Well I've been here only a short time but the questions just keep coming. As I gain experience, I hope I can answer some others questions. I look forward to posting photos as I take up the hobby after a too long lay off.
Now to the question: Marklin wiring is very small gauge, below 22 gauge that I have run into in auto repair, how are others hadling wiring as far as neatness and keeping track of what operates what. I plan on using junction blocks wherever possible for lights and grounds. The table I'm worling with is particle board 3/4" thick and it doesn't take to nails or screws in and out many times. Anyone willing to share some tips and photos are always nice to see, Cheers, Thanks for the warm reception, Steve

Marklin sold staples to fasten wires, however it worked only for about 3 wires. I suggest you visit a electrical supply house and see what they have to offer as they deal with communication wire and they have some unique ways to organize and fasten them. I had the best intentions when I wired my layout but alas it turned into a rats nest (the plans of mice and men). The larger the layout the bigger the issue it becomes, in my experience, I wound up with 3 control boards, 9 circuits, almost 60 turnouts besides uncouplers ect. At least my control boards came out decent and no one looks under the table. Fred

From one Steve to another....

I relate to this. If it's untidy, you know it's untidy whether you can normally see it or not.

There is a lot to be said for following the example Märklin set out with their own factory-layouts (see image example below)

I think most of us here would agree with a few basic guidelines to adhere to;

1: Use a consistent colour-code, and if possible, follow Märklin's own colours. For one thing, it looks great, but more importantly it makes troubleshooting a LOT easier.

2: Nice straight lines, evenly secured, allow spacing for adding additional circuits later.

3: Include some easy ways to test the circuits from underneath. You'll see that in the factory layouts, much use is made of the coloured plugs & sockets. These are great for trouble-shooting, but unfortunately can themselves become the source of the trouble if they work loose, become oxidised etc. On my own factory layout, it was almost completely non-operational after several years of storage. Around 90% of the electrical problems were solely due to bad plug connections and easily fixed. But there are many who do not like these connectors at all preferring to solder all the way - that is fine, but it will still help to be able to tap into the various circuits to confirm what you think is happening is actually working.

Although the image shows a base-board type of construction, if yours is a frame-type, you can still run nice straight lines and groups of cables by following supporting beams etc.

4: LABEL the wires. Even with colour coding it's still easy to become overwhelmed by a sea of wiring. Small white labels or tape wrapped around the wires and coded in some way so that at any point you can easily pick a single wire, and quickly identify both what it is connected to and it's purpose. Giving all your accessories, turnouts, signals etc a number will help with this. Yes, it will increase your wiring time to do this, but will considerably cut the time you may spend several months/years on looking for an elusive fault when the memory of just how you wired it and what goes where has long faded.

5: Avoid the tempation to add loose 'runners' as a temporary fix or addition - ok for short-term troubleshooting but if to be permanent secure the additional wires neatly and label.

Marklin's primary wiring colours are...

a: Brown - 'ground' or 'Masse' - this has traditionally been the metal track-bed for M-track, otherwise the out rails for K & C-Track
b: Red - Center Rail
c: Yellow - lighting & accessories
d: Blue - accessory control (solenoids etc) generally with a Green, Red or Orange plug,

Blue wires are generally used Red or Green plugs for the 'straight' or 'branch' operating aspect. For larger layouts it may help you to get some insulation tape or heat-shrink in red & green and add these as 'tracers' to the blue leads for easy identification on longer runs.

You can of course deviate from the colour codes for clarity, a good example being where there is the Blue wire for the Green aspect of accessories. You may find it easier to run actual green wire instead of the blue, leaving the blue for only the Red aspect (running red for that function could be mistaken for the Track Stud Red.

Grey is often used for track feedback.

The following sequence of colours is already used in many environments, the Resistor colour code being the most obvious but also the pattern for the multi-stranded flat computer cable

Black - free
Brown - Track ground (outer rails)
Red - Track Ctr / Catenary feed ** and also Stop/Branch for accessories (connectors only)
Orange - Signal caution
Yellow - Accessories/Lighting
Green - Go/Straight
Blue - Accessories
Violet - free
Grey - free
White - free

As for the gauge of wire, the rolls of wire Märklin sells are usually around #22 AWG, you may find this older thread of interest in this regard...

https://www.marklin-user...e-gauges.aspx#post341072

Generally, the longer the run, the higher you want the gauge to be to avoid losses.

Hope this helps somewhat

Regards

Steve Cook (Cookee)

What I was trying to convey in my post is that we can not be perfect in every aspect in this hobby but certainly we can try, The more practice one does the better one becomes. Certainly I will be better at wiring at my next layout (maybe I will hire a electrician ). Some imperfections can be hidden until we get it better the next time. The layouts that I have seen on this and other forms does inspire me to be better. Best of luck to you!

Switched to cat-proof design after repeated feline attacks: All cables encased.

Smart.

I had a cantinary layout on my Z gauge but a feline came through and acted like Godzilla. She tore the cantinary to shreds.

My new layout has a hard lid that is velcro'd down so she can't get to the set.

When I started to wire up my layout, I used double-sided sticky tape to hold wires in place on a temporary basis; when I was satisfied with the location of the wires I used the techniques mentioned above as well as hot glue to hold things in place. It might be useful to draw up a full wiring diagram at the design stage (really helps when you are underneath the layout ) or at least when you are finished so that you can refer to it when trouble-shooting or adding to the system.

Carim