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3170 Swedish elok - Can I change old metal coupler
Joined: 05/02/2006(UTC)
Posts: 20
Location: , MI
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Hello All,
Is it possible to change old metal couplers on Marklin 3170 Swedish wooden elok for new type with pockets (NEM type?)? If yes, How difficult would this be? I can't check this because I do not have this lok myself yet but want to buy one.
I would also like to add digital decoder to this lok, then run f1 wire down to new style coupler so I can install current conducting coupler to power passenger wagon lighting, which already have current conducting couplers on them.
Thanks for any info you can provide. Stew.
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Rydman
ETE Member#824
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 Joined: 04/06/2002(UTC) Posts: 754 Location: Täby
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Roco has introduced short coupling mechanisms for passenger coaches. I suppose these can be used on locos as well. However this requires that you cut off the original couplers. |
K-G / H0 and Z model train user |
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Joined: 05/02/2006(UTC)
Posts: 20
Location: , MI
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Thanks for reply. I think I found answer to my question in this thread: https://www.marklin-user...ault.aspx?g=posts&t=4491Assuming couplers are attached to lok bogie in a similar fashion, then yes I would have to cut couplers off. I was trying to do it in a way that would be "reversable". Anyway, I see it can be done, just a little more involved than I thought. |
Rydman
ETE Member#824
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 Joined: 16/08/2006(UTC) Posts: 5,382 Location: Akershus, Norway
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Hello everybody This is how I do it, as I like all my locomotives and cars to be close coupled. Not only for the shorter distance between the units, but also for less play in the pulling and pushing state of the couplings.  In the photo, from the left: 1- Original coupler to 3071, M* part no. 211 280. 2- Another coupling (for 3105? I do not remember) 3- The same coupling after modification with a coupling from 7205 4- A coupling from 7205 5- A coupler pocket, long type, M* part no. 363 950. Maybe it's better to use a short one, no. 288 390 I haven't tried (I will soon), but it should be possible to glue in a coupler pocket instead of the coupler itself, if it is space behind the pocket after installing it to the locomotive. On my 3171 there seems to be plenty of space. I allways buy new coupler before modification, to be able to convert back to the original condition, if I don't have any in my spare part box. Please notice the lenght difference in the original and the modified coupling. My excperience from test layouts indicates no problems with the couplings interfere with the bumpers in curves. I of course clean the surfaces very good before gluing, and I us the gel-type super glue. Cut the original coupling just in front of the "needle eyes", grind it smooth, glue in the cut close coupler (or pocket), finally bend the "eyes" to make a firm grip around the coupler. Be sure that you have a free movement of the moving parts on top of the coupler. But, a remark: 3170 was delivered originally with clouse couplers in set 2870 in 1989 and 1990. This should (maybe) be avalible as spare parts, if we only knew the number. |
Best regards Svein, Norway
grumpy old sod
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 Joined: 26/01/2006(UTC) Posts: 404 Location: vlaardingen,
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Joined: 16/08/2006(UTC) Posts: 5,382 Location: Akershus, Norway
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Hello
I have downloaded those pdf-files to my PC, but haven't examined them yet. I have seen them in Märklin Magazine, I think. |
Best regards Svein, Norway
grumpy old sod
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Joined: 16/08/2006(UTC) Posts: 5,382 Location: Akershus, Norway
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Hello Stew, and the rest of you I have changed the couplers on my 3171, so far only one end. The way I did it: Remove and disassemble the couplings (or use new ones, #211280, as I did). Cut off the front part of the coupler, as close to the "eyes" as possible. Grind and paint the bare matal.  Cut the "flat part" of a coupling pocket. I used long ones, #363950, as those were in my stock. Clean and glue the pocket to the coupler. I allways bend the eyes in and adjust the pocket before gluing. I fixed the front part of the pocket 1mm inside the end of the metal part. Sorry, my photo is a bit out of focus.  One old and one new coupler. As you see, it is not so big difference in the length.  This photo shows both ends from below. It's nothing wrong with your eyes, the center part of the locomotive is missing. One new and one old coupler.  The coupler height can be adjusted by bending the metal part slightly.  My small test inducates no interference with the bumpers in curves. |
Best regards Svein, Norway
grumpy old sod
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Joined: 26/01/2006(UTC) Posts: 404 Location: vlaardingen,
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Nice job.
Maybe I am wrong,but when looking at the last picture I think it is maybe better to glue the holder upside-down. It seems to me it then would be easier to get the correct height for the coupler.
Bart |
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Joined: 16/08/2006(UTC) Posts: 5,382 Location: Akershus, Norway
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Hi again, and thanks Bart. Bart, maybe you are right. I also remember to have seen coupler pockets where the "roof" was thinner than the "floor". In case of #363950, as I used, they are identical, 0,8mm. The two units in my photo (in my previous post) connected very well. Side wiev of partly inserted coupler. Notice the height offset in the coupler itself.  My attempt to make a close-up of the pocket seen from the front. Both the "roof" and the "floor" is 0,8mm thick.  I have meassured the height of the coupler pocket in the photo (in my previous post): 8,1mm, which is 0,4mm too low. The height should be 8,5 +/- 0,2mm. By adjusting just a little bit on the metal holder (the "S"-shaped part), or by grinding off just a little bit on the "roof", or by finding another pocket with a thinner "roof"? I also thought about cutting the roof off the pocket, just keep the walls and the floor, but then you might run into insulation problems with the current conducting coupler. |
Best regards Svein, Norway
grumpy old sod
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 Joined: 21/01/2004(UTC) Posts: 1,275
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Thank you for the great tip! I just did exactly what you did on my E32 18 (they have the same chassis as the swedish loco). I had the NEM pockets and couplers already lying around to do this but you convinced me to proceed with it. I did not even have to glue it as you did. If you bend them correctly the grip is firm enough so that the coupling in the nem pocket will release sooner than the pocket itself.
Bert
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