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Danlake		#1 Posted : 02 February 2012 11:07:27(UTC) Retweet
Joined: 03/08/2011(UTC) Posts: 1,571		This is how I made relatively cheap wooden bridge pillars for the standard size Marklin bridges, which I think turned out ok for a first attempt Soft pine wood. Cut to size and make lines with pencil: Use a sharp knife to make a dent horizontally: Deepen the cut using a soldering iron: Use a sharp screw driver to make the vertical dents: Spray paint in grey colour: Weathering (first a light grey colour and then various colours using dry brush techniques. Used some soft black pastel powder on top of pillar to simulate the soot from trains): In position taking the load! Brgs - Lasse
		Digital 11m2 layout / C (M&K) tracks / Era IV / CS3 60226 / Train Controller Gold 9 with 4D sound. Mainly Danish and German Locomotives.
5 users liked this useful post by Danlake		hennabm, Piggy, Darren W, agvera, intruder
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BillJ		#2 Posted : 02 February 2012 13:26:00(UTC) Retweet
Joined: 08/06/2009(UTC) Posts: 75 Location: White Mountains, NH		Those are great! Well done, and thanks for taking the time to share. Bill
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BrandonVA		#3 Posted : 02 February 2012 15:16:50(UTC) Retweet
Joined: 09/12/2011(UTC) Posts: 2,533 Location: VA		Wow, nice job!
		My (new) layout progress - BrandonBahn III My previous layout - Brandonbahn II (click here)
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Chris6382chris		#4 Posted : 02 February 2012 18:06:58(UTC) Retweet
Joined: 27/11/2009(UTC) Posts: 1,218 Location: Middle of the US		Very nice, thanks for sharing that. I will use the idea on my layout for sure. Chris
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intruder		#5 Posted : 02 February 2012 18:13:37(UTC) Retweet
Joined: 16/08/2006(UTC) Posts: 5,382 Location: Akershus, Norway		Thanks for the tip, Lasse. Good idea and nice result.
		Best regards Svein, Norway grumpy old sod
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Piggy		#6 Posted : 02 February 2012 18:35:45(UTC) Retweet
Joined: 08/05/2009(UTC) Posts: 590 Location: Sydney		Very nicely made Lasse, looks really good.
		Regards Kenneth CS1 update - K & C tracks - German Era 3B & 4, with some Swiss and Austrian visitors. - My Layout
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hennabm		#7 Posted : 02 February 2012 19:12:09(UTC) Retweet
Joined: 22/09/2009(UTC) Posts: 2,073 Location: Edinburgh,		Excellent idea Thank you for sharing Mike
		1957 - 1985 era What's digital?
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Lollo		#8 Posted : 02 February 2012 20:03:00(UTC) Retweet
Joined: 22/06/2009(UTC) Posts: 365		Great job, well done. Brian.
		Brian Yaasan's Desktop Station/Railuino & Marklin MS2, DB Era III/IV Diesel & Steam, ESU Loksound/Lokpilot & Lokprogrammer, Marklin mSD, Tam Valley Depot Octopus III Servo Controller.
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Yumgui		#9 Posted : 02 February 2012 20:12:27(UTC) Retweet
Joined: 20/03/2011(UTC) Posts: 1,660 Location: Paris, France		Nice technik Danlake ^^ Y
		If your M track is rusted ... DON'T throw it out ! Working on: https://studiogang.com/projects/all My heavy train station renovation: https://youtu.be/QQlyNiq416A Inspired by: http://www.nakedmarklin.com/... Am not alone in this universe, phew.
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BR01097		#10 Posted : 02 February 2012 20:19:49(UTC) Retweet
Joined: 17/11/2010(UTC) Posts: 228 Location: Denver, Colo. USA		Much better than the uniform, plastic pillars. Thanks for the tip! A favorite is the mosses in the mortar!
		____________________________________________________________________________ Collector of Märklin fine-quality trains since 1966.
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Nielsenr		#11 Posted : 02 February 2012 20:55:21(UTC) Retweet
Joined: 06/10/2010(UTC) Posts: 883 Location: Fort Lauderdale, FL		Great work!!
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Johnvr		#12 Posted : 02 February 2012 21:01:11(UTC) Retweet
Joined: 03/10/2010(UTC) Posts: 1,296 Location: Cape Town, South Africa		Excellent weathering & pictures. Thank you. Regards, John
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Shintaro		#13 Posted : 02 February 2012 21:06:12(UTC) Retweet
Joined: 23/09/2011(UTC) Posts: 240 Location: Campbelltown		Thank you. I'll be using your tip. Cheers, Marc.
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Bigdaddynz		#14 Posted : 02 February 2012 23:31:24(UTC) Retweet
Joined: 17/09/2006(UTC) Posts: 18,777 Location: New Zealand		My bridge pillars were even quicker to make! They were intended to imitate a concrete pillar rather than brick. Take 2 pieces of 20mm MDF board, cut to approximate width and glue together. Once dry, setup an electric router (wood router not a network router) with a bullnose bit, and run pillars through the router, putting a rounded edge on each corner. Cut pillars to needed height and paint and weather as needed! Job done! BTW Danlake, I do like the method you used to score the brick markings on your pillars.
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kariosls37		#15 Posted : 03 February 2012 05:42:31(UTC) Retweet
You have been a member since:: 02/01/2009(UTC) Posts: 1,067 Location: Auckland, New Zealand		Nice pillars The only thing I would do as well is to higlight some bricks by making them ligter or darker. It makes a huge diffrence.
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Ian555		#16 Posted : 03 February 2012 07:42:25(UTC) Retweet
Joined: 04/06/2009(UTC) Posts: 20,295 Location: Scotland		Hi Lasse, Nice work. Ian.
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Danlake		#17 Posted : 03 February 2012 22:06:46(UTC) Retweet
Joined: 03/08/2011(UTC) Posts: 1,571		Thanks for comments. Good idea Bigdaddynz with using a router for wood work. Must buy one of these for my toolbox. Cheers - Lasse
		Digital 11m2 layout / C (M&K) tracks / Era IV / CS3 60226 / Train Controller Gold 9 with 4D sound. Mainly Danish and German Locomotives.
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Western Pacific		#18 Posted : 04 February 2012 00:04:50(UTC) Retweet
Joined: 19/09/2009(UTC) Posts: 841 Location: Lidingö, Sweden		Very nice pillars from both Lasse and Bigdaddynz and I could actually imagen using both techiques. In cases where a single track line has been converted to double track, one track could be on a bridge with older pillars an the secon on one with newer pillars. Then there is also a more sad aspect of having older and newer pillars and that goes in particular if you are building a layout in a German setting where many railway bridges were destroyed towards the end of the second world war. An example below, the Hohenzollernbrücke in Köln (Cologne).
1 user liked this useful post by Western Pacific		Mark5
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Webmaster		#19 Posted : 04 February 2012 00:10:16(UTC) Retweet
Joined: 25/07/2001(UTC) Posts: 11,165		Since the pics don't show ok in the first post, go here - https://www.marklin-user...um.aspx?u=3670&a=100
		Juhan - "Webmaster", at your service... He who asks a question is a fool for five minutes. He who does not ask a question remains a fool forever. [Old Chinese Proverb]
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Danlake		#20 Posted : 05 February 2012 09:51:05(UTC) Retweet
Joined: 03/08/2011(UTC) Posts: 1,571		Thanks Juhan Am Iam doing something wrong when posting photos I use the album facility on the Marklin server and link the photos. Is it better to upload photos to one of the free photo servers provider and then link from there? Cheers - Lasse
		Digital 11m2 layout / C (M&K) tracks / Era IV / CS3 60226 / Train Controller Gold 9 with 4D sound. Mainly Danish and German Locomotives.
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Danlake		#21 Posted : 05 February 2012 09:56:16(UTC) Retweet
Joined: 03/08/2011(UTC) Posts: 1,571		Great idea "Western Pacific", having 2 types of bridge pillars. Food for thoughts for furture expansion plans!
		Digital 11m2 layout / C (M&K) tracks / Era IV / CS3 60226 / Train Controller Gold 9 with 4D sound. Mainly Danish and German Locomotives.
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jvuye		#22 Posted : 05 February 2012 10:07:39(UTC) Retweet
Joined: 01/03/2008(UTC) Posts: 2,883 Location: South Western France		Excellent work, something to remember when I'll be installing a few bridges on my future layout! Just a suggestion (or constructive criticism if you prefer) if I may: You'll see that, in real life, most bridge pillars are not parallelipipedic in shape but rather truncaded pyramids. Doesn't take anything away from your good technique though!! Thanks
		Jacques Vuye aka Dr.Eisenbahn Once a vandal, learned to be better and had great success!
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Bigdaddynz		#23 Posted : 05 February 2012 10:42:05(UTC) Retweet
Joined: 17/09/2006(UTC) Posts: 18,777 Location: New Zealand		Originally Posted by: jvuye .....parallelipipedic...... Try saying that real fast!!
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hennabm		#24 Posted : 05 February 2012 12:26:00(UTC) Retweet
Joined: 22/09/2009(UTC) Posts: 2,073 Location: Edinburgh,		Hi are the supports holding M bridges or some other make. If M bridges are they the plastic or metal variety. Why I ask is on the metal variety there are the holes to locate them to the M bridge pillars and I was wondering if you have used the same support point and how you locate them? Mike
		1957 - 1985 era What's digital?
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Loadmaster		#25 Posted : 05 February 2012 21:25:34(UTC) Retweet
Joined: 03/02/2010(UTC) Posts: 898 Location: So Cal		Lasse, What type of wood do you use for the piers, balsa or something harder?
		HOac and Z scale running SBB/BLS Era IV-V
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Webmaster		#26 Posted : 05 February 2012 21:27:40(UTC) Retweet
Joined: 25/07/2001(UTC) Posts: 11,165		Lasse, it is a flaw of the current forum software - this albumimage thingy - will be fixed with the next update which is coming within a week or 2...
		Juhan - "Webmaster", at your service... He who asks a question is a fool for five minutes. He who does not ask a question remains a fool forever. [Old Chinese Proverb]
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Bigdaddynz		#27 Posted : 05 February 2012 21:30:06(UTC) Retweet
Joined: 17/09/2006(UTC) Posts: 18,777 Location: New Zealand		Originally Posted by: Loadmaster Lasse, What type of wood do you use for the piers, balsa or something harder? Robert, check Lasse's 1st post, he uses 'Soft Pine' wood.
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JRPiano		#28 Posted : 05 February 2012 21:55:16(UTC) Retweet
Joined: 18/03/2008(UTC) Posts: 32 Location: Round Rock, TX		The creative juices are flowing in New Zealand! Thank you both for your how-to ideas. What do you use to attach the tracks to the piers and do you fasten the piers to your table also? Joel
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Bigdaddynz		#29 Posted : 05 February 2012 23:52:38(UTC) Retweet
Joined: 17/09/2006(UTC) Posts: 18,777 Location: New Zealand		I used some contact adhesive to attach the pillars to the base board. Then when dry, I used ordinary M track screws to fasten the bridges to the pillars.
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Danlake		#30 Posted : 06 February 2012 20:34:58(UTC) Retweet
Joined: 03/08/2011(UTC) Posts: 1,571		Hi Mike, The bridges are the "newer" one of plastic. I used contact adhesive as Bigdaddy to secure them. I like the idea of making the pillars more pyramid shape. Brgs - Lasse
		Digital 11m2 layout / C (M&K) tracks / Era IV / CS3 60226 / Train Controller Gold 9 with 4D sound. Mainly Danish and German Locomotives.
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polabear		#31 Posted : 07 February 2012 02:59:03(UTC) Retweet
Joined: 19/06/2011(UTC) Posts: 24 Location: Canada		Nice job with the pillars guys. I have just completed some for my layout. I cut up some 7064 pillars and glued the locating pins to a piece of wood, then built the piers around them using casted plaster of paris. I need to finish the painting.
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2 users liked this useful post by polabear		Mark5, Smudge
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Loadmaster		#32 Posted : 07 February 2012 05:32:31(UTC) Retweet
Joined: 03/02/2010(UTC) Posts: 898 Location: So Cal		Originally Posted by: Bigdaddynz Originally Posted by: Loadmaster Lasse, What type of wood do you use for the piers, balsa or something harder? Robert, check Lasse's 1st post, he uses 'Soft Pine' wood. Thanks Dave, I'm have a case of "Brain Fart" this week. Rob
		HOac and Z scale running SBB/BLS Era IV-V
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Yumgui		#33 Posted : 07 February 2012 08:11:29(UTC) Retweet
Joined: 20/03/2011(UTC) Posts: 1,660 Location: Paris, France		polabear, Originally Posted by: polabear Very nice ! Why be mad about it Yum
		If your M track is rusted ... DON'T throw it out ! Working on: https://studiogang.com/projects/all My heavy train station renovation: https://youtu.be/QQlyNiq416A Inspired by: http://www.nakedmarklin.com/... Am not alone in this universe, phew.
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Smudge		#34 Posted : 26 October 2012 07:18:07(UTC) Retweet
Joined: 25/10/2012(UTC) Posts: 40 Location: Western Sydney		Originally Posted by: polabear Nice job with the pillars guys. I have just completed some for my layout. I cut up some 7064 pillars and glued the locating pins to a piece of wood, then built the piers around them using casted plaster of paris. I need to finish the painting. Very nice job on those pillars – shape, angled ends – the double layer with the 2 tone greys – and the stone work looks great too I'm sure this scene will look very realistic when finished, make sure you post some updated image Many thanks Cheers Smudge
		Cheers Smudge Marklin Modellers of Sydney
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polabear		#35 Posted : 28 October 2012 02:48:56(UTC) Retweet
Joined: 19/06/2011(UTC) Posts: 24 Location: Canada		Hi Smudge, Thanks for your comments. I didn't like the look of the Marklin brown plastic pillars and couldn't find any suitable ones commercially. I have done only a little on the layout since then, but have been picking away at the area behind the bridge recently. It is a corner that I can't reach with the bridge in place. It is very tight so the track is almost against the wall. It is also my first attempt at scenicing. Dave
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Smudge		#36 Posted : 28 October 2012 23:42:14(UTC) Retweet
Joined: 25/10/2012(UTC) Posts: 40 Location: Western Sydney		Originally Posted by: polabear Hi Smudge, Thanks for your comments. I didn't like the look of the Marklin brown plastic pillars and couldn't find any suitable ones commercially. I have done only a little on the layout since then, but have been picking away at the area behind the bridge recently. It is a corner that I can't reach with the bridge in place. It is very tight so the track is almost against the wall. It is also my first attempt at scenicing. Dave Hi Dave Your first attempt at scenicing! Well done your getting there that's for sure, and it looks like you've been looking at lots of reference pictures. Once again your casting work is very good, the little bridge abutments are nice additions, when I'm weathering brick or stone work I like to use a blackish wash that seeps into the shadow areas, if too much goes on a damp rag cleans up the top surface. Then I dry brush the highlights or razed edges, by dragging the paint brush top to bottom to catch the top edges with paint. Just check your reference pics for details, colours, how the rain/water runs down the surface and leaves its traces behind For grass, one of the clubs members has built a static-grass applicator, like the Nock ones, I'm looking forward to getting my hands on that, I really like the finished results. That will be sometime, I need to get some light weight bridge pillars and abutments done. It's for a exhibition layout so maybe the plaster will be too heavy or I need to keep its use to an absolute minimum. For reference, I checkout the MIBA publications, Eisenbahn journal, some totally amazing stuff, I hope I haven't set my sites too high Well done again Cheers Smudge
		Cheers Smudge Marklin Modellers of Sydney
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FMS		#37 Posted : 29 October 2012 00:30:29(UTC) Retweet
Joined: 01/01/2009(UTC) Posts: 839 Location: PT
		Regards FMS
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kimballthurlow		#38 Posted : 29 October 2012 05:22:35(UTC) Retweet
Joined: 18/03/2007(UTC) Posts: 6,764 Location: Brisbane, Australia		Thanks for all the different styles of pillars, and the various manufacture methods. All good. In this photo, I have a contrast. The older bridge is the one at the rear, and it is supported by pillars made of steel cylinders, with steel sheet between. They are riveted together (the 1890s). In HO scale, I don't need to show the rivets, though I could with a darker colour dot. I made them from electrical conduit, and styrene sheet. Another view when being built. regards Kimball
		HO Scale - Märklin (ep II-III and VI, C Track, digital) - 2 rail HO (Queensland Australia, UK, USA) - 3 rail OO (English Hornby Dublo) - old clockwork O gauge - Live Steam 90mm (3.1/2 inch) gauge.
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Goofy		#39 Posted : 29 October 2012 19:06:43(UTC) Retweet
Joined: 12/08/2006(UTC) Posts: 9,286		Nice picture of bridge stone walls. But i prefer by using plaster and scraping traces of stone wall. Later i put colour. In that way you will get more realistic bridge stone wall.
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Goofy		#40 Posted : 29 October 2012 19:09:00(UTC) Retweet
Joined: 12/08/2006(UTC) Posts: 9,286		If you shall use plastic walls i suggest you try to dirt with colour mixed with thinner and dry of with a clean cotton old T-shirt.
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