Joined: 26/10/2004(UTC) Posts: 461 Location: Bruges,
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Yesterday, I saw the kadee couplers in action for the first time. I was amazed by the smooth coupling!
As I understand it, they can be uncoupled by halting over a (permanent) magnet mounted between the rails. I've seen this on a 2-rail track. But I was wondering how you implement this on a M* layout, what about the puko's? |
Kind regards, Pieter-Jan Bruges, Belgium. |
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Joined: 06/10/2006(UTC) Posts: 1,345 Location: ,
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You can buy a handheld magnetic uncoupler too - looks like an "n" with a pair of magnets in the legs and a handle. They work reasonably well though they're not truly hands-off
You can also get under-track magnets that might be a better idea. On K track they'd just go under the sleepers as they do on 2 rail. Just beware the way that any rolling stock with ferrous metals on board is attracted to them!
P.S. One other word of advice - get a height gauge. Kadees are excellent, but they don't work well if they're not at the right height. Kadee's own is very effective and not too expensive. |
Matt from Wales.
When you pay Range Rover prices, don't accept Lada quality |
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Joined: 15/02/2004(UTC) Posts: 1,591 Location: Pennsylvania
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Joined: 26/10/2004(UTC) Posts: 461 Location: Bruges,
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Thanks for your replies. The goal is smooth, hands-off coupling and uncoupling. We are contemplating using kadee couplers on a club layout (C-track). The main reason is for easy and accurate shunting, as the layout models an endstation and the locos need to move around to the other end of the train to depart again. For now, this is done with M* uncoupler rails, but that's not always very efficient.[:(] ALso coupling the train to a loco is not as smooth as we'd like. We've equipped two cars with kadees to test. Indeed, bending the wire is needed to avoid contact with pukos on turnouts. So far tests went great.  Only the locos and front and rear cars of a train would be converted to kadee to keep the cars close together (As I understand that kadee cannot couple as close as M* closecouplers). I have a few more questions...[:o)] Would a magnet, mounted under the plastic bed of C-track, be strong enough to uncouple them? Or will the metal from the pukos interfere with the magnetism? Will it magnetize the complete track? Will a standard magnet do, or do we need "supermagnets" of some sort? And what size is appropriate? Anyone who uses these uncoupler magnets with C-track have some suggestions, tips, tricks? I'm sorry to ask so many questions at once, but the layout is already finished and we'd need to tear it down quite a bit to insert the magnets.[V] So I'd like to be sure that all that work will bring the desired effect before starting the demolition work.  Some pictures of the layout can be seen at http://www.dwarsliggers.be/De%20Dwarsliggers.htm (in Dutch), click on "fotoalbum" and then on "Wiltz". |
Kind regards, Pieter-Jan Bruges, Belgium. |
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Joined: 06/10/2006(UTC) Posts: 1,345 Location: ,
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Quote:[size=1" face="Verdana" id="quote]quote: Originally posted by jonquinn<br />you will need to bend up the little wire some so it lies above the center rail contacts/pukos. like these - kadee sells same thing http://www.ares-server.c...ype=Product&ID=14483 You shouldn't need to do that - if the coupler knuckle is at the right height, then the wire won't hit the rails at all. |
Matt from Wales.
When you pay Range Rover prices, don't accept Lada quality |
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Joined: 09/11/2004(UTC) Posts: 2,346 Location: Longueuil, Quebec
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Quote:[size=1" face="Verdana" id="quote]quote: Originally posted by WelshMatt<br /> Quote:[size=1" face="Verdana" id="quote]quote: Originally posted by jonquinn<br />you will need to bend up the little wire some so it lies above the center rail contacts/pukos. like these - kadee sells same thing http://www.ares-server.c...ype=Product&ID=14483 You shouldn't need to do that - if the coupler knuckle is at the right height, then the wire won't hit the rails at all. The problem is almost never the rails themselves but center rail pukos that are higher than rails in turnouts and crossings and in which coupler trip pins can jam. This problem has already been discussed in several threads including this one. Pierre.
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Joined: 28/05/2003(UTC) Posts: 719 Location: ,
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Joined: 12/01/2003(UTC) Posts: 2,528 Location: Groton, Connecticut
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Pieter-Jan: Your club layout looks really nice, kudos to you and your fellow members. Ira |
Building German Era I-II layout(Mk IIIc).  |
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Joined: 16/07/2002(UTC) Posts: 1,575 Location: DeSoto (Dallas area), TX
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One thing to consider: Kadee couplers are made for pulling. For this, they work great. However, when I run push-pull on my club layout using EU-style couplers, all the other folks ask "How can you push like that?" [}:)] I regularly run my IC 8-car consist in both directions with no problems. I do not think I could do that with Kadee couplers.  |
The McLae IB digital, DB, OBB, SBB epII-V Providing a home for little lost 'Gators |
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Joined: 12/08/2006(UTC) Posts: 9,277
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Is there trouble by using magnetic uncopler on the digital railway...? Goofy  |
H0 DCC = Digital Command Control
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Joined: 06/10/2006(UTC) Posts: 1,345 Location: ,
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There shouldn't be any trouble with digital - I used magnetic uncouplers on a DCC layout with no problems. Agree that they're not so hot for propelling - the Marklin close coupler is a far better idea for that as it has "ears" to keep the couplers together. |
Matt from Wales.
When you pay Range Rover prices, don't accept Lada quality |
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