Joined: 24/11/2011(UTC) Posts: 228 Location: Lawrence Kansas
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Good day all. I've currently got a bit of a quandary. I'm looking to install a railroad crossing across a span of double track pictured below.  Originally, I was going to do so by setting railroad ties cross ways (Parallel with the rails) across the tracks and center ballast.  The problem however is that they're too thick. They would stand above the third rail and pickup shoes would lose contact. I've thought about sanding some down, but I'm not sure how I would do so and keep them all uniform in their thickness. I've also considered a paper option, but really don't know how well that would work as far as looks. I'm open to suggestions. -Fred
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Joined: 14/03/2005(UTC) Posts: 15,870 Location: Gibraltar, Europe
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Hi Fred,
It's not an easy thing to do. I used a Faller level crossing on my layout, and they bring some planked sections of plastic for laying in the track, but they also stick up above the level of the pukos. I also experimented with bits of card, but they tend to curl up and catch the pickup shoe.
In the end I decided to ignore the part of roadway inside the tracks, and just laid card and plastic strips up to the outsides of the rails. I then painted the middle of the tracks the same colour as the roadway and at first glance it looks OK. |
Ray
Mostly Marklin.Selection of different eras and European railways Small C track layout, control by MS2, 100+ trains but run 4-5 at a time.
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 2 users liked this useful post by RayF
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Joined: 16/11/2011(UTC) Posts: 5,845 Location: Hybrid Home
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I always use "Viessmann 5102 Gleisfüllstück H0". It is quite cheap and works on curved track, too. Alsterstreek attached the following image(s): |
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 7 users liked this useful post by Alsterstreek
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Joined: 16/11/2011(UTC) Posts: 5,845 Location: Hybrid Home
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Here a German (albeit illustrated) description of how to use a salvaged M track center piece for creating a realistic grade level crossing - click on link: http://stummiforum.de/vi...pic.php?p=592180#p592180And some homemade alternatives - see pic. Alsterstreek attached the following image(s): |
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 4 users liked this useful post by Alsterstreek
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Joined: 28/11/2007(UTC) Posts: 8,227 Location: Montreal, QC
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What about simply painting the appropriate section the colour of the street or crossing. This way, it would appear to be paved, but would not outright interfere with the operation of the trains? The other option would be installing the Maerklin Crossing with add on for multiple tracks which has all the necessary parts.
Regards
Mike C
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 2 users liked this useful post by mike c
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Joined: 31/03/2014(UTC) Posts: 36 Location: Ostalb, Württemberg
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... or use strips of brass sheet instead of wooden sleepers - at least for the two middle ones. The brass can be connected to the centre stud contacts either by directly soldering them together or by wiring it accordingly. It even can be given a dark surface finish by an appropriate stain (no paint). In Germany, in newer level crossings the gap between the rails is filled by a rubber mat like that one:  This can also be imitated by a piece of brass sheet with a structured surface  stained dark (deepnes of blackening can be adjusted by time of treastment)  and connected to the centre studs. Best regards MS 800 |
When we were kids we enjoyed our tinplate trains rattling over tinplate tracks - nowadays they're in need of sound decoders. |
 6 users liked this useful post by MS 800
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Joined: 24/11/2011(UTC) Posts: 228 Location: Lawrence Kansas
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Thanks for the responses everyone. I like Ray's idea with the card stock, but to prevent curling, I'm thinking I could use sheet plastic. -Fred
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 1 user liked this useful post by Marklin in Oz
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Joined: 14/03/2005(UTC) Posts: 15,870 Location: Gibraltar, Europe
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Originally Posted by: Marklin in Oz  Thanks for the responses everyone. I like Ray's idea with the card stock, but to prevent curling, I'm thinking I could use sheet plastic. -Fred Fred, here's a tip you might not have thought of. Old credit and debit cards are a great source of thin plastic for projects like this. It's tough and doesn't curl up easily. I keep a stock of old cards for this purpose. |
Ray
Mostly Marklin.Selection of different eras and European railways Small C track layout, control by MS2, 100+ trains but run 4-5 at a time.
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 5 users liked this useful post by RayF
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Joined: 01/03/2008(UTC) Posts: 2,883 Location: South Western France
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Originally Posted by: RayF  Originally Posted by: Marklin in Oz  Thanks for the responses everyone. I like Ray's idea with the card stock, but to prevent curling, I'm thinking I could use sheet plastic. -Fred Fred, here's a tip you might not have thought of. Old credit and debit cards are a great source of thin plastic for projects like this. It's tough and doesn't curl up easily. I keep a stock of old cards for this purpose. Smart! Very smart! One for the "things to remember" file! Cheers |
Jacques Vuye aka Dr.Eisenbahn Once a vandal, learned to be better and had great success! |
 3 users liked this useful post by jvuye
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Joined: 24/11/2011(UTC) Posts: 228 Location: Lawrence Kansas
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Originally Posted by: RayF  Originally Posted by: Marklin in Oz  Thanks for the responses everyone. I like Ray's idea with the card stock, but to prevent curling, I'm thinking I could use sheet plastic. -Fred Fred, here's a tip you might not have thought of. Old credit and debit cards are a great source of thin plastic for projects like this. It's tough and doesn't curl up easily. I keep a stock of old cards for this purpose. I've already got some some pieces of sheet plastic floating around, but as jvuye noted that's a damn fine idea. -Fred
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 1 user liked this useful post by Marklin in Oz
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