Good job, looks just like a new one and I can almost smell the paint.

Did you put the rods through the bearings to stop paint overspray?, don't forget to clean out the Armature bearing also, easier to do when the paint is still soft.

Looking good abisel

Well, trade secret? C'mon!
That guy must have felt very insecure to give you that type of BS!!
It is simple to understand the "why and how"!
It simply takes time, patience and precision. (No short cuts!)

You just need to know that there is significant shrinking on the zamac chassis after they have been pressure injected.(could be as much a 0.2 mm between holes, which is simply too much for proper meshing of gears)
Therefore the precision drilling of the bearing have to be performed *after* the part has cooled down.
It is done today on a CNC controlled drilling machine, but in the old days (and in small workshops like with yours truly..) It is done the old fashionned way : mounting on a milling-drilling machine, with proper indexing to have everyting lined up.
I cannot stress enough the absolute necessity for proper alignment of the chassis on all 3 axles.
IMHO it cannot be done without a good dial indicator.
It is also important to check/ calculate the spacing between all the gears (using mod 0.4 gears spacing formulas), referencing it at the axle of the last gear from the motor gear train (hence the one driving the first axle is the origin of all your x and y coordinates)...), then calculating the proper x and y coordinates ( one by one, and remember they are *not* all on the same line, so Pythagorus is again your best friend !!), writing these coordinates on a board, then starting to drill the bushings.
It is very important to first "mark" the start of each hole using a centering drill, then drill it to the final diameter (2.5 mm in this case) and eventually manually ream the hole until the axle fits and rotates smoothly. (This is how watchmakers used to do!)
I used to have a 2.55 mm drill bit...but had to ream it anyway, so why bother paying for a specialized hard-to-get drill?? (duh!!)
Hope this helps...but if you have more questions, don't hesitate!
Cheers

Steve, Jacques, for those of us who have not done anything more difficult than changing our loks light bulbs or brushes, you would need tools like these:
http://www.trainsahead.com/wheel_assembly.htm

Absolutely fantastic finishing !
Must be a beauty to see chugging around the layout.

Regards,
John

Fantastic! You should be very proud, you have every right.

I've been looking for a cherry 3021 with "Deutsche Bundesbahn" on the side. I have a 30210, but need another with a different road number. I have just about decided a repaint is going to be the only way to get what I want.

I can only say: *stunning*!
This looks as good as new...no..scrap that..*better* than new.
Congratulations.
Admiratively!

Perfect work and very nice presentation,congratulations.

Hi as I have mentioned in another post you have no idea what you've started at this end I have now a lathe an a milling machine. I still need the dividing head and a couple of things but I have a better understanding of things to ask you a few more questions. I've considered making my own cutting wheels but If I want to buy I should buy a module 0.4, right? Did you make your own cutting wheel holder or did you buy it? I may not be looking for the right thing but I didn't find many listings on ebay for that module size neither the arbor.

The mini chuck you are using in the photo which is attached to the big chuck has a rotating wheel. Why do you use that when you already have a rotary table?
Thank you Alex

Nice machines!
Your headstock probably has an M1 or M2 Morse cone and the tailstock an M1
For these it is easy to find tool adapters and tool holder blanks that you'll end up machining to suit your need and the mill cutting tools you'll buy.
Lucky would be that the headstock of both machines are the same: you'll be able to machine tool holders on the lathe for lather use on the milling machine.

The key when you start is to surround yourself with litterature and above all approach everything with a lot of forethoughts and continuously look for (new) information.

If, on a day of machining, you haven't learned at least two new things, you have probably not tried hard enough!
(That's what my teacher told me when I was 18 ...and I can guarantee it is true, now that I'm 70! )

Cheers

Edited by user 28 August 2013 17:59:15(UTC)  | Reason: Not specified

Yep, having followed this great thread from the beginning it has certainly started "things" here also ... !

Very informative on tools and techniques, all I need now is to decide ... ^^ ;)

Big thanks to abisel, jacques and all,

Y

Well....mounting a straight shaft collet holder in a chuck, basically defeats the purpose of using collets!!
The use of collets is to obtain a better centering of the (mostly smaller diameter) parts on the headstock, and also if you have to re-attach several times!
Even the best chucks have a little eccentricity (even if only 0.01 mm, it gives you at least 0.02 off center of the part. and multiply that by the number of inserts you may end up with 0.1 mm error real quick...and your finished piece will be very "wobbly"
There are converters between Morse standards and others fittings, and I'd rather get one of these.
A small investment that will find it's dividend in diminished frustration...and increased precision.

Cheers

Great Job, Abisel.

Abisel,

I thought I bring this amazing restoration back to live by adding a video from my converted )1 with an ESU sound decoder coupled together with a converted BR 23

these videos have been in the early part of discovering youtube so the quality isn't that crash hot but it is HD.

Hello!
Nicely renovated. 10 points! In a similar, in a way, I am almost restored the old scrap, Fleischmann Br24. However, the title above Br38, incorrectly! Pictures can be found in: www.veturitalli.net. Finland.

Best regards
ealab

Edited by user 27 December 2014 11:42:02(UTC)  | Reason: Not specified

Hi abisel,

Just recently back into the marklin scene. Read your email regarding the bronze bushings for the loco's.
Would you be able to give me the supplier details? i am in Australia and need some to fix some old loco's
and have not been able to find anything in Australia.

anthonyb, Australia

Since Photobucket has changed their policy, I went through all my posts and updated the images as attachments and not links to Photobucket.