cleaning all the gears with SR24 and relubing them?

Those older loco's need some voltage before they start moving. The cleaner they are, the better they run. But it's really not the same as with the bell shape motors.

Did you also clean the wheels?

Firstly if the loco doesn't move with power applied. Keep power applied as brief as possible so you don't cook the motor (One reason air tools are so good. If they stall, no heat generated. Actually less in the system as a whole because the air compressor simply sees no drop in system air pressure to switch on compressor/s)

It sounds like you have done a full dewaxing (Marklin oiling BS benchmark!).


Apply power to the motor directly via the back ends of the brushes. If it moves (probably takes off & you lose contact), then it is a mechanical issue between the brushes & the wheels (take out the key cog/s so the motor can run freely & the loco will not move).

Slice & divide to narrow down to electrical or mechanical issue.

Hey Toosmall,

Thanks for replying. I made sure to turn the power off quickly, so the motor doesn t burn out. Too bad our trains are electric powered, I sure would love to see one on air pressure!
I did a full maintaince, since I bought a lot of locos that were standing for years (and most of them were glued up with marklin oil), so check on the dewaxing :-).

For now the loco is running like it should (I ll keep my fingers crossed it stays like this), after trying the brush push thing, it was the left one not doing what it should do (stupid of me for missing it). So I lessend the springs a bit and grinded the left brush a bit down (it had managed to wear down into some sort of spike, thus blocking the motor). She is now running around with 3 silver coin coaches, in an attempt to find out if she keeps working and to let the brush wear in correctly.



Hey Wheelflat,

Also thanks for replying! Like I wrote above I did the pressure thing (it really slipped my mind, silly me), thanks for bringing it up. It seems it was a combination of the pressure and how one of the brushes wore itself.

Those whiskers are sometimes a real pain in the ass... But those were thought of, nice catch btw.

They sure get warm, but this one beats all the rest of them with ease, maybe it has a tad more tolerance then the others, who knows? Is there a good way to know a motors age (like how do you know it s a 70 s motor or a more recent one?

Thanks,

Kristof

Hello Dwight,

Normally I check the pressure (it s a big one) and the brush from, but this time I forgot. In my experience it needs quite the heat before that happens, like a burning or close to burning out motor. Mostly opening and in the process stretching makes more of an issue in expanding your shell. I have learned through the time that a bit of insulation tape on the inside of a shell helps quite a lot when it gets to expanded to stick on well.

If you need any help by the time, just give a shout out, me and probably some more people will try to help you the best I/ we can. Here I clean the collectors and grooves too, it s really important to do so. I mostly put it in cleaning benzine, let it run for a while, until to collector is clean, take out the brushes, clean those to with washing benzine, place them back and let everything dry very well, after which it gets lubricated slightly. What happens is that the brushes do wear in to the collector, but sometimes due to the form of the little "arm" they are on, get a bit of pressure up or downwards, after which the wear out a bit above or under the collector. This sometimes interfears with starting or changing directions, I think due to uneven pressure or the brush slightly hitting/ getting stuck in the armature grooves. Bit hard to explain, but I hope you understand what I m trying to say?

I did, but I thought the motor wasn t produced anymore? I must admit when she runs, it doesn t really bother me, she isn t very loud (but honestly I don t really care about the noise in general), and she tends to run well, even at slower speeds. But if the motor is still out there, I would try it, I have some other locos waiting for the same conversion.

Which model loco are you talking about? I guess you already fully disassembled it after the fall to check everything? You made me cursious hahaha.

Everyone has been of help, so thank you very much. I just hope she keeps running (she did yesterday and today, so fingers crossed), and if she does, issue finally solved.

Kristof

I have had exactly this problem with an old 8878. In the end, I concluded (perhaps incorrectly) that the 3 pole motor had lost some of its magnetism. I know this can happen with some motors though I don't know for sure that these motors are affected. In the end I substituted for a new 5 pole motor although this did require a small amount of machining of the chassis.

Having said this, I have noticed that over tightening the bogie and chassis screws can cause some things to "stick" with this effect, so that might be something to check.

Cheers


Chris

Hello Dwight,

She appears to be a great runner, so I won t need to hurry to get one. She runs better then her sister too, and is still starting fine!

I have soft flooring where I work, it has the advantage of stuff not breaking, but also has the advantage of having no hair where you can loose tiny parts :-). Thanks for the tip! I have the 8811 and she is noisy, but mine has a 3 pole motor, yours has a 5 pole. What kind of louder new noise does she make? This should be solvable it seems.

Yes I have the same experience, knowledge here is really good and people don t mind sharing, making it a great community, I wouldn t be doing z "on my own"...

I love the lollo, she is a v160, but different, making it an excellent excuse for getting one :-).

In my experience this does nothing, mostly because the screw is next to the drivetrain. It does make it possible to have a bad circuit due to the screw being too loose, but that seems like a smaller chance.

Take good care too!



Hey Chris,

I never experienced the loss of magnetism, but it s easy to diagnose, if the loco doesn t start, but does pull a train, then it won t be the magnet, but something like the brushes or an different motor related issue. Do you have pictures of what you machined away, I m curious what has to be done and I m not really fond of machining parts away, partly due to the lack of experience. The bogie screw I never thought of, the one for the chassis screws I already know, thanks for the tip. Most of the time I turn until they won t go anymore, but with a loose hand, so it s not tight.

Best
Kristof

There's some information about the modification in this thread : https://www.marklin-user...-for-BR216--Marklin-8875

and here's a picture :


A colleague is an experienced model engineer and it took him not time to machine off the excess metal, but i don't think I'd like to attempt it myself!

Slackening off the bogie screw a bit can make a huge difference - one of my 88787s really benefitted from it!

Cheers


Chris