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Offline MarcelV  
#1 Posted : 13 November 2022 04:23:02(UTC)
MarcelV

United States   
Joined: 01/12/2018(UTC)
Posts: 49
Location: Louisville, Kentucky
First time I will convert a loc so hang in there with me. I have an old 3689 digital loc that has a 6080 decoder(?), is running but it’s not performing well at all. I never used a soldering station in my life so I decided to go with the 60760 kit as the motor is a DCM. If I break anything, it’s not an expensive lesson that way. I can always put a msd3 in at a later time when I know what I am doing.

All is on order and should arrive in the next two weeks (for some reason the Weller Soldering Station will take a few extra days to be delivered).

But here is my question and I couldn’t find an answer using the search function. The 3689 has LED lights and is connected to the current decoder. But there aren’t any resistors installed or connected. And it seems to be working. But I thought that you need resistors when using LED lighting with Marklin decoders. So, will I need to install those with the decoder included in the 60760 kit or don’t I need them? The manual for the msd3 is clear about it and states to use resistors when using LED. But the manual in the 60760 does not describe that at all. Does anyone know the answer for this. And out of curiosity, why aren’t they needed with the current decoder?

Thanks for the help!

Edited by user 17 November 2022 01:46:16(UTC)  | Reason: Not specified

Offline Bryan  
#2 Posted : 13 November 2022 08:21:30(UTC)
Bryan

Australia   
Joined: 08/09/2010(UTC)
Posts: 167
Location: Bowral, NSW, Australia
Yes, you need resisters on the lighting outputs. The standard 19V light voltage is for the original incandescent types.I usually use the resistors on the orange active supply to the leds. The value of the resister needs to be 1k to 1.5K depends on the brightness. The original decoder would have been set to the right voltage at CV level in the factory. Be sure to get the right polarity of the leds. The Weller workstation is a good soldering iron for excellent results, highly recommended.

best regards
David
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Offline MarcelV  
#3 Posted : 13 November 2022 11:39:29(UTC)
MarcelV

United States   
Joined: 01/12/2018(UTC)
Posts: 49
Location: Louisville, Kentucky
Thanks David for the fast reply. I will absolutely post more questions once I receive the decoder and run in trouble which I absolutely expect as a novice in both electronic components and soldering. I didn’t order the 60760 kit itself yet, and will just order 2 of them later today. The dealer has them in stock and they are fairly cheap. That way, if it would go very wrong and something starts smoking, I can give it another try… :) And I will order the resistors because haven’t done that either.
Offline kiwiAlan  
#4 Posted : 13 November 2022 14:21:35(UTC)
kiwiAlan

United Kingdom   
Joined: 23/07/2014(UTC)
Posts: 7,115
Location: ENGLAND, Didcot
Originally Posted by: MarcelV Go to Quoted Post
First time I will convert a loc so hang in there with me. I have an old 3689 digital loc that has a 6080 decoder(?), is running but it’s not performing well at all.
...
But here is my question and I couldn’t find an answer using the search function. The 3689 has LED lights and is connected to the current decoder. But there aren’t any resistors installed or connected.


A 36xx loco would have left the factory with a 6080 decoder, but if (as you state) it has LED lights then I would suggest you check the decoder hasn't been updated by someone. If it has factory fitted LED lights then the required resistors may well be on the LED circuit board.

As regards the current poor performance, have you been through and checked the motor cleanliness, condition of brushes and general lubrication of the drive train? You will need to check all this as fitting a new decoder will not fix a poor performing motor.

Originally Posted by: MarcelV Go to Quoted Post

I never used a soldering station in my life so I decided to go with the 60760 kit as the motor is a DCM. If I break anything, it’s not an expensive lesson that way. I can always put a msd3 in at a later time when I know what I am doing.


This is a sensible way to do it, you should get a significant performance change with the 60760 anyway.

As to soldering, I suggest you get some scrap pieces of wire and try stripping insulation and soldering it before attempting the decoder install. Even try soldering to the brush connections on the old motor brush plate with some scrap wire before you dismantle the motor to get the feel of how to hold things while soldering and that you have the iron at the right temperature to make a good joint without too much solder. practice makes perfect, it is not a black art. ThumpUp


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Offline MarcelV  
#5 Posted : 13 November 2022 15:34:40(UTC)
MarcelV

United States   
Joined: 01/12/2018(UTC)
Posts: 49
Location: Louisville, Kentucky
Originally Posted by: kiwiAlan Go to Quoted Post
As to soldering, I suggest you get some scrap pieces of wire and try stripping insulation and soldering it before attempting the decoder install. Even try soldering to the brush connections on the old motor brush plate with some scrap wire before you dismantle the motor to get the feel of how to hold things while soldering and that you have the iron at the right temperature to make a good joint without too much solder. practice makes perfect, it is not a black art.

That’s an excellent suggestion. Thanks for the tip!
Offline MarcelV  
#6 Posted : 13 November 2022 16:38:47(UTC)
MarcelV

United States   
Joined: 01/12/2018(UTC)
Posts: 49
Location: Louisville, Kentucky
Originally Posted by: kiwiAlan Go to Quoted Post
A 36xx loco would have left the factory with a 6080 decoder, but if (as you state) it has LED lights then I would suggest you check the decoder hasn't been updated by someone. If it has factory fitted LED lights then the required resistors may well be on the LED circuit board.

Just checked that. See the pics (sorry for the one blurry one.
E18870CB-23C0-4E85-85A5-421E4ABBD524.jpeg18787F97-7D7A-4EBC-BCA5-11A0C656A151.jpeg
They are led’s indeed. But now I have an issue. The lights don’t work anymore when I put it back together. Fun project for a cold Sunday afternoon. I assume that the contacts don’t touch the frame contacts anymore. But just a guess. Any suggestion on how to test that easily before I put it all together again? First a cup of coffee though before I start looking at this.
Offline kiwiAlan  
#7 Posted : 13 November 2022 16:50:25(UTC)
kiwiAlan

United Kingdom   
Joined: 23/07/2014(UTC)
Posts: 7,115
Location: ENGLAND, Didcot
Originally Posted by: MarcelV Go to Quoted Post
Originally Posted by: kiwiAlan Go to Quoted Post
If it has factory fitted LED lights then the required resistors may well be on the LED circuit board.

Just checked that. See the pics (sorry for the one blurry one.
...
They are led’s indeed.


Yes, those are definitely LEDs. I suspect that they may be what I would term '12V LEDs' that have an internal current limit resistor. This may well be why the solder blobs on the back of the PCB exist, it is hard to tell because it is blurry, but I think they are jumpering pads where SMD resistors could be mounted.

Offline H0  
#8 Posted : 13 November 2022 19:53:21(UTC)
H0


Joined: 16/02/2004(UTC)
Posts: 14,706
Location: DE-NW
Originally Posted by: Bryan Go to Quoted Post
The original decoder would have been set to the right voltage at CV level in the factory.
No. There are no CVs with the original 6080 decoder.
With modern decoders, there are no CVs that reduce the voltage and a resistor is alwys needed for LEDs.



Regards
Tom
---
"In all of the gauges, we particularly emphasize a high level of quality, the best possible fidelity to the prototype, and absolute precision. You will see that in all of our products." (from Märklin New Items Brochure 2015, page 1) ROFLBTCUTS
UserPostedImage
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Offline Ross  
#9 Posted : 13 November 2022 21:17:58(UTC)
Ross

Australia   
Joined: 25/09/2006(UTC)
Posts: 831
Location: Sydney, NSW
Hi Marcel/All,

I have added extra LED lights to the loco and replaced the yellow LEDs for white LEDs see my article below which will help you. The original LEDs do have resistors you just need to locate them and my article will again help you.

3689 LED Upgrade

Hope the info helps.
Ross
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Offline MarcelV  
#10 Posted : 13 November 2022 21:26:51(UTC)
MarcelV

United States   
Joined: 01/12/2018(UTC)
Posts: 49
Location: Louisville, Kentucky
Originally Posted by: Ross Go to Quoted Post
I have added extra LED lights to the loco and replaced the yellow LEDs for white LEDs see my article below which will help you. The original LEDs do have resistors you just need to locate them and my article will again help you.

Thank you so much. Will look at this later today but any help is appreciated. ‘Dangerous’ steps in a whole new world for me…. :)
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Offline Bryan  
#11 Posted : 13 November 2022 22:04:15(UTC)
Bryan

Australia   
Joined: 08/09/2010(UTC)
Posts: 167
Location: Bowral, NSW, Australia
I stand corrected on how the decoders limit the voltage for LEDs. The Leiterplattes the decoders plug into with 21MTC system always have SMD resistors. This is where the tailoring of the outputs does happen.
With regards to the 60760 it does though only have 4 programmable addresses. It is a basic decoder, non MFX and at a very good price.
Marklin always marketed 60760 as a limited edition decoder. It must be one of the longest limited edition Marklin products ever made. I expect it sells so well they do not have the heart to discontinue it.

Regards
david

Edited by user 14 November 2022 03:01:30(UTC)  | Reason: Not specified

Offline JohnjeanB  
#12 Posted : 13 November 2022 22:05:37(UTC)
JohnjeanB

France   
Joined: 04/02/2011(UTC)
Posts: 2,287
Location: Paris, France
Hi
Originally Posted by: H0 Go to Quoted Post
Originally Posted by: Bryan Go to Quoted Post
The original decoder would have been set to the right voltage at CV level in the factory.
No. There are no CVs with the original 6080 decoder.
With modern decoders, there are no CVs that reduce the voltage and a resistor is alwys needed for LEDs.




Not only this but it is better to avoid using the "dimming" factor by selecting the appropriate resistor (at least on Märklin's mLD3 and mSD3. Why? because using the dimming seems OK but when taking videos, you can see the blinking. Not very nice.
It is nice to order a nice assortment of 1/4 W resistors with different values. Cost almost nothing. Values 560 Ohm, 1 kOhm, 1.5 Ohm, 2.7 kOhm, 5.6 kOhm
Because of the improved LEDs efficiency I use more and more 5.6 Ohm and larger.

Cheers

Jean

My layout videos
latest vid
marshalling yard
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Offline JohnjeanB  
#13 Posted : 13 November 2022 22:10:40(UTC)
JohnjeanB

France   
Joined: 04/02/2011(UTC)
Posts: 2,287
Location: Paris, France
Hi David
Originally Posted by: Bryan Go to Quoted Post
Marklin always marketed 60760 as a limited edition decoder

I have a different memory of Märklin providing an inexpensive, simple solution for analog locos (Which are millions in Germany).
They don't have all the gimmicks of recent decoders but they work well, provide load regulation but yes: No dimming, no blinking, no many hardware outputs, no programmable accel curve, etc, etc.
Cheers
Jean

My layout videos
latest vid
marshalling yard
Offline kiwiAlan  
#14 Posted : 14 November 2022 14:37:38(UTC)
kiwiAlan

United Kingdom   
Joined: 23/07/2014(UTC)
Posts: 7,115
Location: ENGLAND, Didcot
Originally Posted by: Bryan Go to Quoted Post

With regards to the 60760 it does though only have 4 programmable addresses.


Umm, I think you are quite wrong here. It can have any of 255 addresses.

Addresses above 80 are not usable on a 6020 or 6021. Not sure about a cs1 or ms1, but they can definitely be used on an ms2 or cs2.

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H0
Offline H0  
#15 Posted : 14 November 2022 14:48:51(UTC)
H0


Joined: 16/02/2004(UTC)
Posts: 14,706
Location: DE-NW
Originally Posted by: kiwiAlan Go to Quoted Post
Not sure about a cs1 or ms1, but they can definitely be used on an ms2 or cs2.
CS1 can go up to 255, but MS1 is limited to 80.

Regards
Tom
---
"In all of the gauges, we particularly emphasize a high level of quality, the best possible fidelity to the prototype, and absolute precision. You will see that in all of our products." (from Märklin New Items Brochure 2015, page 1) ROFLBTCUTS
UserPostedImage
Offline H0  
#16 Posted : 14 November 2022 14:53:14(UTC)
H0


Joined: 16/02/2004(UTC)
Posts: 14,706
Location: DE-NW
Originally Posted by: JohnjeanB Go to Quoted Post
Because of the improved LEDs efficiency I use more and more 5.6k Ohm and larger.
In my experience you can take 10 kOhm or 15 kOhm with the modern high-efficiency warm-white LEDs, even with three LEDs in series. And then I sometimes still dim them down a bit.
I admit I don't take many videos.

Regards
Tom
---
"In all of the gauges, we particularly emphasize a high level of quality, the best possible fidelity to the prototype, and absolute precision. You will see that in all of our products." (from Märklin New Items Brochure 2015, page 1) ROFLBTCUTS
UserPostedImage
Offline JohnjeanB  
#17 Posted : 14 November 2022 16:15:42(UTC)
JohnjeanB

France   
Joined: 04/02/2011(UTC)
Posts: 2,287
Location: Paris, France
Originally Posted by: H0 Go to Quoted Post
CS1 can go up to 255, but MS1 is limited to 80.

Hi
Sorry to say this is incorrect. The MS1 could go up to 255
I purchased a starter set 29750 that includes a MS1 and a BR 212 "Feuerwehr".
Its factory address is 112.
Agreed the MS1 is quite spartan (very simple, almost stupid)
Cheers
Jean

My layout videos
latest vid
marshalling yard
Offline H0  
#18 Posted : 14 November 2022 16:26:04(UTC)
H0


Joined: 16/02/2004(UTC)
Posts: 14,706
Location: DE-NW
Originally Posted by: JohnjeanB Go to Quoted Post
Sorry to say this is incorrect. The MS1 could go up to 255
I purchased a starter set 29750 that includes a MS1 and a BR 212 "Feuerwehr".
Its factory address is 112.
That must have been a very special MS1 for a very special starter set.
According to a PDF published by Märklin the default address for 29750 is 12.

From the 60760 manual:
Quote:
Adresse • Address • Adresse • Adres •
Código • Indrizzo • Adress • Adresse 01 01 - (80)*255 [...]
* () Control Unit 6021/Mobile Station 60651/60652

So even Märklin write that the MS1 is limited to 80 addresses.

Please let Märklin know that their manuals are incorrect.
Regards
Tom
---
"In all of the gauges, we particularly emphasize a high level of quality, the best possible fidelity to the prototype, and absolute precision. You will see that in all of our products." (from Märklin New Items Brochure 2015, page 1) ROFLBTCUTS
UserPostedImage
Offline JohnjeanB  
#19 Posted : 14 November 2022 16:54:25(UTC)
JohnjeanB

France   
Joined: 04/02/2011(UTC)
Posts: 2,287
Location: Paris, France
Originally Posted by: H0 Go to Quoted Post
That must have been a very special MS1 for a very special starter set.
According to a PDF published by Märklin the default address for 29750 is 12.

So I have one of these sets but I don't know what's the factory address is.
When you are reasonably intelligent, you must understand and accept that sometimes you may NOT be right
Jean

My layout videos
latest vid
marshalling yard
Offline H0  
#20 Posted : 14 November 2022 17:16:16(UTC)
H0


Joined: 16/02/2004(UTC)
Posts: 14,706
Location: DE-NW
Originally Posted by: JohnjeanB Go to Quoted Post
When you are reasonably intelligent, you must understand and accept that sometimes you may NOT be right
Sometimes I'm wrong. I admit when I'm wrong.

I always change the addresses of my locos to the range 1 through 80 before attending club meetings where we still use the MS1.

Regards
Tom
---
"In all of the gauges, we particularly emphasize a high level of quality, the best possible fidelity to the prototype, and absolute precision. You will see that in all of our products." (from Märklin New Items Brochure 2015, page 1) ROFLBTCUTS
UserPostedImage
Offline MarcelV  
#21 Posted : 14 November 2022 22:56:45(UTC)
MarcelV

United States   
Joined: 01/12/2018(UTC)
Posts: 49
Location: Louisville, Kentucky
Originally Posted by: JohnjeanB Go to Quoted Post
It is nice to order a nice assortment of 1/4 W resistors with different values. Cost almost nothing. Values 560 Ohm, 1 kOhm, 1.5 Ohm, 2.7 kOhm, 5.6 kOhm
Because of the improved LEDs efficiency I use more and more 5.6 Ohm and larger.

Thanks for this info. I ordered a few 1k2 ohm resistors so I can start when all is received but wasn’t sure about the wattage. I know higher wattage doesn’t do any harm but they are just larger in size, taking up more space. Plenty of that in this loc that I will be converting But now I can order a whole series of them at once for later use and use them accordingly. The only other thing I am curious about is shrink tubing? No idea what size I should buy. They seem to come in all kind of form factors.but can’t figure out which ones are the correct size.
Offline JohnjeanB  
#22 Posted : 14 November 2022 23:33:38(UTC)
JohnjeanB

France   
Joined: 04/02/2011(UTC)
Posts: 2,287
Location: Paris, France
Originally Posted by: MarcelV Go to Quoted Post
I know higher wattage doesn’t do any harm but they are just larger in size, taking up more space.

Hi Marcel
More and more I use less than 1/4 watt resistors because sometimes there is simply no space.
One example: this BR 98 with a very small cabin that host the motor, the weight, the gears, the decoder, the reistors, the loudspeaker and 2 bi-color LEDs

So it was very cramped


Here is another example of small space in a "Begleitwagen" to add interior lighting and rear red lights
Begleitwagen.png
In this example
- circled in green the SMC full wave rectifier
- circled in red: the red LEDs
- circled in pink: the huge 1/4 W resistor
So I am starting to use surface mounted resistors
Cheers
Jean
My layout videos
latest vid
marshalling yard
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Offline MarcelV  
#23 Posted : 17 November 2022 01:54:06(UTC)
MarcelV

United States   
Joined: 01/12/2018(UTC)
Posts: 49
Location: Louisville, Kentucky
Except for the soldering station, it’s on its way to be delivered in the next few days, I received everything including 2 of the 60760 kits. Opened one of the kits, became familiar with it, tried to make sense of all the cables, put the motor already together and how I will go about connecting them but one I can’t seem to be able to answer. In the manual it says to connect the brown wire, which is ground. But it doesn’t tell me where. I watched some YouTube videos but couldn’t find an easy to follow step by step one. There were some good ones out there and I get all the other cables but this one, I can’t place. Do I ground it on the motor or on the frame that is carrying the body? The old decoder consists of two parts, one part is driving the lighting and the motor and the other one is housing the keyboard to set the addressing. There is only one brown cable but it’s only between the 2 pcb’s so I am at a loss here.

Does anyone know the answer? Thanks for the help!!!
Offline Ross  
#24 Posted : 17 November 2022 04:57:57(UTC)
Ross

Australia   
Joined: 25/09/2006(UTC)
Posts: 831
Location: Sydney, NSW
Hi Marcel,

Look at page 2 of my document you will see diagram and photo re the Gnd/masse.

Ross
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Offline Donb  
#25 Posted : 17 November 2022 07:17:27(UTC)
Donb

Canada   
Joined: 03/04/2013(UTC)
Posts: 257
Location: Fraser Valley
Originally Posted by: H0 Go to Quoted Post
Originally Posted by: JohnjeanB Go to Quoted Post
Sorry to say this is incorrect. The MS1 could go up to 255
I purchased a starter set 29750 that includes a MS1 and a BR 212 "Feuerwehr".
Its factory address is 112.
That must have been a very special MS1 for a very special starter set.
According to a PDF published by Märklin the default address for 29750 is 12.

From the 60760 manual:
Quote:
Adresse • Address • Adresse • Adres •
Código • Indrizzo • Adress • Adresse 01 01 - (80)*255 [...]
* () Control Unit 6021/Mobile Station 60651/60652

So even Märklin write that the MS1 is limited to 80 addresses.

Please let Märklin know that their manuals are incorrect.


The 60651 is the MS1, I had forgotten that too.
The MS1 came in two versions, the 60651 (1 Gauge and HO 1.9A) and 60652 (HO starter sets 1.2A )
I have the 60652 MS1.
Best Regards,
Don
___________________________________________________________________________________
Viessmann Commander, ECoS 50210 , C track and Z scale
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H0
Offline H0  
#26 Posted : 17 November 2022 08:31:48(UTC)
H0


Joined: 16/02/2004(UTC)
Posts: 14,706
Location: DE-NW
Originally Posted by: Donb Go to Quoted Post
The 60651 is the MS1, I had forgotten that too.
The MS1 came in two versions, the 60651 (1 Gauge and HO 1.9A) and 60652 (HO starter sets 1.2A )
I have the 60652 MS1.
It is even funnier: The 60652 has "60651" embossed on the case IIRC.
Later 60652 had 1.9 A. AFAIK the only way to tell a 1.2 A version from a 1.9 A version is looking at the INFO menu.

Regards
Tom
---
"In all of the gauges, we particularly emphasize a high level of quality, the best possible fidelity to the prototype, and absolute precision. You will see that in all of our products." (from Märklin New Items Brochure 2015, page 1) ROFLBTCUTS
UserPostedImage
Offline MarcelV  
#27 Posted : 17 November 2022 20:07:15(UTC)
MarcelV

United States   
Joined: 01/12/2018(UTC)
Posts: 49
Location: Louisville, Kentucky
Originally Posted by: Ross Go to Quoted Post
Look at page 2 of my document you will see diagram and photo re the Gnd/masse.
Hi Ross, I looked at your document and also browsed around on you website btw. But it didn’t resolve my confusion. Mostly because you documented an LED upgrade and replacement. To me, it looks like you kept the interconnection PCB in place. Am I looking at the wrong document or do I misunderstand the diagram? Completely possible because I am really new when it comes to electronics. I am pretty sure over time it will get better. But I am replacing the decoder with the one in the 60760 kit. If I read your diagram, to me it looks like the brown cable you have going to the interconnection PCB. But my understanding is that I can just remove that one. Or do I need to keep it and use it in the loc? If so, what is its purpose? Couldn’t I just put resistors in the lines going to the front and back led’s instead and just get rid of that board? Any clarification is appreciated and thanks for having patience with me. I know this is probably all class 101 stuff for a lot of you. But I struggle with 101 basics at this time.
Offline Ross  
#28 Posted : 17 November 2022 21:29:34(UTC)
Ross

Australia   
Joined: 25/09/2006(UTC)
Posts: 831
Location: Sydney, NSW
Hi Marcel,

This thread is confusing as it seems some people are talking about other things than the 3689 motor upgrade.

To answer your questions you need /should keep the interconnection board as it allows switching between catenary and track power. It is also the place where all the wires can be terminated easily. The two original resistors are required for the front and rear lights.


On page 2 the photo showing the interconnection PCB there are two mounting screws this is chassis Gnd/masse. The solder pad next to the top screw is the Gnd/masse pad, on this pad there are two Gnd wires, one to the decoder and the other goes to the bottom right screw of the brush plate black wire seen page 6 bottom photo, zoom in to take a closer look. If you look at the wiring diagram on page 6 you will see I have change the Gnd wire to brown which is the Marklin colour.

On page 2 the black Gnd dotted wire must be removed between the pads to eliminate digital flicker and the blue +Plus wire (ESU colour) is connected as shown. In your case using the Marklin decoder it will be the orange plus wire. This dotted wire must be removed or you will destroy the decoder. The +Plus common and Gnd/masse must never be connected

Opinion Time: Get a better decoder. ESU LP5.0 are very good. The Marklin 60760 decoder are very poor for operation.

Advice: Find someone close to you who has a knowledge of wiring who can help you with your first decoder upgrade.
Ross
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Offline MarcelV  
#29 Posted : 17 November 2022 22:34:55(UTC)
MarcelV

United States   
Joined: 01/12/2018(UTC)
Posts: 49
Location: Louisville, Kentucky
Thanks so much for this explanation, Ross. This will help tremendously, I chose the 60760 because for one, it will give me the correct motor and two, it is really inexpensive. So, if I burn a decoder, it’s not the end of the world. And it keeps the color scheme easy for me because I can just follow the Marklin colors without having to translate color scheme’s. After I know what I am doing and not burning through decoders, I plan to replace the one from this kit with an mld3 or msd3 (adding sound) or maybe a lokpilot one. I know that the characteristics on this decoder aren’t that good but I am more concerned about just getting it to run at this time. Then add in the lighting, meanwhile learn the soldering. Taking small steps…. :)
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Offline BenP  
#30 Posted : 18 November 2022 05:28:59(UTC)
BenP

United States   
Joined: 04/02/2021(UTC)
Posts: 182
Location: Michigan, Ann Arbor
Originally Posted by: MarcelV Go to Quoted Post
Thanks so much for this explanation, Ross. This will help tremendously, I chose the 60760 because for one, it will give me the correct motor and two, it is really inexpensive. So, if I burn a decoder, it’s not the end of the world. And it keeps the color scheme easy for me because I can just follow the Marklin colors without having to translate color scheme’s. After I know what I am doing and not burning through decoders, I plan to replace the one from this kit with an mld3 or msd3 (adding sound) or maybe a lokpilot one. I know that the characteristics on this decoder aren’t that good but I am more concerned about just getting it to run at this time. Then add in the lighting, meanwhile learn the soldering. Taking small steps…. :)



The kit is a great start, though the decoder is not lasting for me. Lost 3 already. Should have gone with DC motor upgrade and more robust lokpilot5 (and 18V-ready tube LEDs), but that is hindsight.
Digital M track layout with mostly vintage rolling stock and accessories, and small Z scale layout.
https://youtube.com/play...0kgVYbh0CeDTF-bYXoD_2-V9
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