (I forgot to put a Q-tip stick into this hole. Dang it!)
Offline NZMarklinist  
#54 Posted : 18 February 2013 01:57:24(UTC)
NZMarklinist

New Zealand   
Joined: 15/03/2011(UTC)
Posts: 1,757
Location: Auckland NZ
Originally Posted by: abisel Go to Quoted Post
Yeah, I stuck Q-tips into the bearings to keep overspray from getting inside, plus it helped to handle the thing while painting it.

I do plan to clean up the bearing surface for the armatur. Also the hole for the shaft of the first gear after the armature and the hole for the shaft of the second gear (I forgot to put a Q-tip stick into this hole. Dang it!)



Looking good abisel ThumpUp
Glen
Auckland NZ

" Every Marklin layout needs a V200, a Railbus and a Banana car", not to mention a few Black and red Steamers, oh and the odd Elok !

CS1 Reloaded, Touch Cab, C Track Modules, K track layout all under construction. Currently Insider
Offline river6109  
#55 Posted : 18 February 2013 07:43:37(UTC)
river6109

Australia   
Joined: 22/01/2009(UTC)
Posts: 13,030
Location: On 1965 Märklin Boulevard just around from Roco Square
Abisel,

it looks very good, the part above the middle axle will this be painted red ?

John
https://www.youtube.com/river6109
https://www.youtube.com/6109river
5 years in Destruction mode
50 years in Repairing mode
Offline abisel  
#56 Posted : 06 March 2013 01:13:39(UTC)
abisel

United States   
Joined: 07/12/2012(UTC)
Posts: 139
Location: St. Charles, Missouri
An update:

The chassis is painted and I am waiting on replacement idler gears for between the main drive wheels. They should arrive soon. Then assembly of the chassis can be completed.

In the mean time, I have glass beaded the front and rear trucks, the two steam cylinders and the main locomotive housing.
Here are the trucks and cylinders after painting.
DSC_0050.JPG

Here are the trucks after assembly.
DSC_0007.JPG
DSC_0008.JPG

Here are the cylinders after removal of the paint on the high spots of the logo.
DSC_0010.JPG

Here are all the screws repainted.
DSC_0011.JPG

Here is the locomotive housing ready for paint.
DSC_0002.JPG
DSC_0001.JPG

The housing will be painted this weekend. Hopefully, I will receive the idler gears this weekend too.

I also cleaned up the wheels and drive connecting rods, and painted them with Testors Model Master Guards Red but I'm not too sure I like the color
I am looking into the DuraCoat 2-part coating once I can get a color match with the original wheel color.
DSC_0017.JPG

Cheers,

Edited by user 30 November 2017 04:03:34(UTC)  | Reason: Not specified

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Offline jvuye  
#57 Posted : 06 March 2013 10:27:31(UTC)
jvuye

Belgium   
Joined: 01/03/2008(UTC)
Posts: 2,830
Location: South Western France
Excellent job! (and with all due respect to everyone else, maybe the best and most thorough I've ever seen!)
The most complicated+ delicate part is left though, as re-assembling and quartering the wheels, gears/axles and idlers is really the critical part.
That's where you'll be able to test the precision of your bearings refit.
But I am sure it will come out **perfect***!
Cheers
Jacques Vuye aka Dr.Eisenbahn
Once a vandal, learned to be better and had great success!
Offline jvuye  
#58 Posted : 06 March 2013 11:01:09(UTC)
jvuye

Belgium   
Joined: 01/03/2008(UTC)
Posts: 2,830
Location: South Western France
Originally Posted by: cookee_nz Go to Quoted Post

I had some worn ones in a 3001 chassis many years ago and ordered replacements via the agent - supplied as Marklin part number 20025.
....
I was surprised to find they are supplied solid. I asked the person who was then acting as service agent how he drilled them out but that was considered a trade-secret. He'd do it for me but not tell me how to do it. Okaaaaay, so much for give a man a fish.... (I didn't have the tools to do it anyway but still wanted to know the theory behind it)
....



Well, trade secret? C'mon!
That guy must have felt very insecure to give you that type of BS!!
It is simple to understand the "why and how"!
It simply takes time, patience and precision. (No short cuts!)

You just need to know that there is significant shrinking on the zamac chassis after they have been pressure injected.(could be as much a 0.2 mm between holes, which is simply too much for proper meshing of gears)
Therefore the precision drilling of the bearing have to be performed *after* the part has cooled down.
It is done today on a CNC controlled drilling machine, but in the old days (and in small workshops like with yours truly..) It is done the old fashionned way : mounting on a milling-drilling machine, with proper indexing to have everyting lined up.
I cannot stress enough the absolute necessity for proper alignment of the chassis on all 3 axles.
IMHO it cannot be done without a good dial indicator.
It is also important to check/ calculate the spacing between all the gears (using mod 0.4 gears spacing formulas), referencing it at the axle of the last gear from the motor gear train (hence the one driving the first axle is the origin of all your x and y coordinates)...), then calculating the proper x and y coordinates ( one by one, and remember they are *not* all on the same line, so Pythagorus is again your best friend !!), writing these coordinates on a board, then starting to drill the bushings.
It is very important to first "mark" the start of each hole using a centering drill, then drill it to the final diameter (2.5 mm in this case) and eventually manually ream the hole until the axle fits and rotates smoothly. (This is how watchmakers used to do!)
I used to have a 2.55 mm drill bit...but had to ream it anyway, so why bother paying for a specialized hard-to-get drill?? (duh!!)
Hope this helps...but if you have more questions, don't hesitate!
Cheers
Jacques Vuye aka Dr.Eisenbahn
Once a vandal, learned to be better and had great success!
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Offline Dennis H.  
#59 Posted : 10 March 2013 01:21:55(UTC)
Dennis H.

United States   
Joined: 26/01/2013(UTC)
Posts: 51
Location: Indiana
Excellent topic here and great write up from all!! ThumpUp

Is there an accepted or standard gauge dimension (width or spacing) for the wheels once pressed on the axles? Is it sufficient to stop at the point the axle tip is flush with the wheel center face? Also, is it fair to say if your axle bushings are flush with the side of the chassis, then they are ummm.... worn out...?

I have a beater 3089 I just received with three loose wheels and a bent center axle. The difference I guess is that the 3089 only has that last axle geared instead of all three. Just trying to get an idea of what to shoot for when it goes back together. The last thing I want is to seat them too far and have to pull em back out Scared
Dennis H.
If it's old and broken, I like it
Offline seatrains  
#60 Posted : 10 March 2013 05:22:56(UTC)
seatrains

United States   
Joined: 22/11/2006(UTC)
Posts: 648
Location: Shoreline, WA
Steve, Jacques, for those of us who have not done anything more difficult than changing our loks light bulbs or brushes, you would need tools like these:
http://www.trainsahead.com/wheel_assembly.htm
Thom
European Train Enthusiast - Pacific Northwest Chapter
4th Division, Pacific Northwest Region, National Model Railroaders Association
Offline jvuye  
#61 Posted : 10 March 2013 18:25:30(UTC)
jvuye

Belgium   
Joined: 01/03/2008(UTC)
Posts: 2,830
Location: South Western France
Originally Posted by: seatrains Go to Quoted Post
Steve, Jacques, for those of us who have not done anything more difficult than changing our loks light bulbs or brushes, you would need tools like these:
http://www.trainsahead.com/wheel_assembly.htm


Absolutely!
These are exactly what I would suggest (It just happens that Fohrmann has been my favourite supplier for many years: no fuss, reliable, friendly and good qualitystuff!)

Spacing inside the flanges for Märklin 3 rail loco is 13.8 mm, so instead of using the NMRA gauge, I 'd use this Fohrmann vey handy gauge:

http://www.fohrmann.com/...ahner/rail-gauge-h0.html

There is no cure for bend axles, they have to be replaced (unless you like your lokds to exhibit a "wacky ride"Crying )
However "loose" wheels can be (in most cases) be re-assembles on the axles, providing these receive a light knurling (an operation performed on a lathe with a special tool.)

Here's an example of diamond shape knurling, but longitudinal shapes can be achieved too with the proper knurling wheels
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Knurling

Hope this helps
Jacques Vuye aka Dr.Eisenbahn
Once a vandal, learned to be better and had great success!
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Offline abisel  
#62 Posted : 28 April 2013 22:58:19(UTC)
abisel

United States   
Joined: 07/12/2012(UTC)
Posts: 139
Location: St. Charles, Missouri
Some more progress on the restoration of the 3048:

I Finally got the shell painted:

DSC_0060-1.JPG

DSC_0059-1.JPG

DSC_0060-1.JPG


And the wheels. I didn't like the Model Master paint so I started over and I found a real close match to the factory red using the DuraCoat firearm paint.

DSC_0055-1.JPG

This is a comparison of the painted wheels against factory painted wheels.

DSC_0056-1.JPG

So I am getting there, just other things keep getting in the way. Like work and business travel and the Porsche.

Cheers,

Edited by user 30 November 2017 04:08:28(UTC)  | Reason: Not specified

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Offline abisel  
#63 Posted : 11 May 2013 14:46:33(UTC)
abisel

United States   
Joined: 07/12/2012(UTC)
Posts: 139
Location: St. Charles, Missouri
Another update:

The paint on the wheels has cured and installed into the chassis along with new gearing. Even though the wheels/axles did fit snugly with a slight knurling on the ends of the axles, I did apply just a dab of red Loctite just to make sure of no slippage.

Quartering was done by comparing another 3048 locomotive with the right side leading the left side by 90 degrees.

No binding anywhere.

Next is to mask off the loco housing and paint the trim edges red. Then a final clear coat.

DSC_0069.JPG

DSC_0067.JPG

Edited by user 30 November 2017 04:10:30(UTC)  | Reason: Not specified

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Offline abisel  
#64 Posted : 19 May 2013 17:29:14(UTC)
abisel

United States   
Joined: 07/12/2012(UTC)
Posts: 139
Location: St. Charles, Missouri
FINISHED

The chassis has the electrics installed.
The loco shell is painted and assembled.
And it runs fine.

DSC_0001.JPG

DSC_0007.JPG

DSC_0003.JPG

Edited by user 30 November 2017 04:13:17(UTC)  | Reason: Not specified

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Offline 3rail4life  
#65 Posted : 19 May 2013 18:00:36(UTC)
3rail4life

United States   
Joined: 23/12/2011(UTC)
Posts: 425
Location: Northern California
Wow!Drool Fantastic work!ThumpUp ThumpUp Thanks for the awesome thread, it is truly inspirational. I just wish I had the tools and skills to do something like this. You are truley an artist abisel!

Gordon
Offline Johnvr  
#66 Posted : 19 May 2013 18:24:32(UTC)
Johnvr

South Africa   
Joined: 03/10/2010(UTC)
Posts: 1,174
Location: Cape Town, South Africa
Absolutely fantastic finishing !
Must be a beauty to see chugging around the layout.

Regards,BigGrin
John
Offline abisel  
#67 Posted : 19 May 2013 19:15:50(UTC)
abisel

United States   
Joined: 07/12/2012(UTC)
Posts: 139
Location: St. Charles, Missouri
Thanks to everyone for their inputs into the restoration of this loco. Even the smoke generator works great.

What started out as a lose drive wheel turned into a complete restoration.

  • Disassembly and determining what parts I needed to replace (axle bushings, gear train, armature, brushes).

  • Glass beading the metal components. Thanks to Klaus at Lindberg Motorsport for the use of his blast cabinet.

  • Sourcing new bushings for the axles. Custom made at a good price from American Sleeve Bearing.

  • Found an original steel replacement smoke stack from Ritter Restorations. Great people to deal with.

  • Digging out the old Badger 150 airbrush. I did have to buy a new compressor and got a little Blue Hawk.
    Blue Hawk Compressor

  • Trying to get the right color and durability paint. Ended up with firearm refinishing paint HK Black and Blood Red.
    DuraCoat

  • Using piano wire for the hand rails. Thanks to the local piano store and tuner for a free sample of No.12 wire that measures 0.029" or 0.74mm.

  • Purchased a pretty sweet tool for applying the red paint to the side of the loco. Not a constant flow technique, but rather a dab and drag technique is what I used.
    Paasche Striping Tool

All in all, it turned out pretty nice.

Thanks again to everyone.

Edited by user 09 June 2013 14:24:26(UTC)  | Reason: Not specified

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Offline biedmatt  
#68 Posted : 20 May 2013 11:52:45(UTC)
biedmatt

United States   
Joined: 09/04/2012(UTC)
Posts: 1,343
Location: Southwest Ohio
Fantastic! You should be very proud, you have every right.

I've been looking for a cherry 3021 with "Deutsche Bundesbahn" on the side. I have a 30210, but need another with a different road number. I have just about decided a repaint is going to be the only way to get what I want.
Matt
Era 3
DB lokos, coaches and freight cars from across Europe
But I do have the obligatory (six) SBB Krocs
ECoS 50200, all FX and MFX decoders replaced with ESU V4s, operated in DCC-RailCom+ with ABC brake control.
With the exception of the passenger wagens with Marklin current conducting couplers, all close couplers have been replaced with Roco 40397.
Offline Brakepad  
#69 Posted : 20 May 2013 19:36:30(UTC)
Brakepad

France, Metropolitan   
Joined: 25/08/2008(UTC)
Posts: 633
Location: Montlouis sur Loire, France
Absolutely awesome.

I'm happy to see you used the piano wire and the result is so good-I guess there's not much difference between these ones and the guitar strings.

Congratulations. A pleasure to read!
check out http://maerklin-back-on-track.blogspot.com if you like to see how old Märklin locos are brought back into life! (in spanish by the moment)
Offline jvuye  
#70 Posted : 21 May 2013 19:46:12(UTC)
jvuye

Belgium   
Joined: 01/03/2008(UTC)
Posts: 2,830
Location: South Western France
I can only say: *stunning*!
This looks as good as new...no..scrap that..*better* than new.ThumpUp
Congratulations.
Admiratively!
Jacques Vuye aka Dr.Eisenbahn
Once a vandal, learned to be better and had great success!
Offline Webmaster  
#71 Posted : 21 May 2013 21:46:33(UTC)
Webmaster


Joined: 25/07/2001(UTC)
Posts: 10,995
Originally Posted by: Brakepad Go to Quoted Post
I guess there's not much difference between these ones and the guitar strings.


Guitar strings are indeed an excellent material for handrails and for fixing broken pantographs, use it a lot myself...

Juhan - "Webmaster", at your service...
He who asks a question is a fool for five minutes. He who does not ask a question remains a fool forever. [Old Chinese Proverb]
Offline foumaro  
#72 Posted : 22 May 2013 08:09:54(UTC)
foumaro

Greece   
Joined: 08/12/2004(UTC)
Posts: 4,349
Location: Attiki Athens Greece
Perfect work and very nice presentation,congratulations.BigGrin
Offline pa-pauls  
#73 Posted : 22 May 2013 19:02:38(UTC)
pa-pauls


Joined: 08/06/2002(UTC)
Posts: 1,802
Location: Norway
Perfect work ThumpUp
Pål Paulsen
Märklin Digital, DB and SBB Era III
Offline Iamnotthecrazyone  
#74 Posted : 28 August 2013 04:27:42(UTC)
Iamnotthecrazyone

Australia   
Joined: 22/01/2012(UTC)
Posts: 1,041
Originally Posted by: jvuye Go to Quoted Post
Originally Posted by: Iamnotthecrazyone Go to Quoted Post

....
How do you manufacture the gears?
thank you?


Simple!
99% of the gears used in Märklin locos are "mod 0.4" (the metric equivalent to the diametral pitch standard)

All it takes is to invest in a set of 8 gear cutter wheels for the given module ( a US $ 500 ~ investment ) , used on a milling machine in conjunction with a divider/rotating table.
More than long explanation, here's a pic of the cutting of a angled pinion to mesh with the worm gear on a 3125 Red Arrow.
The second picture shows teh gear mounted on the axle, and you can see le light knurling I imprinted on it to ensure a lasting "grip".
(Same idea for re-assembling the wheels/drivers..Wink )
Straight gears are manufactured the same way, the axles are just then made perpendicular on the machine.
Not a fast process..but who's in a hurry?RollEyes
The tricky part is to assemble "compound" gears with two different sizes permanently pressed together, like those found on many locos.
Special care has to be taken to ensure minimal excentricity...so careful centering and and flawless indexing on the lathe and milling machine are critical. (excentricity <0.02 mm is required for small gears)


Hi as I have mentioned in another post you have no idea what you've started at this endLOL I have now a lathe an a milling machine. I still need the dividing head and a couple of things but I have a better understanding of things to ask you a few more questions. I've considered making my own cutting wheels but If I want to buy I should buy a module 0.4, right? Did you make your own cutting wheel holder or did you buy it? I may not be looking for the right thing but I didn't find many listings on ebay for that module size neither the arbor.

The mini chuck you are using in the photo which is attached to the big chuck has a rotating wheel. Why do you use that when you already have a rotary table?
Thank you Alex

Offline jvuye  
#75 Posted : 28 August 2013 08:26:03(UTC)
jvuye

Belgium   
Joined: 01/03/2008(UTC)
Posts: 2,830
Location: South Western France
Originally Posted by: Iamnotthecrazyone Go to Quoted Post


Hi as I have mentioned in another post you have no idea what you've started at this endLOL I have now a lathe an a milling machine. I still need the dividing head and a couple of things but I have a better understanding of things to ask you a few more questions. I've considered making my own cutting wheels but If I want to buy I should buy a module 0.4, right? Did you make your own cutting wheel holder or did you buy it? I may not be looking for the right thing but I didn't find many listings on ebay for that module size neither the arbor.

The mini chuck you are using in the photo which is attached to the big chuck has a rotating wheel. Why do you use that when you already have a rotary table?
Thank you Alex



Hi Alex
In the picture in question what you call the "big chuck" is in fact the top of my divider, not a chuck but just a circular mounting table surface!Wink
The conical shaped attachment with the "rotating wheel" is an adapter to hold the same collets (what you call "mini-chuck") that is also used to fabricate the gear's blank on the lathe.

The ability to use the same collets as on the lathe is a big advantage as it allows to mount different diameter blanks and still have them properly centered .

With very small gears, centering is *very* critical. (< 0.02mm if you want smooth and noiseless meshing) )
Thus you have to index/ center the whole set up very carefully.
It can take up to an hour to set up and square the milling machine and attachments..and it takes usually just only10 minutes to cut the gear itself


It is not easy to find metric gear cutters in the US...(I know from personal experience...)
Back in 2003 (an still living in California) I had to buy my set in Europe.

A single wheel will *not* cut it! (Pun intended!!)
depending on the number of teeth, the profile is different for each wheel!
Using a *set * of cutters as I do is already an approximation...but an acceptable one *if* you don't introduce too many additional centering and dimensional errors.

BTW, a basic investment for any machinist should be the latest edition of Machinery's Handbook by Industrial press.

Which brand of lathe/milling machine have you purchased?

If needed you can PM me for additional details

Cheers



Jacques Vuye aka Dr.Eisenbahn
Once a vandal, learned to be better and had great success!
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Offline utkan  
#76 Posted : 28 August 2013 11:10:39(UTC)
utkan

Turkey   
Joined: 14/07/2009(UTC)
Posts: 19,116
Location: Istanbul,
Originally Posted by: abisel Go to Quoted Post
FINISHED


UserPostedImage



What else can be more gorgeous than this....?Drool Drool Drool Love
Do unto others, as you would have them do unto you...
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Offline Iamnotthecrazyone  
#77 Posted : 28 August 2013 13:12:15(UTC)
Iamnotthecrazyone

Australia   
Joined: 22/01/2012(UTC)
Posts: 1,041
Hello Jacques,

It took a while to decide but I gave up on the idea of the mini machines because they are great for models but they would limit many of my bigger projects. I ended up buying a lathe with 600mm between centres and medium biggish mill. The brand is Titan, they are not perfect but they are reasonable enough for most things I'll do. I bought collets and I already ordered two more holders to use them on the lathe too. I need to buy a lot more tooling an accessories.

From all the immediate projects I have only some are Marklin. I don't really have to produce any gears yet but it is one of the things I want to be ready for when needed. The only set of mod 0.4 cutters on ebay are from China, I wonder about the quality. I am in Australia, I don't see them around here either and generally they have higher module numbers.

These are the machines, the mill is slightly different but just about the same as this model. I am glad you've got me all fired up with your post because in the past I wasted so much time by not having the right tools.

http://www.machines4u.co...he-Variable-Speed-/8048/

http://www.machines4u.co...0V-MILLING-MACHINE/9728/

Once I get the cutters if I get stuck I'll take on your offer and I'll PM you. It'll probably take a while before I get them since I need either the rotary table or dividing head too and I've been over stretching my wallet too much lately. I have learned the hard way on my first test that you have to spend lots of time setting the piece on the mill to get good results, luckily I was just playing with some metal I had, I am sure I have plenty to learn.

Thank you!,
Alex
Alex
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Offline jvuye  
#78 Posted : 28 August 2013 13:42:12(UTC)
jvuye

Belgium   
Joined: 01/03/2008(UTC)
Posts: 2,830
Location: South Western France
Nice machines!
Your headstock probably has an M1 or M2 Morse cone and the tailstock an M1
For these it is easy to find tool adapters and tool holder blanks that you'll end up machining to suit your need and the mill cutting tools you'll buy.
Lucky would be that the headstock of both machines are the same: you'll be able to machine tool holders on the lathe for lather use on the milling machine.

The key when you start is to surround yourself with litterature and above all approach everything with a lot of forethoughts and continuously look for (new) information.

If, on a day of machining, you haven't learned at least two new things, you have probably not tried hard enough!
(That's what my teacher told me when I was 18 RollEyes ...and I can guarantee it is true, now that I'm 70! LOL )

Cheers

Edited by user 28 August 2013 17:59:15(UTC)  | Reason: Not specified

Jacques Vuye aka Dr.Eisenbahn
Once a vandal, learned to be better and had great success!
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Offline Iamnotthecrazyone  
#79 Posted : 29 August 2013 00:20:32(UTC)
Iamnotthecrazyone

Australia   
Joined: 22/01/2012(UTC)
Posts: 1,041
Originally Posted by: jvuye Go to Quoted Post
Nice machines!
Your headstock probably has an M1 or M2 Morse cone and the tailstock an M1
For these it is easy to find tool adapters and tool holder blanks that you'll end up machining to suit your need and the mill cutting tools you'll buy.
Lucky would be that the headstock of both machines are the same: you'll be able to machine tool holders on the lathe for lather use on the milling machine.

The key when you start is to surround yourself with litterature and above all approach everything with a lot of forethoughts and continuously look for (new) information.

If, on a day of machining, you haven't learned at least two new things, you have probably not tried hard enough!
(That's what my teacher told me when I was 18 RollEyes ...and I can guarantee it is true, now that I'm 70! LOL )

Cheers


I will buy later the book you've mentioned, I have certainly been learning lots every time I went near the machines. Certainly not such luck with all the fittings being the same but I've bought the collect holders to use the same collects (R25) everywhere. The mill is R8, the tail stock on the lathe is M2 and the head stock is M4. I did cheat on the last one and bought a straight shaft collet holder which I am planning to put directly into the three jaws chuck otherwise seems too much hassle. I've only ordered them this week so they won't turn up here for a while. I am finding videos on you tube very helpful to learn skills for machining and metal casting which are some of the things keeping me occupied and away from trouble.

Thanks!
Offline Yumgui  
#80 Posted : 29 August 2013 00:43:00(UTC)
Yumgui

United States   
Joined: 20/03/2011(UTC)
Posts: 1,659
Location: Paris, France
Originally Posted by: Iamnotthecrazyone Go to Quoted Post
Hi as I have mentioned in another post you have no idea what you've started at this endLOL

Yep, having followed this great thread from the beginning it has certainly started "things" here also ... !

Very informative on tools and techniques, all I need now is to decide ... ^^ ;)

Big thanks to abisel, jacques and all,

Y ThumpUp
If your M track is rusted ... DON'T throw it out !
Working on : http://www.arep.fr/en/#/welcome
Inspired by : http://www.nakedmarklin.com/ ... I am not alone in this universe, phew.
Offline abisel  
#81 Posted : 29 August 2013 02:36:12(UTC)
abisel

United States   
Joined: 07/12/2012(UTC)
Posts: 139
Location: St. Charles, Missouri
It is refreshing to see this old post revived with further discussion on tools and such.

I haven't done much with my trains since but do have a second 3048 that I am restoring except this time it will be digital. That should be interesting. Same process and repairs except I will use oven-baked firearm refinishing paint instead of the air dried version. Should be more durable. http://www.cerakoteguncoatings.com/ Colors would be the Armor Black, Smith and Wesson Red and a low gloss clear.

Again, thanks to everyone for their help.
Offline jvuye  
#82 Posted : 29 August 2013 06:25:12(UTC)
jvuye

Belgium   
Joined: 01/03/2008(UTC)
Posts: 2,830
Location: South Western France
Originally Posted by: Iamnotthecrazyone Go to Quoted Post


I will buy later the book you've mentioned, I have certainly been learning lots every time I went near the machines. Certainly not such luck with all the fittings being the same but I've bought the collect holders to use the same collects (R25) everywhere. The mill is R8, the tail stock on the lathe is M2 and the head stock is M4. I did cheat on the last one and bought a straight shaft collet holder which I am planning to put directly into the three jaws chuck otherwise seems too much hassle. I've only ordered them this week so they won't turn up here for a while. I am finding videos on you tube very helpful to learn skills for machining and metal casting which are some of the things keeping me occupied and away from trouble.

Thanks!


Well....mounting a straight shaft collet holder in a chuck, basically defeats the purpose of using collets!!Crying
The use of collets is to obtain a better centering of the (mostly smaller diameter) parts on the headstock, and also if you have to re-attach several times!
Even the best chucks have a little eccentricity (even if only 0.01 mm, it gives you at least 0.02 off center of the part. and multiply that by the number of inserts you may end up with 0.1 mm error real quick...and your finished piece will be very "wobbly"Blink OhMyGod
There are converters between Morse standards and others fittings, and I'd rather get one of these.
A small investment that will find it's dividend in diminished frustration...and increased precision.Wink

Cheers
Jacques Vuye aka Dr.Eisenbahn
Once a vandal, learned to be better and had great success!
Offline Iamnotthecrazyone  
#83 Posted : 31 August 2013 10:43:03(UTC)
Iamnotthecrazyone

Australia   
Joined: 22/01/2012(UTC)
Posts: 1,041
Originally Posted by: jvuye Go to Quoted Post


Well....mounting a straight shaft collet holder in a chuck, basically defeats the purpose of using collets!!Crying


Somehow I was expecting that kind of commentLOL I thought I could get away with it at least for least important jobs. If it serves as an attenuating factor I ordered one with an extra thick shaft 1" because I was considering it was not the most precise solution. I will still use it for visual models to avoid denting or scratching pieces with the big chuck which is too much hassle to pull and then set it up again. However I will order a proper m4-r25 holder to do things right. Your advice was much appreciated.

thanks, alex

Offline steventrain  
#84 Posted : 31 August 2013 11:36:40(UTC)
steventrain

United Kingdom   
Joined: 21/10/2004(UTC)
Posts: 32,846
Great Job, Abisel.ThumpUp
Large Marklinist 3- Rails Layout with CS2/MS2/Boosters/C-track/favorites Electric class E03/BR103, E18/E118, E94, Crocodiles/Steam BR01, BR03, BR05, BR23, BR44, BR50, Big Boy.
Offline jvuye  
#85 Posted : 31 August 2013 13:38:57(UTC)
jvuye

Belgium   
Joined: 01/03/2008(UTC)
Posts: 2,830
Location: South Western France
Originally Posted by: Iamnotthecrazyone Go to Quoted Post
Originally Posted by: jvuye Go to Quoted Post


Well....mounting a straight shaft collet holder in a chuck, basically defeats the purpose of using collets!!Crying


Somehow I was expecting that kind of commentLOL I thought I could get away with it at least for least important jobs. If it serves as an attenuating factor I ordered one with an extra thick shaft 1" because I was considering it was not the most precise solution. I will still use it for visual models to avoid denting or scratching pieces with the big chuck which is too much hassle to pull and then set it up again. However I will order a proper m4-r25 holder to do things right. Your advice was much appreciated.

thanks, alex



Ok, great!
I am always *very* happy to see younger people take on this hobby also from the machining and restoration points of view.
Improving visual and functional characteristics is a big part of our enjoyment!
Cheers
Jacques Vuye aka Dr.Eisenbahn
Once a vandal, learned to be better and had great success!
Offline river6109  
#86 Posted : 29 May 2014 06:32:15(UTC)
river6109

Australia   
Joined: 22/01/2009(UTC)
Posts: 13,030
Location: On 1965 Märklin Boulevard just around from Roco Square
Abisel,

I thought I bring this amazing restoration back to live by adding a video from my converted )1 with an ESU sound decoder coupled together with a converted BR 23

these videos have been in the early part of discovering youtube so the quality isn't that crash hot but it is HD.

https://www.youtube.com/river6109
https://www.youtube.com/6109river
5 years in Destruction mode
50 years in Repairing mode
thanks 4 users liked this useful post by river6109
Offline MalinAC  
#87 Posted : 09 June 2014 19:57:37(UTC)
MalinAC

Ireland   
Joined: 29/05/2014(UTC)
Posts: 830
Location: DONEGAL, CARNDONAGH
Hi Jacques, I have to send the pictures in a new post. Eddie
MalinAC attached the following image(s):
001.JPG
002.JPG
003.JPG
007.JPG
008.JPG
009.JPG
010.JPG
011.JPG
Offline ealab  
#88 Posted : 13 December 2014 07:34:02(UTC)
ealab


Joined: 09/02/2014(UTC)
Posts: 17
Location: SOUTHERN FINLAND, PAIMIO
Hello!
Nicely renovated. 10 points! In a similar, in a way, I am almost restored the old scrap, Fleischmann Br24. However, the title above Br38, incorrectly! Pictures can be found in: www.veturitalli.net. Finland.

Best regards
ealab

Edited by user 27 December 2014 11:42:02(UTC)  | Reason: Not specified

Offline Moritz-BR365  
#89 Posted : 09 February 2015 14:47:30(UTC)
Moritz-BR365

Germany   
Joined: 02/04/2013(UTC)
Posts: 681
A perfect restauration! Great job.

There is only one point: I would have inserted a ball bearing into the gear box for the anchor axle! But that's all I have to mention.
thanks 1 user liked this useful post by Moritz-BR365
Offline anthonyb  
#90 Posted : 15 May 2015 06:51:22(UTC)
anthonyb


Joined: 23/02/2015(UTC)
Posts: 2
Location: ACT, Australia
Originally Posted by: abisel Go to Quoted Post
Glad to see this thread getting so much attention.

I have sourced a precision bearings/bushing manuafacture that can make new bronze alloy bushings in 2.5mm ID, 3.5mm OD and 12mm OAL at a cost of $7.50 each. I specified these dimensions because of the measured dimensions of the axle (2.48mm), the OD of the existing bearing (3.48mm) and the OAL of the existing bearing (11.05mm). So how many should I order and pass on to fellow MRR's? I am also asking for a quote for oil impregnated bronze alloy bushing of the same size. Are there any other sizes to consider?


Hi abisel,

Just recently back into the marklin scene. Read your email regarding the bronze bushings for the loco's.
Would you be able to give me the supplier details? i am in Australia and need some to fix some old loco's
and have not been able to find anything in Australia.

anthonyb, Australia
Offline abisel  
#91 Posted : 15 May 2015 23:12:49(UTC)
abisel

United States   
Joined: 07/12/2012(UTC)
Posts: 139
Location: St. Charles, Missouri
Originally Posted by: anthonyb Go to Quoted Post
Originally Posted by: abisel Go to Quoted Post
Glad to see this thread getting so much attention.

I have sourced a precision bearings/bushing manuafacture that can make new bronze alloy bushings in 2.5mm ID, 3.5mm OD and 12mm OAL at a cost of $7.50 each. I specified these dimensions because of the measured dimensions of the axle (2.48mm), the OD of the existing bearing (3.48mm) and the OAL of the existing bearing (11.05mm). So how many should I order and pass on to fellow MRR's? I am also asking for a quote for oil impregnated bronze alloy bushing of the same size. Are there any other sizes to consider?


Hi abisel,

Just recently back into the marklin scene. Read your email regarding the bronze bushings for the loco's.
Would you be able to give me the supplier details? i am in Australia and need some to fix some old loco's
and have not been able to find anything in Australia.

anthonyb, Australia


For those that wish to purchase special bronze bushings, I went to American Sleeve Bearings, provided them the dimensions and they provided me a quote for a minimum order of 20 bushings at $8.38 each.

Easiest way to contact them would be through their web site at: http://www.asbbearings.com/index.html

I looked up the invoice for when I had them make me the bushings and the item number they assigned was Z-16449 for SAE660 bronze bushings that measured 2.5mm x 3.5mm x 11.5mm. I don't know if that item number is still in their system, but you could ask.

Hope this helps.
Offline abisel  
#92 Posted : 30 November 2017 04:15:41(UTC)
abisel

United States   
Joined: 07/12/2012(UTC)
Posts: 139
Location: St. Charles, Missouri
Since Photobucket has changed their policy, I went through all my posts and updated the images as attachments and not links to Photobucket.
thanks 3 users liked this useful post by abisel
Offline Meabh  
#93 Posted : 18 December 2017 20:51:47(UTC)
Meabh

Ireland   
Joined: 18/12/2017(UTC)
Posts: 1
Location: Cork, Cork
Hi to you all.
New member who has been collecting Marklin over the last 20 years. Not big scale just at Christmas .
I have a suspended railway in the dining room .Works okay. I think its probably too dusty to leave there anymore as the rails seem to dust up too quick and the contacts flex a bit too much.
Anyway Had a aerial crash the other night and my Steam loco 4/6/2 3085 went flying .
It seems to have destroyed the friction fit of the front and back wheel set of the drive wheels and almost runs buckled until the wheels come off the axle on one side. The quartering does not hold either and the wheels jamb up.
I have sent and enquiry to Marklin in Germany to see if they can supply a wheel set for this vintage model.
I see some of the comments in this tread and I was wondering about gluing but the surface area is too small .
On another point does anyone know happened to "Maison Brand" run by a Mr Delfosse in Brussells city centre .I think this must have been the Willy Wonka of train shops from my experience back in the 1990's .

thanks
Offline river6109  
#94 Posted : 31 January 2018 12:20:21(UTC)
river6109

Australia   
Joined: 22/01/2009(UTC)
Posts: 13,030
Location: On 1965 Märklin Boulevard just around from Roco Square
Originally Posted by: abisel Go to Quoted Post
FINISHED

The chassis has the electrics installed.
The loco shell is painted and assembled.
And it runs fine.

DSC_0001.JPG

DSC_0007.JPG

DSC_0003.JPG


I haven't seen a loco in such pristine condition like this in my collection for years, congratulations

https://www.youtube.com/river6109
https://www.youtube.com/6109river
5 years in Destruction mode
50 years in Repairing mode
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