Welcome to the forum   
Welcome Guest! To enable all features please Login or Register.

Notification

Icon
Error

Share
Options
View
Go to last post in this topic Go to first unread post in this topic
Offline Big AL  
#1 Posted : 16 November 2020 01:26:45(UTC)
Big AL

United Kingdom   
Joined: 25/10/2020(UTC)
Posts: 55
Location: Scotland, Glasgow
Started CAD modelling, still to finish the sides and the roof. I made a partially successful test print. I had partial bed adhesion.

Those handrail details (0.1mm) either side of the cab doors actually print on my Photon, however they are so small I fear paint will obscure them.

I split the Rokuhan SA-001 chassis so I could achieve the correct scale dimensions and proportions

Untitled.png

More CAD to do tomorrow, but I have been at it all day and I am going cross eyed. I think I will kick back, watch Space X Crew-1 launch while having some sipping whisky.
thanks 5 users liked this useful post by Big AL
Offline robfl  
#2 Posted : 16 November 2020 22:42:38(UTC)
robfl

United Kingdom   
Joined: 11/10/2020(UTC)
Posts: 13
Location: England, Warwickshire
Hi AL,
That looks interesting, very detailed.
How did you split the Rokuhan SA-001 chassis? Any pics. Does the chassis run on Marklin track and what voltage does it use.

Rob :)
Offline danmarklinman  
#3 Posted : 16 November 2020 23:10:26(UTC)
danmarklinman

United Kingdom   
Joined: 18/10/2012(UTC)
Posts: 1,264
This for Z?
Marklin and Piko era 4 SNCB , Marklin wagons
Wiking model car Fan
Faller fan including car system
Instagram: marklin1978
Wiking fan
Offline Big AL  
#4 Posted : 17 November 2020 00:37:03(UTC)
Big AL

United Kingdom   
Joined: 25/10/2020(UTC)
Posts: 55
Location: Scotland, Glasgow
IMG_0486.JPEG

The third print came out beautifully although it is very hard to tell from this potato quality image. White resin also obscures surface detail in photos because it turns into a white blur.

You will have to take my word for it the model came out perfectly. Every detail you see in the CAD model is represented in surface detail. The white dusty reside is from the evaporated Isopropanol but this has been cleaned off after this photo was taken earlier.

In this photo you can see a split and an unsplit Rokuhan chassis.

I have marked the split line in red. I also removed the top cover on the Rokuhan chassis.

It is Z Scale and it is correctly scaled and proportioned. The finished model is 62 mm in length, buffer to buffer. Each one of those squares on my cutting mat is 10mm

It ran pretty good on a bit of Marklin test track with a Maplins 9V PP9 battery until I broke the fine bare copper wire taking the chassis back out without paying due attention. I will replace those wires with some insulated wire later.

I have also designed a fuel tank that goes between the split bogeys which will reunite both parts of the chassis but I have not yet printed this.

I am very happy and it should paint up really well.
thanks 4 users liked this useful post by Big AL
Offline Big AL  
#5 Posted : 17 November 2020 00:40:45(UTC)
Big AL

United Kingdom   
Joined: 25/10/2020(UTC)
Posts: 55
Location: Scotland, Glasgow
This is the finished CAD model and fuel tank as a separate piece.

Untitled.png
thanks 4 users liked this useful post by Big AL
Offline DaleSchultz  
#6 Posted : 17 November 2020 01:18:33(UTC)
DaleSchultz

United States   
Joined: 10/02/2006(UTC)
Posts: 3,807
looks excellent! What CAD software are you using?
That is a lot of work!
Dale
Intellibox + own software, K-Track
My current layout: https://cabin-layout.mixmox.com
Arrival and Departure signs: https://remotesign.mixmox.com
thanks 1 user liked this useful post by DaleSchultz
Offline Big AL  
#7 Posted : 17 November 2020 01:24:20(UTC)
Big AL

United Kingdom   
Joined: 25/10/2020(UTC)
Posts: 55
Location: Scotland, Glasgow
Thanks Dale, using Autodesk Fusion 360 for stuff like this, but I also use Blender and Meshmixer for other types of projects. It's about 8 hours of work so far just for the CAD.

Often I will do the hard surface modelling in Fusion 360, then export to Blender, remesh the tris to quads and do some sculpting or other detail that is not hard surface per se.
thanks 1 user liked this useful post by Big AL
Offline robfl  
#8 Posted : 17 November 2020 23:11:14(UTC)
robfl

United Kingdom   
Joined: 11/10/2020(UTC)
Posts: 13
Location: England, Warwickshire
The printed body looks very good (I blew up the pic for a closer look). The tricky bit for me, would be painting it well, perhaps a simple design would work best.

Thanks for the pics of the Rokuhan chassis. The motor is surprisingly big, compared to a Marklin motor. I may get one myself, as I would like to have a shunter loco, but they are so expensive even secondhand on ebay. It would have to have a wooden body though, as I don't have a 3D printer. I'm pretty good with wood though :)
thanks 1 user liked this useful post by robfl
Offline Big AL  
#9 Posted : 18 November 2020 01:37:02(UTC)
Big AL

United Kingdom   
Joined: 25/10/2020(UTC)
Posts: 55
Location: Scotland, Glasgow
You don't need your own printer, you could upload the model to Shapeways or another 3D printing service and have it printed and delivered to your doorstep. I priced the Class20 Shorty I also designed and I think it was less than a tenner to print in plastic or about 40 quid to print in brass if I recall correctly. I have publicly shared that model on Thingiverse where it can be downloaded for free. It clips onto the Rokuhan chassis without any modification at all. I painted mine with a Tamiya rattle can and it came out really good.

https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4647674



thanks 1 user liked this useful post by Big AL
Offline Big AL  
#10 Posted : 18 November 2020 14:33:01(UTC)
Big AL

United Kingdom   
Joined: 25/10/2020(UTC)
Posts: 55
Location: Scotland, Glasgow
Painting begins...

IMG_0496.JPEG

The little numbers are just laser printed on regular copy paper. Cut and applied to the model with some ModPodge on the end of a cocktail stick.

I might use this method for the other "decals" as this gives me the ability to print white.
thanks 4 users liked this useful post by Big AL
Offline robfl  
#11 Posted : 18 November 2020 23:28:24(UTC)
robfl

United Kingdom   
Joined: 11/10/2020(UTC)
Posts: 13
Location: England, Warwickshire
Thanks AL,
I didn't know you could get things 3D printed, I will have a go in wood, or possibly card, if that fails I might try your model.
thanks 1 user liked this useful post by robfl
Offline Big AL  
#12 Posted : 19 November 2020 00:16:45(UTC)
Big AL

United Kingdom   
Joined: 25/10/2020(UTC)
Posts: 55
Location: Scotland, Glasgow
Shaky hand painting complete

IMG_0501.JPEG
thanks 6 users liked this useful post by Big AL
Offline Poor Skeleton  
#13 Posted : 09 December 2020 19:07:17(UTC)
Poor Skeleton

United Kingdom   
Joined: 09/10/2015(UTC)
Posts: 359
Location: England, Cambridge
Originally Posted by: Big AL Go to Quoted Post
Shaky hand painting complete

IMG_0501.JPEG


Can you tell me which way up this was printed - i.e. in relation to the printer platter?

Cheers


Chris
Offline Big AL  
#14 Posted : 09 December 2020 23:09:46(UTC)
Big AL

United Kingdom   
Joined: 25/10/2020(UTC)
Posts: 55
Location: Scotland, Glasgow
Originally Posted by: Poor Skeleton Go to Quoted Post


Can you tell me which way up this was printed - i.e. in relation to the printer platter?

Cheers


Chris


Hi Chris, Roof upward so that the print supports are inside. In other words, right way up.

Has Santa come early or are you asking your mate to print it?

All the best, Al.

Offline Poor Skeleton  
#15 Posted : 10 December 2020 21:45:35(UTC)
Poor Skeleton

United Kingdom   
Joined: 09/10/2015(UTC)
Posts: 359
Location: England, Cambridge
Originally Posted by: Big AL Go to Quoted Post
Has Santa come early or are you asking your mate to print it?



No early visit from Santa, but I suspect there will be one of these in my stocking, so I am starting to think about how one actually prints stuff. I imagine that will become clear if I ever read the instructions, though...

Oh for the hilarity of Christmas morning when I unwrap my coffee maker!

Cheers


Chris

Offline Big AL  
#16 Posted : 10 December 2020 22:07:16(UTC)
Big AL

United Kingdom   
Joined: 25/10/2020(UTC)
Posts: 55
Location: Scotland, Glasgow
Ah well, good coffee is one of the finer things in life. :D
Offline Big AL  
#17 Posted : 15 December 2020 18:04:02(UTC)
Big AL

United Kingdom   
Joined: 25/10/2020(UTC)
Posts: 55
Location: Scotland, Glasgow
thanks 4 users liked this useful post by Big AL
Offline Poor Skeleton  
#18 Posted : 20 February 2021 19:55:28(UTC)
Poor Skeleton

United Kingdom   
Joined: 09/10/2015(UTC)
Posts: 359
Location: England, Cambridge
Originally Posted by: Big AL Go to Quoted Post

In this photo you can see a split and an unsplit Rokuhan chassis.

I have marked the split line in red. I also removed the top cover on the Rokuhan chassis.


I’ve been engaged in a similar endeavour, but have approached extending the chassis somewhat differently - leaving the original chassis intact, but remounting the unpowered bogie on the extended chassis, which I made from 2mm plasticard.

8836B80B-56C9-454E-94FC-107BC2BEE062.jpeg

Hope this is of interest.

Chris
Offline Zme  
#19 Posted : 21 February 2021 00:46:17(UTC)
Zme

United States   
Joined: 02/10/2013(UTC)
Posts: 349
Location: West Texas
Hello Nice to see the different ideas and projects our members are into.

On this model, how is the motorized front attached to the non-motorized rear section? Is it glued, it would seem a great deal of stability would be provided by the shell. it may not be a serious issue.

Will this be added to the 3d printed shell displayed earlier. I expect either method would be a good solution. I would be nervous just making that first cut.

Let us know how things come out.

Best wishes

Dwight
Offline Big AL  
#20 Posted : 21 February 2021 09:41:35(UTC)
Big AL

United Kingdom   
Joined: 25/10/2020(UTC)
Posts: 55
Location: Scotland, Glasgow
Quote:
I’ve been engaged in a similar endeavour, but have approached extending the chassis somewhat differently - leaving the original chassis intact, but remounting the unpowered bogie on the extended chassis, which I made from 2mm plasticard.


Nice one Chris, I think yours is the better approach. Splitting makes it difficult to maintain structural viability. One note for anybody attempting this you need very thin and flexible wire. I used 28AWG silicone wrapped. Anything PVC wrapped will be stiff although the longer the extension the less important this will be.
Offline Poor Skeleton  
#21 Posted : 21 February 2021 15:53:33(UTC)
Poor Skeleton

United Kingdom   
Joined: 09/10/2015(UTC)
Posts: 359
Location: England, Cambridge
Originally Posted by: Zme Go to Quoted Post
On this model, how is the motorized front attached to the non-motorized rear section? Is it glued, it would seem a great deal of stability would be provided by the shell. it may not be a serious issue.


Hi Dwight! The additional section is glued using plastic weld to the original motor block and, as the chassis extension is made from 2mm plastic, it’s actually quite sturdy. With hindsight, I wish I had made the chassis extension in an inverted “T” shape rather than a “U” as this would have worked better with the pick-up wires of the trailing bogie/truck, but it seems to be OK as it is.

Originally Posted by: Zme Go to Quoted Post
Will this be added to the 3d printed shell displayed earlier. I expect either method would be a good solution. I would be nervous just making that first cut.



Yes, that’s the idea! I slapped some paint on a body shell last night to see what the finished thing would look like and here is the result. (Painting is not a skill I possess and it’s even worse than usual here, but you get the general idea!)

IMG_3186.JPG

I do need to work on the underframe, so that will be the next part of the project!

Hope things are alright where you are - I hear things are pretty grim in Texas at the moment. All the best


Chris
thanks 1 user liked this useful post by Poor Skeleton
Offline Poor Skeleton  
#22 Posted : 21 February 2021 16:16:58(UTC)
Poor Skeleton

United Kingdom   
Joined: 09/10/2015(UTC)
Posts: 359
Location: England, Cambridge
Originally Posted by: Big AL Go to Quoted Post
Nice one Chris, I think yours is the better approach. Splitting makes it difficult to maintain structural viability. One note for anybody attempting this you need very thin and flexible wire. I used 28AWG silicone wrapped. Anything PVC wrapped will be stiff although the longer the extension the less important this will be.


Thanks Al. Fortunately, I had some very fine wire that came with some phosphor bronze strip I bought for another project, so that’s what I used here.

How do you clean up your prints when they come off the machine? I’m finding I’m getting a lot of excess resin that I just don’t seem to be able to get rid off. This is probably not helped in this model as it tends to accumulate inside the roof – perhaps I should alter the internal profile or add a drain hole so the uncured resin can drain off? Also I seem to get a lot of tiny inclusions that I just can’t get rid of!

All the best


Chris
Offline Big AL  
#23 Posted : 21 February 2021 16:48:59(UTC)
Big AL

United Kingdom   
Joined: 25/10/2020(UTC)
Posts: 55
Location: Scotland, Glasgow
Originally Posted by: Poor Skeleton Go to Quoted Post

How do you clean up your prints when they come off the machine? I’m finding I’m getting a lot of excess resin that I just don’t seem to be able to get rid off. This is probably not helped in this model as it tends to accumulate inside the roof – perhaps I should alter the internal profile or add a drain hole so the uncured resin can drain off? Also I seem to get a lot of tiny inclusions that I just can’t get rid of!



Hi Chris, Your model is excellent. I usually have three washes. That is three jam jars containing 90% isopropanol. I just put the part in and shake. I also use an old electric toothbrush too on heavily incised detail or goop trap areas on my parts.

Cheers, Al.
Offline Poor Skeleton  
#24 Posted : 21 February 2021 19:40:43(UTC)
Poor Skeleton

United Kingdom   
Joined: 09/10/2015(UTC)
Posts: 359
Location: England, Cambridge
Originally Posted by: Big AL Go to Quoted Post
I usually have three washes. That is three jam jars containing 90% isopropanol. I just put the part in and shake. I also use an old electric toothbrush too on heavily incised detail or goop trap areas on my parts.


Thanks Al,

That's similar to my washing regime, the only difference being that the final one is in an ultrasonic cleaner (which doesn't seem to do much good, to be honest).

I have to say I’m not particularly vigorous with the washes, for fear of damaging the prints, but I do give them a good scrub. Perhaps I need to figure a way to hold the print in the container whilst I’m shaking.

I’ve noticed that the brushes I use tend to get clogged up with congealed resin – is this normal? I’m using 99% IPA – I presume this isn’t a problem?
As always, thanks very much for your valued advice.

All the best


Chris
Offline Zme  
#25 Posted : 21 February 2021 20:53:14(UTC)
Zme

United States   
Joined: 02/10/2013(UTC)
Posts: 349
Location: West Texas
Thank you Chris, we a fine here.

I think the paint job looks fairly well, maybe there is some bleed through. Still not bad.

Is this shell prototypical for England or Germany? I am not familiar with this type. Marklin makes very few if any rail locomotives and rolling stock for your country. At least now there are some options which weren’t previously available. Will you be able to find appropriate markings and decals for your model? Getting details like those could be a challenge.

Blushing Oh that is okay I reviewed your original posting of the shell and notice you mentioned it was from Mallorca. How interesting is that!

Take good care.

Dwight
Offline Poor Skeleton  
#26 Posted : 21 February 2021 21:33:35(UTC)
Poor Skeleton

United Kingdom   
Joined: 09/10/2015(UTC)
Posts: 359
Location: England, Cambridge
Originally Posted by: Zme Go to Quoted Post
Thank you Chris, we a fine here.


Good - glad to hear it!

Originally Posted by: Zme Go to Quoted Post
I think the paint job looks fairly well, maybe there is some bleed through. Still not bad.


It served its purpose, which was to get an impression of what the final model would look like. Having run it on the layout for a while, though, I have a bigger problem which is that it looks very oversized. I had to scale it up to fit on the Rokuhan chassis which I thought I'd get away with as the prototype is narrow gauge. I think I can print it a bit smaller and it will still fit (just) so I'm hopeful that will be satisfactory.

Originally Posted by: Zme Go to Quoted Post
Will you be able to find appropriate markings and decals for your model? Getting details like those could be a challenge.


I've had reasonable success printing my own waterslide decals, so that's what I'd propose to do on this model, too.

All the best


Chris
Offline Big AL  
#27 Posted : 21 February 2021 21:34:18(UTC)
Big AL

United Kingdom   
Joined: 25/10/2020(UTC)
Posts: 55
Location: Scotland, Glasgow


I have to say I’m not particularly vigorous with the washes, for fear of damaging the prints, but I do give them a good scrub. Perhaps I need to figure a way to hold the print in the container whilst I’m shaking.

I’ve noticed that the brushes I use tend to get clogged up with congealed resin – is this normal? I’m using 99% IPA – I presume this isn’t a problem?


I shake the **** out of them. Never had a breakage yet. I mean I am brutal with the shaking. If I do have to brush it is usually on the last wash, then I repeat one last wash again until I am happy. Any goop left on the brushes will go hard too.

One thought I usually leave my print in the printer on the build plate for a good while to drip. Very rarely do I immediately remove the print when it has just completed.

Users browsing this topic
OceanSpiders 2.0
Forum Jump  
You cannot post new topics in this forum.
You cannot reply to topics in this forum.
You cannot delete your posts in this forum.
You cannot edit your posts in this forum.
You cannot create polls in this forum.
You cannot vote in polls in this forum.

| Powered by YAF.NET | YAF.NET © 2003-2021, Yet Another Forum.NET
This page was generated in 0.784 seconds.