Roco has introduced short coupling mechanisms for passenger coaches. I suppose these can be used on locos as well. However this requires that you cut off the original couplers.

Hello everybody
This is how I do it, as I like all my locomotives and cars to be close coupled. Not only for the shorter distance between the units, but also for less play in the pulling and pushing state of the couplings.



In the photo, from the left:
1- Original coupler to 3071, M* part no. 211 280.
2- Another coupling (for 3105? I do not remember)
3- The same coupling after modification with a coupling from 7205
4- A coupling from 7205
5- A coupler pocket, long type, M* part no. 363 950. Maybe it's better to use a short one, no. 288 390

I haven't tried (I will soon), but it should be possible to glue in a coupler pocket instead of the coupler itself, if it is space behind the pocket after installing it to the locomotive. On my 3171 there seems to be plenty of space.
I allways buy new coupler before modification, to be able to convert back to the original condition, if I don't have any in my spare part box.

Please notice the lenght difference in the original and the modified coupling. My excperience from test layouts indicates no problems with the couplings interfere with the bumpers in curves.
I of course clean the surfaces very good before gluing, and I us the gel-type super glue.

Cut the original coupling just in front of the "needle eyes", grind it smooth, glue in the cut close coupler (or pocket), finally bend the "eyes" to make a firm grip around the coupler. Be sure that you have a free movement of the moving parts on top of the coupler.

But, a remark: 3170 was delivered originally with clouse couplers in set 2870 in 1989 and 1990. This should (maybe) be avalible as spare parts, if we only knew the number.

Hello

I have downloaded those pdf-files to my PC, but haven't examined them yet. I have seen them in Märklin Magazine, I think.

Nice job.

Maybe I am wrong,but when looking at the last picture I think it is maybe better to glue the holder upside-down. It seems to me it then would be easier to get the correct height for the coupler.

Bart

Thank you for the great tip! I just did exactly what you did on my E32 18 (they have the same chassis as the swedish loco). I had the NEM pockets and couplers already lying around to do this but you convinced me to proceed with it. I did not even have to glue it as you did. If you bend them correctly the grip is firm enough so that the coupling in the nem pocket will release sooner than the pocket itself.

Bert