Quote:[size=1" face="Verdana" id="quote]quote:Originally posted by CCS800KrokHunter3
<br />Hello everyone,
I know this has been talked about before a little but I could not find a thread through my searches that pleases me...Where do you start with it? I have seen many starter sets on Ebay and other internet stores but I have a few questions about it.
1. Have any of you used it?
Yes - both handlaid and "play street" sectional track
The product has been out a very long time. I think most people ge put off because they "think" it must be hard.
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2. What are the downsides of it?
none really . except maybe the attention to correct battery use.
Visually the sudden stop (if you use this feature)
Also a number of "considerations" with track laying that get learnt from experience
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3. How does it charge?
As supplied - all vehicles have a socket into which you plug a 2.9V PS (supplied with starter sets).
MoWuLa devised a mechanism where the contacts were in the wing mirrors and could be charge as part of the running program by driving through a sort of "car wash".
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4. How long does a charge last?
The bigger the vehicle the bigger the battery. Note there are very few cars - most are vans/busses as they can acomodate a bigger battery.
Also the condition of the battery has an impact.
2hr to 4hs continuous running or a days worth of exhibition running if you are prudent with the duty cycle.
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5. Are there lights on the cars?
Not normally. even LEDs @ 20mA would severly shorten run time.
But it has been done
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6. Can the cars be self-made or kit bashed?
Most cars offered by Faller are modified brawa, herpa, wiking etc. The most important part is the steering/guide mechanism.
Personally I would not consider scratch building one, however bashing the body off the top of a faller chassis would be expected if the car you wanted is not in the range.
As for the track any "Steel" wire/rod will do, but here the cost from faller avoids inferior options.
Note: because of the steel aspect expect rust if you are abbrasive in your sanding and or use water. i.e. do not sand/scrape.
Additional.
almost since Day one Faller have been an unsung marketting aid for Maerklin. Very early on they offered the flat car inserts that fit into marklin wagons and allow for rollon rolloff. They also address the level crossing issue well with appropriate (3 rail) inserts.
- gearing will allow for pretty severe gradiants but this drastically shortens run time and differs significantly between vehicles. suggest keeping to a minimum
- AVOID bumps, especially on curves which will encorage mistracking
- plan track crossings as close to 90 degrees as possible, avoid M track (magnet sticks to metal) C is great. Have the road at the same level as the track on approach - avoid gradients/bumps
- with handlaying the wire pay attention to smoothness of lines, especially transitions into curves but even a straight will show up shaky hand to the observer.
Also the depth of the layed wire. The wire must be very close to the surface to avoid mistracking but not become exposed so as to allow the magnet to actually "grab hold". As with the above comment on encouraging rust, I would suggest fixing the wire in a grove and covering with "road coloured" paper or preferably plastic as the guide shoe does rub and wear a mark over time.
- WARNING - At exhibitions the system detracts from the trains on a layout with more questions about "how it works" than anything else
I would recommend a "Playstreet" starter set to get familiar with the product. We have chosen this for the clubs exhibition layout primarily because of reliability and better alignment at module joins (as well as time and patitence). Note: the width of the road is (prototypically) realistic but wider than most train models allow - but thats where scenicing comes in.
Faller also offer accessories
- point mechanisms for a choice of directions (we have a bus stop)
- stop mechanisms (Electromagnet that breaks the reed switch in the vehicle. NOTE: the playstreet range also offer a permanent magnet on a lever that achieves the same effect
- lights (for above at either rail cossing or intersection)
- delay mechanism (keep vehicles apart)
