Joined: 12/01/2005(UTC)
Posts: 703
Location: ,
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Hi!
I've recently received the first parts for a 1:24 scale all brass/cast iron building kit I'll be building over the coming years. Just gathering the parts will take about 2 years alone, and then there's the building and painting etc. I will keep a report on the whole thing once I get started, which probably won't be until I have a lot more parts.
Anyway, since the kit is all metal, several of the main parts are screwed. However, all the small parts and even those screwed ones will need to be glued. For this I need 2 types of superglue, one that's really thin flowing and will get into all the little cracks, and a gel type superglue that I can smear on larger parts and takes a while to dry.
Neither of those are a problem to get, Faller for example makes both types, as do several hundred other companies. However, most of them leave white spots when dry, which is something I'd prefer not to have happen.
Any tips for superglue that dries up clear, and which is easily available in Europe? (more specifically, Norway, or possibly Germany or The Netherlands)
Thanks ;)
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- Martijn
(early planning : H0-scale Era I K.Bay.sts.b)
(active planning : N-scale mixed late Era Japanese)
(possibly something Z-scale as well ;)) |
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 Joined: 16/08/2006(UTC) Posts: 5,382 Location: Akershus, Norway
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Hi Martijn
For the time being my liquid one is Tesa Lynlim, a Danish product available in all kinds of stores. I have not seen any white marks after drying up.
For the gel type, I don't remebmber, as I just threw it away, empty. Also bought in a normal store, like Jernia or Maxbo.
I do remember that it left no white traces.
Locktite normally makes good products, so does Tesa and Casco and probably many others. |
Best regards Svein, Norway
grumpy old sod
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Joined: 12/01/2005(UTC)
Posts: 703
Location: ,
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Thanks for the tips. The manufacturers of the building kit actually recommend certain types of Loctite, but I haven't been able to find those specific ones. The only ones I found were those that turn white when drying up, which doesn't look good. I'm not sure it matters that much really, since I'll be painting the whole thing anyway, so it might be covered, or I might be able to sand off the excess glue. Better safe than sorry though =) |
- Martijn
(early planning : H0-scale Era I K.Bay.sts.b)
(active planning : N-scale mixed late Era Japanese)
(possibly something Z-scale as well ;)) |
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Joined: 27/10/2006(UTC)
Posts: 692
Location: Italy
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You may want to look for Zap products here: http://www.hannants.co.ukthere is also an accelerator which comes quite handy when you are gleeing different media. |
Alessandro
I have a CS1 Reloaded! |
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Joined: 26/10/2004(UTC)
Posts: 461
Location: Bruges,
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I have used the zap glue and the "zap-kicker" accelerator spray. It sticks very well and very fast, but the kicker fumes are worse than smoke oil! |
Kind regards,
Pieter-Jan
Bruges, Belgium. |
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