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Offline dominator  
#1 Posted : 18 May 2021 11:24:21(UTC)
dominator

New Zealand   
Joined: 20/01/2015(UTC)
Posts: 960
Location: Kerikeri
i wonder if anyone has access to instructions for this car set. It is a very nice looking set.

Also, the coaches get rather warm after a couple of minutes running with the lights on. What bulbs do they have in them.

IMG_20210518_212054.jpg set up on my test/work table

Many thanks

Dereck
Northland. NZ REMEMBER 0228 for ä
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Offline Alsterstreek  
#2 Posted : 18 May 2021 12:42:37(UTC)
Alsterstreek

Portugal   
Joined: 16/11/2011(UTC)
Posts: 5,121
Location: Southwesternmost
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Offline kiwiAlan  
#3 Posted : 18 May 2021 13:04:32(UTC)
kiwiAlan

United Kingdom   
Joined: 23/07/2014(UTC)
Posts: 6,154
Location: ENGLAND, Didcot
Originally Posted by: dominator Go to Quoted Post

Also, the coaches get rather warm after a couple of minutes running with the lights on. What bulbs do they have in them.


You are running it on a digital controller, I wonder if they have analogue voltage bulbs in them?

it would be worth opening one to see what bulbs are used.

If it has the two pin bulbs then the digital bulb is E6100080.

Offline dominator  
#4 Posted : 18 May 2021 20:55:41(UTC)
dominator

New Zealand   
Joined: 20/01/2015(UTC)
Posts: 960
Location: Kerikeri
Thanks Alsterstreek and Alan. The consist was first sold in 2000 so I was wondering if it had LED's or bulbs.

These things are a bit tricky to get apart. I have removed the end diaphragms from one of the coaches but the ends still seem to not want to come away from the body. Looking at the instructions again it seems a screw driver is needed to push in the end lugs. That worked. Easy Peasy.

Now whats inside. IMG_20210519_065431.jpg
Looks like some sort of LED strip. Not sure about getting that apart to see whats inside although the instructions suggest it lifts out.
I haven't used the permanent close couplers but fitted regular current conducting couplers to make it easier to remove from the track is necessary. They seem to cause the occasional interruption in current though that I have experienced with other coaches.
Northland. NZ REMEMBER 0228 for ä
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Offline kiwiAlan  
#5 Posted : 18 May 2021 21:55:54(UTC)
kiwiAlan

United Kingdom   
Joined: 23/07/2014(UTC)
Posts: 6,154
Location: ENGLAND, Didcot
Originally Posted by: dominator Go to Quoted Post

Looks like some sort of LED strip. Not sure about getting that apart to see whats inside although the instructions suggest it lifts out.
I haven't used the permanent close couplers but fitted regular current conducting couplers to make it easier to remove from the track is necessary. They seem to cause the occasional interruption in current though that I have experienced with other coaches.


I think that has light bulbs. It looks very similar to the 73155 strips I have just been installing, a pair of bulbs soldered to a PCB, with a full length molded acylic diffuser to spread the light the length of the coach. Inside the diffuser there will be a piece of metal over each bulb to stop a bright spot immediately under the bulb and force it to distribute along the diffuser.

The other clue is you describe it as getting hot - if it has LEDs it wouldn't get that hot that the coach gets warm.

Offline dominator  
#6 Posted : 18 May 2021 22:42:27(UTC)
dominator

New Zealand   
Joined: 20/01/2015(UTC)
Posts: 960
Location: Kerikeri
I just tested it on the analogue circuit and it still gets rather warm. Much the same. hmm. Plastic bodies. !!!!!! I think you are correct Alan. Must be bulbs.
Northland. NZ REMEMBER 0228 for ä
Offline Ross  
#7 Posted : 20 May 2021 04:39:12(UTC)
Ross

Australia   
Joined: 25/09/2006(UTC)
Posts: 781
Location: Sydney, NSW
Hi Dereck/All,

I have put LED lights in similar coaches using the same type of lighting PCBs that you have.

Have a look at my article below which may give you some ideas on how to convert your coaches.

2660 and 4261 LED Lighting



Originally Posted by: dominator Go to Quoted Post
I just tested it on the analogue circuit and it still gets rather warm. Much the same. hmm. Plastic bodies. !!!!!! I think you are correct Alan. Must be bulbs.


Ross
Offline dominator  
#8 Posted : 20 May 2021 09:22:03(UTC)
dominator

New Zealand   
Joined: 20/01/2015(UTC)
Posts: 960
Location: Kerikeri
Hi Ross. Thanks for that. Thats something I can do. My only trouble just now is how to get the diffuser assy away from the coach. It seems very tight, yet it does look very similar to the one you show in your link http://members.ozemail.c...1_with_LED_lighting.pdf. I would appreciate a hint on how you got yours apart before i break it.

Dereck
Northland. NZ REMEMBER 0228 for ä
Offline Ross  
#9 Posted : 21 May 2021 00:47:59(UTC)
Ross

Australia   
Joined: 25/09/2006(UTC)
Posts: 781
Location: Sydney, NSW
Hi Dereck,

The light unit can be pulled off the electrical supply support and yes it can be very tight, just take care and ease both ends up a little at a time. It's like a plug and socket arrangement with the socket being attached to the PCB. When you remove the PCB you will notice that the electrical support has a split at the top just like the Marklin plugs.

In the Orient Express article below look at pages 10-11 and you will see the support we are talking about.

42755_42760_orient_express_LED_light_upgrade

Hope this helps.


Originally Posted by: dominator Go to Quoted Post
Hi Ross. Thanks for that. Thats something I can do. My only trouble just now is how to get the diffuser assy away from the coach. It seems very tight, yet it does look very similar to the one you show in your link http://members.ozemail.c...1_with_LED_lighting.pdf. I would appreciate a hint on how you got yours apart before i break it.

Dereck


Ross
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Offline dominator  
#10 Posted : 21 May 2021 08:06:38(UTC)
dominator

New Zealand   
Joined: 20/01/2015(UTC)
Posts: 960
Location: Kerikeri
All done. I fitted 2 x 2 mm tower LED's I had plenty off. Powered through a micro bridge rectifier and 1 resister. And in parallel with the +ve and -ve I have placed 5 x 10 uf, 50 v capacitors [ lying along the corridor so they cant be seen ]to help prevent flickering.

I usually find I have to use 2 x 1000 uf capacitors to eliminate flickering so in this case, not enough to do the job.

They are a wee bit brighter than the originals and because they are facing tot he ends of the coach, don't light up the middle ans much just like the original bulbs. They don't heat up either which was the reason for this exercise.

IMG_20210521_175447.jpg

IMG_20210521_175514.jpg

The little rectangular black object is the Bridge rectifier. It can drive a 6 coach train with 6-9 LED's in each coach. Now days I fit one in each coach. It has been done because I am able to run them on digital or analogue. All components I use are able to withstand 50 v which is because the rectified output of my most powerful blue transformer puts out 38 v DC

It looks possible to add another LED over that hole on the middle of the the pcb. Maybe.

IMG_20210521_192927.jpg
LED conversion next to std coach

IMG_20210521_192939.jpg
Close up of led conversion

IMG_20210521_192953.jpg
Led conversion with body sitting in place
Northland. NZ REMEMBER 0228 for ä
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