Joined: 28/02/2012(UTC) Posts: 288 Location: New York
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Can someone help me design a rectangular 6feet long and 3.5 feet layout with a 7186 turntable.  Using a track planning software. Thanks, Daniel |
Newly Started Analog Z Layout
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Joined: 13/12/2011(UTC) Posts: 233 Location: Masterton, New Zealand
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I'll have a play around sometime to tonight. Any other requirements or wishes for it? 2 levels etc?
I will need to know what track system you're wanting to use. C / K / M
Daniell
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Joined: 28/02/2012(UTC) Posts: 288 Location: New York
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C track to solid rail turntable(7186) if possible. 1 level. Thanks, Daniel. |
Newly Started Analog Z Layout
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Joined: 28/02/2012(UTC) Posts: 288 Location: New York
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Sorry just measured  Make that 5 Feet long and 3.5 feet wide. Thanks, Daniel |
Newly Started Analog Z Layout
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Joined: 13/12/2011(UTC) Posts: 233 Location: Masterton, New Zealand
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Hi Daniel, I've modified a layout from Marklin's "Das Gleisplanbuch" that may have potential. I'm a metric guy and I cut it down to 105 x 160 cm or approximately 3.5' x 5.25'. I don't have the older turntable in my program so I've used the current one instead. I'm sure the size difference will be negligible in them. It may however be a case of modifying the adapter track to suit the solid rail. Let me know what you think... Daniell DigitalNZ attached the following image(s):
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 2 users liked this useful post by DigitalNZ
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Joined: 28/02/2012(UTC) Posts: 288 Location: New York
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Hi Daniel, That was beautiful thanks alot! Daniel |
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Joined: 25/06/2012(UTC) Posts: 117 Location: phoenix
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Hello, I have just rediscovered my m track 1964 trainset. I have started buying elertical turnouts and crossovers? and would like help in designing a layout. I am looking at roughly the size mentioned here and would like 2 end stops (not the right word but to park my rolling stock included.) Any pointers to a free programme or could somebody kindly design one for me. Ideally I would like to run 2 trains at the same time but have no idea how to hook up 2 transformers or put spaces in the track to achieve this. any suggestions most welcome[ many thxs Chris
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Joined: 16/05/2011(UTC) Posts: 1,489 Location: Lyon, France
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Joined: 25/06/2012(UTC) Posts: 117 Location: phoenix
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Originally Posted by: DigitalNZ  Hi Daniel,
I've modified a layout from Marklin's "Das Gleisplanbuch" that may have potential. I'm a metric guy and I cut it down to 105 x 160 cm or approximately 3.5' x 5.25'.
I don't have the older turntable in my program so I've used the current one instead. I'm sure the size difference will be negligible in them. It may however be a case of modifying the adapter track to suit the solid rail.
Let me know what you think...
Daniell Hi Daniell, Having trouble with designing my M track layout. Done it by eye as per photo, but doesn't quite fit! Can supply the order of track I have used. Any help would be most welcome. Think the radiant is too steep downwards. In process waiting to get more pillars! Any help most welcome. Thxs Chris  Have been trying to use SCARM Edited by user 22 March 2016 17:31:09(UTC)
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 1 user liked this useful post by joyofmarklin
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Joined: 21/09/2012(UTC) Posts: 1,730 Location: Toronto
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Originally Posted by: joyofmarklin  Ideally I would like to run 2 trains at the same time but have no idea how to hook up 2 transformers or put spaces in the track to achieve this. HI: - You do NOT need two transformers to run two trains at the same time. - Assuming you are using a digital system, one controller will run both trains. ---------- You do need to be on the look out that the train behind does not hit the one in the front ---------- The way you do that is by having the faster train in the front and making sure you leave a safe distance ---------- The smaller the space the bit more tricky this becomes, however - but completely doable - If you are using an analogue system (but also using a digital system), you can have one oval inside the other connected by four turn outs and each train is completely independent of the other - For any layout, but especially a small one (about the same size as mine) having one part of the track go UP, even if parallel, adds a tremendous amount of fun to the play; I know because I just did it (again) - using Marklin pieces to do this may be VERY expensive however (about CAD $ 450. with taxes). - I don't understand what the attraction of a turntable is - seriously - can someone explain it to me? I love to have complete trains parked and then see them go at my pleasure without having to put a train together every time; but just choosing a loco does not seem to help. I love this topic because I always look for ideas for my small layout.  |
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Joined: 21/09/2012(UTC) Posts: 1,730 Location: Toronto
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Originally Posted by: baggio  - If you are using an analogue system (but also using a digital system), you can have one oval inside the other connected by four turn outs and each train is completely independent of the other CORRECTION: In analogue, they are independent of each other in the sense that one train will never hit the other, but once you give current, BOTH trains will run at the same time. You can put a little switch that would allow you to run one or the other or both, but even then, you cannot give one train less current than the other. That you can ONLY do in digital. Sorry for the mix up. |
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Joined: 29/01/2009(UTC) Posts: 301 Location: Sheffield,
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You can of course run more than one locomotive in analogue, and you CAN run them at different speeds on DIFFERENT SECTIONS of track. Only with digital can you run multiple locos on the same section of track at independent speeds.
Most obvious example is a loop of parallel tracks. With one controller connected to the outer track and another connected to the inner track. All you need to do is put a fold of paper or piece of electrical tape over the middle rail contact tongue at the turnouts between inner and outer sections such that they have isolated middle rails.
I shall be building my layout with both analogue and digital with a multipole switch to completely disconnect the analogue transformers and connect the digital control box. I'll be using 3 analogue transformers, outer mainline track, inner mainline track and the third one for the maintenance area.
:-)
With the size of the layout plan above, it's probably OTT to use more than one analogue transformer, but you can still divide up the track and use block switches to have trains parked etc. |
Must build something |
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Joined: 21/09/2012(UTC) Posts: 1,730 Location: Toronto
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Here are a few pictures of my small layout. I use both Marklin digital and 2 rail DC (analogue) as well as Marklin analogue. The innermost oval is dual, two rail and Marklin. I found that in dealing with small spaces, one must use the same space in two ways. In fact, my filing cabinets support the train parking area. This way, I can still use the filing cabinets for work, while the top is for play purposes.     |
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 3 users liked this useful post by baggio
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Joined: 29/01/2009(UTC) Posts: 301 Location: Sheffield,
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How about this?  I did have to increase the board size to a whopping 162x108cm, but it packs a lot of track into a compact space. |
Must build something |
 6 users liked this useful post by scraigen
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Joined: 25/06/2012(UTC) Posts: 117 Location: phoenix
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  Hi, struggling with SCARM to fine tune my layout! As you can see from the photo I have made it fit? However I need to get it right, to stop the derailing! No idea where I got the curve 5120 from. The short 5107 are automatic stop/ start switches. Also thing the gradient is too steep, just ok for a small locomotive , but not for the larger ones. Can anybody please fine tune this track for me so I know what extra track I need to find please? Any assistance greatly appreciated. Chris Edited by user 22 March 2016 21:55:09(UTC)
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Joined: 21/09/2012(UTC) Posts: 1,730 Location: Toronto
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JoyofMarklin, my 2 cents' worth: 1. I have had my treasured FS424 fall off the (then) Marklin elevated track a bit like yours at slow speed for no apparent reason. So you may want NOT to leave the upper level unprotected. It may be expensive to protect it, however. Marklin has bridges with protective railings, but going around the curved portion and a bit of straight run may cost you CAD $450.00. However, if you are good with your hands, you could make a wooden support that would look very nice, protect the trains and cost much less. Do NOT saw anything on your own if you are not used to doing this; you could lose a finger or two. 1.1 My present 2 rail elevated part is is more steady than my previous one (I was using plastic Lego-like pillars...) but is still subject to derailment and ONCE my Ice Train head loco did derail. It was my fault; the train was going much too fast!  Surprisingly, it happened going UP the ramp and not DOWN the rump. Go figure. 2. If you use the popular green carpet, the layout will look MUCH better. It is not too expensive. 3. Any reason you are still using M tracks? C track is better. 4. You have space to do a better layout and WITHOUT computer assistance. Just layout the track and see what happens. That is what I do. I leave fancy computer planning to those who have a lot more space to play with. 5. If you have a bit of space, you may want to put a protected bridge between your present table and another table, maybe just for a parking siding. That is what I am planning on doing. I saw one on a YouTube video and I liked it. Let us know your progress.  |
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Joined: 25/06/2012(UTC) Posts: 117 Location: phoenix
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Originally Posted by: baggio  JoyofMarklin, my 2 cents' worth: 1. I have had my treasured FS424 fall off the (then) Marklin elevated track a bit like yours at slow speed for no apparent reason. So you may want NOT to leave the upper level unprotected. It may be expensive to protect it, however. Marklin has bridges with protective railings, but going around the curved portion and a bit of straight run may cost you CAD $450.00. However, if you are good with your hands, you could make a wooden support that would look very nice, protect the trains and cost much less. Do NOT saw anything on your own if you are not used to doing this; you could lose a finger or two. 1.1 My present 2 rail elevated part is is more steady than my previous one (I was using plastic Lego-like pillars...) but is still subject to derailment and ONCE my Ice Train head loco did derail. It was my fault; the train was going much too fast!  Surprisingly, it happened going UP the ramp and not DOWN the rump. Go figure. 2. If you use the popular green carpet, the layout will look MUCH better. It is not too expensive. 3. Any reason you are still using M tracks? C track is better. 4. You have space to do a better layout and WITHOUT computer assistance. Just layout the track and see what happens. That is what I do. I leave fancy computer planning to those who have a lot more space to play with. 5. If you have a bit of space, you may want to put a protected bridge between your present table and another table, maybe just for a parking siding. That is what I am planning on doing. I saw one on a YouTube video and I liked it. Let us know your progress.  Thanks for your input. Have just rediscovered M track, but with electric turnouts and signals, so enjoying my second childhood, (drinking brandy through a straw!) Have just purchased some more pillars which help a lot but take on board to protect my precious locomotives and infact all the rolling stock. Need to get my layout right then will apply it to plywood covered by green carpet so I can hide under the many wires. Evidentially will move to digital and perhaps C track, but enjoying this stage for the moment and much cheaper than replacing the track! Don't know why when I upload the SCARM picture it reverts to the photo of my layout? So here is another try as would like a blueprint of my eventual layout! Chris 
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Joined: 16/05/2012(UTC) Posts: 108 Location: thessaloniki
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Dear friend or friends, good afternoon from thessaloniki, hellas
The old turntables 7186 are used normally with M track. They can also be connected with C track as follows : 7186, 24951, 24188, 24171 etc. They also can be connected with K tracks as follows : 7186, 2291, 2290, 2200 etc The new turntables 7286/7686 are connected with C tracks as follows : 7286, 7287, 2201, 24922, 24188, 24171 etc These also can be connected with M track as follows : 7286, 7287, 2291, 5106, 5107 etc.
The transfer tables 7294 and 72941 are both for use with M tracks. The alternative use can be done as follows : 7294, 2291, 2200, 2201, 2232 etc or 7294, 24951, 24171, 24188, 24229 etc.
my best greetings, christos stratopoulos, christos563.
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Joined: 28/02/2012(UTC) Posts: 288 Location: New York
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Originally Posted by: joyofmarklin  Originally Posted by: DigitalNZ  Hi Daniel,
I've modified a layout from Marklin's "Das Gleisplanbuch" that may have potential. I'm a metric guy and I cut it down to 105 x 160 cm or approximately 3.5' x 5.25'.
I don't have the older turntable in my program so I've used the current one instead. I'm sure the size difference will be negligible in them. It may however be a case of modifying the adapter track to suit the solid rail.
Let me know what you think...
Daniell Hi Daniell, Having trouble with designing my M track layout. Done it by eye as per photo, but doesn't quite fit! Can supply the order of track I have used. Any help would be most welcome. Think the radiant is too steep downwards. In process waiting to get more pillars! Any help most welcome. Thxs Chris  Have been trying to use SCARM Thank You so much!! It is incredible to see the enthusiasm of our members in always helping! |
Newly Started Analog Z Layout
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Joined: 28/02/2012(UTC) Posts: 288 Location: New York
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I think it would be awesome if this thread could be a center for layout design help! I'm going to try and construct all of these layout with the left over C-Track I have from my main layout. I can't wait! |
Newly Started Analog Z Layout
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