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Offline MarioFabro  
#1 Posted : 16 August 2007 21:21:28(UTC)
MarioFabro

United States   
Joined: 16/10/2001(UTC)
Posts: 793
Location: Pittsburgh,
From this other topic about the ETE East show, you may know that I recently purchased a 3125 Roter Pfeil. In that thread there are also some pics of the loco and a shot inside it.
https://www.marklin-users.net/fo...ault.aspx?g=posts&t=7750

I would like to upgrade this loco with a ESU mfx decoder and changing the motor to faulhaber or maxon. Here is a shot of the motor as it is now

UserPostedImage

SB Modellbau offers a kit for 90.- Euros, which I assume includes motor, flywheel and connection to the other side to the spindle that then drives the crankshaft.
http://www.sb-modellbau.com/pro...ucts_id=488&cPath=27

By further research, I could buy ONLY the motor: if it's a Faulhaber is priced at 48.- Euros.
http://www.sb-modellbau.com/pro...ucts_id=992&cPath=67

Or I could buy the same from Maxon for 46.20 Euros
http://www.sb-modellbau.com/pro...ucts_id=985&cPath=67

My questions:
1. is it correct to assume that, in the first case, I only get the motor and the flywheel and connection at the other end or are there other items included in the complete upgrade
2. does the price difference justify buying only the motor
3. If I buy only the motor, is it relatively easy to un-plug the flywheel and the connection from the existing motot and re-use them on the new one.

I think once I do that, the installation of the decoder is straightforward. Any recommendations are welcome!

Thanks
UserPostedImageUserPostedImageUserPostedImageEra IV-VI --- "If you have brains you love trains" or "When I grow up, I will play with trains"
Offline rschaffr  
#2 Posted : 16 August 2007 22:08:08(UTC)
rschaffr

United States   
Joined: 03/01/2003(UTC)
Posts: 5,181
Location: Southern New Jersey, USA
Mario: You might want to check out this old thread: https://www.marklin-user...;SearchTerms=roter,pfeil
-Ron
Digital, Epoch IV-V(K-track/CS3/6021Connect/60216051), Epoch III(C-track/6021/6036/6051)
http://www.sem-co.com/~rschaffr/trains/trains.html
Offline MarioFabro  
#3 Posted : 16 August 2007 22:28:34(UTC)
MarioFabro

United States   
Joined: 16/10/2001(UTC)
Posts: 793
Location: Pittsburgh,
Quote:
[size=1" face="Verdana" id="quote]quote:Originally posted by rschaffr
<br />Mario: You might want to check out this old thread: https://www.marklin-user...;SearchTerms=roter,pfeil


Thanks Ron. That thread is useful but not quite my questions. However, they discuss "swiss light changing" and I am wondering in anyone did do that on the roter pfeil. At least mine, takes the top light from the same diffuser that does the internal lights and from a central lightbulb. As such, I assume (I did not run the loco yet) that that light is always on. In order to do a "full" swiss change system I will probably need a total of 6 LEDs plus the main light bulb for the car ilumination.
UserPostedImageUserPostedImageUserPostedImageEra IV-VI --- "If you have brains you love trains" or "When I grow up, I will play with trains"
Offline rschaffr  
#4 Posted : 16 August 2007 22:42:35(UTC)
rschaffr

United States   
Joined: 03/01/2003(UTC)
Posts: 5,181
Location: Southern New Jersey, USA
My Roter Pheil is still analog and is in my display case. Don't know if I will ever mess with it. It is one of the several old loks I have not converted that I set up a M-track carpetbahn occasionally and operate just for nostalgia.
-Ron
Digital, Epoch IV-V(K-track/CS3/6021Connect/60216051), Epoch III(C-track/6021/6036/6051)
http://www.sem-co.com/~rschaffr/trains/trains.html
Offline laalves  
#5 Posted : 17 August 2007 00:57:26(UTC)
laalves


Joined: 10/02/2004(UTC)
Posts: 2,162
Location: Portugal
From my experience with SB-Modellbau, they will supply you with everything you need to exchange the motor, but they won't tell you what it is until you've received it....

You'll get the motor with all the bits assembled to make it fit, including flywheel, transmission and most of the times a brass spacer for you to sit the motor on, since usually it needs some height adjustment for it to reach the original gears.

Sometimes loose items like a earthing lug and corresponding screw also come in, when the milling work you need to do involves removing the previous earthing arrangement of the model.

Luis
Offline foumaro  
#6 Posted : 20 August 2007 15:56:08(UTC)
foumaro

Greece   
Joined: 08/12/2004(UTC)
Posts: 4,430
Location: Attiki Athens Greece
Same for my 3126.No change for old masterpieces.biggrin
Quote:
[size=1" face="Verdana" id="quote]quote:Originally posted by rschaffr
<br />My Roter Pheil is still analog and is in my display case. Don't know if I will ever mess with it. It is one of the several old loks I have not converted that I set up a M-track carpetbahn occasionally and operate just for nostalgia.
Offline intruder  
#7 Posted : 18 December 2007 19:29:47(UTC)
intruder

Norway   
Joined: 16/08/2006(UTC)
Posts: 5,382
Location: Akershus, Norway
Mario, did you ever get anywhere with your Roter Pfeil?

I bought one today, a 3605, from my MMR dealer. It was produced in 1987 and looks practically unused, in it's original gray box.
It has only a small circuit board in the pantograph end and a 6081 decoder. All the lights are connected to the same output, no directional change.
Hard to start, as it probably hasn't ran for many years, but now it runs perfect, controlled by a MS.

I want to convert to mfx with Swiss light change and separate interior light.
Did it ever run with rear red light?

Added later: what is the difference between the originally installed motor and a Faulhaber or Maxon motor?
Best regards Svein, Norway
grumpy old sod
Offline laalves  
#8 Posted : 19 December 2007 02:23:05(UTC)
laalves


Joined: 10/02/2004(UTC)
Posts: 2,162
Location: Portugal
Quote:
[size=1" face="Verdana" id="quote]quote:Originally posted by intruder
<br />Added later: what is the difference between the originally installed motor and a Faulhaber or Maxon motor?


From my experience with other SB kits: more power (not a concern here), usually much less noise and much smoother running. However, this type of can motors as supplied in the original Roter Pfeil, ugly, primitive as they may look, are sometimes very good.

As a general opinion, SB motor kits are much better in the above three respects than a M 5-star motor, added by lower current consumption, which is always a good thing.

For instance, my 34880 has ghostly running characteristics: at low to medium speeds, you simply won't hear it, period. As to smoothness, their nicely dimensioned flywheels will do you wonders since even despite I have installed a Lopiv3.0 and controlling it with a CS or MS the speed steps are not noticeable at all. It is excellent.

My 34883 and starterset BR41 are also being converted.
Offline intruder  
#9 Posted : 19 December 2007 20:23:14(UTC)
intruder

Norway   
Joined: 16/08/2006(UTC)
Posts: 5,382
Location: Akershus, Norway
Thanks for the information, Luís.
Best regards Svein, Norway
grumpy old sod
Offline efel  
#10 Posted : 20 December 2007 23:39:15(UTC)
efel

France   
Joined: 23/02/2005(UTC)
Posts: 800
Hi Mario,
Have you finally upgraded your roter pfeil with a SB modellbau kit?
I'm interested to the result, for my 3126 has a ridiculously weak motor, and I have to change it one day or another...
Fred
Offline intruder  
#11 Posted : 02 January 2008 02:21:13(UTC)
intruder

Norway   
Joined: 16/08/2006(UTC)
Posts: 5,382
Location: Akershus, Norway
I have converted my Rote Pfeil 3605 to mxf using a Märklin decoder form a conversion set.

As mentioned many times before, I have no layout. I did not test run the 3605 on a real track before disassembeling it, only on my short and straight test track.

After installation of the mfx decoder, the motor runs perfect, but I have a small problem. When driving it on my temporary table layout, it makes a ratteling noise in curves. C-track, R = 360 mm. The noise seems to come from the propeller shaft (white plastic shaft) connecting the bogie to the motor.

When the bogie is pushing (rear end, smallest distance between bogie and motor), the noise is worse than if the bogie is pulling (front end, biggest distance between bogie and motor)

When driving at full speed (adjusted to 110/255 or 43% = 125 km/h) the noise is almost gone.

Have anybody excperienced this phenomena?

UserPostedImage
Best regards Svein, Norway
grumpy old sod
Offline laalves  
#12 Posted : 02 January 2008 02:34:15(UTC)
laalves


Joined: 10/02/2004(UTC)
Posts: 2,162
Location: Portugal
Hi,

Try some Trix grease in the cardans.

Happy New Year!

Offline intruder  
#13 Posted : 02 January 2008 02:59:11(UTC)
intruder

Norway   
Joined: 16/08/2006(UTC)
Posts: 5,382
Location: Akershus, Norway
Thanks, Luís

Maybe I should take it appart, clean and grease it. The locomotive has obviously been stationary for a very long time.

I hope my MMR dealer has the Trix grease.
Best regards Svein, Norway
grumpy old sod
Offline WelshMatt  
#14 Posted : 02 January 2008 18:49:14(UTC)
WelshMatt


Joined: 06/10/2006(UTC)
Posts: 1,345
Location: ,
Any plastic-safe grease will do - I've used Tamiya R/C grease before now.
Matt from Wales.

When you pay Range Rover prices, don't accept Lada quality
Offline dntower85  
#15 Posted : 02 January 2008 19:10:01(UTC)
dntower85

United States   
Joined: 08/01/2006(UTC)
Posts: 2,218
Location: Shady Shores, TX - USA
I have just completed a marklin conversion on a Jouef AVE bullet train and it has nearly the same engine and gear box layout. It sounds like a coffee grinder. Not the best gear box design, but on mine some of the noise was coming from the motor not being held tight in the mount. Grease didn't make any difference. Well i only paid $25 for it so for the price I can stand the noise.
DT
Now powered by ECoS II unit#2, RocRail
era - some time in the future when the space time continuum is disrupted and ICE 3 Trains run on the same rails as the Adler and BR18's.
Offline intruder  
#16 Posted : 02 January 2008 19:11:47(UTC)
intruder

Norway   
Joined: 16/08/2006(UTC)
Posts: 5,382
Location: Akershus, Norway
But cleaning and grease did not help.

It seems like the distance between the two pivoting points gets too small when the propeller shaft is moved sideways by the bogie. The noise comes from the rotor in the motor, moving rapidly (twice per rotations) in the axial direction.

The magnetic field in the motor holds the rotor in a center position. When the bogie is not in a straight line, the rotor is pushed forwards out of it's position by the shaft, back by the magnet, forwards, back etc. etc. twice per revolution.

Either the joint on the motor is not pushed long enough onto the rotor shaft, or the propeller shaft is too long (not very likely). I will have to remove the motor to check.
It would also be better if the two propeller shaft ends were twisted 90 degrees compared to each other.
Best regards Svein, Norway
grumpy old sod
Offline intruder  
#17 Posted : 20 May 2008 15:12:41(UTC)
intruder

Norway   
Joined: 16/08/2006(UTC)
Posts: 5,382
Location: Akershus, Norway
I see that this topic has been brought up again

Twisting the propeller shaft 90 degrees did help a little bit, but it is still not good enough. The propeller shaft has no axial play, so I have to shorten it.
But first I have to order (and receive) a new one, as a replacement part if everything else fails.

Edit: Added at 16:28:
I did not have the time to wait for a new shaft. I have shortened it approx 1,5 mm. The vibration is close to gone. I am happy.
I just cut out a piece in the middle of the shaft and put both ends into a shrinking tube. First I carefully heated the tube over the soldering iron, to get it centered, then finally I shrinked it with a flame from a lighter.

Otherwise, with the mfx decoder, the maximum speed of 125 km/h is easy to adjust. As far as I know, the 3605 has the same drive train as the 3125.
Best regards Svein, Norway
grumpy old sod
Offline MarioFabro  
#18 Posted : 20 May 2008 20:42:19(UTC)
MarioFabro

United States   
Joined: 16/10/2001(UTC)
Posts: 793
Location: Pittsburgh,
I have not yet converted my roter pfeil, will order the SB model kit soon but it will probably be a winter project.

I read the comments on this thread at it seems as a real advantage to have a Faulhaber or Maxon motors.

Still undecided if I should go for just the motor or the whole kit from SB. The difference in price is about 40 Euros and (afaik) only includes the additional flywheel.
UserPostedImageUserPostedImageUserPostedImageEra IV-VI --- "If you have brains you love trains" or "When I grow up, I will play with trains"
Offline intruder  
#19 Posted : 07 September 2008 03:17:21(UTC)
intruder

Norway   
Joined: 16/08/2006(UTC)
Posts: 5,382
Location: Akershus, Norway
One very good thing with our great hobby is that we (normally) are in absolutely no hurry.

I have finished upgrading my 3605 with a Märklin mfx decoder.
Maybe too much to go into here, but I have made a report on my web site. Please look into http://www.saebonet.com/svein/Tog/sites/ch/3605.htm
Best regards Svein, Norway
grumpy old sod
Offline mmervine  
#20 Posted : 07 September 2008 03:26:08(UTC)
mmervine

United States   
Joined: 30/01/2006(UTC)
Posts: 1,893
Location: Keene, NH
Svein:

Really a nice job! Great documentation of the project.

r/mark
Märklin C-track, Marklin Digital & ECoS, multi-era French & Swiss
http://www.ete-ene.org/m...mervines-layout-gallery/
Offline foumaro  
#21 Posted : 07 September 2008 08:23:13(UTC)
foumaro

Greece   
Joined: 08/12/2004(UTC)
Posts: 4,430
Location: Attiki Athens Greece
Great work and very nice presentation Svein.biggrin
Offline huttel  
#22 Posted : 07 September 2008 19:16:00(UTC)
huttel

Denmark   
Joined: 11/01/2006(UTC)
Posts: 274
Location: Copenhagen, Denmark
Impressive. Very good description Smile Will definetly have to put the "Roter pfeil" on my wishlist.

//Thomas
Carpe Diem!
Märklin HO | Insider | C-Track | Digital | Primarilly DK & D | Era III+IV | PC Control with CS2 (60215), Intellibox & Win-Digipet | http://huttel.dk/marklin
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