It seems to be a great kit ! [:0][:0][:0]

Have fun and keeps us informed of work progress.

Pierre.

I've also read about the kits being quite tricky. Though, most posts I've read claim that the Challenger is not that difficult, the K-4 Atlantic is supposedly impossible

Hi,

Great model, but the kit looks like quite a lot of work, especially the painting and lettering job. I suppose you'll give it a decently weathered look ?

What I wonder is about the two driver trucks of the Challenger. Are they both powered by the same motor ? I can see two driver axles with gear wheel, but the motor only has one worm wheel.

Hans Martin

Jon: Thanks for the link!

Hans Martin: One motor drives both driver trucks.
There is a drive line that couples it all together
(described in step #8 of the manual)

And oh yes, it will be heavily weathered like the poor steamers were in the 50's

Information from the NorthWest Short Line model maintenance shared information databank

BOWSER RE-motor/Regearing
Driver axle size on BOWSER HO locomotives is 1/8", therefore, select a
1/8" axle gearbox that fits the reduction ratio you desire and the locomotive drive layout. In most instances of HO locomotive, the idler style provides an easier installation by getting the driveline up making connection to the motor easier. The 0.4mod size (can be difficult to install due to large size) is recommended for heavy HO locomotives (available in only 28-1 ratio) and the 0.3mod size for smaller HO locomotives although modelers report them satisfactory in all sizes HO locomotives. The 28-1 ratio provides a higher speed than the 36-1 ratio which would be desirable for 'drag' locomotives. The 2032 size motor is the most commonly used motor for mid to large size HO locomotives with the 1630 being commonly used on smaller engines such as the 4-4-2. In any event, determine the space available to make sure the motor will fit.
Installing a new (NWSL) gearbox in your Bowser locomotive does mean that the axle gear must be replaced (with the gear in the gearbox kit). This requires marking the driver location on the axle so you can be sure to reassemble the (removed) driver at exactly the same location (quarter). This can be accomplished by scribing an (off-center) line across the axle end and driver center so that you can line these marks up when re-assembling the driverset. Scribing (scratching) can be done with a razor blade or other (fine) sharp instrument.
Motor most commonly used in the K-11 is the 2032 size Sagami. This size can be used in other Bowser locomotives or the 1833 or 1836 size motors can be installed if more power is desired. One easy method is to use the single shaft (20322-9) and mount the gearbox directly on the motor shaft.
Consider installing a flywheel on the motor shaft also. For faster speed level common to a Pacific, use a 28-1 ratio gearbox. Your axle is 1/8". Select the appropriate style from the enclosed catalog sheets - you could use an 0.3mod size (#142-6 or #143-6), but if room permits (it should) you might prefer the heavier duty 0.4mod size (#242-6 or #243-6). An idler style is usually preferred because they are generally smoother running and because it permits rather horizontal motor mounting which is usually easier to fit. Fitting the gearbox into the frame may require some filing of the gear slot to make it larger.
If you decide to only re-motor, the original worm would probably fit as the original motor shaft is 3/32" while the replacement 2032 (or 1833 or 1836) has a 2.4mm shaft which is almost the same as 3/32".
As long as you're into it and have the courage, replacing both the gearbox and motor should provide the most desirable results.
See also: MODEL RAILROADER, Dec 1985, pp 94+

CHALLENGER
Original gearing: OD=0.289"-7.35mm; bore=press to .0930 shaft; L=.50" with .082" boss on each end. Axle 31T WG = .657" OD (16.7mm) x 1/8" bore x 1/8" face phenolic.
"The #159-6 HiLo really does improve the Bowser 'Challenger'. Its a pity that Bowser doesn't include it as standard. I'm now fitting the #20325-9 motor (lots of room for it) and anticipate that I will have a steam engine that runs as well as my diesels." N L-M, NY NY 1-7-87;

Installed 22401-9 motor, great improvement JN 10-7-96

Due to width of axle bearings and axle gear (both wider than usually encountered), 44-4 QUARTERER cannot fit without thinning the bearings from .160" to about .120" but this then requires adding fiber washers (split so they can be added after wheelset is assembled) to retain the bearing in proper location. RH 62927 950130 (note: use the newly released #64-4 QUARTERER II which eliminates the above described limitations).


***********************************************************************
TRUCKS, TENDER TRUCKS
Although the Bowser axle has a pointed end, they are effectively a shouldered style - replace with shouldered style (axle) wheelsets (#37107-4,
#37108-4, etc.) Depending on truck, may have to (1) shorten axle slightly (file ends back) and/or (2) file back of sideframe slightly to thin journal boss on back of sideframe.

All NWSL motors are DCC compatible.

- congratulations, Ulf !!! How much is that kit ?

Very good buy with bargain.

here are some more good video resources on UP challenger (including 3985) . I've seen some of these on the RFD-TV channel on Dishnet satellite - they're pretty good as far as filmography goes.
http://www.pentrex.com/3985.html
(there are a few other websites that sell the same video above - good footage of an excursion run back in 1990 or so)

http://www.rrhistorical....l&ORDER_ID=319627319 (lots of other good train videos too, on N&W and PRR)

I've seen some good prices on Bowser kits on ebay recently, but have been leary of buying one.

Tough job,Ulf.

Keep report soon.

That might be the reason!. Without heavy wheels or some other weight the trailer might derail. Didn't think of that!
Thanks Hans Martin!

I've been googling quite a bit, but still haven't found examples of conversions to Märklin. After just a few hours working with the kit, I can see why...[:I]

Wow! You must have the patience of an angel. I couldn't handle working on this detailed model. Lots of rework to get it running on three rail. Keep us informed.

I would too [xx(]. This is going to take some time...

Hi ulf999,

How is your procees on kit?

Progress is slow. Work interferes with my hobby ... Also I'm waiting for parts

Do you have any spare long rod in pack?

I have to admit at close view the castings look very crude - not sharp at all. You can get the lionel HO Challenger on ebay and convert it with a lot less labor. This looooks very difficult.

Hi Ulf,

Sorry to read your problems with the Challenger. Nothing more annoying than faulty base material.

Good luck!

Jeroen

Thanks Jeroen

Sorry for my ignorance but... Isn¢¥t that what Hans Martin said; could you have accidently switched the two sets of rods, and simply must switch them back again?!

2007-04-13:

I took the whole thing appart and compared the pieces:


There are a few missing mm here [:(]
It seems that I once again will have to place an order to replace broken/missing/failing parts. [:(!]

Sorry, my friend. At least now we know what not to buy ... [xx(]

Hi Ulf (don't know if I may dare to ask [:I]) ... any news about ?

Any news, Ulf?

You're so right, Ulf - with a myriad of locos outa there why bother too much ...
And if she won't run - no problem. Heavily weathered she were the superstar of any junkyard [:p]

And what an expensive piece of junk