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Offline ktsolias  
#1 Posted : 27 March 2020 12:16:26(UTC)
ktsolias

Greece   
Joined: 01/05/2016(UTC)
Posts: 609
Location: Athens
Hi to all

The Märklin 3462 is a GM EMD F7 loco of the "ALASKA RAILROAD"

Produced in one time series in 1993 for the occasion of "70 years of the Alaska Railroad".

IMG_48099_resize.JPG

The loco has three parts: 2A units with engineer's cabs (Road No 1500 and 1502) and one B unit without engineer's cab (Road No 1503)
The units are permanently coupled.
There are 2 DCM motors (1 in each A unit) an electronic reversing unit in 1500.
4 axles are powered and there are 8 traction tires.
There is one pick-up shoe (7164) in the front bogie of the B unit.
The total length is 52 cm.

IMG_48097_resize.JPG

This conversion applies and in other 3 Unit F7 produced by Märklin the same period e.g.:3481, 3349, 3362

The project is: Digital conversion with sound.

The plan is to convert the loco with two 60941 5 pole motors and to drive them with a single 60946 Märklin Decoder.

LED lights.

The opening of the units is straightforward: just one screw for each unit underneath.
Put marks for the end A units who is front and who rear

IMG_48102_resize.JPG

Inside we can see the motors the reversing unit etc.

The A unit with the motor and the E-reversing unit

IMG_48103_resize.JPG

The front light

IMG_48101_resize.JPG

The B unit.

There is a contact PCB there like a main distribution board.

IMG_48109_resize.JPG

The other A unit with only the motor

IMG_48108_resize.JPG

Desolder everything

IMG_48121_resize.JPG

Check and clean all the parts and especially the motor bogies

IMG_48124_resize.JPG

The bogies with the new motors

IMG_48129_resize.JPG

The motor in place

IMG_48130_resize.JPG

I decided to put the decoder and the speaker into the B unit.
Next to the distribution PCB.
The two motors connected with the decoder in parallel.
The measurements of the consumption of the two motors with the CS3 reveals that the decoder output is enough for the two motors.
I put a 5mm WW LED soldered on the PCB with a 1kΩ resistor on AUX 1 for some light in the engine room B.
You can see the soldering of the various wires. Märklin color code

IMG_48132_resize.JPG

The B unit with the decoder speaker etc

IMG_48134_resize.JPG

For the front and rear lights I used 5mm WW LED's plunged in the original socket, with a dropping resistor 1kΩ in series on the negative for each LED.

IMG_48136_resize.JPG

Of course there are many lighting possibilities as there are 3 AUX still available plus plenty of space in the loco complex.

The final result:

IMG_48139_resize.JPG

The front 1500

IMG_48142_resize.JPG

The rear 1502

IMG_48144_resize.JPG

The middle 1503

IMG_48143_resize.JPG

And finally a short video with the Loco in motion



An interesting easy conversion who gives new life and dimension to these beautiful units.



And at the end something very sad:

This post is DEDICATED in the MEMORY of the OWNER of the loco who unfortunately has Pass Away on 24/3/2020 from the Covid-19......

He never put his hands on the converted loco.........



Best regard to all of you and good health to you and your beloved persons.
Stay in and play with Trains.

IS VERY SAFE

Costas
thanks 14 users liked this useful post by ktsolias
Offline JohnjeanB  
#2 Posted : 27 March 2020 12:35:05(UTC)
JohnjeanB

France   
Joined: 04/02/2011(UTC)
Posts: 3,083
Location: Paris, France
Hi Costas

Beautiful loco and very sad ending.

Thank you for this report. I have a blue Santa Fe triple unit (3662) that could be a candidate for conversion exactly like yours.
Thanks
Jean
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Offline bph  
#3 Posted : 27 March 2020 19:34:32(UTC)
bph

Norway   
Joined: 04/08/2018(UTC)
Posts: 985
Nice locomotive and a nice conversion job, but unfortunately with a sad ending.
Thanks for sharing.
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Offline jvuye  
#4 Posted : 27 March 2020 23:52:43(UTC)
jvuye

Belgium   
Joined: 01/03/2008(UTC)
Posts: 2,881
Location: South Western France
Outstanding work, as always Kostas!
When I converted mine, I added an orange LED on the roof of each cab (you'll need a small hole to be drilled) and programmed the function output to simulate a rotary beacon light.
Really easy to do, not expensive either Wink
Of course I was using an ESU Loksound at the time.
I don't know whether the Märklin decoder offers the same feature, but honestly it was definitely a crowd pleaser !
Just a thought
Sorry to read the sad end of the story, let's stick to our trains and other homebound hobbies.
Cheers
Jacques Vuye aka Dr.Eisenbahn
Once a vandal, learned to be better and had great success!
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Offline foumaro  
#5 Posted : 28 March 2020 05:55:19(UTC)
foumaro

Greece   
Joined: 08/12/2004(UTC)
Posts: 4,420
Location: Attiki Athens Greece
I have done exactly the same conversion to 3462 and 3662 F7 models,they are working perfect for a lot of years,great result,congratulations.ThumpUp
thanks 1 user liked this useful post by foumaro
Offline kiwiAlan  
#6 Posted : 28 March 2020 08:35:34(UTC)
kiwiAlan

United Kingdom   
Joined: 23/07/2014(UTC)
Posts: 8,082
Location: ENGLAND, Didcot
Originally Posted by: foumaro Go to Quoted Post
I have done exactly the same conversion to 3462 and 3662 F7 models,they are working perfect for a lot of years,great result,congratulations.ThumpUp


I also have a 3662 that I wish to convert. My plan is to use a Loksound decoder as it is possible to make it sould like multiple power units starting in sequence, which is ideal for an MU like this. I know people have done two power units, I don't know if three have been tried.
Offline foumaro  
#7 Posted : 28 March 2020 09:35:39(UTC)
foumaro

Greece   
Joined: 08/12/2004(UTC)
Posts: 4,420
Location: Attiki Athens Greece
Originally Posted by: kiwiAlan Go to Quoted Post
Originally Posted by: foumaro Go to Quoted Post
I have done exactly the same conversion to 3462 and 3662 F7 models,they are working perfect for a lot of years,great result,congratulations.ThumpUp


I also have a 3662 that I wish to convert. My plan is to use a Loksound decoder as it is possible to make it sould like multiple power units starting in sequence, which is ideal for an MU like this. I know people have done two power units, I don't know if three have been tried.


I have never tried something like that,I am rumning these units with a lot of wagons,more than 50 sometimes,the weight is high.Three motors and so much weight i think it is risky to blow up the decoder,just my opinion.
Offline jvuye  
#8 Posted : 28 March 2020 10:15:39(UTC)
jvuye

Belgium   
Joined: 01/03/2008(UTC)
Posts: 2,881
Location: South Western France
Originally Posted by: kiwiAlan Go to Quoted Post

I also have a 3662 that I wish to convert. My plan is to use a Loksound decoder as it is possible to make it sould like multiple power units starting in sequence, which is ideal for an MU like this. I know people have done two power units, I don't know if three have been tried.


Hi Alan
No problem of course with the "A" units, but you'll need to change the chassis of the "B" unit if you want three motors.
At one point one could buy the chassis and teh motors separately, but I have not verified that alternative.
You could always buy a cheap second hand F7 and refit if with your 3662 B unit body.
You will have to saw off a little part of the chassis , the "B" units are shorter.

To support your idea; I have a 4 units Union Pacific F7 latch up, with one sound decoder per unit, and indeed starting the motors in sequence is merely a matter of assigning a different function key to starting the sound of the respective decoders.
It is spectacular, with a very realistic "stereo" effect as the loco moves around the layout.
BUt of course, it's expensive too...
Stay safe

Jacques
Jacques Vuye aka Dr.Eisenbahn
Once a vandal, learned to be better and had great success!
Offline river6109  
#9 Posted : 28 March 2020 12:01:26(UTC)
river6109

Australia   
Joined: 22/01/2009(UTC)
Posts: 14,635
Location: On 1965 Märklin Boulevard just around from Roco Square
I used to own one of these, converted i but sold it later on., I would like to make you aware your bogies front & rear don't seem to line up especially both front axles showing less wheel than the back one.
I added ball bearings and the same as Jacques added a rotary light on top of the cab, I also separated the front light with 2 function output and the same goes for the road number.

excellent conversion

John
https://www.youtube.com/river6109
https://www.youtube.com/6109river
5 years in Destruction mode
50 years in Repairing mode
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Offline ktsolias  
#10 Posted : 28 March 2020 12:22:44(UTC)
ktsolias

Greece   
Joined: 01/05/2016(UTC)
Posts: 609
Location: Athens
Originally Posted by: river6109 Go to Quoted Post
I used to own one of these, converted i but sold it later on., I would like to make you aware your bogies front & rear don't seem to line up especially both front axles showing less wheel than the back one.
I added ball bearings and the same as Jacques added a rotary light on top of the cab, I also separated the front light with 2 function output and the same goes for the road number.

excellent conversion

John


Thank you John

You are correct there was a problem with the bogie frames because the coupler in the one side was wrong screwed on the bogie. I noticed that and corrected it later. I had done the videos and photos before....

Of course there are many possibilities to add functions (3 AUX available) or do many things with function mapping. Plus to much space to put in custom electronics.

But this was a conversion for somebody else so I had to be in limits mainly on the cost side.

Regards

Kostas
Offline kiwiAlan  
#11 Posted : 29 March 2020 01:14:47(UTC)
kiwiAlan

United Kingdom   
Joined: 23/07/2014(UTC)
Posts: 8,082
Location: ENGLAND, Didcot
Originally Posted by: jvuye Go to Quoted Post
Originally Posted by: kiwiAlan Go to Quoted Post

I also have a 3662 that I wish to convert. My plan is to use a Loksound decoder as it is possible to make it sould like multiple power units starting in sequence, which is ideal for an MU like this. I know people have done two power units, I don't know if three have been tried.


Hi Alan
No problem of course with the "A" units, but you'll need to change the chassis of the "B" unit if you want three motors.
At one point one could buy the chassis and teh motors separately, but I have not verified that alternative.
...
Jacques


Ah, no confusion reigns ... Blink

I am talking about motor sounds, not actual motors on the bogies. The Loksound decoders have a facility whereby it is possible to have multiple motor sounds, ideal for locos which had multiple engines that would be started in sequence. I would have thought that an ABA set would have the motors start in sequence rather than all simultaneously. I am just not sure how this will sound coming out of one speaker.

In retrospect I believe I have the model number wrong, mine is the GM prototype loco (the first ABA unit Marklin made) which is I think 3649.

Offline HerrDoktorBD  
#12 Posted : 08 August 2020 19:36:19(UTC)
HerrDoktorBD

United States   
Joined: 10/07/2019(UTC)
Posts: 25
I'm about to embark in this conversion, waiting for decoder and motors. In the meantime, the set came with a couple of yellow foam pieces between the units (see pic). I got the foam out but there's residue left over. Not wanting to damage the paint I decided to consult this fine forum for advice. What solvent would be best to get the residue off the bodies? Alcohol, acetone, goo-gone?

Thanks in advance for your help.

Regards, Tony

IMG_6931.jpeg
Offline kiwiAlan  
#13 Posted : 09 August 2020 00:51:40(UTC)
kiwiAlan

United Kingdom   
Joined: 23/07/2014(UTC)
Posts: 8,082
Location: ENGLAND, Didcot
Originally Posted by: HerrDoktorBD Go to Quoted Post
I'm about to embark in this conversion, waiting for decoder and motors. In the meantime, the set came with a couple of yellow foam pieces between the units (see pic). I got the foam out but there's residue left over. Not wanting to damage the paint I decided to consult this fine forum for advice. What solvent would be best to get the residue off the bodies? Alcohol, acetone, goo-gone?

Thanks in advance for your help.

Regards, Tony

IMG_6931.jpeg


I would use warm soapy water after removing the bodies from the chassis. Use an old toothbrush to scrub the debris off.

If you use any of the items you mention then it is likely you will damage the paint.
thanks 1 user liked this useful post by kiwiAlan
Offline HerrDoktorBD  
#14 Posted : 09 August 2020 01:11:34(UTC)
HerrDoktorBD

United States   
Joined: 10/07/2019(UTC)
Posts: 25
Aha! The old warm water and toothbrush ploy, eh?

Thank you, Alan. That worked.
Offline HerrDoktorBD  
#15 Posted : 18 August 2020 15:07:20(UTC)
HerrDoktorBD

United States   
Joined: 10/07/2019(UTC)
Posts: 25
Digital conversion successful.IMG_7021.jpeg IMG_7026.mov (10,979kb) downloaded 28 time(s).
thanks 2 users liked this useful post by HerrDoktorBD
Offline Alsterstreek  
#16 Posted : 18 August 2020 16:39:52(UTC)
Alsterstreek

Germany   
Joined: 16/11/2011(UTC)
Posts: 5,666
Location: Hybrid Home
Hi,

Is the decoder resting on the metal chassis? If so, that would be quite risky...
Offline HerrDoktorBD  
#17 Posted : 18 August 2020 16:50:41(UTC)
HerrDoktorBD

United States   
Joined: 10/07/2019(UTC)
Posts: 25
The decoder motherboard is in its plastic holder.


Originally Posted by: Alsterstreek Go to Quoted Post
Hi,

Is the decoder resting on the metal chassis? If so, that would be quite risky...
thanks 1 user liked this useful post by HerrDoktorBD
Offline europromo  
#18 Posted : 16 September 2021 21:27:10(UTC)
europromo

United States   
Joined: 12/08/2021(UTC)
Posts: 32
Location: Massillon, OH
Just bought the set with the 10 freight cars. Now I’m thinking should I do convert to digital or have a separate analog circuit on my layout? That way I could run my TEE w/o conversion.
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